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As3rox

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  1. This is the new lcd that is compatible with mcWill, LCD Screen Display Panel For 3.5" Satlink WS-6906 WS 6906 satellite Finder Meter Got mine on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222152460051
  2. Ah no lol wire on the left is cut off, just used it to solder along the trace, I have cut off the excess now. But trying tpr won’t hurt so I’m going to try that when I get back
  3. If it’s a mcWill I got a new compatible lcd, I’ll try and hunt down where I got it from or when I’m in the lynx later get a model number for you,
  4. I have checked for shorts and I have none, no I have not used tpr I did not think to try, I’m not shore what pic you are referring to but I can definitely say I don’t have 2 wires going anywhere, my mate is bringing me an oscilloscope so I can check data lines. Lol but I was a teenager the last time I used one so may take me a bit to get my head round it. I’m going to put these components that I took off on the other lynx today and see if the screen works in that. Other thing I thought of but don’t think mcWill would help with this one is that the firmware my be bad, it’s old to 2015 I also don’t know if older iteration used different solder points. thaks for answers though keeps me moving forward with it. jay
  5. Ok swapped mcWill to my second lynx, it’s even worse (check pics) I have also included the two places I had to repair the mcWill board. First I had to go from far left via and solder from there along the trace, second repair was pad 3, I had to turn the board over and go from the via along the trace toward the chip leg. Iv checked these repairs and current going where it should be. I have also added photos of where I soldered to the lynx mobo just for more eyes. Iv checked voltages and the stable at 4.8 volts. I don’t believe this has had a cap replacement or power zenor upgrade but I have them. Other than cap replacement etc I don’t know what else to try, I am going to put components from this second lynx onto the first and try the lcd from that in there too, hopefully mcWill will see this as he gave great input last year. But if anyone has any suggestions etc I’d be grateful. Also is there a possibility that this mcWill is for lynx 1?? Or is it for both. As my lynx 1 is 100% working with cap replacement. Oh sound is fine on both lynxs Thanks in advance jay
  6. Neah it going into an identical lynx but thanks for the heads up as I have a lynx 1 to, Iv found a Susie chip to so can try that to also if it’s not that won’t hurt to have a spare ? ill post my success or failure once I get it done.
  7. Ok I think I’m done with this lynx, I’m suspecting Susie is gone, I will try a re-flow but most posts I see that people have done this don’t report any success. I really don’t want to take another lynx to the grave yard so will wait till I can get hold of a Susie chip and try and keep it alive, I have another lynx 2 that needs a new lcd so might as well try this mcWill in there and hopefully it’s not that that’s gone. Thanks to everyone that replied to my post and gave information. I will post back if mcWill lcd works in the other lynx or not so fingers crossed. regards j
  8. i decided to check over contact between solder pad on mcWill to the and the xlinks chips and there was no continuity past the via on D0, I have scraped back the mask on the trace by the xlinks chip, but still getting missing wrong data. Checked for shorts on all other connections and have none. So I’m completely stumped I’ll take some photos when I get back later but this lynx has now had complete cap replacement, and power update done. makara I’ll post some photos when I get back later.
  9. Well finally after a year I got the time to take a second look at my lynx, I have checked D0 and D3 for shorts and there is none. Iv also swapped them to no avail. I do have another lynx 2 but a bit apprehensive of pulling it apart to see if it is the lynx or not. I also had a compatible lcd which I tried with the same result. All caps have been done again to. if anyone has any more ideas they would be greatly received as I hate having to relegate old consoles to my grave yard. regards j
  10. Sorry to bump such an old post but I have recently had to repair my 3do at first I bought a laser for the original drive but that did not work so went down the replacement route I got an apple 300 cd rom model cr-503c only things I needed to do was change the logic board over and the stepper motor over as the plug to the motor was different. Iv herd the 503k is a direct replacement but couldn’t find one. If you want to try the laser replacement the model your after is sf-92.5 be aware on some you do have to modify the power cable so low heat soldering iron is a must. Best place I found these were in AliExpress but be aware prices ore on the increase. Anyway hope this info helped someone. j
  11. Thank you I will check later when I get home. Regards J
  12. lol I didn't want to bother him but will give it a shot thank you for you help and input
  13. Well finally got round to recapping and reinstalling mcwill with better wire, still no change have a lynx 1 but not keen on testing the mcwill screen in there. so I think im going to have to call it dead
  14. Iv ordered recap kit hopefully I'll get it tomorrow, Iv have just shortened wires and removed vga. I have also ordered some ribbon cable as all these wires flopping around is doing my head in. Would bad caps stop some of the colour channels?? I have had a good look at it loos like it has been recapped but because of the state of all these wires I don't think I can trust if a: the right caps have been used and b: the solder joints are good.
  15. Hi I hope someone maybe able to help, I purchased a lynx2 at a carboot and really don't think the chap really knew what he had, anyway it had a mcwill LCD in it works sort of but displays lines from top to bottom and colour is off, I'm thinking it was done without doing the caps I have completely unsoldered the screen and had to shorten the wires as I could install two screens with the amount that was used, it's still the same. Iv checked the power and it's a steady 4.8 volts i have tried a variety of games and all display these lines, also pressing the backlight button just makes the screen go blank and not change the screen mode, I have disabled vga and connected a wire from menu to gnd. If anyone has seen this before any information on how to fix it if I can would be greatly appreciated J
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