The Le Mans pic remains my overall favorite conversion. However, this is another pic that looks like it might have been done by a pixel artist specifically for A8. It is my favorite in this vein. Kudos!
Having a problem with both versions of the hacked ROM: when in the "Bigjump" and using the + key to scroll down the list, it always bails out at the point shown below, prints the text "OK" off to the left side of the list, and then Altirra's connection status changes to "(in command mode)". At that point I can do nothing but reboot and start over. I can type text, but nothing seem to have any effect on the mode I'm stuck in.
I wonder what "Blue October" is? I had friends in a band in the 80's called Red October,...But these days you never know...I'd hope it's a band but it could just as easily be a store, a bar, a video game, a micro brew...
Click Settings and make sure "Full - SIO Protocol and 6520 R: Handler" is enabled. Click OK.
Under 850 Interface Module-->Serial Port--> click on "(no attached devices)" and add Modem
Click Settings. "Emulate Telnet Protocol" and "Allow outgoing connections" should both be enabled. Click OK
and Click OK again
If you haven't already done so select File-->Attach Cartridge and choose the Atari Learning Phone cartridge (PLATO).
The cartridge should boot to an amber/greenish screen with the words, "WELCOME TO THE LEARNING PHONE".
If the 850 interface and the simulated modem have been setup you should see "1200 baud". You can then type "ATDICYBERSERV.ORG 8005" and ENTER. Typed charcters will echo twice. [EDIT] If it's not setup correctly you will see "Microbit 300 baud"
You should see "Press NEXT to begin". I usually just tap ENTER a few times.
Screen will go blank for about a minute before the Cyber1 signon appears.
There's a quick test you can do to see if the ATR8000 has booted. From BASIC type LPRINT.
If you get READY without an error then the ATR8000's printer spooler function is running.
If you get error 138 then the Atari is not getting a response from the ATR8000.
Things you need to do with an ATR8000.
- floppy drive should have drive termination set, usually a resistor network (DIP or SIP) but sometimes via a jumper.
- drive select jumper should be set to DS0
- cable should be a straight through. There shouldn't be any wires flipped as with a PC AT's floppy cable
- floppy drive should be powered before the ATR8000 is powered. A disk must be in the drive when the ATR8000 is powered. ATR8000 will not register a disk otherwise, strangely  *sometimes* not even when RESET (on the back of the ATR8000) is pressed.
- powering the ATR8000 (or pressing the ATR8000's RESET button) should cause the floppy drive to spin.
I've had good success with NodeMCU dev boards using Strikelink and Zimodem 3.0 firmwares (links below).
Both firmwares work well. Both have telnet modes. Zimodem has the ability to answer. (EDIT - I haven't tested this aspect).
I'm still playing at this. I didn't add RS232 level conversion. I just connected the boards' TX, RX and GND lines (so far) to SIO. Power is via USB Phone charger.
I've been using the bobverter driver on the Atari but I'm not sure how to add RVerter logic. Since I don't have a real R: interface set up and the device just sits on the SIO bus I can't do disk I/O unless I'm using my internal MyIDE (with SDX 4.49c beta).
My 2 cents regarding filters (/filter=). Use catmullrom. All others make the destination look as if soft focus has been used.
I use a details mask a lot but you might be surprised how I use it. I don't always mask areas of a picture where I want details to come through. Sometimes a conversion seems to get stuck. Ugly problems appear and no amount of processing seems to correct it. In such a case I use a mask to select the trouble spot(s) on the picture so that hopefully those area get extra processing.
For example, the Christmas Hearth pic that I converted would get banding every time. The bands showed themselves in the brick areas left and right of the flames. I used gimp and edited output.png. Here's what I do.
I create a second layer and make it all black. I then overlay this layer. I do this so I can paint on the black layer yet a visible indication shows in the composite picture. Finally I delete the original layer which leaves just the black and white mask. It's alot easier than painting a white mask over a picture and then later painting the rest of picture black.