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Everything posted by oracle_jedi

  1. Bought a 520ST in 1987 with an SF354 disk drive, but save for a handful of great games, was always underwhelmed by it. Got more into programming and wanted to run Turbo Pascal and Turbo C. Used PC Ditto and was about to buy a hardware emulator when I had the epiphany; "If I am trying so hard to make the ST think its a PC, sell the ST and buy a PC". I did that in 1989 or 1990. I still use my 8-bit Ataris. I have never missed the ST.
  2. If you make a run of these i'd be interested in buying two for when I get around to adding VBXEs to my 1200XLs.
  3. I kept the lower RF shield in place as I like the extra weight it adds to the unit. I think I manage to shift that out of position so it bridged something it shouldn't have. Now the unit is running again, and Yoomp detects stereo - but I only have sound on one channel. Swapped POKEYs and swapped the Dupont connector on the Lotharek board to test all connections downstream of the mod board. Everything is fine but I am getting nothing from the right channel. Hope you have more luck than me with this!
  4. Thanks guys. I pulled the unit open and as JoSch stated, they are 250V 5A fuses - even in the adaptor designed for the U.S. market. I tried mounting a panel mount fuse to the unit but there isn't enough room to do it, so I got an inline fuse holder from Radio Shack and some fuses, and the power supplies are running again.
  5. Cool thanks! I will have to replace the 24pin seat in the 2nd ROM socket with a 28-pin one. Do I need to move any of the jumpers or are they good to go? Right now I have J11/J12/J13 jumpered.
  6. Does anyone know what rating the fuse in the 9VAC power supply is? While trying to install a stereo mod in my 1200XL today, I managed to do something dumb, and blew the fuses on 2 power supplies.
  7. How did you guys get the Stereo board to fit? I tried to mount one in a 1200XL today that has an Ultimate 1MB in it, and found that the keyboard would not go back on. I removed one of the two risers on the Stereo board, and then found it did not have enough clearance next to the ROM socket.
  8. Loved the game on the ST back in the day, wondering if the Amiga version has NTSC/PAL timing issues, and does it run ok on NTSC Amigas?
  9. In fact, the original Llamasoft release in the U.K. in 1982 was on tape cassette, and ran on an un-expanded VIC-20. The program appears to be exactly 3583 bytes, and was so tight with the VIC20's 5K memory that Jeff Minter noted in the liner notes of "Viva Vic": "I got so tight on memory that I couldn't even put my full name on the title page; I had to make do with my initials 'JCM' instead." When HES licensed the title and released it in the U.S. the code was converted to run as a 4K ROM cartridge, the extra space allowing Minter to add his full name to the title page, the "© 1982 H.E.S.", the message "PRESS FIRE TO BEGIN" and some graphical highlight effects. In the original Llamasoft release the simple message "©1982JCM" appears.
  10. "Of course all these games are awesome and deserve full boxed and manual releases..." No not really. Games like Blacklamp and R-Type remind me of why I got rid of my ST back in 1989 and traded it for a PC/286. Not a reflection of the conversion-to-Jag work, but the ST struggled with some games and some of the developers were not as skilled as others. Then again IK+ and Bubble Bobble remind me of why I spent so many hours playing games on the ST. Love those and would pay to own an official release. I could never find an executable of Virus for the ST. I know it is on the list but there wasn't a link when I looked. I loved that game. Was the conversion finished for the Jag? And Frontier; Elite II was my all time favorite ST game. I have an early conversion but it only seems to run the intro and not much else. I would definitely pay $$$ for a finished cart of this for the Jag with game-save functionality.
  11. In the end I disabled GWX to stop the nagware, but I am told the free upgrade to Windows 10 ends soon. Can anyone confirm if Atarimax's SIO2USB and APE software works ok under Windows 10?
  12. My entry for the Ass-Rigger Award. When the pins are bent flat there is actually enough room under the keyboard for this hack to work. I insulated the contacts in electrical tape to prevent any shorts against the resistors that lie immediately behind the joystick ports. The keyboard works best now if you press on the right, but that's still better than no spacebar at all.
  13. oracle_jedi

    Atari 800 Keyboard Fix

    An Atari 800 purchased for $15 from Craiglist and found to have the usual defective space bar. After trying to re-solder the original leaf contacts, and failing, I opted for a more brute force approach.
  14. From the album: Atari 800 Keyboard Fix

