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Everything posted by alex_79
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It's worse, as the image is slightly flickering. Since it doesn't take advantage of the extra resolution allowed by interlacing, the flicker isn't so bad (every pixel is at least 2 scanlines high, so at least a part of it is shown on every field), but for the same reason, there's no real point in interlacing in this case...
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I tried it again and actually the original IS interlaced on my TV, even if the timing is off-spec: This is a picture of the PAL60 hack from the link posted earlier, which had scanline count and VSYNC timing adjusted to have an atari-standard progressive 262 line signal. I turned down brightness to make scanlines more evident on camera: This is a picture of the original NTSC version on the same TV with same settings (wrong colors, because the console and TV are PAL). Note that there aren't visible gaps between scanlines, because every other frame is shifted half scanline down. You can see a slight flicker by looking close at the screen, but obviously that doesn't show on camera. The TV I'm using is quite tolerant regarding the timing of VSYNC to generate an interlaced signal. But older sets (like a 10" B&W one I have) are much more picky. So results with Tapper might vary depending on the TV set. (The uneven line count in different fields, for example, cause the spacing between scanlines to be different in that old TV, so that alignment between the fields isn't constant from top to bottom of the screen) A while ago I did some experiments on the subject, using different TV sets and with a logic analyzer connected to the TIA outputs to monitor the exact timing of the SYNC signals depending on the cycle the register are strobed. I quickly lost interest, but maybe I'll take a look again and post the results in a new thread.
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I remember having issues (PAL color loss) with Tapper when trying the pal60 Hack by Omegamatrix. I think the original programmer tried to generate an interlaced display, but the timing was wrong. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/193459-pal60-roms/page-6?do=findComment&comment=2872128
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And this: http://atariage.com/forums/blog/148/entry-11104-lets-make-a-game/
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Have you pressed RESET (F2) to start the game? Also, you're using a quite old version of Stella, try downloading the latest one: http://stella.sourceforge.net/downloads.php The garbled text is normal, it is mentioned in the first post:
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The most evident fix is the collision detection with the wells: in the original version ET falls whenever a single pixel of the character overlaps a single pixel of the well, which is a bit awkward. It seems more natural if he falls only when his feet are on the well. More info here: http://www.neocomputer.org/projects/et/
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Just ensure you don't have the French version, because, according to the manual, in that case the scart output is rgb only, no composite. Those SCART to rca/s-video adapters only directly connect the scart pins to the corresponding rca and/or minidin ones. There's not circuitry doing signal conversion inside them, just wires. If the device outputs composite through scart (it can also output both RGB and composite at the same time), then you will have composite on the yellow rca connector, but you won't have s-video out in the mini-din one (you'll only have composite signal on the luma pin). If the device outputs s-video through scart (rarely used as it wasn't part of the original standard, and mutually exclusive with both composite and RGB), you'll have s-video on the mini-din but not composite on the yellow rca (just luma). If (like the French version of the console) the device outputs only RGB, you won't get no composite nor s-video, as the composite pin will only carry the "sync" signal. excerpt from the manual: The full manual is here: http://www.cpcwiki.eu/imgs/b/be/GX4000_User_Instructions.pdf
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Is this T-Handle cart on german ebay real?
