Adding a keyboard (and other upgrades) to the Bally Professional Arcade

Entry posted by Gunstar March 29, 2022

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Prelude

Now that the Bally Arcade is restored, it's time for some upgrades. The Bally Arcade and Astrocade systems were designed to be upgraded into full computers that keyboards, printers and even a light pen could be added too. Officially none of these items or a memory upgrade were ever released by Bally or the later company called Astrocade that purchased the Bally Arcade from Bally. Both promised solutions but all turned out to be vaporware and I don't think prototypes were even made, just schematics and words on paper. Enough though that some, back in the 80's and now are turning Bally Astrocades into computers, from scratch with only some documentation or using third party devices and documentation.

Part 0: Notes and explanation

Any text centered in bold denotes the next part or "chapter" to the blog.

I do my blogs a bit at a time at the same time I am doing the actual upgrades, and mods and taking pictures of it all. In this blog until it is finished, there will be text in Italic denoting it is temporary, an explanation of what is still to come, that will be replaced when what is still to come, gets done. I do not write all of any part at once either, and there will be Italic temporary text letting you know if there is more to come in that part. If there is no Italic text at the end of a part, that part is finished.

I have chosen an upgrade similar to early third-party upgrades, but maybe stream-lined a bit, called 'Lil' White Ram.' I assume because it's small, has a white case and is extended ram. It upgrades the Bally/Astrocade to 32K (I don't know if that is all or if it is on top of the 4K the console has to start with. Of course with the Z80 processor 64K is the max without banked memory to switch in and out.

I also have Bally Basic cart with a 2000 baud cassette tape jack and a vintage cassette deck I just ordered to go with it. Though I will have to repair and restore it as well. A machine language monitor cart is another upgrade to allow use of the Astrocade like a computer, called the Machine Language Manager or MLM. Both come with labeled keypad overlays using shift and control buttons to select BASIC words and commands and enter numbers and letters.

Part 1: The keyboard and keypad kits

The keyboard upgrade this all around upgrade blog is titled after will connect to the 24 key (10-pin) keypad and a ribbon cable is generally fed out the rear PBI/expansion connector or through an area of choice modified to allow the ribbon cable to protrude. In my case, I have one of the earlier motherboards that still has a 10-pin "test" edge connector built in, for factory testing and then it gets enclosed and hidden by the case and metal shielding. I am making use of this connector so I can have a nice, neat keyboard connection with a keyboard that can be unplugged. I will have to cut out openings in both the metal shielding and the plastic case for access for a keyboard plug.

So after looking into a couple of keyboard alternatives, and almost settling on two different keyboards I had on hand and one that someone offered, but turned out not to be in working condition, and deciding I could find something better, with a case already, I looked into it a bit deeper and found what I want in a kit keyboard. So I don't have to build my own, and that matches the wood grain of the Bally Professional Arcade, It's a high-end mechanical keyboard kit with real real Walnut wood case, that I have just ordered.

While starting the keyboard upgrade to the Bally motherboard as I wait on the keyboard to arrive, I noticed that the Bally Basic console keypad overlay and the Machine Language Manager keypad overlay have different layouts for the numbers, a row off from each other. This presented a problem because this keyboard upgrade is designed to directly hard wire the console keypad's keys to the keyboard so the key board is seen by the Bally as the console keypad. And if buttons are used for different things between the two programming carts, then the keys on the keyboard will match up with Basic, but not with MLM or vice versa.

At first I decided to just label the keys for both Basic and MLM with top and bottom half different labels to follow for each. But then I decided that would make the keyboard to "busy" looking and detract from appearance, which I am going out of the way to make all look classy and match. So, I decided that I would have two keyboards, one for Basic and one for MLM. But I also didn't want to constantly be swapping keyboards, and two like the one above is awful expensive for one machine. The solution I came up with was I needed to find a 24-key keypad compliment the keyboard and both could easily fit on the desktop together, and it makes the system look more complete overall as well. Then I can attach both via a Y-adapter cable and leave both plugged in, using the keyboard for Basic and the keypad for entering MLM code. So here is the keypad I found to go with the keyboard pictured below. I will have to either make a walnut would case for it to match the keyboard, or at least find walnut wood grain laminate to attach to the perimeter so they match.

