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retrobits

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About retrobits

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  1. I just received my SDrive Max (in tiny 810 replica case) from Gavin (vintagecomputercenter.com) today. Works great! Glad to hear that new firmware is already out.
  2. congratulations on building this! Regarding pin 16, it should be disconnected from the Atari. I elected to just desolder pin 16 from the circuit board in the adapter box and pull the pin out of the scart connector. from my post #8 I desoldered and removed pin 16 (so I don't have to open my scart cables to snip the wire) and wired a switch to +5V and the pin 16 pad. The only tricky bit was that the circuit board pad for pin 16 has connections both on the bottom and top of the board. So I needed to carefully apply a little solder to the top of the board at pin 16 where the wire to the switch came thru. If done right, the pin 16 pad should have connectivity to the diode ZD1 (left side when looking at the back of the scart connector). The OP described cutting the wire in the scart cable connected to pin 16. Either way should be fine, but the volts should not be allowed to flow back to the Atari. I've not noticed my adapter box getting warm. How long is it on before you notice its warm?
  3. I think it was left off of those initial drawings because it doesn't affect the video output and was not important for the design discussion at the time. The cable I use has sound connected and it works great. The wiring connections for my Atari=>Scart cable are fully described in post 31. I recently took it apart and checked all the connections with a multimeter.
  4. A light sixer for christmas in '79 bundled with Combat. Also got Circus Atari, Pac Man, Asteroids, and Space Invaders at the same time.
  5. good feedback galax. OK folks, here is the updated diagram Scart Atari 2 <-------------- 1 (audio) 6 <-------------- 1 (audio) 7 <-- 150 Ohm --- 10 (blue) 8 <-------------- 8 (???? mistake in my cable?) 11 <-- 150 Ohm --- 6 (green) 15 <-- 150 Ohm --- 7 (red) 18 <-------------- 13 (ground) 20 <-- 510 Ohm --- 12 (v-sync) 20 <-- 510 Ohm --- 9 (h-sync)
  6. OK, not sure what's up with pin 8. I read that pin 8 on the Atari is "reserved" and pin 8 on scart signals aspect ratio. It might be a mistake on my cable, likely has no effect.
  7. OK, I took my cable apart and checked all the pins between Atari and Scart. The following are the connections. Anything not listed is not connected. Scart Atari 2 --------------> 1 (sound) 6 --------------> 1 (sound) 7 --> 150 Ohm --> 10 (blue) 8 --------------> 8 (composite/rgb switch) 11 --> 150 Ohm --> 6 (green) 15 --> 150 Ohm --> 7 (red) 18 --------------> 13 (ground) 20 --> 510 Ohm --> 12 (V-Sync) 20 --> 510 Ohm --> 9 (H-Sync) and some reference pics: scart wiring even pins 2-20 and here are odd pins 1-21
  8. I'm away from my Atari until next week, but when I get back I'll check and document the connections in my cable. I bought it from the same company in the UK as you did a few years ago.
  9. I would buy a completed cart board. No smd soldering for me.
  10. Have you tested the scaler device with another computer or game system? The first one I ordered from Amazon produced output similar to that and it turned out to be defective.
  11. @spawnerbr, are you connecting the 1040STF directly to the display with the scart cable or are you using a SCART to HDMI scaler device? In other words, is your setup like this: Atari => Scart cable => display or this Atari => Scart cable => Scart to HDMI scaler => Hdmi cable => display ?
  12. Oh man, I'm going to play Dino Dudes right now! The music has already started in my head
  13. I just wanted to share some pics of my latest project. Its a Gotek Floppy Drive emulator device, flashed with the newest version of the HxC2001 firmware, and mounted in a 354 drive. The 354 was an old Chinon-mech unit (non-standard floppy interface) so I just used some 1-pin male-to-female Dupont jumper wires to make the connection. (poobah posted the Chinon pin mapping here http://atariage.com/forums/topic/211924-old-atari-sf354-hxc-floppy-emulator/?do=findComment&comment=2747223). If you try this, take care to measure the voltage on the power connector as I had it wired in backwards at first and fried a USB stick (the Gotek was unharmed LOL). I de-soldered the USB header from the Gotek and relocated it using parts from an old PC card interface. Also de-soldered and relocated the toggle switches. The instructions for flashing the Gotek and wiring the LCD and additional toggle switch are all on the HxC2001 site http://torlus.com/floppy/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1683. I used a cheap Dremel knock-off (WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft - $20 on Amazon) to do the cutting and I think it came out fairly well for my first attempt. Next steps are to make a small gray bezel to cover the cuts and screws, thus making the front look a little cleaner. Also I need to wire the disk activity LED to the 354 case LED. Anyhow, fun project and not too expensive. Gotek device (ebay) - $17 HxC2001 Firmware License - $10 FT232RL FTDI USB to TTL Adapter (for flashing) (ebay) - $4 IC2 16x2 LCD Display (ebay) - $4
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