Bluebass

I guess I could start... I ended up buying another system last night because I didn't feel like fooling with my Junior anymore. I bought the Junior With 10 commons and 2 original sticks for $25 I paid $30+shipping for my Vader with 2 third-party sticks, two originals, a set of paddles and 8 games, some of them I already have. What did everyone else pay???

Ended up buying a Vader system with several games (which are duplicates of what I've got) and 4 sticks for $40.

My dad works on Mainframe computers, and used to test circuit boards for his company. I'm giving it to him. He screws around with stuff like this when he's bored.

I'm just gonna buy another system

Alright... now if I bypass the 4050 and it fixes my problems, why put a new buffer back in? What does it do exactly?

How? EDIT: Also, what can I do about the TIA IC?

Do you have a link to his second mod? And where can I get a 4050. I've looked at some electronic dealers and can't find one.

I'm not making a portable. I don't think it is the mod either. I pulled out the Ben Heck's (2 pot version) and tried the one listed in the FAQ for the Atari Jr. That didn't change anything. It still looks exactly the same. As far as PAL or NTSC, I live in Tennessee, but I bought the Atari online. I can't remember where the seller was exactly, but he was state-side. I would assume the system is from the US also but who really knows. He claims the system was working perfectly, but then again, he didn't send me anything to connect it to a TV. I wonder if he even tested it.

No, the mod I did was Ben Heck's composite output mod. Just to make things simpler I'll put all the symptoms in one place: 1. trigger buttons don't work from either port. Tried two sticks w/ same results. 2. B&W picture is none existant. I flip the switch to B&W and the screen turns completely black. 3. While in color mode, the colors are really messed up. I can get blue red green and black. I have yet to seen any lighter colors, i.e. white, or lighter variations of blue or green. Color is affected by the pot, but is never even close to the correct colors. I've never worked on a Atari, and I'm quite the novice when it comes to electronics. I've fiddled around with it as a hobby. I am sure I had the mod hooked up correctly, though. I believe I may have discharged a capacitor on the right side of the board opposite the RF circuit. about midway between the top and bottom of the board. I'm not sure though. I didn't smell any ozone, and nothing is visibly fried. P.S. as I understand it, you can't chop the atari Jr into the 4 inch square to do the portable version. At least, I think that's what Ben wrote. right or wrong??

BTW, the TIA makes sense. I don't have B&W at all no matter how the pot is adjusted. The TIA controls that too from what I've read. Right?

I've tried several carts and adjusted the chroma pot to no avail. Where can I get a TIA IC and a 4050 buffer?

Does the 4-switch system use the same power supply as a Atari Jr. ???

7805 is putting out 5.06V. Is it possible that I discharged a capacitor somewhere, and something else went on it? I accidentally brushed the board and heard a pop. I didn't smell any ozone, and I couldn't visually see any fried parts.

I'm not sure why, but I can't get the colors to adjust right with the Ben Heck. AND the trigger button isn't working for either port. I'm looking for a schematic so I can test it. I had never even seen the inside of a 2600 until last night.

Does anyone have a schematic of the Atari Jr. I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my atari Jr. I just bought it on EBay with no RF switch, so I wasn't able to check it before the mod. Now, the trigger doesn't work from either control port. Also, I can't seem to get the color adjusted right.