Assembly and wiring of keyboards yet to come when they arrive

Part 2: Case and shield/ground plane modification

Cutting an opening to plug in the keyboard to an unused (for factory testing) 10-pin edge connector. First I cut away part of the shielding and paper insulator to have access to the hidden edge connector.

Then inserting the shielding and motherboard back in the case bottom, I use a gold sharpie to mark out the area to cut the plastic case for the keyboard plug to plug in.

Then I use my Dremel with a cutting wheel and Exacto razor knife and cone sander head to cut and refine the case cut-out.

Part 2: the keyboard edge connector

Next, I cut the traces connecting to the 10-pin edge connector, isolating the tongues on both sides of the board, where the plug plugs in. I also found and ordered a 10-pin edge connector plug from Mouser Electronics, shown below as well.

To be added yet is the drilling of staggered holes for both top and bottom tounges, so all ten connector fit in the space of 5 on the component side of the motherboard as there is no room on the bottom. Also pictured below are the Dupont connector male angle header that 10 of the pins will be separated individually to solder into those staggered holes.

More to come...

Part 3: installing a new wiring harness for the keypad and keyboard

The next step was to remove the old keypad harness from the motherboard and keypad, and install a new Dupont wiring socket. I used a 24-pin socket that I lined up with the keypad harness hole on he motherboard, since the holes on the motherboard are not uniform. Once I matched up pins as close as possible, I cut out the extra pins. and bent whatever pins left that had to be to insert in the pad holes on the motherboard. Then solder the new socket header onto the motherboard.

Now it's time to install some Dupont wiring that will connect to the keypad. Though I don't have enough with male to female connectors, and had to order more, so the wiring pictured below of male to male Dupont connectors is just to take pictures of what it will look like, though on the keypad side the wires from the keypad will plug into Dupont connectors.

Using the extra female connectors on the 24-pin female header I installed for dual sets of wires, one set to the keypad and the other set to the edge connector for the keyboard, by connecting adjacent pins on the female header together using short bit of wire going from one hole to the adjacent one, so that the the second set of ten wires (twenty total) make contact with the first (no pictures of this procedure yet, to be added in later). Below is a sample picture showing two sets of black/white/grey and green/blue/purple wiring. the rest will be added once my Dupont wiring arrives.

I also removed the old clear tape and aluminum backing from the keypad, and replaced it with new aluminum backing and clear packing tape as the old stuff was worn through t the black contact bubble cover and I didn't want the wear to reach the bubble contacts underneath.

Awaiting components to finish this part of the blog.

Part 4: fans and venting

Another small modification I am doing to the Bally Arcade. to also help prevent over-heating and just allow everything to last longer by not allowing it all to be constantly running hot and heating up the entire interior of the machine, as I stated in the original restoration blog of the Bally, was creating a stand for my Bally with my 3D printer and installing a PC fan in it to help keep the Bally cool. Instead I discovered that an old Xbox One fan/usb base fit perfectly under the Bally right where the venting is and a couple of plastic protrusions from the fan base fit snugly in between the venting to keep the Bally from sliding off, and it is well balanced at that position too, giving the bally about a half to one inch of air space underneath it. Yes, the fan base has been cleaned since I took these pictures.

The fans can be changed to blow into the Bally through the venting, or pull air through. I have chosen the latter setting. But there was yet another design problem with the Bally Arcade, and that is even though it has underside venting, and venting on top in the cassette holder slots, the metal shielding and it's insulation paper are completely blocking the vents, so they are practically useless anyway. So, while I had the Bally disassembled I did a bit of re-engineering myself and drill some holes through the shielding and insulation paper to allow the easy flow of air through the Bally at it's venting.

Yes, that dirty USB fan will be cleaned.

Part 5: Ram and Rom upgrades

Below are pictures of purchased upgrades and cartridges to expand the Bally Arcade into a full-fledged computer, along with the keyboard.

