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bohoki

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Posts posted by bohoki

  1. 20 hours ago, leech said:

    Football for the US is a dumb name for it.  You only really touch the ball to your foot for kick off, and the rest of the time try not to drop it.  should be called Handball... soccer being called football makes so much more sense.  (I am from the US and can admit our mistakes)

    yea i agree with you american football evolved too much originally you could only pass latterally and kick forward now the game is just "forward passes" i guess passball or pushball or pigskin anyname would be better

    it would be awesome if the only way to pass forward was to drop kick it  and i personally dont think the thing they play with is really a "ball"

     

     

    but i'm sure we could find other examples of thing that we name weird just think about the word screen

     

    now we call any video visual display a screen it makes no sense all because inside a crt there was shadowmask that looked similar to a windowscreen to keep bugs out

  2. hmm there are 5 games that "need" analog control ,superbreakout,kaboom,starwars,gorf,missile command

     

    games that need 2 buttons hmm i havent gone through them lately but the ones that come to mind are qix fast /slow walls and pole position gas brake (although the brake is very mild a downshift is a better brake)

  3. its neato not exactly a "company" making it its very simple to wire up  a controller i've always said the hardest part is finding an "enclosure" every one is either too big or too small  if anyone saw my attempts at home made controllers ive gone through altoid tins up through a metal power supply  box

     

    i guess the problem i note is arcade machines use joysticks because it mounted to a giant unmovable enclosure

    the atari 2600 joystick works cause its fine to hand hold and press the one button with your thumb but when you get to 2 buttons it gets more tricky companies have been using heavy steel plates and feet and even suction cups to replicate the feel of a stationary arcade cabinet

     

    it is cool that it is a right hand stick so many arcade sticks are left hand stick

     

    the second hardest part is finding a plug that fits in the 5200 jack

     

     

    i wish everyone luck making joysticks ive come to the conclusion if you are going to hold it in your hands it should be ergonomic

     

    i just use a gravis gamepad and a pc adapter

    • Like 1
  4. in my altoids controller i just used 2 240k resistors 220k is probably ok too

     

    treating each direction as a button is easier to wire them individually

     

    so button up should be from 9 to 11 with a 240k resistor across the terminals

    button down should be from 11 to 15

    button left should be 9 to 10 with a 240k resistor across

    button right should be pin 10 to 15

     

     

     

    the reason this works is that 240 is the default resistance till you hit up or left then its a dead short so the charging circuit is seeing rapid charge if you press down or right it is grounding it out so its seeing no charging which is the same as infinite resistance

     

    left and up is like fire hose full blast centers is like a garden hose and right down are like a dribble or nothing

     

    if you want to make it deluxe use a 500k potentiometer in place of the resistor to dial in your center but i find consoles are very forgiving and self adjust after a couple resets on off cycles

     

    i just used 8 conductor eithernet wire you really only need 6 conductors for the bottom row directions and buttons and i use the other 2 wires to connect pins  4 and 7 to activate start

     

  5. well i got my first 5200 in a trade in around 1987 for a sega master system it came with about 20 games

     

    superbreakout

    pacman

    galaxian

    centipede

    tennis

    digdug

    berzerk

    moon patrol

    vanguard

    space invaders

    robotron

    pengo

    mario bros

    jungle hunt

    joust

    defender

    choplifter

    football

    kangaroo

    ms pacman

     

     

    • Like 1
  6. you do not need active components you only need them when you are converting to serial or are using a 2600 controller with a common ground

     

    since you are using a breadboard with individual switches

     

    you can replicate a digital to analog contition by using a 220-240k resistor  for the center of each vector

     

    so one for uppy downy and one for lefty righty

     

    with the uppy downy one you just use the up button to short the resistor so that button makes 0 ohm

    now the trick is how to make a button press feel like 500k some just use a normally closed button that way when you break the contact it would be infinite resistance  but there is another dirty trick you could play on the system if you steal a leg from the button ground pin 11 it will feel like there is no charging going on and the system interprets this as infinite resistance

     

    just repeat for lefty righty knowing that left is wants low ohms and right wants high ohms

     

    • Thanks 1
  7. wico cable is only for the wico 5200 stick

     

    the 15 pin atari connector has the top row being the keypad matrix the bottom row is for directions and fire buttons

     

    the cable passes through the top row from the controller to the system

    and the bottom row is sent to the 9 pin wired in their special configuration

     

    if you have the wico y cable and do not have a wico analog 5200 stick you are not going to be able to do anything

     

    you can wire a push button to pins 4 and 7 on a 15 pin female plug jack it in and not need a atari controller plugged into the y adapter most games only need you to press start

     

    also the y adapter conductors can break so use an ohm meter and check each connection (remember what i said about top row and bottom row

     

     

  8. hmn the ideas i have for repair ive done this with genesis controllers

     

    where the outer wire sleeve cracks at the stress relief

    disconnect the inner wires pull them through then peel out the wire sleeve tube from the stress relief

     

    then lube  up the wire with alcohol  slip it back through the stress relief then put a ziptie on it so it cant pull back through

     

    with the competition pro i like making a little dongle with a start button and two 240k resistors so you can just play

     

     

    with the switch box open it up carefully peel the shielding away from the cord use an exacto to cut a bit of the white inner insulation and then with needle nose pliers pull the center wire out a bit more from atari's spiffy push on f-connector

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