retrobits

I think it was left off of those initial drawings because it doesn't affect the video output and was not important for the design discussion at the time. The cable I use has sound connected and it works great. The wiring connections for my Atari=>Scart cable are fully described in post 31. I recently took it apart and checked all the connections with a multimeter.

A light sixer for christmas in '79 bundled with Combat. Also got Circus Atari, Pac Man, Asteroids, and Space Invaders at the same time.

good feedback galax. OK folks, here is the updated diagram Scart Atari 2 <-------------- 1 (audio) 6 <-------------- 1 (audio) 7 <-- 150 Ohm --- 10 (blue) 8 <-------------- 8 (???? mistake in my cable?) 11 <-- 150 Ohm --- 6 (green) 15 <-- 150 Ohm --- 7 (red) 18 <-------------- 13 (ground) 20 <-- 510 Ohm --- 12 (v-sync) 20 <-- 510 Ohm --- 9 (h-sync)

OK, not sure what's up with pin 8. I read that pin 8 on the Atari is "reserved" and pin 8 on scart signals aspect ratio. It might be a mistake on my cable, likely has no effect.

OK, I took my cable apart and checked all the pins between Atari and Scart. The following are the connections. Anything not listed is not connected. Scart Atari 2 --------------> 1 (sound) 6 --------------> 1 (sound) 7 --> 150 Ohm --> 10 (blue) 8 --------------> 8 (composite/rgb switch) 11 --> 150 Ohm --> 6 (green) 15 --> 150 Ohm --> 7 (red) 18 --------------> 13 (ground) 20 --> 510 Ohm --> 12 (V-Sync) 20 --> 510 Ohm --> 9 (H-Sync) and some reference pics: scart wiring even pins 2-20 and here are odd pins 1-21

I'm away from my Atari until next week, but when I get back I'll check and document the connections in my cable. I bought it from the same company in the UK as you did a few years ago.

I would buy a completed cart board. No smd soldering for me.

Have you tested the scaler device with another computer or game system? The first one I ordered from Amazon produced output similar to that and it turned out to be defective.

@spawnerbr, are you connecting the 1040STF directly to the display with the scart cable or are you using a SCART to HDMI scaler device? In other words, is your setup like this: Atari => Scart cable => display or this Atari => Scart cable => Scart to HDMI scaler => Hdmi cable => display ?

Oh man, I'm going to play Dino Dudes right now! The music has already started in my head

I just wanted to share some pics of my latest project. Its a Gotek Floppy Drive emulator device, flashed with the newest version of the HxC2001 firmware, and mounted in a 354 drive. The 354 was an old Chinon-mech unit (non-standard floppy interface) so I just used some 1-pin male-to-female Dupont jumper wires to make the connection. (poobah posted the Chinon pin mapping here http://atariage.com/forums/topic/211924-old-atari-sf354-hxc-floppy-emulator/?do=findComment&comment=2747223). If you try this, take care to measure the voltage on the power connector as I had it wired in backwards at first and fried a USB stick (the Gotek was unharmed LOL). I de-soldered the USB header from the Gotek and relocated it using parts from an old PC card interface. Also de-soldered and relocated the toggle switches. The instructions for flashing the Gotek and wiring the LCD and additional toggle switch are all on the HxC2001 site http://torlus.com/floppy/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1683. I used a cheap Dremel knock-off (WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft - $20 on Amazon) to do the cutting and I think it came out fairly well for my first attempt. Next steps are to make a small gray bezel to cover the cuts and screws, thus making the front look a little cleaner. Also I need to wire the disk activity LED to the 354 case LED. Anyhow, fun project and not too expensive. Gotek device (ebay) - $17 HxC2001 Firmware License - $10 FT232RL FTDI USB to TTL Adapter (for flashing) (ebay) - $4 IC2 16x2 LCD Display (ebay) - $4

Thanks Kevin! I've attached some screenshots for Jason

Very strange. I've tried different browsers and different networks at home & work. When you try to repro the issue do you log out of archive.org first?

Fantastic job. You must have been working on this for years. I assume you strip the comments to actually assemble it with Mac/65?

Kevin, thanks so much for working on this -- these interviews are just fantastic. I'm slowly working my way through all of them during my commute. Recently I tried to listen to Gray Chang from here https://archive.org/details/Atari_Gray_Chang_Interview however, when I try to download the mp3 or ogg file there I get the message "The item is not available due to issues with the item's content." Claim Jumper is one of my favorite games of all time. I remember waiting to play with a childhood friend for what seemed like forever while the game loaded from my 410. I still play it today.

If anyone is wondering, the solution to my "10 second directory navigation" slowness problem was to just use the older version of the Atari ST HxC manager http://hxc2001.com/download/floppy_drive_emulator/ST_Fileselector_1_9b.zip Jeff let us know that the newer 2.x version attempts to sort the files which has some serious performance problems at this point. I'm not sure if the OP has found a solution to his "5 minute" problem yet.

