Passive Matrix

Is anybody is familiar with the Lynx 2 power jack socket. This unit appears to have a missing pad, and I'm only getting continuity between the front and back through the middle hole. Would running a wire from one leg of the power jack to the copper coil on the opposite side be sufficient? Cheers

I wonder if a similar technique could be used to create VGA ports for other consoles of the time like the Sega Master System.

I have repaired faulty units exhibiting this problem before. Try holding a powerful flashlight on the screen. With a bright light illuminating the LCD from the front you will be able to see a game running. As the LCD is still functional and its just the fluorescent tube that is not working a LED backlight mod will fix your problem. You can remove all the high voltage components associated with the fluorescent tube so you wont have to worry about it shorting again, also you will also have the added benefit of doubling battery life.

Ah I suspected a similar plug with the same sized holes would do the job, my problem is I am a bit of a perfectionist I wonder if 3D printing is accurate enough to make exact copies? Looking closer I noticed the letters JAE on the plug. A quick google takes me to Japan Aviation Electronics Industry, Ltd. I wonder if I am on the right track? Perhaps I should send them an email?

Yes good quality replacements are already available, but Best Electronics requires a minimum $20 USD purchase and international shipping is not cheap either. I wanted to make up something cheap for those who are not confident with a soldering iron.

So I was thinking about putting together a replica of the Lynx II speaker unit using modern parts. New speakers of the right size and impedance are readily available but I have run into a problem identifying the 2-pin female connector. Does anybody know if these connectors are still manufactured today or if equivalent compatible parts are available? I haven't been able to locate a part number but I would think it would be an 'off the shelf' product seeing as how Atari was looking to minimize manufacturing costs at the time. Would a connector that was the same size suffice? I assume it is not essential for it to 'lock' into place and that as long as it was firmly connected the friction would hold it together. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Cheers

Ah clearly this was my problem! Thanks very much, you have a very keen eye

Thanks I will try that. Where is that part located on the motherboard? Is it a part still in production or will I have to get it from an old Lynx II?

So this didn't occur with your other installs? I just tried my new screen and motherboard in 2 different Lynx cases and it is doing the same thing so I don't think it is an issue with the backlight button anymore. One click on the backlight button is registering as 2 clicks so I can only seem to get 2 modes: Lynx screen on with no scanlines and VGA monitor on with scanlines. Here is a picture of what I've done so far. Does everything look okay to you?

I've just about finished my installation now but I've encountered a strange issue. I'm unable to to switch between all the display modes properly. I can switch between the Lynx screen and my VGA monitor but it will not display the retro mode with scanlines on either screen. I noticed that when I press and hold the backlight button on the Lynx it will show scanlines but as soon as a release pressure on the button it presumably switches to the next mode and I am unable to see them. Anybody encountered this issue before? I have a feeling that the mod is working perfectly and it's my Lynx that has a dodgy button or something.

Just attempting my first Lynx II install and I noticed when the new screen is screwed in place a little bit of the silver LCD housing is exposed on the left. Is there any way to adjust this so it doesn't show?

I'd replace all the common failure points of the power circuit. If that doesn't work it could be something to do with the power button. I got my unit to power up again by cleaning the contacts under the power button with a bit of alcohol.

So I managed to fix this problem with minimal effort. Somebody had already been inside this unit and had soldered the battery compartment to the motherboard incorrectly. The positive wire was connected to the pad intended for ground and vise versa. I just had to reverse the wires and the Lynx powered up from batteries just fine. There was definitely a short going on before I fixed it because whenever I put fresh batteries inside it they got noticeably warm. Stuff listed as junk on eBay can often be fixed with the smallest adjustments.

Hmm maybe, but the rainbow effect extends beyond the LCD over the bezel. It does most resemble petrol on a wet road so I'm thinking its some sort of chemical reaction to the adhesive. Has anybody else noticed this with their Lynx II consoles?

Just at certain angles. When looking directly into the screen it is not visible. Also it is much more pronounced when reflecting light from a polarized source, like from my PC monitor for example.