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Uzumaki

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Posts posted by Uzumaki

  2. Posted

     

    I've tried quite a few games, and if you can't get the original to work you can try a 'cracked' copy - which is usually what you find on the net anyway.. Haven't figured out how to get Championship LodeRunner working yet, but hey, that's one of the few that I've been totally unable to run on the SD2IEC.

     

    Did you try using a disk copier to copy it from SD2IEC to a good blank disk? This assumes you have a working 1541 compatible disk drive and some 5.25" disks that are not HD format.

  5. Posted

    The first time I played Intellivision was at my relative's house. My brother and I had Atari but we were surprised to see different game system and complicated looking controller and spent a lot of the free time playing it. We enjoyed Snafu and games like Tropical Trouble stumped us. I can remember the very first time with Cloudy Mountain game. When I figured out the controller, it became a very fun game to play with nothing like it on Atari (all random maze)

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    I haven't had the chance to check out my latest aquisition, a $25 SuperPET 9000 but I couldn't find much detail on this with Google. If the problem is not due to loose chips or cables, then what can I do? The symptoms:

     

    sometimes it boots up OK, sometimes it boots to garbage screen. When it boots OK, half of the keyboard doesn't work. I am quite sure it's the famous Chip Creep problem but if that's not it, then what? SuperPET 9000 is basically 8032 with numerous extra hardware added in, a RAM board, beefy CPU, a chip upgrade board whose function is unknown and that Commodore never talks about, etc. Schematic for power and monitor are easy but the mainboard is another beast.

  15. Posted

    Mind you if you remove one resistor from 32x to get clean S-Video, you'll lose composite video. Just a heads up as some newer TV doesn't offer S-Video as it wasn't well supported in USA. These day it's composite, component, or HDMI.

  17. Posted

    I've done a couple. The cap kit I get are from Console5 they about $7 a kit plus shipping. It does take a while, desolder and pop out the old caps, trim excess lead on new caps, position them and solder it in, check under magnifying glass to be sure it is correctly soldered in, then test the system after it's all done.

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    Try tilting the Game Gear to almost flat. If you can see the image, the caps on the main board are bad.

     

    I've recapped 2 Game Gears in similar conditions (one 2ASIC and one v04) and I have a 3rd one that still works fine, a Majesco model but it may need new cap soon. Their LCD is a bit better than Sega models.

     

    PS Majesco model can be identified by these 3 features if you're looking in the wild, in gaming store, and on auctions.

    1. Majesco model is black while Sega model is dark grey
    2. Start button is purple instead of blue
    3. 3 dot logo by the LCD are white instead of red/green/blue.

  19. Posted

    The real scam are some dishonest Chinese sellers. They have a few tricks up their sleeves. If you get something that is wrong (ie expected laptop battery, got iPhone charger), they often take 2-3 days to respond. Offer a partial refund or offer to resend another. Never accept the resend offer because it may end up with fake tracking info or otherwise be way too late for you to file claim or escalate it. if they tell you to send it back, there's another scam. Postage from China is subsided and they can ship it dirt cheap but shipping back to China with tracking can be very expensive. If you don't send it back and you do leave a neg, eBay will remove it. :-o :thumbsdown: Because of this, checking the seller's feedback first may be skewed by eBay removing legitimate negs and make it look good for the shady seller.

     

    I've had good deals from Chinese sellers. It's when you get wrong or broken item that you'd need to be careful. When contacting the seller to complain, use "Others" in the list of option as this will NOT open dispute. As long as dispute is not opened, you can leave neg if the seller is still no good.

     

    As for the as-is auctions, check the seller's other items. I've seen listing for (for example) Atari 2600 "as is untested due to not having games" but have games listed that are tested working. That's a red flag the seller is an idiot. One of the best as-is auction I got was $30 for a 22" LCD TV that wouldn't come on. Took it apart, the cable from the switch board was loose. Reconnected it, viola $200 working TV :D . (well, $200 at the time, now maybe $50 today) As-is auctions are crap shoot provided you checked the seller's other auction and completed selling history.

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    Ditto Hunt the Wumpus. Not the same as original computer version but the only commercial Hunt the Wumpus. Not limited to 20 rooms means more challenge, especially on harder mode with almost nothing but twisted maze. Trying to figure the clues to avoid slime pit and finding wumpus to shoot is hard.

    • Like 1

  21. Posted

    One of my earlier LCD TV didn't like Atari 2600 or 7800. If I tuned to channel before I turned on the system, there would be a flash then it'd remain "no signal" but if I turn on the system first then TV usually locks on and sticks with it.

     

    Rules have changed a bit over time and digital TV are a bit more touchy. Older devices were allowed to be more lax and more noisy and still be legal with FCC regulations.

  23. Posted

    Scored a Commodore SuperPET model 9000 for $25. It was the last PET released and it's basically a 8032 on steroid with 96k RAM and a lot of built in programming stuff like basic, assembler, fortran, cobol, etc. It was described as not working right with garbage sometimes, and sometimes working. Sounded like chip creep issue to me and $25 is a frickin' steal for *any* PET system. If I can't make it work, I can always sell the mainboard, grab a PC board or Raspberry Pi, wire the original keyboard in, the monitor seems to be a composite type and should work as well, and run a PET emulator. :D

    • Like 2

  24. Posted

    Get JiffyDOS set if you plan to keep the C64 a while longer. It'll boost the speed by a lot and leave the cart port free plus some cart fast loader don't always play nice with some copy protection tricks.

     

    If you get SD2IEC and find your favorite game won't work, get a set of blank 5.25" DD disks and either a disk notcher or a hole puncher to make it 2 sided then use something like Fast Hack'em to copy the content of d64 to a real disk. Then run that disk, since it'd be running in a real 1541 you're less likely to run into loading issue.

     

    (only 1571 can naively read both sides, all other 5.25 serial disk drive you need to flip the disk, and almost all commercial games are single sided anyway)

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    I'm going to suggest the Sega Master System. There are a mere 269 games in the PAL library (even less in the US and Japan where the SMS didn't do so well) and common games can be bought CIB for £5-£10 and even the rare games can be bought for anything between £60-£120 (maybe less if you wait for auctions instead of BINs).

     

    There are also plenty of other collecting options for the SMS. Pirate hacks, Tectoy releases in Brazil and Portugal, peripherals, variations in hardware and software, undiscovered prototypes, the list goes on. The SMS can be as cheap or expensive as you want it to be.

     

    Smurf 2. Easily north of $500 by itself CIB in good condition. There's also a few other that commands pretty penny like Power Strike 2. Sorry but SMS is out of the question. CIB Virtualboy collection (including Japanese exclusives) is probably cheaper than loose SMS collection.

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