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About tripletopper

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  1. Where can I find Detoxit F5? A chain store name or a mail order website?
  2. Thought of something new. I notice VGA has 15 pins, which may have up to 15 one-way paths if data. Converting it to BNC and back to VGA reduces it to at most 10 paths, and that assumes both paths are used on VGA. I noticed that if i takeout H sync on the left eye and the V Sync on the right eye, I have a slightly rolling picture. Does the Virtual Tap use more than 5 pins on the VGA. If so, i think I found a creative way to rid the sync on each eye selectively. I have these 15 pin dual male couplers, which I need anyway to use a merger. I assume i can needlenose one pin selectively on one side of the "VX adapter" and a different one on the "HX adapter" and have all channels go through except the one on the left eye and the the one on the right, and. everything else should work. I see female mapping everywhere on the internet, but rarely find male mappings. Also I remember Bally Astrocade broke convention by using the opposite gendered end (compared to Atari and later others) to define the pins. If the female pins are labeled: 1 -- 2 --3 --4 --5 --6 --7 --8 --9 --10 -11 -12 -13 -14 -15 The the males should be: (if my understadiing of labeling is correct) -- --5 --4 --3 --2 --1 10. --9 --8 --7 --6 -- -15 -14 -13 -12 -11 If my quick and dirty Google research under "vga pinout" is correct pin 13 is vertical sync, and 14 is horizontal sync. Maybe that would help.
  3. Since this topic exists, might as well write in it an update How does RGB Scart work? I see passive $5 adapters. I assume they are GIGO, (leave it untouched). I assume they take a SCART, and separate it into an RGB signal with sync attached to green. A few questions: 1 can RCA cables hold a main signal and a return signal? 2. Is Video sync a return signal that can be mixed with RCA? 3 since the main signal and return signal arr both separate lanes, then a passive adapter can act in both directions from SCART to RCA and from RCA to SCART. 4. All I need is one green to hook up. So it will be synced with the right eye if left is red and right is cyan. 5. All you need is one sync for it to work. Having 2 causes analog picture errors. Just seeing if RGB SCART is easier to amaglyphize than VGA.
  4. Hello early or today between 2:00 and 3:00 Eastern I did a test of my consoleized Virtual Boy, and a makeshift no solder Jerry rig way to make the left and right eyes merge into an anaglyph picture. I had to use three different VGA to BNC connectors with the red green blue vertical and horizontal all a separate BNC connectors. Then I hooked up BNC connectors the following way. Left eye gets red vertical and horizontal, well right eye gets green and blue. When I played it it was enough of a success where I actually got something on the TV. The red image was standing still however the cyan image was rolling horizontally from left to right. It was also scrolling over once it reached the right hand border. For like maybe two or three seconds I had perfect 3D. That was when the cyan was really close to the center where the red was supposed to be. So maybe do a couple things I bought some bnc y-adapters, and try plugging in horizontal and vertical sync to both, and if one of the two TVs has both verticals or horizontals plugged in it said signal out of range reduce resolution. So obviously based on my amateurish knowledge of electronics, if you plug it into two vertical or horizontal syncs it changes the resolution. I also noticed something really weird on my VGA cables that I got back from my professional installer. One of the VGA pins is missing in all three the same pin in all three if face stuff like a rocket it's in the center column fourth one from the top so just above where the rocket booster. I haven't kept track of all data points, but when I switch the left and the right and when I switch which one gets the horizontal and which one gets the vertical weird things begin to happen like for example the other eye moves, or scrolls from right to left. It's like when you plug a V and H in one device one picture is guaranteed still. But something weird happens when you split it. Maybe here's an interesting question. Based on what I read of the 15 pins the 15 pins have a red green blue data, red green blue returns, hsync vsink, since the red green and blue have both outgoing data and incoming returns. And if I'm correct most of these RF standards are considered two polar meaning there's a regular signal and a ground signal embedded on each of those devices. And since a lot of these analog standards are cross compatible, maybe there's a way to split the v-sync and h-sync in two separate lanes for two separate directions and selectively hook up resync in and resync out so that the chips get the right signal. Also I noticed the focus bar has been removed on the consoleized Virtual Boy. No one decided to work on the focus bar because