bohoki

i suggest trying out controllers with missile command first to see what they are doing

yikes i'm a bit confused about that i guess i see what you are doing you are making a dual use item a few i made instead of going direct to the pc i made a 5200wico Y and then made a wico 9 pin to pc gameport which is useful for people who have the wico keypad and/or had a wico stick without the Y-cord i was looking into a company in china to make wico y cords with polymer molded ends but it would run like $1 each with a 1000 order is there 1000 5200s out there?

backside of plugs the areas where you stick the wires the 5200 has male jacks and the joystick has a male plug so both plugs are female you can tell them apart because one of them should have more wires attached elite info ignore if you are do not comprehend i really don't want to confuse things up even more but if your joystick has 4 buttons and you want to use them you could on the gameport plug solder jumpers from 2-10 and 7-14 also if your joystick has a throttle and you want it to be uppy downy put the wire from the 5200 11 - gameport 13

i could have sworn i drew a diagram a while ago you know the top half is just a pass through for the keyboard so that doesn't need to be discussed so that leaves the bottom row on the 5200 side with you dont use pin 12 pins 9,10,11 are the joystick and pins 13,14,15 are the buttons just look at the diagram in the faq file 5200 13 - 2 14 - 7 15 -4(and 5*) 5200 9-1 10-3 11-6 then stick a capacitor on the pc end from 3-4, 6-4 but what i do is connect capacitors from 3-4 and 5-6 and have a jumper from 4-5 *not mentioned in faq but ibm spec is 4 and 5 are both ground you need to mod the plug to the 5200 by cutting off the metal and fusing the front and back together you need to mod the plug to the 5200 controller by putting a couple bends on the top and bottom to allow the lumps to fit the bends are small the first one i made i used tin snips but soon realized that bends were all i needed i like adding a start button so i find the cheapest momentary switch and put wires on it and attach them to 5200 plug 4 and 7

once you get them open you may find the pot arms are out of adjustment check them with a multimeter tone out the cord (harness) before i took them apart i would use the ohm meter to check them out through the cord i think its pins 9-10 and 9-11 check a female plug diagram to find locations i use little paperclips in the holes ps anyone wanting a controller adapter sorry its not that i am not making them anymore its just that i dont want to

i would call it dogs of wor because i always thought the blue ones were dogs the red ones were tigers and the yellow ones were lions i guess there is no way that galaga will fit on a supercharger

i use 2 games galaxian i use the keypad each button corresponds to a level so i press 1,reset,2,reset... and the number shows in the upper corner then i use dig dug for up down left right and both buttons throw the air hose but popeye is a good one to test down with the ladder in the center missile command is good for checking if you hit all corners and for jitter or bad areas on the potentiometers but its not very useful

a 5200 tracball does not have a jack for additional items but you could plug the tracball into the wico y cable

late nite youtoobin lead me to "world of sports" on the amstrad and wham there was that oddball bmx game i though it was some kind of one off creation since every other version of california games was that dirt track full of logs and tires and not this hilly lawn of death with haybails you all probably know this but it was shocking to see lynx bmx on another system

i didnt mean to criticize yea they look great so clean i just feel bad people cant play pole postion with it i almost want to offer to install a hi/low switch for $10 and use these kerjiggers https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pcs-AC-ON-OFF-SPDT-2-Position-Latching-Toggle-Switch-DT/252501590734

those are pretty cool seems like a waste of a good connector to not put a 15 pin male passthrough connector on it i know cutting a rectangle hole is kind of hard and you have to do a couple slight bends to fit those controller nubs ooh what am i thinking just another hole out to a wire with a plug on it kind of like they did with the competition pro

with the breakout boards you should not have to cut into an extension cord but it must be one of the extension cords that have the plastic ends not metal clad cause the metal shielding put the contacts out of reach for the 5200 you can see in my above pics i just use old solid wire eithernet cord i got when a school near me demolished a temporary solid wire is easy to strip and solder but is more fragile and subject to flex breaking i wish i stuck to a standard but all my batches have different colors to the contacts i used to try to keep the orange be the +5 and the green be the button ground but i gave up and just do my batches however i make the first one by having 8 wires it allowed me to run the 2 unused to the start button which i always left the brown and white brown