I have the same setup and I'm not seeing the same slowness, although I think it should perform much faster than it currently does. I was testing this today and I have all the pompey pirates (113 files) and automation images (2029 files) on a Sandisk Ultra Fit USB 3.0 16GB formatted Fat32. I see the manager software clock for about 10 seconds between directories. I tried grouping files in subfolders and even removing all the automation images to see if I could speed it up, but nothing improved the directory content loading. As a comparison, my Atari 800 can list that number of files and navigate on an SIO2SD device in sub-second times. So, I think its a little slow at 10 seconds -- annoying but still usable. 5 minutes is definitely not usable. Maybe try different USB sticks & disk formats? We should probably start a thread about this in the HxC2001 support forum.

Hi all, Back in the 80s, I had a plain old 520 ST so I have a fondness for the form factor of those and also the port/switch placement. Recently I acquired several original 520 STs. Two are stock with 512K and two have upgrades, one with 1MB, the other with 2.5MB. What is confusing to me is why there would be differences running software on these machines versus the 520/1040 STF(M) of which I have several (also stock). I assumed the only difference was built in disk, power supply, and RF out for the (M) versions. All of these machines have TOS 1.0 US version since I really only use them for games. At first I thought there was something wrong with one or two of the 520 STs. But now that I've tested all 4, I can see that there really is a difference in the way some software is run. OK, so here is one difference I've found. On every 520 ST machine I own, upgraded memory or not, the Automation 97 menu displays with only the top scrolling bar: while on my 520 STF and my 1040 STFM, the top and bottom scrolling bars are shown. Does anyone know why there would be a difference like this? Its mostly out of curiosity as to why this would be happening that I ask this question. For reference Automation 97 disk version that I'm testing with is named "Automation Menu Disk 097 (19xx)(Automation)[a].st" in the TOSEC archive. I suspect googling for that filename will yield a download if you need it. It runs with both top and bottom bars on the emulator (SainT).

Just a word of warning on ordering this scaler. The first one I received looked like this, with the "Panlong" branding and part number. It was defective and only occasionally displayed a washed out, colorless image from my SNES RGB input. I couldn't get anything else to display at all. I almost gave up at that point but after re-reading all the reviews on Amazon for these devices I thought that I might have received a bad one. I returned it for replacement at no cost and received this more generic looking model, without "Panlong" branding. The ports & buttons were identical. This second unit is the one I've modified as above and is working 100%. I didn't take the first one apart (I should have thinking back on it), so I don't know if the branding is the only difference. I'm wondering if it was old stock vs new stock, or perhaps I just got a defective unit. More reports from the community will hopefully make this more clear. There are many different sellers on Amazon who appear to be selling the identical unit, sometimes with slightly different branding.

It automatically detects 50/60Mhz and displays either over HDMI just fine. I did check this when loading Automation menu #97 and toggling with the 0 key. There is a very brief flicker in the display when it switches. Another very minor difference in the HDMI output is that the screen image is shifted to the right a few pixels when I toggle. NTSC is slightly taller, while PAL is slightly wider. The difference is not very significant, especially when viewed on a wide screen HDMI display. The HDMI scaler device will output 720p, 1080p (both of which are stretched to the full width of the HDMI display). Also it will output 1024x768 and 800x600 in standard Atari ST 4:3 aspect ratio. All my screen pictures above were taken with the 1024x768 output mode.

Why does the app require "find accounts on the device" permission?

Nope, I don't see any "jailbars", I believe they are referred too, that typically plague modern displays. Nor do I see any pixel loss or weird text compression due to scaling. I am super happy with this setup. FYI, this is the hdmi scaler I bought from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D86UYBS The monitor I'm using is this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116479, purchased a few years ago. (ViewSonic VX2453mh). Its nothing special, basically just the cheapest LED monitor with multiple HDMI inputs I could find at the time.

Medium res is not perfect, but very good. Speaking for myself, I think that many of the differences I see are from being used to the tiny SC1224 monitor, while my HDMI display is much larger and can look a little "blocky" as a result.

Here's display output from my 1040STF. Looks fantastic in person! I used the Scart to HDMI scaler discussed above and also modified the "standard scart cable" that syncs on composite video according to the diagram below from Anemos. Just wire together the HSync and VSync and two 510 ohm resistors. This configuration works on STF machines with no composite output and is also improved on STFM machines with composite video in my testing. NOTE: According to the designer this cable should only be used with the HDMI scaler device -- not TVs with scart inputs.

FYI, here is the A/V to scart converter I use in conjunction with the Scart to HDMI scaler discussed above. The device scales good old composite video very well and makes it look quite good on modern displays. The actual screen output is much better than the photo. For some reason my camera washed out the colors in Bounty Bob, but in reality they are clear and vibrant.