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alex_79

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Everything posted by alex_79

  1. Yes, the juniors were released in Europe before 1986. I'm from Italy and I received my short rainbow junior for christmas 1985. It's made in Ireland and came in a small box with a proline joystick. The manual and the console says "Atari, Inc.", while the box has an "Atari Corp." copyright on it. Inside the console there's a sticker on the rf shielding which says "23 may 1984" and the Tia and Riot chips are socketed. The board is a "revision B". There were also older versions that came in a bigger box with 2 joysticks (proline) and a game packed in. They appear sometimes on ebay. these old threads confirm this: - Atari 2600 Jr. must have been released already in 1983 in Eu - 2600 Juniors from Atari Inc. - 2600 Junior
  2. alex_79

    Got it !

    I found these on ebay: H.E.R.O. River Raid
  3. alex_79

    Got it !

    I agree. Another odd thing is that older PAL Activision titles (boxing, tennis, fishing derby) which have few colors without shades and a b&w palette aren't adjusted for SECAM. It would be interesting to know how those SECAM games look on a PAL console, since I've read somewhere in the forum that the "juniors" sold in France were PAL only and I know they were available in Europe in 1984 (the copyright of the games in the other thread is 1983/1984).
  4. alex_79

    Got it !

    I took it as a joke but just have a look here : PAL / SECAM 2600 Games I have a GORF cart from CBS with french label which says "SYSTEME TV SECAM EXCLUSIVEMENT", but it's only a label variation, since the colors on my PAL console are the same ones I get on emulators with the PAL rom. (This cart is actually the first game I received in Christmas 1985 together with my console, so they were available also in north Italy, where I live) I think that most of "SECAM" games were only label variation of their PAL counterparts, but at least Activision released some "real" Secam games. Here there is an old topic with some screenshots from "H.E.R.O", "Keystone Kapers" and "Decathlon" (see post #15). There's also a picture of the carts with an "S" sticker on them. These pictures show how the PAL roms should appear on a SECAM console (I used z26 with "-b" and "-c2" flags):
  5. alex_79

    Got it !

    Maybe you have a non working "reset" switch on your console. The other games you mentioned can be started with the joystick fire button, while combat require the reset switch to be pressed. Try if you can start a new game in Centipede or Moon Patrol by only pressing that switch.
  6. alex_79

    Got it !

    Sorry, I'm not an expert, but I think that any paint for plastic model-kit will do the job. I used an acrylic touch pencil I bought in a bricolage shop (I'm not good using paintbrush). I tried on a broken joystick first and since the result was good I detailed all my faded joysticks and the 2 woodgrain consoles I own. It's easy to use and it has a nice glossy effect, but it's a bit too bright in my opinion.
  7. alex_79

    Got it !

