FastRobPlus

I'm tempted to try this. How did you get the file onto floppy? I'm dubious about just copying it from the CF card in case something is corrupted.

Do remember if the bios updated returned your system to a prompt after executing it?

Same here.

I can confirm what fandenivoldsk says. All carts fail to be seen, regardless of which options I toggle. On my Atari, the resistors were replaced with 1.8s. All other Incognito/Atari 800 functions seem to work fine. One exception: Congo Bongo boots to a solid green, then solid yellow screen.

Great - Thanks for taking time to check!

From this site (I'm not sure if there is anywhere else to get it) Is there a consensus of what a successful bios update looks like? Should it click the internal speaker for a few moments and then go to a brown/grey screen? Or should it return to a prompt of some kind?

Getting closer! I now have the same problems as fandenivoldsk. When I select the file and hit enter, it boots, then seems to hang at a gray screen. It does not return to a prompt. Carts still are not seen, but I'm pretty sure that the update isn't taking. Any ideas? I can confirm the rtc holds time properly.

Ah - great! Can't wait to get home and try this. Is this one of those "You'd see the instructions if you had a PAL system" sort of situations?

can somebody give me the steps to load bios-update.xex into incognito? I tried formatting a CF card as FAT32 and placing the file on the root of that card, then enabling SDX and SIDE, but from here, I'm not sure what to do.

Or even more generally, how to load an XEX file of any kind?

I have a working Incognito and a CF card formatted as FAT32 now. I'm not familiar with SDX or SIDE. Can anyone elaborate on the steps I need to perform to get the bios flash loaded into the system? Thanks!

http://www.thebitplanes.com/archives/207

Agreed. I remember a looong time ago my cousin wanted to play some ancient game on the 1200 and I told him it was impossible (I'd tried everything I could think of to get that game to load) He tried the one combination I didn't think of and had it running in a about 5 minutes. I should probably brush up on these tricks again. My current "main" Amiga is a 3000 with an '060.

Great!

Phoenix. But I notice you didn't mention Rejuvenator. I assume you are not from the U.S.?

I used to use a KS switcher. Honestly, it was so seldom needed that I've stopped. 3.x is fine for almost anything, and WHDLoad for the outliers.

Save2600 gave me an 8MB RAM card (for the 68000 socket) and an A1000 adapter board. I think those are still being made - and cheaply.

My 1000 has a Gary chip, and Kickstart in ROM. And an internal expansion slot. An soon so will Save2600s.

I have no love for either. Remember, the ST has TWO power supplies to clutter the desk! It wasn't until a year later that they integrated the 520 PSU into the unit. But they never got the drive situation sorted out. I like the traditional form factor units much better - (MEga ST, TT, most Amiga). Not only do they have an internal PSU, but you can set the monitor on top of them so they honestly take up less space. The A1000 is still the best form factor of all with the integrated keyboard garage. Obviously, if you do repairs you don't get to pick and choose. It seems like the 500 would be one of the more annoying things to have on the bench.

All 3 low-end Amigas all had external PSUs with idiotic power switches on the power brick only. The one silver lining - they all powered and switched on their external floppy drives through voltage provided by the host computers disk drive port. If you had a 500 you really should seek out a Bodega Bay. But I'm a bit prejudiced against console computers.

I'd avoid any drive that isn't an FZ-357a or 354 for an Amiga 500 since even if you remove the outer housing the drive may not have the correct mounting points, eject location, or disk platen/guide height. It could work electrically but not fit elegantly into the 500's case. You can use an FZ-357a High Density drive in a 500. The steps are: Remove the existing 354 drive from the 500. Remove the outer housing and eject button. Remove the FZ-357a's outer housing and eject button. Install the FZ-357a into the 354's housing, and install the 354's eject button onto this. - This step sometimes requires modification to the hosing, or just a mallet or sledgehammer. Or superglue. Install the modded drive into the A500. The cabling might be reversed. If you want the drive to be seen as an Amiga HD drive, upgrade the 500 with a 2.04 or 3.1 Kickstart ROM. Otherwise the system will treat it as a DD drive only.

It isn't a real price guide. It's a page that makes money by linking into eBay auctions. There used to be a million of them, but they seem to be dying out. I wonder if they don't make the ad revenue that the used to.

On the Amiga side, a lot of the updates are used to power WHDLoad or allow the older systems to play better with OS 3.9, which is pretty inefficient. Does an ST really need these kinds of updates? Even for games, are SCUMM VM, Exult, or those sorts of things around? *edit* Looked it up for myself. ScummVM is out for the ST! Even so, I would think the acceleration is really only needed for the VGA games, since ScummVM does VGA to EHB conversion in real-time on the Amiga. On a stock ST, wouldn't you be limited to running 16-color games anyway? Would you need the extra speed? And on the ST, you have MIDI already, so you don't need to have software MIDI rendering via AHI like MIDI ScummVM games use for Amiga.

The A1000 is far more than twice as capable.