Uzumaki

The lamp I'm using provides UV-C and was listed as a germicidal. It has worked for probably close to 500 EPROM I've erased in the past few years. There's also quarts bulb but it's frickin' expensive to replace. And some quartz bulb are filtered, finding the right one can be a challenge itself. Compare to $10 12" unfiltered fluorescent bulb...

Because a standard PB ROM requires at least 3 IC's for bankswitching and to make a multicart version, PB cart case would be a bit crammed. Xonox cart is huge and has room to experiment Once you're familiar with the wiring of PB bankswitch scheme, you may be able to keep things compact and neat to fit inside PB case.

Ok thanks for the help =)

Everquest and all expansions on 2600 Actually the 2600 will probably blow up trying to do a real time 3D rendering. Seriously: I'd love to have a Zelda type game (or Golden Axe Warrior or Neutopia) on 5200 or 7800. Not sure about the 2600, there isn't many game that will fit the 2600 limitations.

Toshiba e507 has served me well. 64MB internal memory is more than enough and has 2 memory card slots. I leave a 1GB CF card permanently and use the SD card for quick update or to add files. The Toshiba can also have wifi or Ethernet support via add on card. It's about 4 years old so used model should be had cheaply. With the CF and SD slots, you probably can live without the USB caddy or the software CD but do get a memory card reader. I replaced the internal battery about a year ago and I'm getting about 2 hours with back light at minimum and no sound, probably over 3 hours if I turn off the back light and use external light instead. The LCD is reflective type, like Gameboy SP.

http://www.amigahistory.co.uk/powerstick.html Amiga Powerstick for me. Nice and small, I can play with 2 at once, great for certain games like Raiders of the Lost Ark or 2 player games. Of course it helps to be ambidexterity.

Does the disc spin at all? If it does spin, try cleaning the laser lens using the universal CD cleaning kit that should play like audio CD. If it doesn't spin, take the console apart and see if it could be loose cables. If it's not loose and still won't work, it's probably dead.

Pitfall 2 and Solaris defiantly. Also Adventure, original Pitfall, and Yars Revenge. Maybe Raiders of the Lost Ark

Adjusted the original code for missing # in 37 loops, still showing 210 lines in final output. Any other?? Those extra lines may be OK on some TVs but many will probably roll due to having too many scanlines total.

I was trying to do a color cycling fuji logo taking up most of the screen. It'd get used to fill in the blank spot of my multicarts. Should be neater than duplicating games or leaving it blank. But unless I miscounted something, Stella reports 210 scanlines displayed but I only counted 192. Where did the 18 extra lines sneak in from??? Attached the asm file and bin for you to look at (PS ignore where I noted 32 data lines, it should be 23.) processor 6502 include "vcs.h" include "macro.h" ;variables Color_Start = $80; Playfield Color (Color of the 1st Line) Color = $81; Temp Var Address PFData2 = #%00000000 SEG ORG $F000 Reset SEI CLD LDX #$FF TXS LDA #0 Clear_Mem STA 0,X DEX BNE Clear_Mem STA Color_Start; Init Playfield Color LDA #1 STA CTRLPF; Mirrored Playfiels LDA #$00 STA COLUBK; Set Background to Black Start_Frame ; Start VSYNC LDA #2 STA VSYNC STA WSYNC STA WSYNC STA WSYNC; 3 Scanlines of VSYNC LDA #0 STA VSYNC; End VSYNC ; 37 Scanlines of Vertical Blank... LDX 37 Vertical_Blank STA WSYNC DEX BNE Vertical_Blank LDA #0 STA VBLANK; Enable TIA Output ;Start Drawing Playfield LDX Color_Start STX Color STX COLUPF ; Draw Top Border LDY #4; 4 Lines to Draw (4 scans) LDA #PFData2 STA PF0 STA PF1 STA PF2 DrawBorder1 STA WSYNC DEX STX COLUPF DEY BNE DrawBorder1 ; Draw Fuji STX Color LDX #$17; Init Index Draw_Fuji LDA PF1FujiData-1,x STA PF1 LDA PF2FujiData-1,x STA PF2 LDY #$07; 8 Lines repeated per data line TXA; Save Index LDX Color Draw_Fuji_Line STA WSYNC DEX STX COLUPF DEY BNE Draw_Fuji_Line STX Color; Save Color Index TAX; Restore Index DEX BNE Draw_Fuji ; 32 data lines * 8 = 184 scanlines here ;184 + 4 = 188 scanlines here, ok so far ; Draw Bottom Border LDY #4; 4 Lines to Draw LDA #PFData2 STA PF0 STA PF1 STA PF2 Draw_Border2 STA WSYNC DEX STX COLUPF DEY BNE Draw_Border2 ; 188 + 4 more scanlines = 192 allowed in visible display ; Makes Colors to Scroll Up LDX Color_Start DEX STX Color_Start ;overscan and vbanking LDA #%01000010 ; Disable VIA Output STA VBLANK ; 30 scanlines of overscan... LDX #30 Overscan STA WSYNC DEX BNE Overscan JMP Start_Frame; Build Next Frame PF1FujiData .byte #%11111000; .byte #%11111110; .byte #%01111111; .byte #%00001111; .byte #%00000111; .byte #%00000011; .byte #%00000001; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; 23 * 8 = 184 lines .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000; .byte #%00000000 ; PF2FujiData .byte #%11000000; .byte #%11000000; .byte #%11000000; .byte #%11000001; .byte #%11000011; .byte #%11000011; .byte #%11000111; .byte #%11001111; .byte #%11001111; .byte #%11011110; 23 * 8 = 184 .byte #%11011100; .byte #%11011100; .byte #%11011100; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000; .byte #%11011000 ; ORG $FFFA ; Interrupt Vectors .word Reset ; NMI .word Reset ; RESET .word Reset ; IRQ END fujiscreen.bin fuji.txt

