oracle_jedi

Awesome work @t0ri Can I ask you - what is the component part number and where can you but the 4pin power connector on the board?

I have a Backbit device for my C64, and an adapter that allows me to plug it into my VIC20. Very cool device that can support cartridge images, D64 and D81 disk images and I think tape images too.

I have a 3.5 inch modded XF551 for my Atari 8-bits - using Dropcheck's replacement PCB. I like the format. It holds enough 8-bit games that one disk can keep me entertained for a while, and the label is large enough to list out most of the titles, so I can flip through the disks in a disk box to find the one I am interested in. I also have a 3.5 inch drive for my 8-bit Commodores, and another for my TI99/4A. And yet more for the STs, Falcons, Amigas and the PC-XT clone. I consider myself a fan of the format. Yet I am not at all surprised that there has not been more support for the format amongst the hardware being developed more recently. 3.5 inch drives are dead. They are limited capacity and electro-mechanical making them slow and unreliable against the solid-state options that now exist with CF cards, SD cards, the amazing Fujinet and others. Plus, despite whatever plans might have once existed, Atari never released a 3.5 inch drive for the 8-bit, so why would anyone now go to the trouble to support it? It would be like creating a Sinclair Microdrive interface for the 8bit.... interesting but not very useful compared to newer solutions. If you really want a 3.5 drive for your 8bit get an XF551, one of Dropcheck's replacement PCBs, a Hyper-FX ROM and a 720k drive mech. If you're like me you'll love it and have fun creating huge PicoDOS game menu disks with all of your favorite games on them. But everyone else will get much more satisfaction from the microSD card in their SDrive-Max.

My gut reaction to the question of Desert Island Atari Games would be the five I play the most; Mr. Do Pac-Man (2012) Boulderdash II Dropzone Scramble But I go back to those games time and again in part because they are so playable, but also because I can get in a few rounds in the limited time I have between other duties.... If I am stuck on a desert island with unlimited power, snacks and time.... Colossus Chess Alternate Reality MULE Archon Universe - yeah I might even make it through the opening sequence and figure out how to get the ship launched from space dock.

These modern fireplace emulators, when combined with central gas or electric heating, are so much better than the original. They are cleaner, simpler, more reliable, and provide all of the same benefits as the original.

Take an existing disk image of the size you want, make a copy of it and name it "BLANK". Then format "BLANK" from the ST. Save it off to your PC for when you next need a blank disk.

You know its weird. I saw that TV interview when it was originally broadcast, and I've seen the clip on YT a few times too. Never noticed the 130XE wasn't a final production unit until you pointed it out! The prototype GEM running on the ST is interesting too. I wonder if that was an ST that booted to the rainbow splash screen, and GEM was on that cartridge plugged into the side. Would love to get a hold of that!

Atari had already failed when Jack came along. Its why he was able to buy it from Warner for the cash in his pocket.

You could always make your own: http://sleepingelephant.com/~sleeping/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=8724

A simpler solution might be to just buy some ready made 8K/16K PCBs from "thefuturewas8bit". https://www.thefuturewas8bit.com/vic-8k-16k-pcb.html These boards will fit inside the standard Commodore case without modification, and allow standard 27cxx EPROMS to be used. The jumpers allow the first and second 8K blocks to be positioned within the VICs memory map. As I recall, some Commodore cartridge PCBs requires special 2364 ROM chips and could not support a "standard" 27cXX chip. I don't know if this was some early anti-piracy thing or if Jack just had a pile of weird chips on the shelf he needed a use for. If you use one of the later VIC cartridges with the smooth faceplate, you can also experiment with making your own labels for a really professional looking finish.

Too late! I think its obvious she's seen this thread, and although we've failed to silence her completely, I must say I think she's taken the criticisms to heart, judging by her latest content..... have to say I am really proud of you guys. Job well done....

Yes, that must be it! I mean she's in this for the money right? After the Crypto crash, and the NFT implosion. After the FAANG collapse the impending real estate crash, the next get-mega-rich-quick scheme is a being photographed in a sports bra while simultaneously cornering the market for 1980s and 1990s era obsolete tech. Wow. Why didn't I think of this!? All of this flashing her Atari to drive traffic to her YouTube channel that apparently consists of just two videos. Wow, the sheer evil genius of it all...

When your order arrives the packing slip will have a customer number printed on it. Keep that number somewhere safe and don't lose it. I am not joking. Next time you need something, being able to give Brad the customer number makes everything so much simpler. Its like the secret handshake, the password to the club... As you didn't order a BASIC chip I am guessing you plan to leave that out? I did. I prefer not having to hold down OPTION when I boot a disk. Good luck with the mod. If you've done a UAV already this will be a walk in the park.

Be careful with Best Electronics. Brad who runs the place can be a little cranky. Best option would be to review the online list of ICs, then send an email asking for pricing of everything you want with tax+shipping, and then call up and pay with credit card. Do not show up unannounced. It isn't a traditional store front.

I have no experience with CMC, but I have run into all manner of weirdness with the stock 1200XL OS. Do the mod to get the 600/800XL OS installed. Life will be much simpler thereafter. The MMU is available from Best Electronics. They probably have the 28-pin EPROM chips too. An alternative would be B&C.

