Geoff78

Hello. Id like to order a couple if still available. I sent a PM the other day but Im unsure if this was received or not. Cheers

Cheers, I'll look for something similar then. We aren't getting much sunlight at the moment here. I'm using the salon 40 vol (12%) hair bleach cream. Its worked quite well so far an a heavily yellowed 800XL case in the overcast daylight. I can only imagine that a lamp like yours would accelerate the process.

Hello Polbit. What wavelength are the UV strips? I might give this a go myself. Cheers.

Well I take my criticism of the video cable back completely and pin the blame firmly on my power supply - Oops! Tested the 800 using the original power supply and the video is flawless. https://youtu.be/6Oo9Cwf66mA Can anyone recommend a better power supply that I can easily get in the UK? The one I bought was just a cheap 5v SM 2A jobby, probably something similar to an old mobile phone charger. Has anyone opened the original psu and restored it successfully?

Hello there, Not sure this'll be of any use to you but here is a picture of the RAM in my BAD 800XL All mT 433. Not sure how many are bad yet. Geoff.

I made my own power supply using a switched mode power supply and soldered a new DIN plug on. I still have a couple of old original power supplies, both are still working fine (for now that is). I could give one of the old power supplies a try to rule out the new power supply perhaps. I'll check the output first mind you. According to the retro gaming cables site, the individual cables are fully screened. It's just strange how pulling the audio cables makes it worse, makes me think that this cable is not as well made as it should be. Geoff.

After fixing my 1050, thank you all for that, my attention has been turned to the video output of my computer. I've tried both RF and Composite and in my opinion, the RF is far better. The reason being is that there are rising horizontal lines when using the composite out and it looks terrible. Unfortunately I don't have a CRT to try it on so I have tested it on two separate LCD TV's, Samsung and Toshiba. I have also tried my second 800XL and the same problem exists. Is this normal when using a modern TV set? I still would have expected the Composite to look a bit better than the RF. I bought the Comp cable from here https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/atari-8bit-800xl-65xe-130xe-800xlf-1400xl-1450xld-1200xl-composite-video-av-tv-lead-cable?search=Atari . Could it be the cable at fault? It gets much worse when the audio cables are disconnected. Here are the YouTube links to my videos too. RF https://youtu.be/08b_Z6Gr83A Comp https://youtu.be/22BQhdPblGM Cheers.

Yes, I saw that too so disconnected R25 in an attempt to isolate U22-U24. I was quite relieved when it made no difference then started working back over, that's when I found C43 the little blighter. I'll keep a look out for a spare adapter or one of a similar rating that I could put to use. I could always make one if I get bored. Thanks again for all the help. Geoff.

Hello everyone, It's back to life at last. It was C43, the only electrolytic I didn't check as I thought it was part of the 5 volt side (which was working)! Anyway, it reads fine and loads up all the games nicely so thank you all for the advice. I just need a spare power brick now as I only have one. I guess they are hard to come by unless you buy one with a disk drive. Cheers.

To be honest, I've got everything unplugged. I have the board sat on my bench out of its case so I can work on it more easily. The service manual suggests U5 and VR2 - troubleshoot and replace defective components. Has anyone ever had trouble with either of these two components? I don't fancy my chances de-soldering U5. VR2 looks tricky enough Cheers.

So far I have taken the following components out of the circuit : C65 C70 Q4 Q6 Still no 12V at TP 14. Starting to worry now.

As suggested, disconnected the output of Q8 from the rest of the circuit and sure enough - nice smooth 12 volts DC.

Thanks Guus, Bit more fault finding required then. I'll try removing the output leg on Q8 and go from there. It'd be a shame to give up on it now. Cheers.

Thanks for all the replies. Just changed the two big electrolytics C68 and C71 and still the same voltages. Q8 gets hot enough to fry an egg on. There is continuity between tp14 and the output of Q8, however, there is also continuity between tp14 and the ground of Q8. Guess this indicates that Q8 has shorted, or my handy work is bad. This is the fourth 7812 I've put in and each time showing the same faults. I've double checked my soldering with a lamp and magnifying glass and I cant see any bridged joints. Could it be the 7812's I've bought? Cheers.

Hello everyone. just wondering if someone could offer a bit of advice about the internal 12 volt dc side. I've got this drive which has perfect stable 5 volt dc, power led illuminates etc. The 12 vdc is another story with only 0.70v at TP14 and 18.36v coming from the doubler. I replaced Q8, tested voltages again which were the same. I then replaced CR15 &CR16 and still no change. Does anyone have any ideas? The only thing I've not changed is C71 and C68, the big electrolytics but I have ordered some more just in case one or both are bad. Cheers.