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raam

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Posts posted by raam


  1. When the grid appears, do some checking with a voltmeter. Be sure you have -5 V and 5 V steady at the shutdown time.

     

    My guess, and this is a shot in the dark, your -5V line is dropping out after the power supply warms up.

     

    C

     

    Shutdown time ? So if the -5v line is dropping out this would mean exactly what ? I'm a newbie and need things spelled out. LOL thanks


  2. Here's an update. I pulled out the game and took out the boards to have a look. I couldn't see anything suspect so I reinserted them after cleaning the conectors. Now it will come on and I can play but after about 5 min or so it stops and goes back to the grid screen again. Bummer, I thought it would be easy. I 'll take them out again and reflow the solder and if I have to swap the boards. What do ya think ? Oh and any more info on the reset error would help. thanks


  3. Thanks for the replies guys. Crazy, I'll let you know, thanks. Yes, these were the ones in Wilmington. The seller said he got the one working sort of. He swapped boards but the monitor took 20 min to "warm up" and then he said it was blurry.


  4. I just picked up three of these the other day. Between all three, I should be able to get one to work. I have extra boards, monitor, and other pieces for them. I have never put one together before so I may need to ask for assistance. Like, where do I start ? LOL

    post-11364-1164737824_thumb.jpg


  5. Now that my Asteroids is up and running I'm going to try and get my SID working. The game powers up to the attract mode and then immediately a grid of squares appears in the middle where the title was. It then just refreshes this grid forever. When I got the game it worked for a few days before this happened. I have a untested pcb and daughter card for it I will swap but thought there might be a easy fix first. Not saying that swapping pcbs isn't easy, just a waste if I can get the old one working.

    try looking at your connector first. then at the connector from main pcb to daughter card. if you run into a dead end there try swapping out just the z80 chip. if that still doesent work then you probably have a reset circuit error. please post your findings. I have the same game and have had simular problems. I got past the grid problem but then about 6 months later the board went dead again and I haven't torn in to it again

     

    I'll give it a go. Is that how you fixed yours, by swapping the chip ? What is this " reset circuit error " ? Sounds like a power problem of sorts.


  6. Now that my Asteroids is up and running I'm going to try and get my SID working. The game powers up to the attract mode and then immediately a grid of squares appears in the middle where the title was. It then just refreshes this grid forever. When I got the game it worked for a few days before this happened. I have a untested pcb and daughter card for it I will swap but thought there might be a easy fix first. Not saying that swapping pcbs isn't easy, just a waste if I can get the old one working.


  7. I did for the Asteroids. My pacman and galaga had them built in as part of the anniversary cab.

     

    Takes about 5 minutes to do the asteroids upgrade using that daughter board just be careful taking the chips out and ensure you're putting them back in the right orientation.

     

     

    I think I'll get one. I'd also like to fix up the paint on the control pannel, any suggestions ?


  8. Here's an update. I'm back up and running. I got a neon bulb at radioshack and snipped off the resistor and soddered it up. I also found a few crack sodder joints around the pin connectors as well. I took care off those and a few other suspected ones. Works great. If I up the brightness a little I get a few dots, so it may have had some burn in, but I don't know. No problem though cause it's only when you turn it up past the normal. Thanks again for all the help. I hope I can contribute some in the future.


  9. Ok, I found out the neon lamps are NE-2H indicator bulbs. I can get them at mouser but I'll try the local hobby shop first. I hope that is the problem and would make some sense considering it act as a simple voltage regulator. I'll update my progress for the benifit of the forum. Here's a pic of game.

    post-11364-1163268060_thumb.jpg


  10. I [edit -successfully] capped an asteroids machine recently and whilst not an expert it sounds like the spot killer might have kicked in. But you talk about neon tubes on the pcb and that confuses me but it could be that I'm from across the pond (UK). Can you take some pics of the broken pcb part? Do you mean LED?

     

    Hi, thanks for the reply. I'm not up on the spot killer so I'll have to skim through my manual. What exactally does this function do ? I suppose you can consider it an LED. I'm new to all this. I'm going to take a pic and post it tonight.


  11. Hi everyone. This is my fisrt post here and I'd like to say this forum is a blessing. I've seen lots of expert advice and great tips. As for my issue, I've search this site and many, many others to no avail. I am now the proud owner of an Asteroids game. It's in nice shape overall. When I picked up the game it was functioning perfectly but I believe transport may have losened something. When I powered up the game at home, Half the monitor was viewable, meaniing when the vector graphics scrolled past the middle of the screen they dissapeared into the left half of the screen. So I unplugged and took a look around the deflection amp pcb. I found a neon tube with one lead snapped off with the other still attached to the board. So I proceeded to reposition the tube when it totally broke off the leads. So I was currious to see the effect and I powered up the game and noticied that both halfs were now blank. So logic leads me to believe that this is responsible for the problem. After searching everywhere, I located the manual/schematics for the Electrohome G05-802 vector xy monitor. Seems this neon lamp acts as a switch of sorts where it is normally a open circuit until 90vac goes across and ignites the gas and shorts the circuit. I've tried Radioshack, mousers, mmc and few other onlin places to locate this part or a suitable replacement but can't find anything. Other then purchasing a whole crt does anyone have a suggestion as to what to do ? Thanks

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