Loccy

So, I've observed it a little more closely. Up until now, I've left it on while I've been doing other things, usually at the Astrosmash title screen, and have come back to the black screen. Observing it, after a while the picture seems to break up quite impressively, flashing colours, like a loose RF connection, enough to make me go "blimey, think I'd better turn that off before it goes kaboom". So, I don't know whether that was a precursor to the black screen, or whether that is something new. But having opened it up, it doesn't look terrible. There is one component that looks like it is leaking gunk (in the third pic, on what I assume is the main motherboard), but all the big power supply capacitors look pretty fresh to the eye. I am pretty much out of my depth at this stage, though. Is it worth buying another "untested" on eBay UK? There's plenty of those, and there's another one that apparently works but only gives a black and white screen output. Perhaps by their powers combined they could be Captain Intellivision? Edit: I bought the second one. Let's see how that goes...

It generally comes back on immediately. But my gut feeling is that it gets worse with time, i.e. it lasts an increasing shorter and shorter period of time with each passing power cycle. Then the next day it'll be back to where it was. But that might be me just looking for it (I've not done any scientific timing!) If it is a heating problem, what is the most practical solution?

Hi all, Atarian reporting in again with his INTV on the side. She's still being a bit stroppy, unfortunately. The machine will work for a time before the screen just goes black. Powering it off and on will usually bring it back for a time, until eventually it goes black again. Any ideas? I've seen people on Reddit suggesting cleaning the cartridge port, but that doesn't make much sense to me - surely it'd work, or it wouldn't? And if that is a legit suggestion, any recommendations on HOW one can clean the cartridge port?

A quick update - replacing the innards of the controller and reconnecting it did the trick! I now have two working controllers. Still no working reset button, but there you go, I can live with that. Not sure if nick3092 was referring to RWAP fvrom SellMyRetro, but if so, yes, he's excellent.

Looking at the tracings, there's a big "hole" (worn) towards the left side of the disk. This is consistent with my initial experience of Astroblast with the right hand side controller, i.e. I was only semi-in control and it wanted to zoom left all the time. I suspect a few mashes on the controller was enough to finish it off and I suspect it's shorting left on a permanent basis now. I've ordered some replacement parts from a chap in the UK who's really good - have ordered Sinclair and other stuff from him in the past - so I expect to get that in the next couple of days. Then all that's left is the reset button! Next time I have it open I'll try the "lots of contact cleaner" gambit.

You sir, are a steely-eyed missile man. Unplugged controller 2 and suddenly I can start Astrosmash and Lock 'N Chase (which I've also since bought). For now, I've just left it loose inside unplugged. Suggestions on how I can fix it, anyone?

So I opened the puppy up and I think it's the switch. I managed to get Nova Blast to respond to me holding down the metal dome with the machine open a couple of times. It wasn't reliable, and it only worked a couple of times. I suspect I might have finished it off. I can live without reset for now. That's what's throwing me. Reset button aside I think this puppy's in good shape for it's age and how it's been treated (STINKS of cigarette smoke!). But Astrosmash not working doesn't seem to make any sense. Bad cartridge, perhaps? Would a bad cartridge show the splash screen and then crash? Is that plausible?

...as I have no idea what I'm supposed to do with the thing and whether it's working as it should be. So I picked up an Intellivison for cheap on eBay, sold as untested, originally wanting it for display only. However, I thought I'd try plugging it in and was surprised when it booted up. PAL UK, plugged into an old LCD that has an analogue tuner. I have two cartridges, Astrosmash and Imagic's Nova Blast. I tried Astrosmash first of all. The first time I tried Astrosmash, I got the opening splash screen. I had no idea what I was doing, so I picked up the RIGHT controller (as it was the first one to hand), mashed a few buttons, and the game started. However, I didn't actually seem to be in control. My ship at the bottom seemed to want to crawl left most of the time, and if I moved right, I could, but when I released it it would move left again. I then tried Nova Blast. I had a bit more luck with this, especially after I realised the LEFT controller was the default. I pressed 4 to select Cadet (according the the overlay) and pressed Enter to start the game. Serviceable Defender clone. WTF were Mattel thinking about with that controller, though? When the game was over, I pressed Reset (on the console). Nothing happened. Should it? I then went back to Astrosmash, now realising I should have been using the LEFT controller all along. I coudn't get it to go past the splash screen. Pressed buttons like a lunatic. Tried pressing the reset button. All that happened is I got a bit of interference on the screen. Tried mashing buttons on the RIGHT controller again. Still couldn't get it to start a game. Am I missing some Intellivison UI conceit here? Am I supposed to do something else to make Astrosmash start? Is the console knackered? Is the cartridge knackered? Should Reset do something? Meanwhile, Nova Blast seems to play fine. There's minor wobbles on the screen display and occasional flashes of green (not sure if that's the game or interference/screen distortion). As I don't know what equates to normal in Intellivison-land, I don't know whether I should spend any more time on the console or not...

(duplicate post - sorry)

Yep, based on what I've read I'll be holding off for now. I am predominantly PAL.

Meanwhile all the posh kids went home to their BBC Micros, while both Spectrum and 64 kids laughed at the pathetic versions of classic games like Manic Miner the Beeb had (Elite aside)

Count me in too, if you're still looking. Most of my cartridges are PAL, both 7800 and 2600 among them. As an interesting aspect, however, I have an ARM based Windows machine which I can try the updater on, which might be helpful to you.

Mine is very picky about the power adapter I use. It's a bit Goldilocks. I first tried it with an old Amazon Fire power adaptor. Nothing. I then went total overkill and tried my laptop power brick. Nothing. I found an old Samsung adapter and that was, as they say, "just right". So try different power adaptors. You want something that will charge a decent sized tablet without it complaining about inadequate power, I think.

I think you you just have a dodgy 10-in-1 cartridge rather than a dodgy 2600+. How does the 4-in-1 fare on the 2600+ (rather than the Vader)?