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alex_79

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Everything posted by alex_79

  1. Couldn't you just print the shell with a matching indentation on the inside?
  2. I edited my previous post, as I got the pins backwards for case 2... It should be correct now, I hope.
  3. You need to additionally check pin 9 of the right port (INPT3). A Savekey/Atarivox has no connection to the paddle lines (pins 5 and 9, that is INPT2 and INPT3 for the right port). So, a few frames after clearing VBLANK D7 you have: 1 - both INPT2 and INPT3 negative (bit 7 set), if you have a set of paddles directly plugged in the right port. 2 - INPT2 positive and INPT3 negative, if you have a QuadTari. 3 - both INPT2 and INPT3 positive, if you have a Savekey/AtariVox directly plugged in the right port. Not relevant for this game, but a standard joystick would fall in case (3). A genesis pad would be a case (1), I think.
  4. Collecting is an hobby that serves no other purpose than satisfy your own interest. Each collector decides his own criteria of inclusion and is free to change them over time. Why would anyone need an "official list" is beyond me. There are as many official lists as the number of collectors out there.
  5. Nice! It turned out quite an addicting game, even when played alone against the AI.
  6. Is pin 5 on each Quadtari controller port connected to +5V (to power a genesis pad)? If so that would explain why the right button of a proline doesn't work: pressing the right button connects pin 6 to +5v, while you want to pull pin 6 low to detect a fire button press. (another effect is that you have one of the 520 ohm resistors always connected between +5v and ground, which dissipates a bit of power) The 7800 in two button mode, with a Quadtari plugged in (no matter what's plugged in the QuadTari itself) will see the right button pressed, because of the pullup resistor on pin 5 inside the QuadTari. Even if you then unplug the QuadTari, the paddle cap inside the console will stay charged and the console will continue to see the button pressed. The cap stays charged even after a power cycle, unless the software specifically discharge it. If it was designed to only test joysticks and not paddles, maybe the utility cart never dumps the caps and therefore keeps seing a two button controller with the right button pressed even after a power cycle. Try running the utility with a pair of paddles. It should identify them as a two button controller with both buttons pressed. What happens if you then unplug them?
  7. Me too. I usually finish in last position in hard mode, rarely somewhere in the middle. But that's fine, the "hard" mode have to stay true to its name.😄 Maybe I'd like it a bit less frequent, but I'm not sure. I need to play a bit more.
  8. Are those wires connected to the upper metal shell of the switches? In that case they're likely a replacement for the adhesive "static strips" meant to discharge static when operating the switches. If so, I'd leave them in place (and wire the power switch in the same way). Much better than Atari adhesive metal foil solution when you need to open the console for maintenance/repairs..
  9. I only played a few rounds of v0.7 so far, but I like the new difficulty settings. Normal and hard modes are challenging against the AI. I tend to do worse with longer race length, as I start to lose concentration and doing mistakes and I cannot catch up. Also the "superboost" arrows are an handicap for me, at least against the AI, as it is way better at catching them than I am.
  10. You can remove me from the draw. I'm a (happy!) Pluscart owner already as I got mine less than two weeks ago, so no need for another one.
  11. I welcome each change. 😀 I need a stronger AI, anyway, as I always win now. I'm using the green car, as I find more convenient to keep a joystick in the left port and use paddles on the right one. Don't know if that makes any difference for the AI skills.
  12. True, but I guess that's the same for the braking sound. Difficult to say which car refers to with 8 players.
  13. It's the braking sound for me. The sound effect itself is fine and would work well on a different kind of racing game, but with this game mechanics (and I guess it gest worse with more players), the result is a series of frequent but very short high pitch noises which get a bit annoying IMO. I'd prefer to simply hear the engine suddenly losing revs rather than a skidding sound when braking. I don't have a QuadTari, so I only tested with two sets of paddles connected directly. They are always correctly detected no matter the position of the pots, allowing to control the first 4 cars.
  14. This made me think that it's been quite a few years since the last AA label contest. I miss those...
  15. I played a bit last evening. The gameplay feels "right" to me already, so I find difficult to suggest any specific change to the parameters. Maybe it's best to post a few variations to compare? The AI seems well balanced too. I played several rounds and I finished the race in all possible positions. I'm using real hardware + CRT, so no input lag in my tests. Maybe you could have (optional, e.g. selected using a difficulty switch) some extra boost inversely proportional to the position, so it's easier to catch up making the race challenging until the end. A "bonus" of some kind might work too (this could be optional as well), like the power boost suggested by @azure. It should be short (single arrow), so it's difficult to catch. I prefer the audio of the previous version, without the brake sound. Autodetection works correctly, I can now control a single car without the QuadTari.
