Uzumaki

Some C64 disk drive also have the marks for adjusting. They have 60hz and 50hz marks depending where you live to adjust.

You have Ultima by any chance? Worthless dirt common junk, probably as common and as much fun as ET for 2600. I'll pay to get it off your had as I am building an Ultimate table made of nothing but VC-20 Ultima carts.

external powered USB hub usually have 5v DC 2.5A or more, and Atari 2600 or Nintendo NES for the AC output. It does need to be AC, a square wave DC with a small transformer to convert that to AC doesn't work at all, people tried and failed. It had to be AC all the way from original 110/220v source.

If we had something like that back then and it was reasonably priced, we could have had a few massive games. With really good bankswitching, a 128GB could hold over 33 million bankswitched 4k pages. (largest Atari game is only 16k or 4 pages) Could have had a game world that size of World of Warcraft or even Minecraft.

Wait, so it will have USB and SD support?

Same. A few lucky beta tester paid him several hundred PLN (under $100 usd) to help him get the supplies together and send out the prototypes for the testers to play with.

Since when is a few resistors, few capacitors, a transistor or 2, LED, and few connectors worth an extra $100?

PM replied

Ugly yellow shade, power wires have been chewed by mice. Book is included, I can't test it since I don't know if the power still work or if it needs rewiring. The Aquarius logo forward of expansion port seems to be covered, maybe factory covered? No idea, dug this up in someone's barn. There was also box but it was ruined, rained on, animal pee'd and poop'd on, etc. Nothing else in the box beside the system with port cover and a book. Free you pay shipping. The shipping will probably be 10 to 15 dollars in the 48 states, more elsewhere. Hope an Aquarius fan can save this one. close up of one of the 2 chewed wires

First up: blame power supply. It is responsible for oh about 90% of all problems with C64. The 5v rail has a tendacy to go bad and dump a lot more than 5v into C64, frying everything. If it's the early black brick, I'd pitch it and get a nice replacement PSU. A quick and easy way if you have Atari 2600 or NES, and an USB hub with external power. Use the 2600 or NES adapter (which does 9-10v AC) into the 2 inputs for AC power. The USB hub with external power are usually 5v 2A+, use that in the 5v pin. If you're not good with electronics, better buy a good safe one instead. Second: When it's working fine for a few minutes then going black could be bad power supply, loose chips, or bad chips. Open the C64 and reseat all socketed chips (including VIA under the metal shield) and try again. If you have used good working PSU and have tried reseating but nothing works, then while the case is open and power is on, touch every IC. Anything that feels too hot (burns your finger) could be bad chip. A can of compressed air with the straw attachment, turned upside down, and aimed at the offending chip give it a quick squirt. If your C64 works while it's chilled, replace the chip. Third: I'd suggest a trip to lemon64 forum, there are experts there that can probably pinpoint your issue more quickly than I can.

I used to have Vectrex. I liked the system a lot for some games that were very close to original vector arcade games but it did take up more spaces than most other consoles. Since I never grew up with Veccy I didn't have attachment and I could easily let mine with original games go (kept a couple homebrewn games) and maybe pick up another Veccy when I get room. (and after someone does a proper Star Wars arcade game)

So long as they make full overlay set available somewhere, and clearly marked as not original (ie remove Mattel copyright 19xx notice and replace with AtGames 2014) so shady seller can't try to pass off 120 overlay as "vintage original set" and rip off collectors who wants genuine original and not reproductions.

My bad, I was a bit off with the history. Tramiel left Commodore before Amiga came around and bought Atari about the time Commodore bought Amiga. Tramiel wanted a deal with Amiga but wasn't happy and made Atari computer line to compete with Amiga in revenge.

Too technical for me!

Didn't stop Datel from making Action Replay for Amiga 500.

If the issue are to wrong wiring, it may still be possible to hack the first issue controllers to work correctly on older systems. Or build a breakout box that goes between new controller and older consoles that changes the wiring order. I have Sam Club card and I can help you get one if you're near Flint or Saginaw.

I tried and I was outbid anyway. /whistles

So theoretically someone could create a massive 4GB game that can be loaded in section as needed? Lynx games were limited both because of limited physical space and because ROM chip were expensive back then. Today one can get a 4GB SD card for under $5 shipped. Anyone up to creating a WoW-esque game that can be played by multiple players via com cable?

So posting my own auction of combat with autograph of Eric for $10,000 may be interesting only because of stupid price but if I posted the same with a realistic $1 starting and reasonable shipping, it won't qualify as interesting. I still think the rule should be amended to exclude self plugging from new members (10 non spam post minimum)

Or a 128 with 1571. They are pretty fast without JiffyDOS and with them they are even better. I am planning to copy Ultima 3 and 4 gold version to 1571 (double sided mode) to play since people have reported problem running them off SD2IEC. Still waiting for my SD2IEC to show up. Shipping from Europe does take a while.

Be nice if there is also a game cheat built in multi cart like some other flash carts offered. Then we can figure out and compile cheat list like infinite time and lives for challenging games like Gates of Zendocorn and Xybots. Also to make code for hard mode like half the damage from player and/or double damage from enemies.

Drool worthy is a souped up Mac Plus with 4 meg RAM and a 20MB hard drive that connected to floppy disk port. I still have them along with Mac Centris 610 and PowerPC upgrade card, and a Powerbook Duo 280c with 500mb hard drive (largest 2.5" SCSI drive when everyone stopped making 2.5" SCSI drive completely)

Sounds about complete to me. I also have C64 version without the hint book. I do have the hint book for U5 and the extremely rare hint book with C64 errata for U6 as many things differed from when U6 clue book went to print and when C64 version was finally finished. PS what version of metal ankh? The large pewter ankh or the small brass ankh? I have no idea why there's different version but I wanted to get the brass version just to have it.

There can't be many second party titles before the infamous crash. Second party is company who develop games which are then published by first party (console maker) One good example are the Pokemon series. Game Freak developed them and Nintendo published them.

Maybe someone wanted to control 2 players with 1 hand? Very pointless design if he didn't disconnect one of the pot as having 2 pots would send mixed signals. Take it off.