Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2014 in all areas

  1. Normally paddles are read with a routine like this: bit INPT0 ;3 @3 bmi .paddleDone-1 ;2³ @5/6 sty padZero ;3 @8 .paddleDone: If the branch is taken it jumps between the opcode and operand of the 'sty padZero' instruction. The trick is to make the ram location of 'padZero' the same as an opcode that takes 2 cycles. That way the routine takes 8 cycles no matter what. There are several ram locations which could be chosen for 'padZero'. Some of the better ones include $EA (NOP opcode), $D8 (CLD opcode), $B8 (CLV opcode). You need to have X or Y as a line counter to make that optimized routine work. For CAA (Circus AtariAge) I didn't have either X or Y available. I'm using Y to skipdraw two objects (each with a different scanline counter that gets loaded into Y). I'm also using X with LAX (indirect),Y to pre-load for an upcoming line when it gets busy in the kernel. I looked for a way to make a paddle routine without using X or Y. I also required it to have constant cycles since a lot of places in the CAA kernel are already fully packed without a WSYNC... for several lines. An unique constraint of CAA allowed me to construct a routine without using X or Y. The constraint was I simply needed less than 128 samples to get the full range of movement for the seesaw: The routine essentially looks like this (for one paddle), with padZero pre-loaded to $7F: lda #$7F ;2 @2 cmp INPT0 ;3 @5 adc padZero ;3 @8 sta padZero ;3 @11 I don't care about bit 7. Only values 128-255 use bit 7, and I need only 118 samples. It can be set or cleared by the routine on different scanlines and that's okay. Ultimately I deal with the result like this: lda #$7F eor padZero asl lsr ; clears carry too adc #OFFSET_FOR_SEESAW sta hposSeeSaw Turning the paddle right moves the seesaw right, as it should be. I added a similar routine for reading 'padOne' as I'm reading both paddles every frame. I've thought about reading paddles every other scanline or so, and alternating frames (read only one paddle per frame). In the end I decided to write a kernel for maximum resolution. In future blog entries I might comment on some the trials and tribulations I had with early HMOVE's and paddle reads, and how it affected design decisions.
    2 points
  2. From the album: Colecovision Speed Boost (testing)

    I was told that crystals are very sensitive and you should use shorter wires even for testing. I went to Radio Shack and got a set of smaller Breadboards and hooked this red one up . The wires are MUCH shorter than the old wires were. Hopefully this will help with testing once I get the CPU's in.
    1 point
  3. 1 point
  4. From the album: Colecovision Installing F18A

    Screwed together.....Did I say that the F18A is awesome yet....well it is!!!!
    1 point
  5. From the album: Colecovision Installing F18A

    I took this shot so you can see that the little screws have plenty of room to go into the Colecovision.
    1 point
  6. From the album: Colecovision Installing F18A

    Place your cable in the hole. I recommend that you make the hole go down a little lower than I did so that you won't have any issues putting the top of the Colecovision back on. Now find a drill and a drill bit that fits the 2 small holes. I moved the guts of the Colecovision over upside down on a folded towel while I drilled into the plastic. I recommend drilling the holes while holding the cable in place. What I did was pull the Black plastic housing of the Cable back about 2 inches to protect it from getting drilled and then I put 1 finger on top of the cable end where it meets the Colecovision plastic and then drilled with my other hand. Drill slowly. If you don't have an adjustable speed drill, just tap the drill on button so it quickly stops. Worked like a charm!
    1 point
  7. From the album: Colecovision Installing F18A

    Drill, cut, dremel or burn your way through the back plastic. I used a soldering iron and kept testing with the cable to see how it looked and to get a great fit. The way I did it is fairly slow, but did the job. Remember that the little screws are going to go through the plastic of the Colecovision, so don't make your hole too wide. The whole point is to hide a scraggly looking hole with a nice looking piece of metal.
    1 point
  8. From the album: Colecovision Installing F18A

    Take the screws off the plate of the F18A's cable. Now separate the metal from the black plastic housing of the cable and straddle it across the Colecovision's edge to see where you want to put it.
    1 point
  9. From the album: Colecovision Mods

    This Colecovision has 5 mods: 1) Yurkie's AV mod 2) Heavy Duty Rocker power switch 3) Pause Mod 4) Red ON indicator LED 5) Custom Reset button I'm going to take a break from this and see if I can figure out the Speed boost switch mod.
    1 point
  10. From the album: Colecovision Speed Boost (testing)

    This is my Colecovision Speed Boost Test Machine w/Breadboard so I can easily swap crystals out. This machine has some issues. 1) No player 2 port? 2) Graphics are a bit garbled when playing games. Mods on this machine: 1) Power Switch Mod (made the machine go from "broken" to working....still has garbled graphics a bit though) 2) DIY AV mod so I could test with and without the RF 3) I guess easy Crystal change Mod? More for me to just test.
    1 point
  11. From the album: Colecovision Mods

    My camera doesn't do the brightness of the led justice. I figured it makes more sense to put the led right beside the word "ON" instead of the left side of the switch like most mods have. I chose a red color LED to match the color of the Power switch.
    1 point
  12. From the album: Colecovision Mods

    My camera doesn't do the brightness of the led justice. I figured it makes more sense to put the led right beside the word "ON" instead of the left side of the switch like most mods have. I chose a red color LED to match the color of the Power switch.
    1 point
  13. From the album: Colecovision Mods

    When the Colecovision is OFF but plugged in, it still draws power. This can be a problem if you have an illuminated Switch you want to install in place of the old Power switch. The problem is that the led will stay on even when the switch is turned off. The location indicated in this picture near the expansion slot seems to be a good point to use for a led (remember to use the correct resistor with the led or it might burn out).
    1 point
  14. I think it's best to consult a lawyer before you post anything. You never know how someone is going to interpret what you say. Every sentence needs to be expanded into at least 5 paragraphs so your meaning will be obvious to even the most dense. A mob can form quickly and you can be labeled an a-hole or a troll before you've had a chance to respond. Your attempts to explain what you thought was obvious in the first place and your call for people to look back at what you said can be seen as "classic troll behavior." A mob can create a troll or an a-hole out of thin air. Even if you're lucky enough to have it all cleared up, you'll usually end up with some damage while the mob goes off on their merry way without a scratch. Mobs are worse than real trolls. They do more damage because mobs are usually made up of pillars of the community; honorable men and women. The quickly formed "upright citizens brigade" goes on a little crusade hacking and slashing, raping and pillaging, drinking from golden chalices full of warm human blood, then they go back to their self-righteous, self-satisfied lives where they are convinced that they have never committed an evil act, as blood trickles down their chins. Related Link: Flame Warriors: The Swarm Random Terrain _
    1 point
  15. To be fair, most of them swear afterwards they thought the chalice contained milk.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...