  16. What about refueling? This would involve a new "pit stop" zone on the track. On this zone pressing the button would brake, while releasing it would accelerate (to be able to restart after refueling). Deceleration should be greater than on normal "non boost" zones, and it should be possible to stop the car completely. When the car is stopped it should be refueld. This zone should be short, so that you would miss it if running too fast. Therefore it should be preceded by a long enough "non boost" zone to be able to reduce speed. There's not much room for a fuel gauge, maybe a simple indicator based on colors would suffice. (E.g. green,yellow,red). There are three scanlines without hblanks to the left of each track, before the lower curb that could be used for that.
  17. Yeah, sorry, after re-reading it, I realize my post is quite confusing... With "and/or" I mean "OR" (non-exclusive) And with INPTx "HIGH" or "LOW", I was actually referring to the logic level of the line, so I should really have written "bit 7 of INPTx". So if you're considering the value read from INPTx as a signed byte, replace "HIGH" with "negative" and "LOW" with positive. No mistake, just a brain fart from my part... As you say, if the cap for INPT0 is charged (negative value) after a few frames, then it means that you have a paddle directly plugged in, else you have a Quadtari. No need to check INPT1.
  18. Late reply as I see you already posted a rom with auto-detection in place. I will try the rom later today. According to the description in the other thread, only one line (pin 9, that is INPT1/INPT3) is used as a select line, and it's connected to a small pullup resistor. Pin 5 (INPT0/INPT2) from the Atari is not connected at all. So detection in this case could work like this: - set the DUMPPORTS bit in VBLANK to discharge the caps - wait a little (the caps discharge very quickly, but not instantly. wait one or two scanlines to be sure) - clear DUMPPORTS - wait a few scanlines (just enough to let the caps charged by the small pullup) - read paddles - if INPT0 is HIGH and/or INPT1 is LOW, there's no QuadTari in the left port - if INPT2 is HIGH and/or INPT3 is low, there's no QuadTari in the right port - wait enough time to allow a standard paddle set to max resistance (1 Mohm) to charge the caps (I think this would take a few frames, like 2 or 3) - read paddles again, and use the same conditions as above to check the presence of the quadtari. The reason for checking the inputs twice is to avoid false positives in case of one paddle knob turned to minimum resistance and the other one turned to max. In theory the unused line could be connected to only one port of the QuadTari, so you could only use 2 paddles in total (from two separate sets) with it, so not very useful. And IIRC from the discussion in the other thread, pin 5 on the QuadTari ports is connected to +5V to allow powering a genesis controller.
  19. One of the paddle lines has a pullup resistor, the other one is diconnected, so after you clear VBLANK bit D7, one line will rapidly charge, while the other one will stay low.
  20. Looks good already. I like the engines sounds too. Do you plan to add auto detection so that it will work without a QuadTari too? Or even with "half" of it, that is connected only to one of the ports ("DuoTari"?) I don't have one and currently I control 2 cars at once with each paddle.
  21. If someone doesn't have 4 sets of paddles, Track and Field controllers could be thrown in the mix too. The buttons seem to be far away enough that two people can play using a single controller.
  22. I think that PAL shows washed out colors much more than NTSC (which should look similar to the emulator). In fact PAL has half the vertical color resolution, as the TV blends the color information of two adjacent scanlines (actually, with interlaced video they're not adjacent, as the blending happens on consecutive scanlines of the same field). You can easily see this if you fill an area alternating scanlines between two hues, but using the same luma value. On PAL, you'll get a perfectly solid color, instead of striped. So when displaying the menu, PAL mixes the background and text colors twice: on each frame, because the display is made alternating colors on each scanlines, and also because of the phosphor blending of the interleaved consecutive frames. The Blargg TV effects used in Stella are designed for NTSC and don't emulate this PAL artifact. SECAM is even more complicated, as alternating different colors on subsequent scanlines produce a totally different hue.
  23. 😄 I know... I'm just not familiar with the wiki/tiki syntax yet and I didn't want to mess up the front page.
  24. alex_79

    RetroN 77

    No, the R77 is a computer running the Stella emulator.
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