    I usually open them so I can remove the dust from the inside, spray the switches, the cartridge port and all the connectors with a contact cleaner, and clean the case more easily (I use a wet microfiber cloth, without detergents). I also remove the oxid on the metal switches of old models using a dremmel tool with a felt wheel and polishing compound. On the woodgrain consoles I retouch the orange details (border of the switch-panel and joystick's ring) which usually are faded away. Here is the last "light sixer" I've bought, before and after the "cure" .
  8. I think a PAL console is the best choice. A SECAM 2600 uses PAL software, but only shows 8 colors (see the tia color charts) and only few early PAL games were programmed to have decent colors on SECAM. Moreover the Color/B&W switch on SECAM actually turn the colors off in B&W position, while on PAL and NTSC consoles the behaviour of that switch is determined by the software. Late games used it for other functions and some of them (Secret Quest, for example) cannot be played correctly on a secam console. All the "junior" consoles sold in France should be PAL, while older models were SECAM. You could buy a 7800 console instead: they are 2600-compatible and the French version has RGB output (Peritel cable) instead of the rf one.
  9. I received my Atari for Christmas 1985, with "Gorf" and "Mario Bros". I played "Gorf" first.
  10. You could cut the connector and replace it with an european one, or use a cable from an other atari unit. All the models use the same rca plug for the rf cable, but in the older models the connector is inside the case (you have to open the console), while in the junior it's on the back of the unit. Aniway a NTSC console is not compatible with a PAL TV, so you'll probably get only a black&white image. Even multistandard TV usually accept a NTSC signal only through composite or s-video input and not through antenna. You probably need to mod your unit for AV output.
  11. These are the two oscillators on my PAL light sixer board. I hope this can help you. 3546.894 KHz (Y200) 4433.618 KC (Y201)
  12. Some Pal units were also produced in Ireland. Both my first console (a "junior" I received for christmas 1985) and a "vader" I recently bought on ebay says "MANUFACTURED FOR ATARI, INC., BY ATARI IRELAND, LTD., IN IRELAND."
  13. Yes, that one will allow you to keep the joystick plugged together with the trackball.
  14. The Atari joystick (and then the trackball in JS mode, I think) uses normally-open contacts for directions and fire button, so connecting them with a simple Y-cable should be fine. You'll need 2 male db9 and 1 female db9 connector, some cables and a soldering iron. Simply connect each pin on the male connectors to the corresponding pin on the female one (pin "1" on both male db9 connectors must be connected to the pin "1" of the female one, and so on with pin 2,3 etc.)). Pin 5,7 and 9 are not used by the joystick, but if you connect them you can use the adaptor also to keep both paddles and joystick plugged in the same port without swapping them when you change the game. Since the paddle buttons act like the left and right joystick directions, they can also be useful in some "joystick-only" game: In Midnight Magic, for example, you can use them to control the flippers, but you need the joystick to launch the ball (A "Track&Field" controller can be used instead of the paddles too). Look at the schematics in the Atariage Archive for further details about controller pinouts. ------ Ciao! Alessandro
  15. The B&W switch is used also in Solaris (1986), but the difference is hard to see: in the planet surface screen the switch changes the sky color from blue to black and the mountains from black to gray.
  16. The problem is a really poor NTSC-to-PAL conversion. I don't have that game, but I just tried the PAL rom with z26 emulator. The palette wasn't converted between the 2 TV formats, so the colors are all messed up (and the yellow, dark-green and brown of the NTSC version all are decoded as gray on PAL machines, according to the TIA Color Charts). Moreover, the scanlines count fluctuates during the game: 311 at the beginning, 312 for a moment when you press the button and 333 scanlines when stage 1 starts! PAL TV normally displays balck&white if there is an odd number of lines (this is why you can only see the red word "STAGE" when you press the button, while there are 312 lines). Your Multistandard TV is smart enough to handle this non-standard PAL signal and can display the colors. NTSC COLORS: PAL COLORS: P.S. Sorry for my bad english, I hope it's understandable.
  17. I think you need an exagonal tool to turn the inside part of the inductor. My experience in electronics is very limited, but you may find some details in the "hardware" section of the forum about tuning the inductor.
  18. The variable inductor is the red plastic thing. It's mounted horizontally, so you should insert the tool for adjust it from the side.
  19. I took some pics of my PAL jr to show the adjustable choke. I hope this can be useful. hole in the shielding: adjustable inductor (L8): Alessandro
  20. Great job! The game is really amazing and I'll definitely buy it. I tried the last revision and found a bug: there is something wrong with the spiceware logo at the bottom of the menu screen. It seems shifted up one line (compared to old revisions) and there is some garbage in the last line of the frame. Alessandro
  21. I like the new colors and the light effect of fireball on the purple shield and crown. I noticed other cool changes too: - Nathan Strum's dragon design on the top right over the tower - lighting on the sky over the other tower - a little crown on the "i" of "Medieval" in the title instead of the dot - bigger and different signature - different copyright text on the bottom Very nice work! Alessandro
  22. The 4050 buffer was removed in 4-switch models (woody and vader), but was restored in the junior design. Schematics for pal jr. are on Atariage archive, while here you can find schematics for NTSC version.
  23. Great label! It's only a slight detail, but It would be nice changing the colors of the top players to match those of the definitive version of the game. Alessandro
  24. I haven't the equipment (nor the skills) to test that circuit and I fear I can damage something. I want to learn more about electronics and practise with soldering iron before trying again. I've set pin 10 voltage to 4.25 V as you suggested and I reassembled the console for now. Thank you very much for your help.
  25. I adjusted the pot on the "good" console to match the 4.25 Volts between pin 1 and 10, and the colors are correct. (I used z26 emulator with the same game for comparison). On the broken one, tuning the pot varies the voltage from ~ 0.0 to ~ 7.9 V, without jitter, but the image remains B&W throughout that range.
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