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elliott

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About elliott

  • Birthday 01/07/1987

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    Kannapolis,NC

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  1. The one that came with the console was 10V AC, not sure about amperage, I don't have the original. An NES power supply works great. Any AC or DC power supply over 500ma, between 9-12v should work just fine, being that the console is meant to take AC, the polarity if you are using a DC power supply isn't an issue. I've run mine from NES, SMS/Genesis 1 and Jaguar power supplies.
  2. Internally, it isn't too much different from a 4 switch, I never modded mine, but I did repair it. Any mod that works on the 4 switch should work just fine on the SVAII, I think most of the resistors are in the same basic place.
  3. I'm not mad, I just don't like misinformation being spread, when someone digs this thread up I want them to have the right information for what they are doing. I know you were only trying to help, but giving wrong information is not helpful. They won't hurt anything with your information, but I want them to know that a good DC adapter will work fine with no ill effects on a properly working system, DC adapters are more common, using an adapter from a system they already have is easier than hunting down another one. I know what makes these systems tick, I know how to diagnose and repair them, I know why the SVAII/2800 can accept AC when every other 2600 uses DC and would fry with AC, I know why DC will work with it also, I know why tip polarity doesn't matter with DC on an SVAII/2800 but does on every 2600. I can also explain all of this, and have explained a good portion of it in this thread. You haven't shown that you know anything outside of your personal experience with one system and 2 adapters, which doesn't mean much because the chances your system or adapter is flawed is pretty good because it doesn't behave as it should. If I did happen to be wrong, I would gladly admit it, but you haven't shown me anything that would indicate that I was wrong outside of the personal experience mentioned earlier.
  4. You don't, I'm just saying it isn't as picky as you say it is and if it doesn't work right on DC, you have other problems, either in the system or the adapter you used. You still haven't said why it needs AC, I've said many times why it doesn't matter whether it gets AC or DC, the rectifier bridge, I apparently know what I'm talking about. If you still think I don't know what I'm talking about, I'll crack mine open again, show you the rectifier bridge and show that no matter what goes into it, AC or DC, that properly polarized DC comes out of it and goes into the 7805 voltage regulator and ~5 volts of pure DC comes out of the 7805 and goes to the important parts that make the system actually work. For the function of the system, the voltage coming out of that regulator is all that matters, the system never really sees that AC you're putting into it, it disappears after the first 4 diodes on the board after the power socket. Considering it was months ago, and I suggested probably the most common and easy to find adapters months ago, he probably has one that works by now.
  5. You either had something wrong with your system or the DC adapter you used. A normally working system will handle anything AC or DC around 9 volts(I've personally used anything between 7 and 12 volts), I must have used 6 or 7 different adapters with mine, none had any negative effect on the system's function. It is about as picky about power as an NES is, I have used DC adapters with my NES consoles too, the original NES power supply is AC too, it is a great match for the original SVAII adapter if you are set on using AC.
  6. I used a Jaguar power supply for over 6 months on mine, no ill effects what so ever. If you were having problems, you may have had a faulty or improper power supply, like wrong voltage or not enough amperage. Everything important inside the system is seeing 5v of DC current anyway, no matter what the power supply is. It is just a matter of whether it is rectified in the adapter before entering the system, or if it is rectified in the system's own diode array. Rectifying it twice doesn't hurt anything. A normal Atari doesn't have this rectifier bridge, so it requires DC coming from the adapter, AC will fry a normal Atari. If you feel I am wrong, get out your multimeter, prove to me it needs AC current. Show me somewhere on the board, after the 4 diode rectifier bridge that shows AC voltage. For the longest time after I got mine, I didn't even know the original adapter was AC, I always used DC. Someone mentioned using an NES power brick, which is AC, I called them out on it, but I did some investigating of my own and found the rectifier bridge. If you really don't believe me, I'll get out my multimeter and camera, I'll show you that no matter what goes into mine, 9 volts of AC or DC, 5 volts of pure DC still comes out of the 7805 voltage regulator, which is all that matters. I've repaired quite a few Atari's, I have a good idea of what makes them tick, the SVA II is a little odd, but it is essentially a 4 switch with some added circuitry for the fancy LED's and buttons. It has the exact same needs as a 4 switch, 5 volts of DC current.
  7. The obvious thing is to make sure you have ~9 volts going into the 7805 voltage regulator and 5 volts coming out. That is a very common cause of a totally unresponsive system, either a bad jack not letting power in, or a bad voltage regulator not letting power out.
  8. A Sears Video Arcade II will run fine on AC or DC, it makes absolutely no difference, there is no component inside that actually requires AC. The first thing after the socket on the circuit is a rectifier bridge, this converts AC to DC and DC will pass through one just fine with no ill effects, it even has the nice effect of correcting polarity for you, tip positive and tip negative doesn't matter when using DC on a SVAII.
  9. I'm one of those people, Windows makes my head hurt and I feel uncomfortable without a package manager and good command line. I have Vista as a dual boot on one of my laptops. My thinking was, it came on there, it should run nice...I was very, very wrong. I assumed it was because of the 512MB of RAM it came with, wrong again, 2GB now and it is still un-livable. Windows Update is my arch nemesis, I don't want to wait 20 minutes for it to install stuff before I shut down the computer, then for it to take another half hour to configure the updates when I start it again. I found that it also makes the laptop run significantly hotter, probably 15-degrees hotter.
  10. I know the sound well, happened to me in a wireless computer mouse about a year ago. Seemed like a freak occurrence, I cleaned it up and have been using it since, I assume it was just a bad battery. Having it happen twice, on 2 separate devices is pretty strange though.
  11. I found my Sears Video Arcade II to be very close to a 4 switch, stuff may be moved, but if you trace the circuit from the TIA pin out, it should be the same.
  12. An NES power brick works great, so does the one for a Jaguar. I think the one for the SMS and Genesis 1 will work too. Just about anything AC or DC, close to 9 volts with the right plug will work, polarity doesn't matter. Before anyone says it: I am fully aware that the NES power brick is AC, the SVA II and 2800 were designed for AC, they have the rectifier bridge to convert it to DC inside. I have one and have run it problem free for months on an NES power brick.
  13. I'm probably wrong, but I thought the Pause button emulated the TV Type switch on a 7800.
  14. I guess I'm not that picky, I have done it that way on 6 consoles so far and looks perfect to me, you have done way more consoles than I have so I'll take your word for it.
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