Uzumaki

I would love a PWM as well but locally I think they base on eBay prices. There is only 1 PWM within 100 miles of me and some idiotic clown wants $150 for the 12" monitor. I almost had a 20" PVM for under $100 but it never specified working, the owner said it works but when I got there and tried to plug it in, all I got was an impression it's possessed by a banshee, the awful racket it was making from the back told me it's bad.

Or something like this: http://www.tamperevidentlabels.com/TEL/Tamper-Evident-Void-Labels.aspx?engine=adwords&keyword=void+sticker&gclid=CjkKEQjwlcSdBRD3wva3-KOAo80BEiQAjNIhiSkou6WvGU9gQX4Z4Q8NkQa7hxFAmQ55NVKsMDeg273w_wcB I put one over the screw hole to make it very hard for dishonest buyer to open the game or system and swap parts. I do note the serial number of the label along with other serial number(s) and make it visible and clear in the auction listing. Haven't had any fraudulent return since last year someone switched a mint label Mega Man for another Mega Man that was a former chew toy. I sure hope he enjoyed a box of piping hot poop I sent from poopsender site. (waited until it was dang hot in his state for extra ripe and extra stink!)

Some of the sockets are installed backward. It could cause confusion to whoever gets your system in the future. The notches on the socket (and the chip) are supposed to match the silk screening. When you put the RAM chips, did you make sure all the notched side are facing the right way? In the picture you used, the notches should be pointing toward the top of the image. Sockets itself don't have polarity and it will be fine on its own, just leave a sticky note inside to remind yourself or inform other people in the future to ignore the notches on the socket as they are wrong.

Flashback system might still be abailable at local Walmart. 2 controllers for about $20 that works with original 2600, and you get a bunch of games with the console.

I don't know about 4 Apple IIc's plus a C64. That would give more combined RAM (576k) than what C128 has. You'd need to buy a 512k REU to get C128 up to beat the combined memory of 4 IIcs. My school wasn't into "war" until Super NES and Genesis came out. Most of my classmate didn't have a computer until 386 and Mac II became available, and Nintendo NES was already a dominant system. I think I was the only one with a SMS back then but I didn't care. Less sharing

No idea but it sure looks a lot more comfortable to use than 3rd party sticks. Either the version with adhesive that stuck to the disc or the one that involves taking apart the controller to swap the disc for the stick. I have the latter that came with a Sears Arcade and it wasn't comfortable to use for big hands, I ended up swapping for disc out of a Mattel Inty system

Usually in my bed. Once in a while, porcelain throne as well.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=0&y=0&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=360-2270-nd Pin lines up exactly. Only the rocker portion is a bit bigger so a little modding would be needed on the 1541-ii case. It would look very close to stock though and better than having a long pole sticking out or having to reach around to unplug it when not using it. The jumper bypass is the cheapest solution though but it'd be always on, an inconvience if you need to reboot the drive or temporarily turn it off to test another disk drive that has the same ID.

I still need the demo cart. Frickin' nice haul!!

Still better than paying $30+ for a replacement 1541-II on eBay that may not work anyway. First class shipping came to $2.86 so the switch itself is more expensive than shipping. It should last me another 25 years though

Surprised no one jumped on my sealed NWC considering Nintendo never had any sealed to begin with.

Looks exactly the same, not sure about the size though I'd have to dig up my caliper and compare the original switch to the spec the site provided. At a glance the spec looks right. Total would come to a bit over $10 for first class shipment of one switch.

So quite a few people here with deep pockets. Maybe I should list my Inty lots. Sealed Sears Backgammon, sealed White Whale, sealed Stadium Events, sealed Nintendo World Champion, sealed Air Raid, and sealed Sword Quest: Air World.

Vectron is unplayable without real Intellivision controller. The compilation for Playstation and DS for example only did 8 directions and not true 16 directions so some area were impossible to hit.

I also had plan. I was going to consolize a spare Lynx into a mini tabletop system that connects to a TV. I already have it modded to use PSX controller so I don't have to hold the whole Lynx.

I already know DK is a major POS so I voted for my #2 worst. Maze-a-TRON. Somewhat hard to play and doesn't look TRON-esque to me.

I've been on AA longer. why am I not at the top?

My 1541-ii just had the same thing today. Fine this morning, dead now. It feels springy, like the internal latch broke. The switch looks fine on the outside, it just won't go to "on" position or stay there anymore. Until I can find exact size replacement, I've taken the old switch and installed 2 jumpers to make the drive permanently on. Just unplug or use power strip to turn it off.

eBay Auction -- Item Number: 171341703556 Something printed from internet, only 96 pages and he wants that much?

Won't stop resellers like him since it's pretty much free to list anything nowday. The seller only pays for extra options like subtitles, and if the item sells. He's basically bragging that he can get anything graded and be worth a lot more. And if someone buys it, there's something about fools and his money.

There has been no update from candle for some months now. The few selected beta testers are still waiting as well. I think he's been keeping quiet because he was shown to be online recently without sending updates.

Not with the 8MB Supra RAM I have sitting around for a 500. A 1200 is better but they costs more than twice what 600 usually go for and 600/500 are somewhat comparable in overall performance stock wise. I'll just stick with the 500 for now as many older games I want to play will run fine.

Wanted: working Amiga computer with disks. A600 considered but I'd prefer 500 because of the number pad is missing and A600 is not really upgradeable.

As I recall, he didn't want to another run because to keep the cost down he needs to make multiple boards and parts and it took him a long time to sell out CC3. The real demand only peaked the day after he sold the last one. It's been a while, maybe someone can bribe him to release the information and make it public domain for anyone with expertise to make one and sell? He could tweak the original menu code to signify it's not the original run. Editing Intellivision ROM isn't easy because of weird addressing system Intellivision uses so it'd be hard to hack it to make it look original and pass it off as a first run CC3.

If you grew up in the 80's with regular TV or low budget composite monitor, the 5 pin will be fine because with S-Video it'd look very sharp and not the same as you're used to. If you didn't have C64 back then or still want one, an 8 pin C64 is much more common and may be worth hunting for because the image is much sharper. You could see individual pixel easily. Some games do look worse in S-Video because they use tricks to simulate more color by using checkered pattern, which on composite or RF gets burred over and 2 colors ends up looking like a new color. I've only found a few games that seems better with RF.