no one was crazy enough to try both eyes at once until I came along. I don't know exactly where to go from here but I know there's very many smart people on Atari age, and I reported the results I got accurately if you put the sink vsync and async into the same device and put the red green and blue straight from one to the other without y splitting anything, the red picture looks great but the cyan picture scrolls a little bit. Any help? Any suggestions? How would I split the two elements of the BNC connector? Am I assuming too much to talk about the two different elements of a BNC connector and trying to split them? By the way if you want to see my test video put on your red and cyan glasses, look for the July 15th video between 2:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. Eastern on the following twitch Channel my twitch Channel: www.twitch.tv/tripletopper
  5. That would work assuming diy flipping and rewiring is easy and the art makes sense both ways if vanity art is a desired feature. Maybe Hori USA likes my idea because I solved 90 percent of the market issues with Ambidexterity. You brought up, and in a different way, solved the remaining 10% but assumed 100% of the people will be willing to violate warrantee to get a stick. You introduce a different problem, more time and harder skills are needed to change sides. Mine is unplug from one end, plug in other end, and reorient. Yours requires opening, unscrewing screwing, and that's just the case. I don't know if there is a way to do it where the only tools are a screwdriver and your hands. If there isn't that makes it less simple. But really any stick is theoretically reversible, if one doesn't care about art, however if designers have a vendetta against right stickers they could booby trap the pieces with feartures to prevent reversibility, like an asymmetric art board, or hard to undo and redo wiring, which to some people, like me, is anything beyond using a screwdriver and your hands Hey, a DeeJay joystick would be a good reversible vanity joystick theme. Fun ambi fact that most moderate fans of Street Fighter know: The main behind the scenes reason the word "Maximum" is printed on his pants is because that was the combined largest and most suitable to character word that's horizontally flippable when printed vertically. Horizontally flipping sprites only works with using exclusively side-by-side symmetric characters: AHIMOTUVWXYilowx0
  6. Okay I didn't know how integrated the tape drive was with the tuner. But the Sega Game Gear Tuner interfaces via cartridge slot and an external aeriel antenna. .there's also an antenna hole and an AV hole on The Game Gear Tuner. If you consolize a Game Gear, then one plugs in the tuner, it should give you a low ping way to VGA, HDMI, or whatever the Consolized Game Game goes out to with systems that natively have only RF Out, which includes 2600, 5200, and 7800. I couldn't find a "capturing and outstreaming" section in Atari Age. I tried to do that. But since all Atari consoles until Jaguar were RF only, this is an appropriate place
  7. I've got the number one use for that broken VCR. Most of the reasons why the VCRs are broken is because the tape mechanism somewhere is broken. You know what still works well? The NTSC tuner input and AV output. If someone knows how to run the TV circuit and just chop off the tape player without affecting the TV circuit, you could make nice Mini ntsc tuners (or pal tuners or whatever tuners wherever you are in the world) A lot of modern TVs are just skipping the ntsc coding. It has no idea what to do with an Atari 2600 plugged into it. Luckily retrotink.com has some good converters to HDMI. They are all tested to add at most 100 microseconds, when a typical 60 HZ frame is defined as 1666 microseconds, and I know VCR tuners only leave a slight adjustment that could only be felt in light gun games that don't have calibration, IE just the NES, SMS, and 7800 gun games. Do not use one from a DVD recorder because those add a significant enough amount of lag that it throws off light guns totally and doesn't even register a shot, and may even add an extra frame of lag or 2. Probably because it has to digitize the video which adds the lag. The smallest ntsc tuner I have that could convert to composite video is an 8 mm Sony VCR deck. If someone knows how to build such a mini tuner I'll donate a donor VCR and put in some money towards it if it could be significantly miniaturized, mainly by chucking the tape deck. I don't know if they made non-digitized S-Video, Component, SCART, RGB, or VGA VCRS. I would use an MTV box but the Chinese menu is so wonky and I can't tell what's going on half the time, and that's when it's in English. It's always stuck on AV mode though nothing is plugged in the AV. I guess I could live with the tuner in the 8 mm VCR deck. But don't throw out your VCRs if the tuner cards are good. No one makes ntsc tuner cards anymore as far as I could tell except in retro communities. This is probably the easiest source to get them.
