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About bohoki

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  1. in my altoids controller i just used 2 240k resistors 220k is probably ok too treating each direction as a button is easier to wire them individually so button up should be from 9 to 11 with a 240k resistor across the terminals button down should be from 11 to 15 button left should be 9 to 10 with a 240k resistor across button right should be pin 10 to 15 the reason this works is that 240 is the default resistance till you hit up or left then its a dead short so the charging circuit is seeing rapid charge if you press down or right it is grounding it out so its seeing no charging which is the same as infinite resistance left and up is like fire hose full blast centers is like a garden hose and right down are like a dribble or nothing if you want to make it deluxe use a 500k potentiometer in place of the resistor to dial in your center but i find consoles are very forgiving and self adjust after a couple resets on off cycles i just used 8 conductor eithernet wire you really only need 6 conductors for the bottom row directions and buttons and i use the other 2 wires to connect pins 4 and 7 to activate start
  2. well i got my first 5200 in a trade in around 1987 for a sega master system it came with about 20 games superbreakout pacman galaxian centipede tennis digdug berzerk moon patrol vanguard space invaders robotron pengo mario bros jungle hunt joust defender choplifter football kangaroo ms pacman
  3. yea the controllers were lacking but yea the 2600 was still on shelves in 1990 probably the last year i remember them at kb toys there was a flood of master system stuff about then
  4. i would suggest putting in missile command and see if you can center the cursor pull off the actuators then place them back on at the 9:00 and 6:00 positions the 5200 self calibrates and is pretty forgiving just doing a few circles and power cycles
  5. neat work i wonder has fear(figure 8 racing) been modified?
  6. you do not need active components you only need them when you are converting to serial or are using a 2600 controller with a common ground since you are using a breadboard with individual switches you can replicate a digital to analog contition by using a 220-240k resistor for the center of each vector so one for uppy downy and one for lefty righty with the uppy downy one you just use the up button to short the resistor so that button makes 0 ohm now the trick is how to make a button press feel like 500k some just use a normally closed button that way when you break the contact it would be infinite resistance but there is another dirty trick you could play on the system if you steal a leg from the button ground pin 11 it will feel like there is no charging going on and the system interprets this as infinite resistance just repeat for lefty righty knowing that left is wants low ohms and right wants high ohms
  7. wico cable is only for the wico 5200 stick the 15 pin atari connector has the top row being the keypad matrix the bottom row is for directions and fire buttons the cable passes through the top row from the controller to the system and the bottom row is sent to the 9 pin wired in their special configuration if you have the wico y cable and do not have a wico analog 5200 stick you are not going to be able to do anything you can wire a push button to pins 4 and 7 on a 15 pin female plug jack it in and not need a atari controller plugged into the y adapter most games only need you to press start also the y adapter conductors can break so use an ohm meter and check each connection (remember what i said about top row and bottom row
  8. thanks works neato in the emulator i am using
  9. i wonder what nukey shay has been doing lately if we find him maybe we could beg to have him look it over
  10. i wonder if someone could optimise atari 800s star island https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xajULLhhr5g
  11. check the archive.org someone been busy during the plague
  12. hmn the ideas i have for repair ive done this with genesis controllers where the outer wire sleeve cracks at the stress relief disconnect the inner wires pull them through then peel out the wire sleeve tube from the stress relief then lube up the wire with alcohol slip it back through the stress relief then put a ziptie on it so it cant pull back through with the competition pro i like making a little dongle with a start button and two 240k resistors so you can just play with the switch box open it up carefully peel the shielding away from the cord use an exacto to cut a bit of the white inner insulation and then with needle nose pliers pull the center wire out a bit more from atari's spiffy push on f-connector
  13. well you can do it the hard and cheap way or the expensive and easy way if you can solder a 15 pin female plug and a male 9 pin plug is around 50cents each and you just follow the pin to pin connections below and just use any old wire you have lying around like an eithernet cable or a cut up wall wart cord if you cant solder i would suggest breakout boards and neo geo extension cable i am in no way affiliated with these sellers the links are for illustrative purposes only https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB15-Female-D-SUB-2-Row-15-Pin-Plug-Breakout-Terminal-Solderless-Connector-SI-ps/313154202725 https://www.ebay.com/itm/DB9-Male-D-Sub-9-Pin-Plug-Breakout-Terminals-Solderless-Nut-Type-Connector-PLUEW/203056263360 https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-High-Quality-10FT-Controller-Extension-cable-for-NEO-GEO-AES-USA-SELLER/381701927963 you can also buy some pushbuttons for start pause and reset although i never use pause and reset i would suggest just wiring one to start and the others to # and * https://www.ebay.com/itm/3PCS-Micro-Lockless-Momentary-On-Off-Push-Button-12V-5A-Switch-Tact-Assortment/382864366387 so you would connect one leg of the switch to 15 pin units start =4 and 7,#= 8 and 1,*= 8 and 3 pause=4 and 6 reset= 4 and 5 wico connections all are in 15 pin to 9pin 9-7 10-8 11-6 (12-1) never needed but was there in case wico used its own trackball in the past future i suggest not connecting it 13-5 14-4 15-3 i could tell you to get a matrix keypad but i dont have the time to explain its pinouts
  14. my adapter is really just the 5200 faq "ibm gameport to 5200 adapter" with 2 tweaks 1) i add a start button 2) i connect gameport pins 4 and 5 together cause i ran into a weird joystick that used the other ground wire once i also attempt to make them as cheaply as is humanly possible and pass the savings onto you
  15. neat if you want to use that throttle on your solderless extensiob just swap the pin 13 to pin 6 (on the controller end just unplug the wire that goes to pin 6 and put it in the pin 13 socket )cause throttle is just y axis on joy2 but ive often found throttles with springs (which is dumb) that spring back to down its only real use to me is the pole position shifter or a locked thrott with river raid or dreadnaught i'm surptised you havent came up with some kind of lily tomlin phone operator board with a bunch of patch cords to select which button abcd is button one which axis is which heck you could even screw with teh matrix and make the frogger buttons in a more wasd configuratrion
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