Jump to content

alex_79

Members
  • Content Count

    1,470
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

904 Excellent

1 Follower

About alex_79

  • Rank
    Stargunner

Contact / Social Media

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Italy

Recent Profile Visitors

23,189 profile views
  1. Seems like there's no "search" function for non logged in users? What about a place for discussing improvements and ideas for the wiki pages and post or link documentation to be used as reference? I think a club here on AA ("behind the woodgrain"? 😄) would work perfectly for this.
  2. You need to initialize SWCHA, SWACNT, SWCHB and SWBCNT to 0 in the PlusCart menu. Those registers are automatically zeroed by the reset sequence of the 6532, so usually initialization isn't needed unless you need a different behaviour (e.g. for keyboard controllers, atarivox and other peripherals). But when using the "emulation exit" function instead of power cycling the console, the 6532 reset sequence doesn't take place, so there could be issues with the controllers and/or console switches if the rom that was running before set the RIOT ports to output.
  3. New Pluscart owner here! I've received today my DIY kit and it's up and running now! Very easy to assemble, the instructions are very detailed. I successfully connected to my WIFI using the joystick with the on-screen keyboard, and registered to the PlusStore. I modified an original case as per instructions and also did the "hotglue led lens" as suggested by @vitoco a few posts above (thanks for the tip!) Wonderful device! 👍
  4. Yes, you can remove all the 7 "extra" wires if you don't use that function.
  5. The problem is due to the "extra" button functionality of the RGB mod, intended to have an additional button on a modified joystick for remote "RESET" and "SELECT" switch. The way this is implemented interferes with some controllers (e.g. trackballs) and also with games that use the controller ports as output, as is the case with "Track and Field" (the game in fact briefly pulses the I/O pins low on each frame). The Testcart also uses the pins as output (to read the keyboard controllers), that's why you see the spurious "reset" switch presses there. The solution is to disable that functionality of the RGB mod, as suggested in this post: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/243453-atari-2600-trak-ball-games/?do=findComment&comment=4268807
  6. That's something I felt it was needed for quite some time, as there's so much info resulting from the last over two decades of homebrew scene that is hard to find because it is scattered all over the place. I hope many people will participate to add contents. 👍
  7. That's just because it was never officially released in PAL format. The slightly smaller palette isn't a big issue. You find a PAL60 version in the thread linked a few posts above and it looks like this:
  8. Is the problem with any game or just Spider-man? You need to press the fire button and then move the joystick up, left of right while still keeping the button pressed to shoot the web. The manuals for the games can be found on AtariAge (here's the on for spider-man), Atarimania, The Internet Archive and other places.
  9. I had some pictures of one of my Jr board on my PC (PAL-B, board CO21503, rev. F1). I've highlighted the traces going from the luma and Sync TIA pins to the CD4050, and they match J.Sobola's schematic: board (top) bord (bottom) You might be able to fix the mod with minor modifications, by removing all the jumper plugs and soldering short pieces of wire to connect the pins as in this picture. There's still the problem that with the CD4050 removed, the gate in the CPU reset circuit (circled in blue in the schematic) is missing. Since your console is still working without it, I guess it's not strictly necessary, but if it was me I'd follow @DrVenkman suggestion and I would remove the mod board, reinstall the CD4050, and then simply connect the mod using wires to the needed signals (those pullup resistors connected to the TIA pins are perfect for this). Verify that your board matches the one shown here by checking continuity between pins marked with the same colors. If it differs trace it to find the right spots where to pick the signals. Note that I'm not familiar with the UAV board as I never installed one myself, so use these info at your own risk!
  10. Load "Air Sea Battle", press reset to start the game and flip the TV type switch to B&W. The sky will show all 8 luma values in order from black to white. If there are less than 8 shades and/or if they out of order then the luma pins are not conencted correctly. BTW, is the CD4050 still on the board, with the mod pcb mounted on top of it, or has it been removed?
  11. Work perfectly on all my PAL consoles. Thanks for sharing!
  12. Check if a new serial port is detected when you plug the usb cable (you should see a new device, e.g. /dev/ttyUSB0). Also, try running the software as root. If it works that way, it's a permission issue. You need write access to the serial port.
  13. Yes, Jerzy Sobola's schematics are not official, so you should always verify the connections on the actual board you're working on, but they're a great reference noneless. There are different revisions of the schematics, too: I think those posted above are more recent than the ones in the AtariAge site. Also note that official PAL schematics for the 6 switch console can be found in the PAL service manual. Atari_2600_PAL_Service_Manual.pdf Anyway, (many) years ago I did a s-video mod on one of my junior consoles, and later on moved that same mod into a 6-switch (link). In both cases I tapped the signals from the CD4050 and the pinout matched Jerzy Sobola's schematics. Of course it's always best to double check, as there might be different board revisions. If you compare with the youtube video above, then yes, there are hues differences, but the video shows the color of the NTSC game running on a NTSC console. The PAL game on PAL console looks like this: It seems to me that colors are correct (considering a little variance due to the color pot adjustement) and the differences are indeed due to wrong luma connections. I don't know how this specific mod works, but if the LUM and SYNC are connected to a resistor ladder like in the Atari board, then I think swapping sync with one of the luma inputs could still produce a stable picture (the resistor value would be wrong, but the resulting signal might still be within tolerances).
  14. No, that adapter just connects two ranger controllers to provide both paddles in one port (just like standard paddles). There's not electronics inside, just wires.
  15. Is there a single jumpers configuration for use with any 2600 console? No surprise that it doesn't work. I don't know about NTSC versions, but the cd4050 is surely NOT wired the same in PAL 6-switch and PAL jr consoles. The inputs for the lum and sync signals are on different pins, and the remaining 2 inputs are used for different functions: on the 6 switch they buffer the joystick fire buttos, while on the Jr (PAL-B) one is part of the cpu reset circuit, while the other one is connected to the 4.43 Mhz oscillator circuit (but the relative output is unused). There's also a PAL-I jr that uses a different board and the pinout might be different there too. 2600-2600A-2600jr_PAL.pdf I would not power on that console until after tracing the board and fixing the connections, as there's the risk of damaging the mod board and/or the console itself.
×
×
  • Create New...