I recently picked up at Aquarius. I have a soft spot for hopeless little 8-bit micros with unusable keyboards. It joins a CGL M5 and a Commodore MAX in my collection. Anyway I have the parts to do the composite video mod. But I've also noted that the power supply buzzes quite loudly. The output voltages are unique, but looking at the schematic I see that they are regulated to +5V, +12V and -12V. So.... Can the PSU be replaced with one from, say, an Atari ST. Has anyone done this? By-pass the voltage regulation on the motherboard and deliver the three final voltages. And do I even need the -12V if I don't ever plan to use the printer?

A little Sunday morning blasting, and a slight improvement to 1,366,130. I think the extra lives and extra smart bombs all stop at 1M points, so it gets much harder. I know last time we played this someone scored over 1.9M and that is incredible.

1,201,780

I'd guess it is supposed to goto 750 based on the comments.

A buddy of mine bought the 800XL and 1010 cassette drive pack back in 85. The package came in a large retail box with full colour graphics. As I recall, inside the box were the regular 800XL and 1010 retail boxes, plus a couple of tapes with games. if you look at Atari User issue #1, you can see an Atari UK advert that shows the exact box he had. It was on page 2.

I still have my original CD-ROM of this, that I used to play on a 486 running DOS. Nowadays I play it under DosBox. IIRC there was also a Windows version but I don't know if it is any different. I think the CD-ROM can also be played in a regular audio CD player. But my memory might be off on that.

@krupkaj - those look exactly like the floppies I got with my 520ST from Silica Shop back in '87

Pinball Construction Set and other "design your own game" products unleashed a torrent of rude and crude titles. I also ran into numerous hacks of commercial games where graphics had been replaced. Koala Pad was another source of home-brew eight-bit digital porn. Amusing to some perhaps. To me it was all very tedious. I'm no prude. Give me a 60s or 70s bond-girl - the ones 007 needed to overpower and seduce before she shot him or betrayed him to the evil mastermind - any day over the modern day version who'll grind you down with a Andrea Dworkin lecture on toxic masculinity if you so much as cast a glance at her pant suit. But porn on the Atari 8-bit? Yeah the Atari graphics were good. But they weren't *that* good.

I used to have a PEB. Although it added remarkable new abilities to the TI, it was very large, very noisy and cumbersome. After I got a CorComp MES 9900 the PEB was never used again. I ended up selling it and haven't missed it. The only reason I can think of to get another one would be if I ever scored a Myarc Geneve. And since that isn't likely....

I find the XL series boards relatively easy to work on. By comparison to say the XF551 board which is so flimsy that even waving an iron it its general direction causes trace damage. I have a Hakko desoldering vacuum tool. I don't use that much as keeping the nozzle clean is a pain. I will use it for larger jobs. That said, my general tips would be: Be patient. Speed is a killer when desoldering older boards. Have a good clean space with adequate lighting, and if you eye sight is failing like mine, have a damn good magnifying glass set up so you can see what you are doing. A temperature controlled iron is important. I set my Hakko to 600F for most desoldering jobs. Keep the iron clean with a tip cleaner. Use it regularly throughout the job. Be aware of where your iron is. In my youth I managed to damage several case plastics by stupidly waving the iron in the wrong direction. Solderpults can be useful but the recoil and solder splash can itself cause damage for delicate board. If you going to go with a Solderpult, get one where the release trigger remains stationary when you press it, and it not part of the mechanism that moves. That way you will get a more instant vacuum and a better result. Don't be afraid to notch the plastic tip of the Solderpult to get a better result. For my typical IC removal on an XL era board: Get some flux. Use it liberally. Get plenty of good solder wick/braid. Start with the NON +5V/GND pins. Sandwich a length of clean brain between the iron and the pin. Wait no more than 5 seconds. You should see solder start to melt and the braid absorb it. Solder might have flowed to the component side. Frequently the IC needs to be desoldered from both sides. If the solder isn't melting, try a slightly hotter setting. If the solder does not fully evacuate the hole, add some flux and repeat. Cut the braid into short lengths so that the heat is not absorbed by the roll of braid. From the component side of the board, use the iron to heat the IC leg and push it gently so that it is not stuck to the side of the hole. From the foil side you should now be able to wiggle the desoldered leg. For the GND/+5V pins, set the iron to 750F to compensate for the fact that the power and ground lines will dissipate the heat. By all means try at 650F but I find that this frequently is less effective. For stubborn GND pins I have gone to the max 849F setting, but only touch the pin for 2 to 3 seconds Keep a close eye on the traces. If they start to look like they are in any way affected, STOP. With all pins desoldered gently try to wiggle the IC. I use nylon tools intended for opening iPhones as they will not damage traces under the IC. If you feel resistance when trying to lift the IC, stop and recheck each pin is free in its respective hole. As you lift the IC, visually inspect each pin to ensure it is not pulling the trace up with it. Clean up with Isopropyl alcohol. Be sure to install a socket so you never have to worry about this IC again Good luck!