e5frog

Links are still possible. eBay auction Nice one, missing 6, 18, 19, 22 and 25 of original game releases. Very reasonable price! Not as alluring

I'm usually running MESS 0.133. I figured out why it was difficult starting the game, my controller-adapter uses a "double Atari-style joystick USB adapter" and I wired it to use second controller F/B/L/R for U/D/CW/CCW but MESS thinks the second Windows controller input is supposed to be used for the second joystick in the emulation even though "Joystick 2" had all movements set to n/a. Fixed by setting controller 2 up to something else. Push down resulted in downwards movement on controller 2 as well, which messed things up for some reason. I'm guessing it's this readController code that doesn't like it, as it will exit the subroutine with downwards movement on left controller in my case. Pushing my controller the "right way" would make it pop into the subroutine quick enough to sense only the push down movement... I think. It's not normal behavior for normal gaming but the code posted in reply #8 would have handled it, it does need a "com" before pop, if you don't want to change anything else in the code. readController: ; see one of the hand controllers is moved clr outs 0 outs 4 ins 4 com ; un-invert port data ni $cf ; mask off twists, since we don't use them bnz readControllerEnd outs 1 ins 1 com ni $cf readControllerEnd: pop Timer doesn't reset and go from $FF anymore (which it did in v9) - good. It does however go ...03,02,01,02 (and loose a life), turns red and changes to 99, turns green and continues. Points are also added correctly (decimal add, as it didn't in v9) - thumbs up.

A crappy of the crappiest SABA VideoPlay 1 cartridge? You can have a fresh one from me if they're so special, probably a complete set.

Nice to see the progress! EDIT: There seems to be some odd things happening with controls, need to kind of "double click" to start from start screen. EDIT2: Timer gets messed up on the first jump at the end, you might be adding score in the timer area. ... or perhaps the timer is supposed to be reset but graphics is "out of bounds", haven't checked the code but decimal adjusted or not? EDIT3: Yup, debugger shows timer in 'O'76 (register 62) resets to $FF instead of $99 where it originally starts. EDIT4: Summing of scores is made hexadecimal at the moment: 88 + 98 = 120 instead of 88 + 98 = 186

LFSR: ; Linear Feedback Shift Register clr as 1 bz doEor lr 0, A ; Save original number in r0 sl 1 ; shift one step left lr 1, A bz noEor ; Do XOR if b7 was 1 lr A, 0 ni %10000000 bz noEor ; BCC functionality doEor: lr A, 1 xi $2b ; Do the XOR thing lr 1, A noEor: br LFSR Seems to work, I check b7 of the original value to determine if there should be a carry or not. XOR value is supposed to be one of these numbers (decimal in parentheses) for a complete 256 number loop. $1d (29), $2b (43), $2d (45), $4d (77), $5f (95), $63 (99), $65 (101), $69 (105), $71 (113), $87 (135), $8d (141), $a9 (169), $c3 (195), $cf (207), $e7 (231), $f5 (245) If you want to experiment you can set DCI $2800 and then ST values to have a look in the memory window of the debugger.

Hmm... nope, "SL 1" resets carry - so it's always 0.

lda seed beq doEor asl beq noEor ;if the input was $80, skip the EOR bcc noEor doEor: eor #$1d noEor: sta seed Something like this perhaps: LFSR: ; Linear Feedback Shift Register clr as 1 ; clr and as has same function as "lda" where flags are also set. "ai number" if you want the same seed bz doEor ; if 0 go to xor function sl 1 ; shift one step left bz noEor ; if it's 0 go to noEor bnc noEor ; Branch if there's no carry (C=0 or branch carry clear in 6502/6510-ish) doEor: xi $1D ; Do the XOR thing noEor: lr 1, A ; Store back value in same register as from the start Haven't tried it, let us know how it works. Only thing I'm not 100% certain about is the bnc, if it's not working use bc instead which is the opposite.

I needed some money for bills so I thought I should give it a try with a rather high price - who knows. Money issues are handled for now though, have forgotten to take it down again - apart from the mentioned bid of $20 (which would have been fine for a plain #4) there has been very little interest, 99 views, 4 watchers and no other offers. As far as I know it's the very earliest copy of the game from the assembly line, I think Sean Riddle dumped these way back and they're the same as the later ones. This one has a very worn label compared to my other two evaluation carts (another #4 and a #5). EDIT: Taking it off the market. EDIT2: @Ashevent, school_girl_in_a_short_dress ? Really?

