Jump to content

Surveyor

New Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Surveyor's Achievements

Space Invader

Space Invader (2/9)

2

Reputation

  1. I tested continuity from one side of the keyboard pcb to the other using like numbered pins near each connector with no continuity issues. Doesn't look like a bad solder job either, so I cleaned the solder joints with IPA along with using contact cleaner in the connector itself. No dice. I'm suspecting that the connector itself on the keyboard is bad in some way. I'm looking at this in a lazy-kind of way, but I'm wondering if an s-video cable splitter would work? I can plug it up like this: 1. One end of the keyboard cord into the right side keyboard connector then the other end into the splitter. 2. Mouse directly into the splitter. 3. Splitter into the rear of the computer Functionally, this looks right. Electrically, I have no clue.
  2. As a bit of a follow-up to this, the keyboard appears to be working using the RIGHT side connector direct to the rear of the computer. When the mouse is connected to the LEFT side, no movement. My next guess, is that the left-side connector has possibly come loose from the keyboard pcb in some way to make that side only non-operative. I unscrewed the keyboard to see what I could see, but it looks like I'll need to pull the keys to get at the pcb. Week-end project, I guess...Thanks!
  3. Hi! I've recently purchased an Apple IIgs to add to my IIc and am having a keyboard issue. Basically it appears to be complete dead. I can plug the mouse direct into the rear of the IIgs and that seems to work fine as I can get the cursor moving, however, when I plug the mouse into the keyboard, and then the keyboard into the back, nothing seems to work. In my brilliance, I tried an S-video cable as it appeared to have the same connector and that didn't work either. As I'm completely new to this system, I'm not completely sure of any specific keyboard combinations, etc. to try. Heck, I'm no even sure if there an on/off switch I'm missing... I'm fairly handy with my soldering iron and multimeter and was hazarding cracking it open to see if I can see anything out of the ordinary. Any suggestions to try or something to look for? Thanks in advance!
  4. Hi! Was wondering if the following is a feasible plan. I have a Retrotink 5x Pro with the additional SCART input. Would it be possible to connect my 1040 STF (NTSC) to the Retrotink via a cable with a 13-pin connector on one end and a SCART connector on the other? Not sure if that animal exists, but I think I saw one for sale...Wasn't sure if there was a 13-pin to composite or 13-pin to rgb cable or not, but thought to possible go that route as well. I'm trying to verify that the Retrotink will know what to do with the signal right now. Hopefully it's smooth sailing from there as the Retrotink's output is HDMI. A second question would be would the audio be carried via the cable? I have the hi-res monochrome monitor which works fine, but wanted to try a color solution. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  5. I've recently come into possession of an Atari 1040 STF computer with the ATARI monochrome monitor. I'm in the process of swapping out the dead floppy drive for a Gotek and researching some up-to-date mouse solutions. I do have the original mouse, but it's been a chore using it. My specific question revolves around video solutions for this system. I recently purchased a RGB to HDMI Flickerfixer Scandoubler for my Amiga 500 and was wondering is such a solution exists for the 1040 STF? Monochrome is crisp and clear, but wanted a color option as well. It's a NTSC system, so I would think some solution should work with an existing computer monitor or newer TV set if the cabling was proper, with maybe some piece of hardware between? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  6. I appreciate all of the great info. After some thought, I've decided to go with a HDMI Flickerfixer ScanDoubler solution. I think I may as well get the SCART cable for my retrotink as well for a back-up as it seems to be fairly inexpensive. Once again, thanks for all of the well thought-out info!
  7. I'm in the USA and I've just come into possession of a PAL Amiga 500. Nice computer with a Gotek, newer mouse solution, etc. I understand this is a thread-worn topic, but I'm frankly stumped as to a modern video solution. I currently own a NTSC Amiga 1080 monitor (not a 1084 or 1084S) that has faithfully served my Commodore 128 and others for years. My understanding from poring over old posts here and otherwise, it that the PAL video signal won't sync with the 1080. I tried the mono output as that was the only cord I had at the time and confirmed the Amiga is working fine as I was able to stop the rolling of the picture signal (very) briefly using the vertical hold knob on the front panel. I don't have the proper video cord to go from the Amiga via RGB into the monitor, but was hesitant on getting that as I wasn't sure if the monitor will "switch" and sync. My questions are roughly thus: 1. Assuming I get the proper cord, will the NTSC 1080 sync up and display the PAL signal properly? 2. Do I need to get a 23-pin to RGB or 23-pin to RGB to VGA, or 23-pin to component or 23-pin to RGB to something else cable and try my luck with various HD tv's I may have that might have a VGA, RGB, or component input on the rear of them? I also have a brand-new Retrotink 5x Pro recently purchased for my other gaming needs and was trying to see if that could be a part of the solution. I do not have anything SCART related and would rather not go down that route if possible. I have seen a somewhat dated post showing a list of compatible monitors, but was wondering if someone had any recent experience. I'm also trying to find a modern solution for my Atari 1040STF as well. I'm going to drop a post there as well as I have the mono, high res-monitor and it works fine, but wanted color also. I appreciate your time and appreciate any assistance! Thanks!
  8. Hopefully, not a fruitless question. I have a sd2iec and a 1541. While cleaning the attic, I recently came across some original C64 games. I'm currently playing Bard's Tale 3 and reliving some memories. My question is it possible to copy the data from the original floppies to a sd card and play using the sd2iec only? I prefer to use my 1541 sparingly, so I'm looking to use the sd card solution. My understanding is that the original BT3 disks aren't copy protected in any way as I made copies as directed by the documentation, put the original disks away, and am happily playing with the copies. I've tried downloading some d64's of the BT3 files off various sites, but my experience with them hasn't been great. I don't need a hacked version of the game, when it looks like the original isn't copy protected anyways. I can't fathom a solution of plugging the sd2iec into the 1541, etc. that would work. Maybe I'm just dense... Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
  9. It appears to have one rubber foot that is heavily worn and ground down. I'm going to try and replace all the feet and check the tolerance with the console plugged in and see if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion...
  10. HI! New to the forums, so apologies in advance for the noob question. I recently picked up an Intellivoice module (boxed and cheap) and am struggling to get anything close to reasonable play out of it. My brown original console works, controllers are fine, etc. I can play game cartridges with no problems, etc. However, inserting the Intellivoice and then inserting a cartridge results in the black screen 9 times out of 10. After fiddling with it, re-inserting it, cleaning the cartridge slot, etc. I can get it to work for a session, then am back to square one the next day. I've noticed that there is not a "tight" fit between the console and the intellivoice module. I've also noticed quite a bit of "play" in the connection between the two. Is this normal? Do I just have a "loose" module? Is there an optimal connection point or angle between the two? Even just pulling out a cartridge and putting in another one is enough to break this connection and send me back to square one. Haven't tried taking the module apart yet for a really deep cleaning, but am willing to go that route for a reliable connection. Thanks in advance for any advice!
×
×
  • Create New...