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BigO

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Everything posted by BigO

  1. Thanks for all of your work on this. If you get bored and want to add a menu to another classic, I vote for Circus Atari. It doesn't have a zillion variants. It's just a game I like.
  2. That's pretty much the way I see it. I don't have a problem with the business model. He's got an investment to recoup. He may never even get to breakeven if he tries to cater to cheapskates like me while also serving those who find value in the more expensive (and hopefully more profitable) offering.
  3. I'm waiting for that myself. I have no boxes in my collection. Back in the olden days, we threw the packaging materials away. I'd have serious heartburn about throwing away a $10-$20 box. I understand why people want boxes, and I want to support the authors of games that I like, but the boxes don't add value for me so they end up being a hindrance to me buying for now. It's just video games. I can wait.
  4. Whatever you decide to build in the vein of a Circus style paddle game, I'll play it.
  5. I think it's worth a try. I think I may even have suggested an analog switch early on in this thread.
  6. One idea. Pretty generic output can be used with many systems. If someone wrote a game to directly detect and respond to digital inputs, that would include the 5200.
  7. I failed to see the part that says touching the solder point on the board also stops the jittering. In that case, I don't know what the problem is. Since that circuit is already feeding a .1 uf capacitor, I would expect that adding a few picofarad by touching it would have much effect. If it really is only a problem with Kaboom as observed by willis, then there's not really any reason to do anything. If so, also does make me curious exactly what the cause of the jitter is in Kaboom. I always assumed that it was programmed to be overly sensitive to a minute change in resistance, or something like that. I haven't really studied the problem, but guess that it jitters at resistance values very near the threshold of a change to the next screen position. Now I'll have to poke around and see if anyone has determined the actual root cause of the Kaboom jitters. I hadn't thought to check that behavior with the digital paddle experiments I've been tinkering with. I might try to use a high precision potentiometer which is not so subject to slight movements as the standard paddle. Does the jitter only happen after a movement, or will it continue to jitter with a completely stable input. Does it jitter when bombs are not dropping? (just some notes for my future self)
  8. Try touching that contact with something nonconductive like a wooden skewer. If you can reproduce the results using that, then there is probably a mechanical problem with how that terminal connects to the resistive material in the potentiometer. If you know how to solder, you could also try replacing that pot with the one from the other controller to confirm that the problem is directly with the potentiometer. I suppose you could even just move that wire over to the unused terminal on that pot. It would make the paddle work backward, but it would help identify the problem.
  9. I can probably find an unmarked one if that would be useful.
  10. I wouldn't put much faith in those markings. I may have marked them at different times for different reasons after acquiring different information.
  11. The Atari paddle has a 0 to 1 Megohm potentiometer so that doesn't narrow down the options very much.
  12. As you wish. (More of my handwriting on this side. If meaningful, I could probably dig up a board that doesn't have my handwritten additions.) Maybe this will help: http://archives.dickinson.edu/artifacts/atari-lab-computer-start-kit-c1980 Digging through the site a little bit, they say they're in Carlisle, Pennsylvania which matches the State and City of your Wikipedia linked Dickinson College. So, I'd say yes.
  13. I dug out one of my boards. It does have the same copyright info. But where the board in the link is marked "01-M8325", mine is marked "01-M8325-01" and where the linked board is marked "CH5", mine is marked "CH5 94V-0" I'll post a picture shortly. It looks like I marked it up with a Sharpie to trace which color wire went where. (Aside: I know that I used one of the cables to fix/mod a WICO trackball controller and another to build a custom Vectrex controller from a NES controller. I think I used another to build a mod to let me play 2600 games with a 5200 trak-ball controller. I think I paid $1.00 each for the units. I vaguely recall posting something on AtariAge trying to figure out what they were). Looks to be a pretty significant revision.
  14. I like the ability to view replies "inline" in Recent Status Updates without having to go to the poster's profile. (Assuming that functionality is part of this skin). Would it be possible, when convenient, to also expand the original status update when displaying the replies? If a longer original status update is truncated for space, it remains that way even when the replies are expanded. (Win10 Version 1809, Chrome Version 75.0.3770.100)
  15. I have several of these boards laying around somewhere. I bought them surplus many years ago and used the enclosures and cables for something else. I don't recall them having "corrections" on them. I also don't recall them having a college name on them as in the linked images. I'll have to take a look next time I'm in that storage area. I've wondered if they had an overlay but hadn't seen one until looking at the OP's link.
  16. I was trying to make a "2-bit" joke about this current Atari non-console. I believe I failed.
  17. Something I was looking for the other day and didn't see was the indent feature. It's there now, so either Al added that, too or my eyesight got better. Either way, I'm grateful.
  18. Yeah, from a technical perspective, the claim about "x bits" never was any more of an apples-to-apples comparison than the clock speed claims in the PC world.
  19. To be fair, I can see how that mistake could be made looking backward through time and seeing the console bittedness going back through the generations of 64-bit, 32-bit, 16-bit, 8-bit...4-bit would be a natural assumption in the regression of the series to an earlier time in history. Current day Atari is even contributing to that flawed thought process. I mean, look how they are exploiting the "retro" concept to arrive at this 2-bit offering.
  20. That sounds more like something from Panda Express than a martial art.
  21. Through duck duck go, I find this and other references using this search: The AtariAge site itself reports that it's still indexing so that might be the issue on that end.
  22. I've never noticed one being tight. That would concern me a little. But if it moves smoothly I would expect it to work. These use mechanical contacts. I have some that are loose enough that I can feel the drag from the contacts when they are engaged. I haven't heard of failures in these controllers so it's probably going to work okay. There's one way to find out. 🙂
  23. In Forums: Recent Status Updates, I'm seeing what appears to be a PM from one member to another (arthurgill to Richard H.) Is that a misused feature, a bug, or ? I successfully replied to it as a test and so the involved parties might know that the message was somehow made public.
  24. The described behavior is a property of the game and/or emulator software. If the software keeps track of the last (calculated) position it can hold that position until it gets more input from the controller. It is true that the driving controller doesn't output a discrete value indicative of a position or steering angle. It outputs signals on two pins. Those two signals only change when the rotary controller position changes. And, to determine a direction of motion, the software would need to keep track of the previous reading. Only one of these two signals/bits can change at a time. Holding a turn on a long corner could be a matter of just not turning the controller. But, if the software decides to self-center after some amount of time, that would be the software author's choice. That's not like a real steering wheel, but they could choose to do that. On the other hand, a real steering wheel's position does correlate to a physical turn angle (more like a potentiometer) whereas any meaning in the rotary driving controller's position is derived from comparing the current output state to the previous output state. I have a prototype controller on my bench that tracks relative rotary controller (quadrature encoder) input and outputs an absolute value. For a particular mode, my software will return the output to "center" after a time, but for another mode I will have it hold the value until more input is received from the encoder. It's a matter of implementation. The "badness", if any, of the driving controller is the low resolution: only 16 state changes (four full quadrature cycles) per 360 degrees. For comparison, the encoder I'm currently using provides 1440 state changes (360 full quadrature cycles) per rotation.
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