You could skip the "fix the * coordinate" parts in the drawing routines if you want to speed things up a little. You'll need to compensate all your current coordinates and add 4 to the initial value. Not fixing it in Y should move the screen up 4 pixels - which might be good as it's quite low to avoid TV overscan problems. A smaller readController routine would be this: readController: ; see one of the hand controllers is moved, keep data in A clr outs 0 outs 1 ins 1 pop That only reads right controller, which is a little bit faster - due to port read speed - than the left. It doesn't invert the indata, which means you check for 0 when masking with ni %10000000 for push down controller action. (bz instead of bnz and vice versa) I shouldn't butt in too much, have other programming to finish up. Hooray for me - I got to the top!

You can make sprites any width you want... Did you make it work? If you need to use the subroutine stack function you do loose some registers for that. This may be helpful, I was looking at it the other day: https://codebase64.org/doku.php?id=base:small_fast_8-bit_prng

Dennis have been working on the time line for a long time, I'm guessing about 15 years or so, have a look: http://fndcollectables.com/CHANNEL_F_INFO/U_S_/Time_Line/time_line.html Christmas 1981 seems to be the release date for #26. I recall some carts could only be bought by orderform directly to the company and wasn't sold from any retail store. According to the information it's not surprising the #19 is unusual.

What if you have hollow blocks? The "clear" option when drawing graphics saves some time.

Sorry for not updating, crisis at work - turned out to be dust on a lens... doh. Any payments already received will be on the list as well, but I'm not taking any more prepayments from now on. All parts have been ordered, so it's a couple of weeks before everything has dropped in. Will fill in the list tomorrow, it's past "pi" so I should get some sleep. Back to Killer Heads of Lettuce...

Hey, forgot to mention I need $11 extra for registered shipping. I only include standard shipping in the price. If you want to upgrade I'll refund so you can send $96 instead - unless you WANT to send a separate payment. If standard shipping is fine, you don't need to do anything. Difference is that you can't follow the journey if it's taking an unusually large amount of time for shipping. I have had one lost package in ten years, out of almost 300 shipments. Twice a package seemed to be lost but the tracking information showed a work colleague had signed for it. Decide for yourselves if you want it. Two refunds have been made, one missed the $85 goal and I got $5.05 too little because of PayPal fees and the other one was refunded due to buyer wanting registered shipping added - which is why I'm writing this. All the others hit the mark of $85. If you please share the fees you paid for your payment I can include a better estimate of fees and set a fixed price for that as well and not "force" anyone to use the friends option if they want registered shipping. Thanks, almost at the goal funding...

First payment is in, I'll be off to bed, almost 1:30 AM.

Wow. I guess we're going to do this! So, what needs to be done now is to find and order parts. I'm not very wealthy - which is why I build and sell these - so as usual I'd like to ask for prepayments. People who don't mind waiting for over 4 weeks after payment can pay a smaller price as a compensation. It seems $85 has been a good starting price, let's see who wants it first, it should be enough to get everything together. I'm taking in 10 initial orders, US$85 for Tetris in a designed box - that I may ask you about in the next few weeks, shipping included. I know PayPal doesn't have a "I'll pay the fee" option, which they should so pay with the family and friends option if you want me to get the full amount. You can try and calculate the fee that will be drawn and send that amount - so I get the full payment. It seems to have a lot of variables though, from country to country, pay with credit card or funds on PayPal etc... It's apparently impossible to calculate, one out of about 20 people have succeeded to reach up and a few cents over the mark... Please send US$, swapping currencies costs money. Check that you're not sending SEK. If you're paying as #11, we'll talk about it, as I wrote on Facebook, I could probably use some money for faster shipping. PayPal: [email protected]

How about a Tetris cartridge?

