mathflicks2901
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Hello everyone, One of my light sixers has been suffering from awful static and strange noises when I turn it on. The voltage regulator, channel select switch, and power switch have been repaired/replaced, yet it still doesn't work. I was thinking that it may be improper tuning on the rf modulator. Unfortunately, all of my allen wrenches cannot fit the hole in the modulator (either they are too small or too big). Is there any specific size or brand I should use? Maybe I should replace the entire rf modulator instead? Thank you for responding, Matt S.
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Hello everyone, I thought I should show my small collection, since I am fairly new to this website. As of today, I have four Atari 2600's manufactured under Atari itself (no Sears products, except for the Tele-games game center), the original famicom and super famicom, the original SNES, an original NES, and four old computers (Macintosh SE, Commodore VIC-20, and an Apple IIE). It seems that I have more hardware than software, which is a shame.
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Thank you very much, DrVenkman! I will try that for sure.
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Hello everyone, It has been quite a while since I have posted on this forum, and I am glad to be back. My collection of vintage computers, consoles, and other electronics has increased significantly. With this, I purchased an official Sunnyvale heavy sixer with two paddles and CX-10 joysticks in addition to my other defective heavy sixer. The most recent one I got with the included paddles and joysticks at first has no snowy picture, no problems with peripherals working, and perfect sound. However, with that being said, there is a small problem of some colors randomly changing hues on different games (not all of them, as far as I can tell). Also, when I first received it, the games would start normally, but after a while the screen became a fuzzy grey. It hasn't happened recently, but it worries me that something is wrong inside the Atari. I read up on other posts that this can happen as a result of a faulty av cable, a faulty capacitor, or the power regulator failing. Is it possible that either of them are nonfunctional, if not all? If I need to repair a part of the console, how much would it cost and what materials would I need to use? Thank you for replying, Matt S.
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No, it's alright. Thank you for telling me about the manuals and the different versions. I'll have to take a look at them. Thanks.
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Sorry, it was my fault. I wasn't thinking right. I am kinda new to this website and Atari collecting. Sorry about that.
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Interesting. But I notice that the back of the switchboard has "Rev. 1" and "C012173" labeled. Do those mean it was once a true heavy sixer, and they simply swapped parts? Perhaps an earlier version? I notice that most heavy sixers and light sixers do not have the same labels, namely "Rev. 1".
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Hello nick3092! Concerning the console, I will display images of it below.
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Hello everyone! After my other post I made about a year or two ago, I have been taking apart and reassembling my Heavy Sixer. I have been inspecting the switch board and motherboard, and noticed something very strange. The logic board itself (the board inside the metal RF case) has a drastically different layout than most heavy sixers. It has a more simple, greenish color than other boards, and looks like the one I will show below (picture from a different atariage user). From what he said, the serial number sticker on the back of the console was missing, just like mine. In addition, there are two stickers on the metal casing inside the console, unlike his, however. I will attach a picture of this as well. Perhaps this is a reconditioned unit? There is no sticker on the back labeled "factory reconditioned". I am very confused. Also, there is a label on the back that reads: "REV 1" and "c012173". What do these mean?
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Actually, after more testing, I noticed that by inserting a tiny screwdriver into the rf modulator, the picture started changing. It didn't get to a normal visual, but there was something interfering with the picture while I was fiddling with the rf modulator.
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I am somewhat comfortable doing so, although I might need help from one of my family members to desolder the regulator, as I am not very skilled at desoldering and soldering parts. He has a soldering gun and some thermal paste, and he has more experience doing so. In addition, I am also nervous, considering his soldering gun is nearly 50 years old.
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i'm not sure where I can find such a regulator. Maybe on ebay?
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The highest value for the input was around 10 to 12 v. As for the output, the highest value was around 4.2 v. Concerning the power supply, I tested it with my six-switch unit, and it is in proper working order.
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Ok, so I tested it out, and the meter kept fluctuating, but never reached 5v or 12v. It's very odd. What does this mean?
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Thanks, sdamon. I will try to test it tonight. If not, then tomorrow.
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