Jump to content

alex_79

Members
  • Content Count

    1,596
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by alex_79

  1. Yes, that one will allow you to keep the joystick plugged together with the trackball.
  2. The Atari joystick (and then the trackball in JS mode, I think) uses normally-open contacts for directions and fire button, so connecting them with a simple Y-cable should be fine. You'll need 2 male db9 and 1 female db9 connector, some cables and a soldering iron. Simply connect each pin on the male connectors to the corresponding pin on the female one (pin "1" on both male db9 connectors must be connected to the pin "1" of the female one, and so on with pin 2,3 etc.)). Pin 5,7 and 9 are not used by the joystick, but if you connect them you can use the adaptor also to keep both paddles and joystick plugged in the same port without swapping them when you change the game. Since the paddle buttons act like the left and right joystick directions, they can also be useful in some "joystick-only" game: In Midnight Magic, for example, you can use them to control the flippers, but you need the joystick to launch the ball (A "Track&Field" controller can be used instead of the paddles too). Look at the schematics in the Atariage Archive for further details about controller pinouts. ------ Ciao! Alessandro
  3. The B&W switch is used also in Solaris (1986), but the difference is hard to see: in the planet surface screen the switch changes the sky color from blue to black and the mountains from black to gray.
  4. The problem is a really poor NTSC-to-PAL conversion. I don't have that game, but I just tried the PAL rom with z26 emulator. The palette wasn't converted between the 2 TV formats, so the colors are all messed up (and the yellow, dark-green and brown of the NTSC version all are decoded as gray on PAL machines, according to the TIA Color Charts). Moreover, the scanlines count fluctuates during the game: 311 at the beginning, 312 for a moment when you press the button and 333 scanlines when stage 1 starts! PAL TV normally displays balck&white if there is an odd number of lines (this is why you can only see the red word "STAGE" when you press the button, while there are 312 lines). Your Multistandard TV is smart enough to handle this non-standard PAL signal and can display the colors. NTSC COLORS: PAL COLORS: P.S. Sorry for my bad english, I hope it's understandable.
  5. I think you need an exagonal tool to turn the inside part of the inductor. My experience in electronics is very limited, but you may find some details in the "hardware" section of the forum about tuning the inductor.
  6. The variable inductor is the red plastic thing. It's mounted horizontally, so you should insert the tool for adjust it from the side.
  7. I took some pics of my PAL jr to show the adjustable choke. I hope this can be useful. hole in the shielding: adjustable inductor (L8): Alessandro
  8. Great job! The game is really amazing and I'll definitely buy it. I tried the last revision and found a bug: there is something wrong with the spiceware logo at the bottom of the menu screen. It seems shifted up one line (compared to old revisions) and there is some garbage in the last line of the frame. Alessandro
  9. I like the new colors and the light effect of fireball on the purple shield and crown. I noticed other cool changes too: - Nathan Strum's dragon design on the top right over the tower - lighting on the sky over the other tower - a little crown on the "i" of "Medieval" in the title instead of the dot - bigger and different signature - different copyright text on the bottom Very nice work! Alessandro
  10. The 4050 buffer was removed in 4-switch models (woody and vader), but was restored in the junior design. Schematics for pal jr. are on Atariage archive, while here you can find schematics for NTSC version.
  11. Great label! It's only a slight detail, but It would be nice changing the colors of the top players to match those of the definitive version of the game. Alessandro
  12. I haven't the equipment (nor the skills) to test that circuit and I fear I can damage something. I want to learn more about electronics and practise with soldering iron before trying again. I've set pin 10 voltage to 4.25 V as you suggested and I reassembled the console for now. Thank you very much for your help.
  13. I adjusted the pot on the "good" console to match the 4.25 Volts between pin 1 and 10, and the colors are correct. (I used z26 emulator with the same game for comparison). On the broken one, tuning the pot varies the voltage from ~ 0.0 to ~ 7.9 V, without jitter, but the image remains B&W throughout that range.
  14. I don't know if the console is from UK, the label on the bottom says "MODEL NO. CX-2600 P" but there are no indications like "pal-B" or "pal-I". Anyway, I mounted the board with the switches (see pic) on the functioning console and it gives a perfect color image. The rf-modulator is on that board, together with the voltage-regolator and the channel-select switch, so i presume all these components are ok and the console is compatible with my TV set. At the moment, I've very scarce experience in soldering and electronics in general, so I'm not able to perform an A/V mod on my Atari (I'd like to do it in the future, however).
  15. Ciao! I need help with a 6 switch Atari 2600 I've bought on ebay. I'm from Italy and the console is a PAL unit. The problem is that there's no color on the TV screen. I've another light sixer that works perfectly and I tried swapping components between the two units: The TIA chip is ok (swapping the chips still produce no color image on the "bad" unit, while the other works correctly) I've also swapped the board with the switches between the units and nothing changed, so I think the problem is on the board with the the TIA, RIOT and 6507 chips on it. Adjusting the pot for color regolation while the console is on doesn't seem to have any effect. I've also cleaned it with a contact cleaner and I tested with a multimeter (It ranges from 0 to about 470 K-Ohms; on the functioning unit the range is about 0-410 K-Ohms). I also tried different rf cables and power supply from other functioning atari units, but nothing changed. Thanks in advance for any suggestion (and sorry for my bad english!) Ciao! Alessandro.
×
×
  • Create New...