( Latest update May 4th 2021) May the fourth be with you CURRENT PRICE: $122 Incl. standard shipping. Registered shipping is US$11 extra. For effect, the screenshots are modified using MESS screenshots that just have been edited for retro look. All pixels are real. You're paying for one Tetris Videocart, in box, with instruction booklet. PayPal: [email protected] ************************************************************* ************************************************************* Four IMPORTANT details: 1. Make sure you pay in US$ (not automatic SEK by PayPal) 2. Make sure I receive the full amount, add the whole cost of fees to your payment (for most people this is a very difficult task) or use the friends-option. 3. Please make sure I know who's paying and your address, add your alias and/or send me an email about it 4. Made to order, there's waiting time during parts order/construction/assembly. Check this thread for updates. ************************************************************* ************************************************************* Swedish guys (and gals - ha ha, sure...) can pay via banktransfer or Swish as well. (It's a pay via a cell phone service - who uses cash anymore?) Feel free to ask any questions in this thread or to the e-mail address above and I'll answer. Buyers (shipping order): 1. George E. - SHIPPED 2. Ronald P. - SHIPPED 3. Blazing Lazers - SHIPPED 4. cvga - SHIPPED 5. cjherr (reg) - SHIPPED 6. atarirx - SHIPPED 7. masschamber - SHIPPED 8. Jason K. - SHIPPED 9. stupus - SHIPPED A. VectrexRoli (reg) - SHIPPED B. eebuckeye - SHIPPED C. retrogmr - SHIPPED D. lazzeri - SHIPPED E. Sean J (reg) - SHIPPED F. Rick Reynolds - SHIPPED 10. Kelseya 11. HoshiChiri (reg) 12. Geoffrey (reg) 13. Joe (reg) 14. Nathan 15. SkyDivingirl (reg) 16. Alaskaman 17. Stefan (reg) 18. Andrew 19. Rick 1A. Ben ---

Didn't know the was a problem with the table, just suggested to list it differently to make the bits follow the sequential order. I was busy working this weekend so I haven't tried anything yet, checking output for a white screen should be very easy.

Nice to see a fellow Northman here, programming for the F8. Seems you have experience of other types of assembly language and now you're frustrated you can't do the same with this one. "Luckily" I have done most of my assembly programming for the F8 and some for the Commodore 64 and VIC-20 (apart from 6809 and 68000 in college and a little bit of PIC) - so I don't know any better. Regarding timer interrupts, I believe an interrupt only stores PC0 in PC1 and also destroys the accumulator value which may make things difficult. I need to read up on that... as I haven't tried it and I'm not sure MESS/MAME has support for it, but it's not impossible, I know Sean Riddle was involved correcting a few details. 3850 has an INT REQ pin that's only connected to the cartridge port so an external device should be able to to cause an interrupt. The SABA #20 has it hooked up, so it's possible it's used, it should in that case use IN/INS/OUT/OUTS commands to handle the interrupt. But I can't find anything in the raw disassembly, just ports 0, 1, 4 and 5 as usual, no op-code "BC" as it should be. http://channelf.se/veswiki/index.php?title=Disassembly:SABA_Videoplay_20 The internal I/O-ports $0C-$0F handles interrupt and timer on the 3853. To set interrupt address $FF00: LI $FF OUT $C INC OUT $D http://channelf.se/files/channelf/f3852_53.pdf When adding or subtracting to the data counter using the Q-registers (or H-register) are quite handy, there's also the possibility to use a loop and add (or subtract, 2-complemented data) increments Graphics need the color and two coordinates set on the ports before you execute the command to write them, real machines need a delay before next pixel can be sent. It's pretty clear in the VESwiki. You don't have to send all data every time unless it changes, if you draw a green object you can set the color once and the mangle in the coordinates and "make it so" command for all your dots. Regarding MESS, you can download older versions that doesn't use the horrible MAME graphic interface that totally destroyed the joy of MESS. I believe I use MESS 0.133b the most, it doesn't have the MAME-type menus at all. I should perhaps update the development package. Nothing wrong with using a couple of year old emulator for a 43 year old machine. I use v0.187 when recording video, not that it happens that often.

Very nice, well done - it could have a sticker covering the entire surface - or even wrap around the edge and whole bottom part. Unless one feels the 3D print is nice and stylish. Does the smaller version allow it to be inserted up-side-down? Maybe it's equipped with a mercury switch that breaks 5V if it's inserted the wrong way?

Nice, I've got one for Fairchild and three Video Command versions.

I'm planning to attempt a build of the PCB. I'm very impressed by how you handle the electronics here - as it's not something I would have been able to do myself. RGB from a real machine, really cool... If you had written the table as /D C A B you would have gotten visible numbers from 0 to 9...

Yes. Check the gallery on channelf.se

No critique to you, I was merely thinking about the term "hardware emulation", Kevtris makes fantastic equipment. About $500 (or whatever) and a lot less space than having all those machines also a quick and easy way to load up new games, seems like an option for any Channel F gamer (or the other ones). If you don't have the money and even less space, running MESS/MAME on the computer you already have (mine's almost 15 years) is an option. That's my main tool when writing software for retro gaming machines. With a joystick adapter and image on TV it's almost like the real deal apart from experiencing the original hardware. If you want to get hold of an original stick, I have a few. Quickest way would be to install a 9pin DSUB connector in your 4 button controller and plug it in.