    Turns out this approach allows for some pretty frantic Defender or Dropzone
  15. Note: Above BOM should have read: 1 x Socketed EPROM board (for testing a good burn) = $20 20 x "JAG27C160 27C160 EPROM 42 PIN" = $140 1 x "JAGUAR CARTRIDGE BOARDS DEAD GAME 10 PCB 10.00 USED" = $10 1 x "JAGSHE1 Jaguar 10 each Cartridge case/shell 30.00 Pulls" = $30
  16. Great advice, and some new links I didn't know about. Since we are talking about Skunkboards and burning games to CD, let's also include a link to Rayik's outstanding article on burning your own cartridge EPROMs: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/235779-create-and-burn-eproms-for-standard-jaguar-2-chip-cartridges/ I went down this route due to the price, scarcity and lock-out issues of the Skunkboard. My costs were something like this: EPROM Programmer with adapters for 27C160 EPROMs - $149 I bought mine from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/PRG-113-GQ-universal-programmer-Adapter/dp/B011HVON3A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00&linkCode=ll1&tag=atariage&linkId=b1f2e4fad1135ab7b95d5e7ae349a57e 1 x Socketed EPROM board (for testing a good burn) = $20 20 x "JAGEP2 JAGUAR EPROM CARTRIDGES 2X16MEG 20.00 W/SOCKETS" = $140 1 x "JAGUAR CARTRIDGE BOARDS DEAD GAME 10 PCB 10.00 USED" = $10 ** 1 x "JAGSHE1 Jaguar 10 each Cartridge case/shell 30.00 Pulls" = $30 I got these from B&C Computervisions: http://www.myatari.com/atarijag.txt ** - these are ten-packs of defective game boards. They include the bypass caps and a 93C46 SRAM which is the right chip for most games. I also ended up buying a heat gun from Harbor Freight to rapidly de-solder the existing ROMs which I can now do in about five minutes per board. Much faster than solder-pulting 84 separate through-hole pins. B&C also sells bare boards that need the capacitors and the SRAM added, and I think work out at about $9 each. So for about $350 plus assorted shipping costs, I was able to manufacture ten of my own carts to play games that are no longer available for sale, by-passing the absurdity of Ebay price gouging. Of course you will also need a soldering iron to be able to mount EPROMs to the non-socketed boards. To echo Sauron's comments from earlier - please do not use this approach to create pirates of games still sold by the creators or vendors such as AtariAge, Best Electronics or B&C. The idea is to allow us to play out-of-print/stock games without having to skip rent, not to kill off the few remaining supporters of the Jag community we have left. Also remember that Cyrano Jones has made it clear he does not want any of the ST ports being sold this way. So make them for yourself, but don't sell them on. For newbies, note I had never used an EPROM programmer before I attempted any of this, but Rayik's article is very detailed and walks you through this step by step. Of course after I did this, I managed to acquire a Skunkboard at a high, but not insane price. However note that the Skunkboard does not allow game-saves, so for games like Rayman, having the game on a physical cartridge is essential for clumsy players like me to make any headway in the game. Thanks again to TravisTouchdown for some great advice.
  17. I used this latest updater and the 2016/04 Incognito Firmware Package from http://atari8.co.uk/firmware/incognito to update my Incognito on an NTSC 800. The XL self-test no longer executes the sound test correctly. Is that expected behaviour or did I miss a step? This is my first time trying to flash the Incognito using the uflash tool.
  18. My memory is Dropzone taking something like 40 minutes to load off tape. Maybe I am remembering that wrong, but I was not sorry to see computer data tapes go. The audio track playing while "European Countries and Capitals" loaded was a cool feature, but not enough to overcome the tedium of long load times, or the morale crushing "BOOT ERROR" appearing after waiting thirty or so minutes for a game to load.
  19. I sold the following two units: 83S DA 020878 073 83S DA 79889 143 I also sold one that was never registered here: 83S DA 013257 133 I am now down to just 4 1200XLs - no longer a high roller!
  20. Wow. Really beautiful! Congrats on completing the set! I remember seeing many of those titles for sale in Toys R'Us back around 1991, and thinking "well I already have those on disk... so I will save my money and buy games like Hawkquest instead". Regret that decision now, just like I regret not picking up Rayman and Tempest 2000 for the Jag when they were on close out.
  21. NTSC Model M Jag. Flashed the 0421-1847 ROM to a Rev 3 Skunkboard this morning. More Kombateroids testing. Test 1 - Game options page appears, start game, the text "A View to a Kill" was garbled. Game unresponsive to controls. Shortly after crashed (black screen/no sound). Test 2 - Game started ok, but controls unresponsive. Test 3 - Game played ok until combined scores equaled 25 and declared the victor. Tried to restart game and found controls unresponsive/no sound.
  22. NTSC Model M Jag. Flashed the 0421-1847 ROM to a Rev 3 Skunkboard this morning. Played Kombateroids. First play through seemed good. Not exactly clear on how the game decides when things are over, but on what was probably the 10th screen, the game suddenly decided Player 1 had won. Then returned us to the Kombateroids game selection screen (Level to start on, Best of etc). Restarted game and both controllers are dead. No response. And no sound either. Each level now just times out. And the end of that, the game again determines Player 1 is the winner. But now it is impossible to navigate away from the "Kombat is over" screen. In the co-op modes, my 16 year old also notes that when the Player 1 ship color is green, and the Player 2 ship color is blue, it makes it very hard to see which direction the cannon is facing. Otherwise he loves the game and noted that he had no idea the Jag was so awesome. (He's a Nintendo guy).
  23. Just been playing this on an Incognito 800. It looks and sounds great! Thank you for completing this conversion, I look forward to spending a chunk of this weekend exploring it.
  24. Back when I added the RetroKidz SVideo adapter board to my 400, I added extra cooling holes to the cage. Its pretty simple. The original thread is here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/163005-a400-composite-mod/?hl=%2Batari+%2B400+%2Bsvideo&do=findComment&comment=2026954 There is a picture of the cage after I added the holes here: http://atariage.com/forums/gallery/image/4471-img-2851jpg/ I just used a 3/8 drill bit on a power drill. It cut through in just a few seconds. But take it slow to get a good clean finish.
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