  8. Thanks. I know if I want to challenge my friends and fighting games if they ever come over they would need some decent sticks. That's a good one for the Dreamcast. Ask for the pinball buttons I've got three buttons remaining to place to make a perfect 18 button thing if I were to include all eight main buttons all four directions three auxiliary buttons, the left stick in button the right stick in button and the fourth auxiliary button for the switch capture or would be for the PlayStation the touch bar, with the joystick. Buy out the way I told Hori that the mean portion of the test as to whether it passes or fails is whether the main button layout works well as both a pseudo noir as well as a straight six that is ambidextrous. Yes the starting select buttons were there from a specific reason I had during the zeros. Also you got to balance being close enough to be able to block when resuming out of pause in a non-tournament situation, yet far enough to not disqualify you for accidentally pausing in a tournament situation. I know Mad catz has a thing called a start lock. I just wonder if a simple lack of connecting the start button or toggleable interruprion of the start button would prevent accidental pausing. If the start button is assigned one particular pin on my db37 then I just need to switch that could connect and disconnect that one pin put it in between my system and my PCB and it should work. As for pinball buttons I am a fan of pinball but I usually use L and R on modern pads. Or on pre-SNES pads joystick left and the right most thumb button. Should I assume that a pinball box has a tilt sensor that is hooked up to the analog stick so that you can manually simulate trying to get a legal tilt if you normally over tilt with the left stick. Finally is there a place where you could show off your collection of stuff on Atari Age? Originally I was going to post my joystick collection collection here and thought, there probably was a better place for it and when it's up I could link it here.
  9. 1a. That is a straight 8 arrangement with two halves of a joystick that are assembly side by side. If you prefer a noir layout, see above comments about 180-ing a stick 1a is that compartment is not that sturdy then you might have loose parts when trying to ambidextrize it. 2. That model is not authorized for use with any system therefore the casual pick up and play player might ignore it out of fear of invalidating the warranty. 3a. What happens when you do convert it to a right-handed joystick either by inverting it or swapping out the left and right? Will it automatically make a correct index to index mapping of a street fighter stick or are you going to have to hope that there are either in game controller settings or os controller settings? 3b. Not every game is as simple as an index to index map. 2 non fighting games mainly a 2d maze shooter and a schmup respectively called Tutankham and Sidearms will have its buttons reversed if it behaves like it should with Street Fighter 2. 4. That is a PlayStation 3 controller and in my house the PlayStation 3 is basically the old 3D Blu-ray player that occasionally plays a couple games. I played Street Fighter on the 360. 5. My controller could be recycled over and over to other consoles. I've gone so far as have my connection be a db37 to have 37 analog electric pins so that it would work with a ColecoVision in any possible combination of buttons and functions where each function is given a unique ground. Yes there are two different grounds on the Edladdin board on the ColecoVision. Probably the most relevant ones to why it failed on the PS3 markets are reasons number 1 2 3. Four and five are just my personal reasons that are not that popular. By the way if you say it was no big deal to make an ambidextrous design then why haven't other people done it in my fashion if that was already in the air. The only possible reason I could think of is a polo attitude on the part of the fighting game community. First of all if you were in the story of Street Fighter would they ask your favorite character to handcuff themselves while they fight against their opponents. No they fight with all their might and their opponents with all theirs. So in that sense ambidextrous joysticks is in the vein of the Street Fighter story. Second the main reason why arcade tournaments in the 90s didn't have righties was because you have to actually dismantle the arcade do a whole bunch of crazy stuff flip it come back. That was the main reason I never competed back in the day was cuz I knew I'd always be competing with handcuffs in the open market. I understand it wasn't personal, it's just business. But as I said if the business model was to pay out champions and the arcade gets a percentage, then you definitely see ambi layouts on Street Fighter 2. But since the model is currently pay per loss they encourage losing by tying your hands by fighting left hand. Third of all there's actually a practical reason why Polo restricts play to right hand to play. (Notice I did not say "bans lefties", just "bans Lefty play'). In Polo, I could sum that up in a five word phrase: head-to-head horse collisions. In the arcades I understand though it's unfortunate. In a tournament that's byoc or online what would be the prescident for banning Lefty sticks? Who does that harm? We're willing to give the Microsoft a year for the story of "when everybody plays we all win" with their special controller and Nintendo's hands-free NES controller (and rightly so) but do something more common that's less heart tugging, it helps way many more players I'll be it in a lesser extreme manner, you don't say yeah I could use a right-handed joystick, or even I know someone who could use a right hand stick or even acknowledge the fact that a right-handed joystick would be a good option as opposed to not having, you said no one in their right mind would use a right-handed stick, or there's no scientific proof of being better with a right-handed stick, or suck it up, or git good.