alex_79 replied to karokoenig's topic in AtariBoxed.com Rarity Database
I don't know much about rarity and label variations (actually, anything at all), but the picture on the auction surely looks like an home print label: it looks like it has been cut using scissors (especially the corners which are quite irregular and each with a different radius) and while the label is a bit blurred and smeared, the texture of the plastic shell is on focus and clearly visible. Here's the picture as a reference (as the ebay link will stop working after a while) and some details of the corners and side edge only: -
Emulation isn't 100% accurate, but it's accurate enough most of the time, at least for older 8 and 16 bit consoles. Dice and the snes games in that article are corner cases: most games play well enough in emulation on modern hardware and emulators keep improving accuracy as performance of PCs improves. In the meantime, patches and workarounds can be implemented to cover corner cases where a cycle accurate emulation would be too slow on current hardware so that you can still experience the games (which is what really matters for most people). I'm mostly interested in the Atari 2600, and I keep some CRTs around so that I can play on real hardware (with a/v mod). That's the best way to experience old consoles, no questions about that, but I can totally see the convenience of using emulation. I don't consider HD TVs a nonsense. They offer a far superior experience when watching movies and TV shows than an old SD analog set. My only regret about them is the fast obsolescence and lower build quality, but that applies to almost everything produced today... On the other hand, I think that connecting an old videogame console to an HD TV (with or without a dedicated upscaler or HD video mod) is an abomination to the Lord (of retrogaming ) and that's another point in favour of emulation: With usb controller adapters and CRT filters, the experience of playing in emulation on modern HD TVs is really close to real hardware. The picture can be tweaked to be quite "right" without looking like a flat bunch of square tiles and I'm sure that more accurate CRT simulation will be developed so that will also get closer to recreate some effects like phosphor persintence that is an important part of the look of old games (especially early ones with bright colored sprites on mostly black background, and whenever flicker is used). Lightguns for PC do exist so you can experience those games as well, and that's not possible with real hardware connected to a digital TV/Monitor. And sitting on the couch playing games on a 50+ inches display is great fun and something that cannot be achieved on CRT, so emulation can even be better than real hardware in some ways...
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That's a really clear and yet concise explanation. It should be pinned in the 2600 forum.
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True. I use it from time to time because of that feature alone. I think there are plans to add that to stella too, it's just not on top of the TODO list.
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Retroemulation? Would you prefer running old emulators on original '90s PC hardware or in a virtual machine?
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The RCA Studio II did that as well: http://www.old-computers.com/magazine/view.asp?r=1&a=14
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That's strange because, as far as I know, the Grundig Super Play doesn't have a power supply at all! The unit is a version of the Interton VC4000 which connected by means of a proprietary plug (similar to a game cartridge) to some Grundig TVs of the era. The connector allowed to send an RGB video signal for best video quality and also provided power to the console from the TV. It is possible to mod such a console by replacing the special plug with a SCART plus an external 12V DC power supply. (see this post: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/224893-interton-vc-4000/page-2?do=findComment&comment=3496209) Standard Interton VC4000, on the other hand, used a dual voltage power supply which outputs 15V AC and 8V AC and uses a proprietary 4 pin connector. So my suggestion is to ask the seller to take some good pictures of the back of the console (where the connector are located) to see if it's indeed a Grundig Super Play that has been modified (easy to find a replacement power supply) or a VC4000 with the top case of a Grundig Super Play (in which case, you need some technical skills to either build a compatible power supply or mod the console power circuitry to take a more common type of power supply that you can find on the market)
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A quick an dirty hack inspired by this post in the ColecoVision forum. Couldn't fit the full "Budweiser" logo in 32 pixels only, so went with the shorter "Bud" one. Cheers! Based on rough disassembly posted by Omegamatrix with his PAL60 hack. Tapper_Bud_logo_hack_NTSC.bin Tapper_Bud_logo_hack_PAL60.bin tapper_hack.asm
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Improvement in the new core: Old stella versions had a small graphical glitch in "Tapper" (circled in yellow in the picture) Now it's fine with the new core (and in Stellerator too)
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Odyssey^2 Not Working: Bad System or Bad Power Supply?
alex_79 replied to Tempest's topic in Odyssey 2 / Videopac
The power supply section of an Odissey2 only consists in a bridge rectifier, 2 caps (of which the big 4700uF electrolytic one is rated 25V, according to the service manual) and a 7805. I think it should accept quite a wide range of voltages, both AC and DC, without issues. http://www.the-nextlevel.com/odyssey2/faq/essentials/#12 -
Yeah, not everyone has the ability and technical knowledge to dump a game by himself, so often they have to send the cartridge to someone else to obtain the rom. And as Thomas said, the rom is also sometimes shared with trusted people for review, or for analyzing the code. I'm quite confident that this particular proto is safe.
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You might find interesting Henry Will's notebooks mentioned here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/247186-library-of-technical-documents-jwda-henry-will-iv/ They're the files named "Wickstead notebook ..." on the download page. Sample page: Note that downloads from the site seem to have some problems. You might need to retry several times.