There may or may not be more information written to this part

Part 6: The recorder repair & restoration

Here is an old Sear tape recorder I found and purchased in "non-working, for parts" condition simply because it matches my Bally Arcades aesthetic motif very closely, and after I restore it, it will match even better, with the edition of some gold chrome trim like I used in the Bally Astrocade restoration blog I have in my profile as well. The first picture is from the auction. All others are ones I took once the recorder was in my possession and I started cleaning and repairing it, in preparation for a full restoration.

The second picture below I took right after the recorder arrived and I was able to see just how HUGE it is! I put a more modern standard size recorder next to it for comparison. It's also 3 times as tall that you don't see from that angle.

The next pictures show the recorder after an initial deep cleaning with Windex and a toothbrush. The metal parts still need another cleaning to removed the rest of the dirty residue that Windex wasn't strong enough to remove all of it quite, especially on the buttons.

Below is a picture of the inside, after cleaning it I took it apart to check the condition of the electronics inside, and the condition of any old rubber belts.

It had one belt which was indeed stretched and dry. Luckily I'd planned ahead (I have a number of cassette recorders & players) and already have a cassette drive belt assortment of standard sizes that I used to replace belts on my Atari 1010 and 410 recorders. And sure enough, I had one to fit this old Sears recorder. The belt in the picture is the new replacement which is why it looks perfectly taunt. That may be the only thing wrong with this recorder and it may work great. Testing it out is next.

Initial testing revealed that it does work, the tape plays, and rewinds and fast forwards, but there is a volume issue as the sound is VERY low and the volume bar does nothing to change it. It could be needing a head cleaning (next on list) or the volume pot needs cleaning or replacing. But also, it's eating my tapes, so I have to figure that out and correct it too.

So, it is now time to open the cassette recorder up again (last time all I did was replace the belt) and give it a really good cleaning, because 9 times out of 10 tapes being eaten are a sign of very dirty mechanisms that move the tape, via the drive motor. The volume issue needs to be addressed too. Below are pictures of the inside of the unit.

These first three pictures are mainly to show any label information on the inside of the machine.

These are all pictures just showing different angle of the mechanism and just how dirty everything is, surely cleaning it all will fix my tape-eating issue.

This next picture is of a couple of adjustment pots I found, they may need to be adjusted later...

Ok, it's now time to clean and restore all the mechanical parts. My first attempt will be doing it without taking any of the mechanism apart, as there is always a chance of issues and new problems can occur when doing this, so I avoid unless I absolutely have too. For this job,

I called in the big guns: the lighter fluid and WD-40 are for cleaning and loosening any stuck parts. The 3-in-1 oil and Lithium grease are for lubrication for some moving parts after the cleaning, grease for springs, arms and latches, oil for wheels, spindles, pulleys, gears and cogs. And also the tools I used for cleaning.

After a thorough cleaning of the mechanism and parts, and greasing and oiling some parts, I looked to the volume issue which turned out to be a simple loose wire I had to re-solder.

I then put it all back together and tried out a tape. It WORKS! Volume works, everything is moving as it should, and it didn't eat my tapes. I have a fully refurbished (mechanically & electrically) working recorder. After a second cleaning on the outside case, and applying some orange glow wood oil cleaner she almost looks new again!

All that is left is a bit more restoration to the buttons, I did the best I can cleaning them, but they still look bad. So I am going to laminate them with some gold tape I have that will help it to match the Bally better too, as well as repair the trim around the tape window using a Krylon 18K gold paint pen, the same I used to repair the Bally logos on the Bally controllers. I would use the gold chrome trim, but this part is too thin and it's too much hassle trying to cut the gold chrome trim thinner and keep it even and straight. The last bit of modifying to make it match the Bally better will be using the same gold chrome trim I used to restore the Bally's trim, around the outer top edge of the recorder. And then the final step as with the Bally, will be to wipe everything down with Rejuvenate brand paint and plastic color restorer and protector, as I also did with the Bally Arcade to bring back it's original paint and plastic color. This starts here soon.

Part 7: The Bally Professional Arcade & computer system

(wrap up of the projects and the blog, with some final pictures and notes)

Under construction

Thanks for looking at what I've done so far, the rest of the upgrade and this blog are only awaiting for parts to arrive to finish.