i just do not have confidence in the blue plugs from china there may be good ones and bad ones but its impossible to know until they arrive the problems i run into is sometimes the solder cups are not well tinned and solder just wont stick another problem is the holes on the female side are a bit too small for the 5200 pins and can break them off when you pull the plug out another problem is the little contacts inside can be oxidized (super random) and not make a good connection the male pins seem to not have locking bulges and can push right out the back the last good ones i made were those silver housing ones i found someone with some old stock plugs its super annoying to go through all the work then find a bunch that have problems sure i run into a couple where i put the wrong wire somewhere but when it fails and i did nothing wrong its just not worth it i try to keep the costs low but having to deal with just one return repair and resend puts me in the red also 5200 is not my favorite system i'm a commodore 64 guy

if anyone wants to make their own with an extension cable and 2 breakout boards the reason i use a jumper between pins 4 and 5 is i found some kraft joysticks used pin 5 also if you want to use buttons 3 and 4 of a pc joystick those are pins 10 and 14 of the joystick so you could run a wire from them to 5200 pins 14,13

no its not properly designed they just took one of their standard sticks which are intended to be ambi but when used as a 2 button stick how can you rapidly press button one and button 2 its just not ergo also using the 5200 controller as the trim controls it was just a thrown together stop gap

a top down indy500 or a champion sprint would have been cool i like the 5200 but the commodore 64 is my first choice

pole position always bugged me i mean you bust your ass to be the top of the pole you start the race and then find out there are jerks already on the track the whole point of the pole position is to not have to deal with slowpokes till you lap them

thanks for the report on another 5200 controller complaint now nobody has to click a listbait vid

the ibm/apple one may work with the adapter but they are very old and their potentiometers are probably very worn and dirty ive had much trouble with the plug ends i got 2 females that solder just doesnt stick to the contacts so i only made 9 so there is not any available for people who were not waiting i will not be making any more untill i find better quality plug ends

this project wasnt paddles it was paddle ive rigged up paddles its hilarious trying to play missile command and star wars like you are running an etch-a-sketch

i know this is not the right forum to be selling but i know you guys let me slide i want to let you all know i am working on a batch its going to take me some time just hang in there. i got all the parts rounded up i dont have anymore of the little pushbuttons i use for a start but i have 10 clicky buttons from mice i'll use. at least 5 are spoken for and i'm making 10 i'll contact all you that emailed me when they are done. they will be $13 shipped anywhere in the usa

what i would do is with the controller apart pop in missile command and make sure the lefty righty pot arm is in the 6 oclock position when the crosshairs are centered sometimes its hard to get the actuator plate to grab the pot arm when reassembling

wow i have not seen that many connections for legitimate use since sonic 2 with knuckles in a genie on a 32x or course the height winner is still a supercharger in a 2600 adapter its hilarious that you used that adapter i only made a few of because that is technically a 5200 to wico with a wico to pc gameport adapter i was so dissapointed he never did the punching bag to barreldrop on bluto

the joystick is basically 2 paddles 0 resistance on both (a short) means joystick up and left infinite resistance (open circuit)means right and down before opening the console i would take apart the controller and verify that none of the wires in the cable are broken (a common occourance(near the plug end) you really only need to check pins 9 to 10 and 9 to 11 even without opening it and using a multimeter set to 100kohms-1megohm with a little paperclip atached to each probe one in pin hole 9 the other in pin hole 10 you should see resistance if not sometimes a jiggle will connect the wire that took a bad bend its hard to trouble shoot without a known "good" the trackball uses pin 12 (bottom row center) so if there is an issue its with pin 9 bottom row leftmost (dont quote me though i may be wrong i'm more used to seeing the pins from the backsides and upside down)

are all pins accounted for in port 1 mainly the 7 on the bottom going to the right and down is the same as no controller plugged in so you have tried the same with no controller plugged in?