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BigO

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About BigO

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    48 of 50 US states
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    http://atariage.com/forums/topic/262372-closedone-trak-play-atari-2600vcs-games-with-your-5200-trak-ball/

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  1. Thanks for all of your work on this. If you get bored and want to add a menu to another classic, I vote for Circus Atari. It doesn't have a zillion variants. It's just a game I like.
  2. That's pretty much the way I see it. I don't have a problem with the business model. He's got an investment to recoup. He may never even get to breakeven if he tries to cater to cheapskates like me while also serving those who find value in the more expensive (and hopefully more profitable) offering.
  3. I'm waiting for that myself. I have no boxes in my collection. Back in the olden days, we threw the packaging materials away. I'd have serious heartburn about throwing away a $10-$20 box. I understand why people want boxes, and I want to support the authors of games that I like, but the boxes don't add value for me so they end up being a hindrance to me buying for now. It's just video games. I can wait.
  4. Whatever you decide to build in the vein of a Circus style paddle game, I'll play it.
  5. I think it's worth a try. I think I may even have suggested an analog switch early on in this thread.
  6. One idea. Pretty generic output can be used with many systems. If someone wrote a game to directly detect and respond to digital inputs, that would include the 5200.
  7. I failed to see the part that says touching the solder point on the board also stops the jittering. In that case, I don't know what the problem is. Since that circuit is already feeding a .1 uf capacitor, I would expect that adding a few picofarad by touching it would have much effect. If it really is only a problem with Kaboom as observed by willis, then there's not really any reason to do anything. If so, also does make me curious exactly what the cause of the jitter is in Kaboom. I always assumed that it was programmed to be overly sensitive to a minute change in resistance, or something like that. I haven't really studied the problem, but guess that it jitters at resistance values very near the threshold of a change to the next screen position. Now I'll have to poke around and see if anyone has determined the actual root cause of the Kaboom jitters. I hadn't thought to check that behavior with the digital paddle experiments I've been tinkering with. I might try to use a high precision potentiometer which is not so subject to slight movements as the standard paddle. Does the jitter only happen after a movement, or will it continue to jitter with a completely stable input. Does it jitter when bombs are not dropping? (just some notes for my future self)
  8. Try touching that contact with something nonconductive like a wooden skewer. If you can reproduce the results using that, then there is probably a mechanical problem with how that terminal connects to the resistive material in the potentiometer. If you know how to solder, you could also try replacing that pot with the one from the other controller to confirm that the problem is directly with the potentiometer. I suppose you could even just move that wire over to the unused terminal on that pot. It would make the paddle work backward, but it would help identify the problem.
  9. I can probably find an unmarked one if that would be useful.
  10. I wouldn't put much faith in those markings. I may have marked them at different times for different reasons after acquiring different information.
  11. The Atari paddle has a 0 to 1 Megohm potentiometer so that doesn't narrow down the options very much.
  12. As you wish. (More of my handwriting on this side. If meaningful, I could probably dig up a board that doesn't have my handwritten additions.) Maybe this will help: http://archives.dickinson.edu/artifacts/atari-lab-computer-start-kit-c1980 Digging through the site a little bit, they say they're in Carlisle, Pennsylvania which matches the State and City of your Wikipedia linked Dickinson College. So, I'd say yes.
  13. I dug out one of my boards. It does have the same copyright info. But where the board in the link is marked "01-M8325", mine is marked "01-M8325-01" and where the linked board is marked "CH5", mine is marked "CH5 94V-0" I'll post a picture shortly. It looks like I marked it up with a Sharpie to trace which color wire went where. (Aside: I know that I used one of the cables to fix/mod a WICO trackball controller and another to build a custom Vectrex controller from a NES controller. I think I used another to build a mod to let me play 2600 games with a 5200 trak-ball controller. I think I paid $1.00 each for the units. I vaguely recall posting something on AtariAge trying to figure out what they were). Looks to be a pretty significant revision.
  14. I like the ability to view replies "inline" in Recent Status Updates without having to go to the poster's profile. (Assuming that functionality is part of this skin). Would it be possible, when convenient, to also expand the original status update when displaying the replies? If a longer original status update is truncated for space, it remains that way even when the replies are expanded. (Win10 Version 1809, Chrome Version 75.0.3770.100)
  15. I have several of these boards laying around somewhere. I bought them surplus many years ago and used the enclosures and cables for something else. I don't recall them having "corrections" on them. I also don't recall them having a college name on them as in the linked images. I'll have to take a look next time I'm in that storage area. I've wondered if they had an overlay but hadn't seen one until looking at the OP's link.
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