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I recently got one of these, and burned a chip with both firmwares, selectable by a switch. See my Twitter-post here for a picture. I used a pair of 27c64, which are easier to come by and also needs relatively little modification to work with the board once programmed: In both cases: Pin 1, 2, 26, 27 and 28, all at the end of the chip, should be soldered together. For dual firmware, pin 2 should be connected to a switch going to VCC and GND instead. Adaption to U32: Pin 21 needs to be lifted and goes to the socket under pin 22. Pin 22 needs to be lifted and soldered to pin 20. Pin 23 needs to be lifted and soldered to pin 26 (and the other pins nr 26 is connected to). Adaption to U33: pin 20 needs to be lifted and soldered to pin 22. pin 23 needs to be lifted and goes to the socket under pin 20. Pin 1, 2, 27, and 28 should hang outside the socket on the PCB. If using U32 like this, E39-E40 and E41-E42 needs to be jumpered. This might involve cutting some PCB-jumpers first. If using both U32 and U33, E49-E50 also needs a jumper.

Alternatively you can run off a 5v adapter if you modify the DC jack so it connects to the regulated side of the power-supply. It should work fine since only the old screen backlight needs voltage on the unregulated side.

There is also Chucks windows version of the original and the official sequel on Steam.

Have patience. Judging from when they usually have news on their page, I guess we might know more by the end of summer.

Seems like you are missing one connector on the lcd connector port. Shouldn't the white one also go there? Double-check the pinout and voltage levels as well. Make sure the system is running around 5V.

I did this mod on a Lynx II some time ago. It works really well, and I guess it is time to post pictures and my personal thoughts from the process. Some thoughts. I used alternate locations for GND and the "Backlight" signal, because I wanted all the power-lines to come from the same place on the PCB. This involved removing some SMD components and soldering on a SMD 0-ohm jumper. I thought about removing the rest of the old LCD power regulator, but figured it wasn't really worth the effort. What I think about the mod? I think the end result is really good. I am however a bit less impressed with the tidyness. For in particular the Lynx II, there could have been a solution using the already existing flat-flex LCD connector, and I would argue that this would be a way cleaner solution. It would also make it a lot easier to replace the LCD if the mod fails at any point in the future. All in all, it's still a really good mod, considering most of the original Lynx screens are pretty much deteriorating away at this point in time. Many thanks to McWill for making these!

Thanks for confirming! Wonder if there is a difference with the Lynx I. I do believe the two to have slightly different timing. Comparing with the emulator, there the "pulsing" row exactly lines up with the upper line on the stage overview screen, and never extends into the next row at all.

Are nobody able to test this? I thought S.T.U.N. Runner was one of the more common games for the system...

I recently did the LCD mod on a Lynx II, and there is this one artifact in STUN Runner I just noticed. I can't remember if it used to be like this before, or if the slower original screen did a better job at hiding it. Some frames, the background of the first lines of the score panel will be green. How much is green seems to depend on factors like how many sound effects are being played or how much goes on at the time. More or less all reference footage I can find of this game is from emulators, so it gives me no certainty if it's supposed to be like this or not. It seems to be something like it in the clips, but the effect starts at the beginning of the first line and very rarely extends into the area with much exposed background. On my unit it seems to start in the middle of the first line and not at the start of it. So, is this normal? Is it due to low battery? Is it due to differences in the Lynx I and II chipset? Or can it be something else?

The 5v will not get power unless a game is plugged in and the on-switch is pressed. This is possible to do, although maybe a bit difficult while simultaneously probing with a multimeter.

Licensing is the keyword there. I agree it's wrong to call it "Homebrew", as long as there is some commercial interest behind it. For me there is licensed games, and unlicensed games. The demand for console hardware is very much bound by the quality and availability of games, so this is something the hardware manufacturer wants to regulate. The NA video game crash of 83 is a prime example of how failing to regulate the console market can go terribly wrong. The fact that companies used licensing as a means of regulation, makes a very strong distinction between licensed games and unlicensed games. Unlicensed games go through a different manufacturing process and quality control than licensed games, very often the distribution method is different as well. By not making a distinction when speaking about the two, you hide this fact.

I just had a look on the Atari Lynx games database here, and I feel both the rarity guide and in particular the general description is starting to become a bit outdated. Things might have been like explained 10 years ago, but since then we have had the growth of social media/information flow and a huge increase of interest in retrogaming. The Atari Lynx is no exception, and it's no longer as easy to collect for it as it used to be. To say that the Lynx is "mostly overlooked by collectors" no longer holds water, judging from the current market prices. When it comes to rarity, opinions and reviews on sites like YouTube can heavily shift demands for previously overlooked games. For a console like the Lynx, this can in turn change the rarity of certain games greatly. So with this I would like to raise the question: should the info be updated more often?

Will do! Was thinking of basing it on this, but with some minor modifications. First of all, I need to add support for mode 2 interrupts, and then I can as well add a register for software-swapping between PAL and NTSC color carrier clock for the video amp/encoder as well! . http://primrosebank.net/computers/mtx/projects/mtxplus/video/Video%20Board%201.02.pdf

Thanks a bunch! Going to make a V9958 card for a 4MHz Z80 desktop. It natively got a 32K bitmap display using a custom video cirquit, but 32K is way too much (pretty good image quality, but very slow to use). In addition to that, it can't easily be synced with the CPU without hardware mods. It will be very nice to have the ability to do flicker-free graphics with fast sprites!

I am reading up on the V9958 at the moment, but there is one thing I cannot find any information on: What will happen if I select 212 line and the GRAPHICS2 or GRAPHICS3 mode? Does it reuse the first character table, does it use a fourth undocumented table after the third one or does it just fill inn the extra lines with empty border? From what I can find, all modes have 256 lines virtual display area, and the physical display is just 192 or 212 of these lines. From what I can guess, I assume most modes will function as described for all the lines in the virtual display area, which means that I should have to account for 256 total lines when setting up the Pattern Nametable or bitmap in non-pattern-based modes. Can someone tell me if my assumption is right, or if the lines outside the physical display area (with no scrolling) are treated differently?