  10. First of all most of my problems in Street Fighter 2 were failure to execute, and not flaws in strategy. When you go from consistently losing to everyone to consistently beating everyone, then you could say that that was the difference. Also when you succeed and executing and it becomes second nature then you could concentrate on more the other stuff like watching your opponents spacing managing clock and energy noticing attack patterns of your opponent. But when you're trying to execute in a situation that's not conducive to executing IE wrong handed, you either just cannot pull one off on the spot or you take so focused of an approach that it's telegraphed and blocked or countered. Also Street Fighter 2 is the perfect game for this setup. I saw some posts mocking Street Fighter 4 for having very loosey-goosey controls and then unintended extra long combos were made out of them. The Street Fighter 2 controls were easy enough that if you practice they were easy to execute but hard enough that you have to execute them right and cannot be loosey-goosey about them. Yes it's true when you get to games with looser controllers then the joystick doesn't matter as much then there's no reason to put your "good hand" on the joystick. If you've never played a version of Street Fighter 2 that was local, then you possibly cannot understand this, at least not by personal experience. Also if combos are shorter and vanilla hits are weak compared to specials then there's no good reason to put your good hand on the buttons. Left-handed joysticks were designed in 1985 when American arcade owners noticed that their time per credit went down when the left fire button for right-handed joystick was out of order. Some owners were known to move the left fire button to the right to force left-handed play. And credit lengths went down because less people were used to it by default. The main point is the second Golden Rule says whoever has the gold makes the rules. Who are the most direct consumers of arcade video game makers? The machine owners who put it on streets and Hope average people plunk in quarters. The quarter plunkers themselves are not the primary customers of arcade video game makers. Before when most two player games were either co-op or alternating owners had instead of to shorten lengths of play and forcing left stick with one way to do that. That's because they were paid by the three lives not by the Champions they produce. Trust me if there was an organized Street Fighter 2 tournament, where the arcade owner got 10% of the arcade-versus-arcade play prize money made, and each individual place decided what they were going to use for their setup, there would be no way in hell they turn down right handed players who prefer right handed joysticks. By either shutting out or handcuffing 90% of the players that would plunk in quarters and apply to be that arcade's champion, assuming most of the money was made by the arcade champion and the owner got a cut that would not be the way to make your pool of possible contestants to recruit from bigger. If you were in the high school and didn't have the opposite handed baseball gloves or golf clubs or hockey sticks you would be considered discriminating. There was a long righty waiting line in miniature golf courses in the 70s and 80s and then golf courses became more efficient since the ambidextrous putter was introduced. After that it made the long line get shorter but still just as many people played therefore encouraging more traffic, and there may be an instance where you want to switch hands and instead of walking up to the clubhouse to get the opposite handed Club for one shot you just flip it around. The only alternative to an opposite handed shots would be making an acrobatic percarious shot. It was just a strange artifact from a time when Jamma was heavily about limiting play time on the machine because the less time per quarter the more quarters get plunked. Let's say classic video games became a high school sport. The reason why you want to make it classic video games not modern video games is that the scholastic scene should not influenced by the business scene of the current day version of the game. Street Fighter 2 would definitely be among the classics. It's been around long enough to have established standards. The primary reason why Lefty sticks were instituted was because the companies were making money. Yes it's easy to say in 2008 just go to shoryuken.com and find a custom joystick maker, but in 1994 finding someone who could make a Genesis and SNES joystick that is right handed was a lot harder to come by. Ironically enough the only company that could do it was a company that makes handicapped gaming equipment known as KY Enterprises. Their builds were good enough because they assumed that if you were handicapped you had a technician on call to handle some of the electronics that breaks down with the tools, and it was assumed you got either a partial subsidy from the government or from insurance company or something like that. For the average person (if you define the average person as not a typical KY Enterprise's client, meaning that you're not handicapped but you need a special something) KY Enterprises made shoddy joysticks. It broke down in a week or two. Fixing required soldering and there was no one I knew who could help with that. I would have had to take it to an mechanic but a mechanic wouldn't touch anything that is not Factory authorized. Something that was basically Jerryrigging custom made, the mechanic basically says sucks to be you unless you got enough money that the government is subsidizing it. I know I never made to competing beyond friends cuz I knew that if I were to go anywhere beyond my friends either it would be physically impossible for a right stick to be welcomed in an arcade or else there'd be less friendliness if I just beat them with the right handed stick and they said they didn't have the option to get one. If the Golden Rule says he who has the gold makes the rules, then what would happen if one did have the opportunity to buy a right-handed stick or an ambidextrous stick? Beeshu did carve out that niche and actually did better than any unauthorized joystick maker should do with Nintendo's crackdown on unauthorized equipment. They did have a guarantee better scores or your money back policy. I don't know what the take back rate is but I certainly had better scores with a Beeshu mainly because of the ambidexterity. Beeshu was successful until the number buttons that had to be mirrored on both sides became too expensive to offer ambidexterity. This design is to offer ambidexterity with less buttons. I saw the specific market problem: how to make an ambidextrous joystick competitive with a unidexterous joystick, without requiring the super hard study to figure out what percentage of the game buying market wants to stick right versus stick left. And I think I solved it better than anyone has before. Just so you can walk a mile in another man's shoe even if you could reverse the button functions on the modern operating systems controller config. You still won't get a comfortable contour. Your attack hand would be back cocked. The quick punch would be too far away from your left index finger.
