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e5frog

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Posts posted by e5frog

  3. Posted

    Got delivery of box prints and labels - unfortunately they cut all the top labels out - which makes it a pain to attach the double sided adhesive foil.

    Instead of just attach and cut out the quickest way would be to attach, cut adhesive around the entire label off (unless somehow cut it to fit exaclty) and then snip the corners.

    I'm hoping they'll do a reprint - as they usually don't send them like that, otherwise I probably need to buy a reprint

  6. Posted

    Nice work!
    Is gate delays in the vicinity of what is needed? (usually in the range of 6-33ns)

     

    If color information goes into the RAM it should be possible to pick it up earlier? 

     

    When setting the color information in the software you set the color on port 1, column on port 4 and row on port 5.
    Color codes:

    green    = $00 (%00000000)
    red    = $40 (%01000000)
    blue    = $80 (%10000000)
    bkg    = $C0 (%11000000)

    I believe anything sent through the ports is inverted, you invert it before writing it to the port.

    Activation sequence for setting VRAM with this information is done with:
    $60 on port 0 (port 0 is on CPU pins 16,11,10,5,36,31,30,29 bit0-7)

    $40  to port 0 (keeps the bit 1 on joystick signals, zeroes - on the input of the port - the other bits)
    Then a delay is needed for the real machine (not in MESS emulation) before you try and change graphics again or there's garbage. 


    So when there's a pulse on bit 5 (pin 31) of port 0, reading the data from ports 1, 4 and 5 at that pulse gives the color and coordinate. 
    You'd need a video memory to plot in and then an output routine for the RGB/HDMI/whatever to draw these. 

     


    Not sure how you do it, perhaps decoding the actual analog TV output is a better/easier and cheaper approach.

    Perhaps also an easier DIY method.  ;-)
     

     

     

     


     

  7. Posted · Edited by e5frog

    1 hour ago, Jorbus said:

    Thanks for the info. My copies of 19 and 22 are both plastic Blob and both are non-functioning. I take it that if all copies of 19 have the blobs that means all copies will eventually degrade and stop working if left I'm their original state? At least they are both in-box and in good (outward) condition....

    23 works though.

    Very nice looking boxes!
    The #22 and #19 sometimes share the same PCB and this type can be jumpered to either version. If they're both not working maybe it's worth trying to re-jumper them to the other type. 

    There was a good image showing it... can't find it atm. 
    So here's mine: I put a switch in one to toggle between them, so the jumper closest to the 74LS02 is the one swapping. 

    Last image is jumpered to slot, not sure it helps - as you can't clearly see but if you check your #22 it should be the other way.
    250895355_CheckersandSlotPCBsback.thumb.jpg.f0e3f6cf7b2452637ff06c342171cc6d.jpg

     

     

    414796750_CheckersandSlotPCBsfront.thumb.jpg.7de3cb7badc1df4ad6ca609d9be3f423.jpg

    Hpim9086.thumb.jpg.8f2407d5934545ed546c84d172522156.jpg

     

    Not sure if the goo affects the actual chip or bondwires (which can bee seen poking out on some carts) or perhaps thermal stress causing the bond wires to loosen.

    It's possible the goo shrinks after some years and rip the bondwires from the chip...

     

     

    EDIT:
    Found a good one of mine, I know I have posted this before somewhere.
    Shows the two jumper positions of the one closest to the IC, don't bother changing the other one.
    842329223_ZirconPCBswitches.thumb.jpg.a08e5dda67b908eaa1afebd6ff273e6c.jpg

     

    • Like 1

  8. Posted

    Don't think there's #19 in anything else than blob type but there are #22 and #23 with the large square plastic covers. 

     

    The square plastic cover version has pin numbers in the copper layer, you can read 22,12,11,1 at the sides of the connector pads, the traces also attaches to the pads on the left side - and not in the middle, as is usual.

     

    Blob versions have no numbers at the connector and traces attaches in the middle of the pads.

    You should be able to ask a seller for a photo of the connector to make sure. 

     

    Regarding my #23 with plastic covers, that one has the black print only kind of Zircon label. I'm guessing it was the last version. 

     

    In conclusion, I have two variations of both 22 and 23, each with a blob version and one with the large square plastic cap. 

    • Like 1

  9. Posted

    It's unusual that they don't work as long as there's no rattle from loose chip lids or it's the "rubber" chip coating. 

    A loose lid could have fallen out though - opening the cart may damage the edge label... 

    So, decide if it's worth the money to add it to the collection even if it might be broken. 

    If function goes before collector's value it's not a problem making a working circuit board. 

  10. Posted · Edited by e5frog

    Both model 1 and model 2 has the same two different AC-voltages going into the console. 
    Model 1 requires some more power with all its logic-chips, model 2 requires less because of the custom integrated chips - so the latter PSU is physically smaller. 

    There are model 1 looking consoles with a small PSU as well - these are the middle versions that have the new chips, which makes the motherboard look very empty. 

    That also means they have the upgraded sound, and it seems there are versions with built-in speaker or sound via the antenna.