Heh =) Just like the Stella Sketch which not only sounded the same but also played the same as that Etch-A-Sketch toy. Suggestion: don't use Simpson reference and make sure the character don't look the same. Make them blue skinned rather than yellow.

You may be able to jury rig an older AT power supply since it does have the required voltages for the CV. Older AT power supply have hard wired power switch. ATX power supply are much harder to get turned on because some of them sometimes will refuse to power on unless there's sufficient load on certain lines. Maybe a cheap $10 ATX tester and tap in the 3 voltages plus ground?

Out of maybe 20 pawn shops around Flint and Saginaw, I've seen 2600 games only at one of them recently. I don't think most pawn shops are taking older games, or if they are, they are selling on eBay for fast profit.

I used to have a number of rare gems like Glibs, SQ: Water World and such but I'm not really a collector and opted to sell them to people who could appreciate the rare stuff. I'm more of a gamer who'll be happy with repros. Right now I think the rarest item is a CIB Sorcerer's Apprentice. Label is very spotty, almost all dark but box and manual are in decent shape.

Book listed that one in excess of $75,000 for one mint copy. But if you had the Action Comic that featured Superman for the first time ever, selling one would put 2 kids through Yale for 4 years.

Also what kind of game style? oine on one fighting similiar to Street Fighter series? Homer and Marge in Beat em and Eat em style game? etc...

Every now and then, an EPROM dies. Usually they read all zero and won't get erased no matter how long under the UV lamp, or are all stuck at FF and fails at programming at the very first byte. But why do they fail? I've had to toss out 2x 2732 EPROMs that wouldn't get erased. I have a pile of about 30 EPROMs that died in the last 2 months including a couple 2 mega and one 4 mega.

You passed up a Picasso version of Castlevania 4???? Shame on you.

There is one that came with CGB version of Gameshark. No idea how it could be used beside programming the Gameshark. I can't find them at this time but I know it's out there...

C heetahmen2 anyone? Can't be used with Game Genie and damn near impossible to get past the first stage alone.

Storing games in direct sunlight. Hello faded label! Some cheap windows don't block enough UV to prevent fading.

I'd pay more as well for *decent* licensed games.

The console may have been serviced and had its part swapped but the ribbon cable were different in the other 2 heavy consoles I took apart. The other 2 were flat single ribbon cable with probably 30 gauge wires. One version the cable were soldered at both end. Other version the socket were on the switch board and wires plugged straight into it (no pin connector)

File a NPB, there should be an option somewhere for buyer not following term of payment. Since you only ship to USA/Canada at that time, bidder from outside that 2 countries didn't qualify under your term and you should be able to get FVF fairly quickly.

Sounds more like too much work, not much free time, and greedy customs.