Ingramokhll

The great news.....just got a CX-10 with Sears Hex disc for only $15!!! The horrible news....Hex disc is glued to the joystick. If anyone has suggestions for a safe removal I'm listening.

If you grease the rails be careful not to use petroleum based grease because over time it deteriorates plastic. You'll want a good silicone grease. I use fishing reel grease because you can find it easily in any sporting goods store.

Hello all, sorry if this has been covered before. I recently acquired a Heavy Sixer complete with 2 CX-10s. They have the Santo 88 boards and all other CX-10 internals, less recessed screws, and no "TOP" on the base......all the signs of a legit CX-10, but they also have the locking ring and boot of the CX-40. It all looks factory and not hacked together, and after a little cleaning and adjusting they work great. Is this a mod or some type of variant? Thanks for the help!

Hello everyone. I recently bought a light sixer on ebay and it arrived with a damaged game select switch. The guy gave me a rebate so I have $30 total in it now. I ordered a replacement switch, only to discover that my unit had the nice chrome switches instead of the aluminum. I was able to swap them out, so no big deal. Then I noticed something really odd. The unit had remnants of a serial number sticker, but had another sticker over that one from Sunnyvale. It also has the red service sticker, but it appeared glued on. The chrome switches are a good indication that this thing was refurbished at Sunnyvale, so here's the question: Would Atari have issued a new serial number for a refurbishment or was this someone's attempt at a counterfeit?

I recently bought an Adam expansion module, and of course the data drive wasn't working. I took it apart for repair and found that the sensor was torn to shreds. I haven't seen any for sale, so I thought I'd try my hand at making one. In my first attempt I made a round disc from thin plastic, used a razor to scratch the surface in a pattern similar to the original and glued it to the aluminum shaft. This was a total failure. In attempt 2 I made another disc, but used a sharpie to draw thin lines like the original sensor had. This one didn't function properly, BUT when I manually spun the sensor it did cause the drive to respond. It made the drive motors spin in opposite directions though, effectively locking up the drive. I'm thinking of attempting a 3rd sensor using tiny pieces of wire glued to the disc in case the sensor uses induction rather than optics, or maybe both....but the moral of the story is that I believe its possible to create new sensors for all those dead data drives setting around!!!

Hello everyone! I'm brand new to the Coleco scene, and unfortunately discovered a new way to totally jumble the graphics on a near mint machine. I connected my Adam module to test it and noticed the glitch soon after. I assumed it was the power supply but it turns out that one of the brass rivets in the expansion port broke loose and shorted something out. I'm assuming the VRAM is shot, so I've already ordered the 5V upgrade, but I also got a good deal on a Canadian system with lots of accessories. My plan is to put the Canadian motherboard in the really nice case of the bricked console if the boards are the same (just for a nice collector piece) then mod the not-so-nice Canadian one. Anyway, I just wanted to give everyone a heads-up to watch for those loose rivets. I've also been experimenting with Adam data drive repairs that I'll detail in another thread if anyone is interested. Thanks for adding me to the community!!!