Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

201 Excellent

About e5frog

  • Rank
  • Birthday 10/06/1974

Contact / Social Media

Profile Information

  • Custom Status
  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Programming, electronics and old tv-games
    The Beatles

Recent Profile Visitors

18,646 profile views
  1. I think it's working great, the out of bounds functionality make you hit it a bit more carefully.
  2. There seems to be two versions of buttons, one uses external coil springs, the other has gold plated internal springs that also works as the connecting piece in the switching part. Buttons are pretty much sealed up, you can try anti oxidizer in the plunger gap - or drill a small hole, I did that once. I once cut the top part off and rolled out a little piece of the spring so I'd get a fresh piece pressing against the metal, it had worn down and anti oxidizer didn't help. If it's the external spring version you can steal one from another keyboard perhaps. I imagine, worst case, cut one of the other springs in half and pull them long enough. Haven't got any images right now, can post some tomorrow.
  3. You could use one of the MESS 0.131 - 0.146... IIRC the MESSUI releases are OK: http://www.progettosnaps.net/messui/ Bunch of MESS: http://www.progettosnaps.net/mess/ I really really really dislike the MAME-i-fication and user interface/GUI, it seems to be mainly meant for an arcade controller setup and not for a normal computer. Regarding Channel F there's no need to rush for the latest version, no updates have been made really. I have these examples in bat-files for starting games: start /high messui channelf -cartridge game.bin -throttle -debug start "" /HIGH messuipp luxorvec -cart game.bin -keepaspect messd channelf -cart game.bin messd channelf -cartridge game.bin -w -effect sharp -r 640x480 -ka So maybe the -w switch will window it for you. Also had this for recording video: messui channelf -cartridge game.bin -throttle -nodebug -aviwrite video.avi I'm pretty sure you can setup screen etc if starting from command line but if you set it up from the GUI it should start the same. I can have a look at that 0-digit later, just needs a condition in the right place to either change the graphics offset (to empty) or change the color (to no change).
  4. I hit the tree and ended up outside the play area, left a green shadow when getting out of there. Green stuff stays there for the following holes.
  5. Love the progress! It would look really nice if the hundreds digit wasn't showing before it's 1 (no 0).
  6. Naah... pulling ribbon cables from the motherboard connectors is easier I think, mounting them again is a bit of work, which is why I wanted to check how hard it was in the other end. Ribbon cable is bent twice to fit through a slot at the cart connector end... and you basically have to flatten it to get it out through the slot of the connector if you don't want to unhook it from the motherboard- so - no go. I think the American model (like SABA Videoplay) has a connector with isolated pins through the metal case, just pull those, pretty sure it's keyed so you don't put it back the wrong way. With it's loose you can put the entire PSU aside. After pulling the cartridge ribbon cables (in backwards direction) with the cartridge connector assembly you need to unhook the RF cable before you can pull the top off. It's peeled clean with the braided shield showing and a clamp to the metal case, slide clamp loose (difficult usually) and then pull the RCA looking antenna cable from the motherboard. As you may notice they thought it was too much work to drill a hole in the motherboard under the connector to fit a normal RCA connector - so this one has the pin cut down, which you need to replicate if you want to fit a better cable in there later on. Power is loose, RF cable loose, chute loose... just pull off, right? Nope, open carefully and you have a connection internally from those four pins in the metal case to pins on the motherboard (perhaps soldered), loosen that and you can put the metal top aside. If you want to test later on you need to bridge the internal connector and the PSU connector, I have used bent pieces of solder tin, worked fine. To be able to work on the board (solder on the solder side) you now have to de-solder (preferably) the braids grounding the motherboard to the metal shell, it will be difficult if you don't have a soldering iron with enough oumhpf (I believe that's the technical term). Both regarding wattage as well as type of tip (large tip usually has the best heat transfer ability). You could snip them in half and it may be a little easier to solder them together again. Now you need to unscrew the regulator heat sinks from the bottom metal case, old boards have a 7812 regulator for 12V in a TO-220 capsule, not heat sinked and a 7805 regulator in TO-3 capsule that is screwed to the bottom metal case with an angled aluminum piece. If you have the "Channel F 1.5" with a lot of empty space and no rows of logic circuits as well as the smaller PSU you'll just have a TO-220 of both 7805 and 7812. That ones has the same electronics as the Channel F II but on a big board and often also a build in speaker but sometimes sound on TV. After that, motherboard is loose, check how the controller cables are drawn if you plan on reassembling, usually bent in an angle with paper tape around them. You may also have this version, which seems a bit overworked: Final problem is the speaker, foam that was there is likely a brittle, cloggy, sticky mess and the speaker will hang in the wires. Mark a cable and the connector on the motherboard so you'll reattach + and - in the right spots. It helps a lot to remove it instead of having to tape it down or leave it hanging in its wires. Be careful not to have any little metal stuff under the motherboard if you hook it up while on the laboratory bench/kitchen table/floor/grass/bed... it's pretty sturdy stuff though. I can recommend cleaning at least the contact surface of all socked chips. The four RAM chips may be gold plated which means the sockets are the ones getting oxidized. Mark positions and type The metal ribbons in the ribbon cable is prone to come loose from the plastic sheets, a piece of thin double sided tape (or the type that is just glue with no plastic tape) may help, you can wipe the glue off in between the metal parts with proper solvent (depends on the glue on the tape). If you don't have anything like that you can side it over the edge of the plastic in an angle so that the metal parts will meet with the metal of the connector first and the the plastic. Now at an angle, metal parts already touching, you can firmly press the ribbon cable into the connector. You need to do this with the cart chute loose on top of the top metal cover with the ribbon cables going through the slots. You may however want to test things before closing it up. Makes you wonder if they had other plans for the cart chute - apart from a mechanical point of view having less stress with ribbon cables moving - why the long ribbon cables? Worst possible scenario if having taken the ribbon cable from the cartridge connector assembly. You see the angled shape of the cable end: Here's sliding the ribbon cable into the slot of the cartridge connector assembly: The connecting slot is then here (here removed from the former slot): If you give up there are options, I suggest (instead of like in the image) you use double the amount of wires and ground every second (unused) wire. I use this one for my Sean Riddle Videocart dumper.
