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About e5frog

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  • Birthday 10/06/1974

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    Programming, electronics and old tv-games
    The Beatles

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  1. Got the new label prints, they got it right this time. I'll probably ship the first Videocart-28 after the weekend.
  2. As I have gotten questions and I'm not making any more Multi-Carts this year since I'll be busy making Videocart-28, I'll sell the last two boards as well. Boards are already assembled and tested, just need to to finish shell and box. So if you wanted one for Christmas, you have two chances.
  3. Seems the message storage is full - I was assuming it threw out the oldest posts when it got there. Send me an e-mail: [email protected]
  4. I have PCB:s, not sure about parts, send me a PM...
  5. Last orders of Multi-Carts were shipped today. Enjoy! I'm increasing speed on Videocart 28 manufacturing.
  6. Got delivery of box prints and labels - unfortunately they cut all the top labels out - which makes it a pain to attach the double sided adhesive foil. Instead of just attach and cut out the quickest way would be to attach, cut adhesive around the entire label off (unless somehow cut it to fit exaclty) and then snip the corners. I'm hoping they'll do a reprint - as they usually don't send them like that, otherwise I probably need to buy a reprint
  7. I have got confirmation on the order for Videocart-28 boxes and labels. I will need to print the manuals myself and also add adhesive to labels as their only type of label prints were a bit thin - and transparent. Haven't got any delivery date yet.
  8. Bond movie from 1967? Originally meant to be several games? They just changed their mind?
  9. Nice work! Is gate delays in the vicinity of what is needed? (usually in the range of 6-33ns) If color information goes into the RAM it should be possible to pick it up earlier? When setting the color information in the software you set the color on port 1, column on port 4 and row on port 5. Color codes: green = $00 (%00000000) red = $40 (%01000000) blue = $80 (%10000000) bkg = $C0 (%11000000) I believe anything sent through the ports is inverted, you invert it before writing it to the port. Activation sequence for setting VRAM with this information is done with: $60 on port 0 (port 0 is on CPU pins 16,11,10,5,36,31,30,29 bit0-7) $40 to port 0 (keeps the bit 1 on joystick signals, zeroes - on the input of the port - the other bits) Then a delay is needed for the real machine (not in MESS emulation) before you try and change graphics again or there's garbage. So when there's a pulse on bit 5 (pin 31) of port 0, reading the data from ports 1, 4 and 5 at that pulse gives the color and coordinate. You'd need a video memory to plot in and then an output routine for the RGB/HDMI/whatever to draw these. Not sure how you do it, perhaps decoding the actual analog TV output is a better/easier and cheaper approach. Perhaps also an easier DIY method.
  10. Very nice looking boxes! The #22 and #19 sometimes share the same PCB and this type can be jumpered to either version. If they're both not working maybe it's worth trying to re-jumper them to the other type. There was a good image showing it... can't find it atm. So here's mine: I put a switch in one to toggle between them, so the jumper closest to the 74LS02 is the one swapping. Last image is jumpered to slot, not sure it helps - as you can't clearly see but if you check your #22 it should be the other way. Not sure if the goo affects the actual chip or bondwires (which can bee seen poking out on some carts) or perhaps thermal stress causing the bond wires to loosen. It's possible the goo shrinks after some years and rip the bondwires from the chip... EDIT: Found a good one of mine, I know I have posted this before somewhere. Shows the two jumper positions of the one closest to the IC, don't bother changing the other one.
  11. Don't think there's #19 in anything else than blob type but there are #22 and #23 with the large square plastic covers. The square plastic cover version has pin numbers in the copper layer, you can read 22,12,11,1 at the sides of the connector pads, the traces also attaches to the pads on the left side - and not in the middle, as is usual. Blob versions have no numbers at the connector and traces attaches in the middle of the pads. You should be able to ask a seller for a photo of the connector to make sure. Regarding my #23 with plastic covers, that one has the black print only kind of Zircon label. I'm guessing it was the last version. In conclusion, I have two variations of both 22 and 23, each with a blob version and one with the large square plastic cap.
  12. It's unusual that they don't work as long as there's no rattle from loose chip lids or it's the "rubber" chip coating. A loose lid could have fallen out though - opening the cart may damage the edge label... So, decide if it's worth the money to add it to the collection even if it might be broken. If function goes before collector's value it's not a problem making a working circuit board.
  13. Both model 1 and model 2 has the same two different AC-voltages going into the console. Model 1 requires some more power with all its logic-chips, model 2 requires less because of the custom integrated chips - so the latter PSU is physically smaller. There are model 1 looking consoles with a small PSU as well - these are the middle versions that have the new chips, which makes the motherboard look very empty. That also means they have the upgraded sound, and it seems there are versions with built-in speaker or sound via the antenna. Anyway, we have two levels of AC in which are rectified (diodes/bridge pack) and smoothed with electrolytic caps to result in over 7V/14V for the 5V/12V regulators. -5V is used for RAM - it's made in the console. They haven't been shy with the AC input voltages so there's more than enough voltage which makes regulators run quite warm, sometimes they aren't screwed into the metal cover (which works as a heat sink). I had a model 2 which had the regulators in sockets, don't know if it was the original construction but I guess it was a lot easier to swap them. You can hook up 12VDC and 5VDC directly, easiest is to use the legs of the capacitors after the regulators, either from two separate PSUs or a double voltage version like the ones used to externally hook up a harddrive - or even a PC PSU. These need to be stabilized of course, a USB charger is not recommended unless first checking it gives continous stable voltage. It's interesting work, keep it up.
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