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Framemeister production drawing to a close.
alex_79 replied to keepdreamin's topic in Classic Console Discussion
That analogy doesn't make sense. If someone asks "how can I connect my atari 2600 to a 4k TV" I'm inclined to comment "You know, that's a REALLY bad idea in my opinion, why do you want to do that?" and describe the disadvantages of that solution and possible alternatives that include CRTs and emulation. He doesn't have to agree with me, and he might decide to just ignore my comment. Or he can reply why he thinks that my solution is a bad idea. Or simply doesn't fits his needs. You assume that anyone asking such a question is already aware of every aspect of it and their alternatives. I'm convinced, by reading posts on that argument on various forums, that it's not the case actually. And even if the original poster knows about them, people who recently rediscovered or become intersted in retroconsole and that are reading that thread might not know about that stuff, so it doesn't hurt to repeat things. It's surely not the same thing as suggesting to use a waffle iron, don't you think? Even if suggesting to use a CRT it's not a direct answer to the original question, it might be relevant. It depends really on the specific case. Or are you saying that no-one should be allowed to post other than praises if he wants to partecipate to a thread? But as I stated previously, that's not the point. I'm criticizing your reactions. Even if someone's post is "completely" off-topic (not the case here), replying in a rude way always makes you the one at fault. Ok, I stop hijacking this thread, I promise! -
Since the screenshots on Atariprotos are from an emulator, the original game has been already dumped and so it shouldn't be any risk of losing it forever even if bitrotting will eventually destroy the physical copy. The historical preservation already happened, even if the rom has not been released publicy. The recreation of the game doesn't affect that. It's not like if someone is secretly coding a new version of the game with the intention of passing it for the original. It's clearly stated that it's a recreation and wip versions are being posted too. We will always be able to distinguish the new one from the original proto.
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Homebrew on Wii and other thoughts and questions
alex_79 replied to toptenmaterial's topic in Emulation
If the TV has lag, then it is the same for all games. But you'll notice it more in games where precise timing is required for the gameplay. -
Framemeister production drawing to a close.
alex_79 replied to keepdreamin's topic in Classic Console Discussion
I agree, and that applies to everyone supporting a position in a discussion about any subject. But even if someone affirms that his way is "the only way" and doesn't add "in my opinion" in every sentence, that doesn't change the fact the no-one is holder of universal thruth (and holding "universal thruth" about videogames wouldn't be much of a big thing in the first place...) But I didn't see anything in this thread that justifies overreacting in that way. It seems to me that someone just decided in advance that whoever doesn't agree with him is an "preachy elitist prick". No point in discussing anything if you don't want to hear anything different from your opinion. And, thanks to the internet, you don't have to. Anyone can create a "Framemeister Church" forum, specify in the rules that mentioning "CRT" will cause immediate ban from the site, and live happily. In a public retrogaming forum, on the other hand, CTRs is a subject that will inevitably brought up almost every time there's a discussion about displays, TVs, upscalers and such. Displays and controllers are a fundamental aspect in videogames, and something retrogaming enthusiasts spend lots of time and money to make the "perfect" (according to their tastes, of course) so they will always generate animated discussions. Live with it. And try to keep the discussion civil. -
Framemeister production drawing to a close.
alex_79 replied to keepdreamin's topic in Classic Console Discussion
I think you overreacted. Some of the reply to this topic were just people saying they were sorry the product will be phased out without adding anything to the subject. Why are those more relevant than someone saying that he doesn't care about it, and motivating that by the fact he prefer CRT TVs? It's not that he suggested to buy a CRT as a solution for the discontinuation of the framemeister. He just expressed his opinion about it. You could have just ignored the post, or explained why you disagree in a civil manner. And of course when talking about scalers in a retrogaming forum it's very likely that the discussion will also move to CRTs and/or emulation. It comes natural analyzing pros and cons of scalers and digital TVs and therefore talking about alternatives. Just like when people ask questions about a good CRT for retrogaming, there's always someone who will suggest to consider an upscaler or the emulation route. What's wrong with it?