  7. Simply pull buttons straight up, you may have springs under them. Either you have metal case with clamps on the edges, just pull loose, or you have a whole lot of screws... Tricky part is actually the cart holder which needs to be removed before getting in there. Four screws that may have washers (which you don't want to drop when remounting). Then the two white ribbon cables. These are actually pushed into the cart connector as well as the connector on the motherboard. Will get some images...
  8. Speaking for being a real copy is the included other carts that look very new (supporting the story) but it would have been wise to ask to see the edge label and PCB before bidding. That as well as having a high feedback and the guy selling old used vinyl records and could very well have stumbled upon this. The PCB with its chips would be quite difficult to fake.
  9. ... and it was five dirt common videocarts - like new presumably, which would have been a nice swap/upgrade in the collection.
  10. F* Spent 10 minutes writing a wrong reply and site stopped working - post lost. I'll try and make it shorter. I was first looser, at $1437 - and no, I don't think it's worth that much, I hoped nobody else would be that "generous". The $650 I had managed to save up for it would have been a more sane price when comparing to the Democart 2:s that have been sold on eBay before. As I gathered funds I continuously raised my bids and put in the huge one when I was able to fund it (with extra, borrowed money). Of course now there was a bunch of bids just by me so I decided to clean up, retract the bid(s) and put it back in again... Jumping to the end I checked sniper sites (suggested by Shane, the seller) but decided to snipe manually (the thrill, the thrill) and I managed to time it with five seconds to go, the winner was a second earlier - but the biggest wallet always wins anyway, you snipe to not reveal your top bid and hopefully bid so late that others don't have the time to reply with a bid. I think the $25 he beat me with is the minimum bid increment at that level. I wish I had decided to just snipe to start with as my (initial) top bid was revealed by an account with 1 in feedback, 10 bid retractions and also bid 36 times in 15minutes, low balling with bids like $399.99 and similar - trying NOT to win. Then stopped as maximum was revealed - $2 from the max bid. I believe it was $1327 (yes, it's in the listing). Complained to the seller, as well as eBay, seller cancelled the bids and blocked the bidder, eBay sent a standard message pre-formulated message (pretending they don't earn big box from shill bidding) saying they will take actions that I would notice but not what. That shill bidder account is still active, now has a bunch of more bids and now 16 bid retractions, could be an automated service even that people paid for, you just need to register with an email address to get an account, that's it. https://offer.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewBidderProfile&mode=1&item=143297642120&bidtid=1669322691004&_trksid=p2471758.m4792 You can't dodge it when people are messing with you (an auction) on eBay, not if running a plain auction. Now I was in the lead again - at $310. The information about my top bid was already found out though. So, I retracted my bid again - what to do, can't just continue to raise, it was already a ridiculous amount of money. Just to safe up in case auction would end at $305 I put a bid in at $306 and decided to leave it, it was already a tainted auction and you never know if it's outside interference, if other odd things will happen and/or if the seller is involved. When a 0 feedback bidder suddenly popped up I bid a little more, but managed to "help myself". There was some real bids and then another 0 feedback bidder!? Couldn't resist the temptation with Shane's tip, and then you know the end, had to add some so it got $110 higher - but it wasn't enough. So it kind of sucks but I'm still kind of happy I didn't actually win it for that much, have my $650 left and didn't have to borrow any money. The obfuscated bidder alias and feedback score looks familiar, should be a known collector I think. Who knows how it would have ended without the 0/1 feedback bids, I guess I would have bid $1327 and the other guy would have gotten it for $110 less. If it was a fake win or the real winner changes his mind/non paying bidder - we'll see that Democart 2 again, by itself - at a much higher price than the $75 this lot started on. Mhm - you can prevent a sale by a fake bidding winner that doesn't pay - no fees. Then, when feeling the waters you can squeeze out a little more. Not that I think it was a fake winner with that feedback score (1228). High bids like this will also attract people to the system, as well as general brokers buying and selling anything - and we'll be forced to pay a lot more than if it was deals between flea market finds and collectors.
  11. If you hold it up to a lightbulb you can see which label it is without peeling. You can get a pristine #1 instructionlabel that way, #12 is common as well. Extreme collecting would be to collect all label combinations as well, #24 with #1 label under, label #12 and Democart. 🙂
  12. I also play it in MESS, I use v133b at the moment - I'll check for real this weekend and we'll see. This gets it quiet for me, edited golfdrawing3.inc ... first plot ; set the row using r3 lis 4 as 3 ; fix the y coordinate com oi %11000000 outs 5 ... then blit com ; invert it .blitRow: oi %11000000 outs 5 So it clears the 2 MSbits - as numbers are inverted.
  13. I *think* there's only two left in the current batch (I have more boards but not sure about the memory interface circuit). So if you're not a fan of waiting longer than needed, get one of the two that is left - or why not both, save it for Christmas and give to a friend - include a console.
  14. SABA#20 is sold. There's still #19 - which has the same ROMs as Fairchild/Zircon #23...
  15. Wohooo! Two strokes on hole 1! r48: There's still noise when in upmost position, other kind now, like a buzzing sound, seems bits are changing several times now.
  • Create New...