     

    Anyway, we have two levels of AC in which are rectified (diodes/bridge pack) and smoothed with electrolytic caps to result in over 7V/14V for the 5V/12V regulators.
    -5V is used for RAM - it's made in the console.
    They haven't been shy with the AC input voltages so there's more than enough voltage which makes regulators run quite warm, sometimes they aren't screwed into the metal cover (which works as a heat sink). I had a model 2 which had the regulators in sockets, don't know if it was the original construction but I guess it was a lot easier to swap them.  

     


    You can hook up 12VDC and 5VDC directly, easiest is to use the legs of the capacitors after the regulators, either from two separate PSUs or a double voltage version like the ones used to externally hook up a harddrive - or even a PC PSU. These need to be stabilized of course, a USB charger is not recommended unless first checking it gives continous stable voltage.

     

    It's interesting work, keep it up. 

     

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    On 1/23/2021 at 12:59 PM, lazzeri said:

      I’ve collecting for the ChF for almost 20 years now, started on late 2001 when I’ve imported my first system out of curiosity. And I immediately fell in love for it. 
     

       For the first 10 years or so I’ve picked whatever I managed but without crazy spendings or active hunts. I’ve managed to grab maybe 17 of the games this way. Later on I’ve focused on the Saba set (love the art!), and that was really easier than I’ve pictured, within 6 months I had it under my belt.

     

       But for the last 5 years or so I’ve decided to hunt down the USA set. The last one (besides checkers) was Whizball, got it CIB for like 80 USD some three years ago. It is insane to see the prices they’re reaching now.

     

       Still missing a Democart 2, and my Democart 1 is loose. But I can live with that. 🙂

     

       Maybe I might focus on white boxes for a while. I do have only like 4 of them...

     

       And I would LOVE to have more Luxor around, I think I only have three of them. 😞

    Started my journey in 1995 after finding the childhood type of machine online, sending USD cash in envelopes to the US. E-mailing everyone (that was not popular) on the University asking to buy - and I actually got a hit - a rental Luxor unit in a SABA carry bag with a couple of carts, that had the alternate BIOS... seems to  be unusual. 

    Yes, the SABA set is much easier, have a complete set with some odd extras, for example missing "SYSTEM" on front labels on some of the early ones and a couple of B/W edge labels in Fairchild original style (plastic on paper). Then there's the plain American version as well as German on #3, such "meaningless" details.   ;-)

     

    White boxes and labels in black/white or "orange/brown" are pretty neat. 

    You should make friends with a Swede... 

    Also check https://www.tradera.com/en/ for items. 

    Some are crazy expensive though, don't know what they have been smoking:

    https://www.tradera.com/en/item/301704/442138051/luxor-video-entertainment-kassett-8-fairchild-channel-f-saba-videoplay-

    https://www.tradera.com/en/item/301704/442138052/luxor-video-entertainment-kassett-2-fairchild-channel-f-saba-videoplay-
    Large set, descent price:
    https://www.tradera.com/en/item/301704/417966875/18-spel-luxor-fairchild-channel-f-

    Unusual single paper manual with this one:

    https://www.tradera.com/en/item/301704/401020358/bowling-luxor-fairchild-svensk-manual

     

     


     

     

     

  13. Posted

    On 1/28/2021 at 4:21 AM, the_crayon_king said:

    So with white as one output and max red/blue as another output (the only two colors I put in) somehow, I get the color green.

    Somehow it is doing something by quickly switching colors to create other colors. I have never seen anything quite like this.

    Haven't read much about it, there's perhaps a luma setting Y and then I and Q chroma signals.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YIQ

     

  17. Posted

    Made a tool to be able to use a previous batch of box prints (I hardly throw anything away, still have the trimerous box prints with sloppy prefolds).

    They were cut wrong and because of that I got a new batch at the time and stored these away. I had some time to "waste" on it and I managed to get it just as perfect as the proper ones.

    Imagine what treasures you find in the back of the cupboards while looking for stuff to sell.


    Now that this box detail is temporarily solved I'll be able to finish up the batch of Multi-Carts I currently have, three more left to be sold.

    Boards are done and tested, just the rest to do...

    Cleaning carts of every little remnant of labels is probably the most boring thing but it's an important detail IMHO, smooth and new-looking is what I'm going for. 

     

    • Like 3

  20. Posted

    On 1/6/2021 at 7:04 PM, HoshiChiri said:

    Like the others, I'm fine with waiting for a complete copy- but since it's been 2 months, I thought I'd check in. Any progress on printing?

    I got what seems to be an auto-reply, but that's at least some life sign. Have had no reply when calling apart from an automated message and no possibility of recording a message. 
    No progress beyond that, but it's better than before. 

    Regarding myself, still alive and no covid-19 sickness (at least not yet).   ;-)

    • Like 3

  25. Posted

    On 12/7/2020 at 11:32 PM, Yosikuma said:

     ask again: to e5frog or to anyone else who can elaborate, where are these screws I would be adjusting to fix the sound/video drifting in my System II?

    Metal towers are shields for the coils inside, the ferrite screw is used for adjustment - do NOT use metal tools, they might be stuck and ferrite is brittle and will crack with too much force. They are usually for hex or flat screwdriver.

     

    The thin, metal, wide threaded screw is for main frequency adjustment. Don't mind the ring. It looks a little different in the Channel F II, image is from Luxor VEC (switch on the left is audio high/low volume). 

    Channel_F_II_composite_video_modificatio

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