  11. You can look on my own website, sinistersticks.com. Of course I can make it easy for you and upload a stick pic. I understand the plain Jane look is not exactly a great salesmanship. But the reason why it's a plain Jane look is to emphasize what it does have, which is reasonably contoured ambidexterity that could be either used as a near noir or straight six. I've never been the best looking guy but I just been me and in high school lots of ladies like me, not enough for anyone kissed me but, I was the new guy in school and all the ladies seem to already have boyfriends. I was just biding my time being me. So this doesn't have a picture of a famous fighter or fighting game scene. I paid the money to get what counts actually done and that is right-handed joystick. But if it was going to be right-handed anyway I thought might as well make it a prototype to make a good ambidextrous style stick. The main thing to look at is the arrangement of main attack buttons and the joystick how they are horizontal flips of each other if you 180 the joystick. The quick attacks are slightly lower just like a noir. The back three are in line like a straight six. And most importantly both left-handed and right-handed are treated exactly the same way relative to the mirror flip. I also have an easy wire set where you just plug in a db37 cable to whatever and you define the back end as and the buttons are wired accordingly. It'll follow the basic Capcom arrangements for both left-handed and right-handed assuming right-handed attack buttons are index to index mapped with left-handed ones, meaning quick attacks on index finger middle attacks on middle finger heavy attacks on ring finger and special attacks on pinky finger.
  12. I swear I had my best gaming mojo with a right stick. The biggest exception is Simpsons Arcade, where I had so much muscle memory I felt handcuffed with a right stick at home on the 360. I have the Twin Galaxies Arcade Single Player Single Credit record for Simpsons. But then again there weren't complicated moves you had to be precise on on the Simpsons. The most precision move was Jump + Attack either together or one slightly after the other. The reason why it's Ambidexterous is so that it can just as easily be left handed as it is right handed. The only economically smart way to make both left hand and right hand joysticks without forcing a prediction that could result in shortages and surpluses and eBay hoarding and bargain basement purchases is Ambidexterity. More "first sales" will happen if all joysticks are just as easily left and right handed. Hori only makes money off wholesale directly and "first sales indirectly". If the button arrangement loses more sales than ambidexterity gains, then it makes economic sense not to go Ambi. However the custom market and the pick up and play market are 2 different markets. The first is more likely to tinker. The second is more likely to just skip something they don't like it. The Sinister Stick makes sense for the pick up and play market. When you and 4 other people succeeded when they failed before, and the only difference was a right stick, and that feat was going perfect again the best player in your neighborhood, who later appeared on 00s era TV playing video games, that is a pretty high mountain to climb, and if 5 out of 5 improved, then it is more likely that 800 out of 1000 will improve vs 200 out of 1000, unless a lurking variable can be pointed out that us 5 have, that none of the other 995 have. Some people prefer straight 6s. A couple manufacturers make Straight 6s. The SF15 stick is a Straight 8. Why is straight 8 a "market satisfied option" and not ambidexterity. Also the fact that Nintendo disqualified Beeshu in the NES days until they got a TG16 and Genesis license, despite most experts saying they are great sticks, even left handed, yet Nintendo made hands free controllers for hospitals make me wonder why they make an Uber niche hands free stick, but don't allow an Ambi license until the competition did.
  13. Hello. First of all, I live on Social Security and Medicaid. Unless I can make enough to beat my "sure money" income and still afford healthcare for the rest of my life if I were to "coast on the payout", the fact that an Ambi stick is available off the shelf is more important and valuable to me than me making money off of it. Second, my website is the best I can do with a social security income. Yes, the main appeal to fighters would have been in the SF2 era, where a right stick would give enough people an advantage in pulling off dragon punches. As I said, intermediate and higher fighters with thousands of hours of practice would probably not want to relearn things unless it gave them an edge. That's why one way to market it is an off the shelf first, beginner's stick, as in when you're not sure whether you want a left handed or right handed stick. Thank you for saying there is more to joysticks than just fighters, Schmups and maze games are 2 big genres where joysticks are better. Actually by default, I prefer joystick over pad for about everything unless there is a specific reason I need an analog control. Also speed runners prefer digital controls to analog ones for easy repeatability. In one sense, it is 2 sticks in one, a lefty and a righty, just not both at the same time. If you want a left stick for certain games and a right stick for certain other others, this would be handy. You can easily switch between the 2. But it is not 2 simultaneous joysticks in 1. Besides having 2 in 1 in that sense would ruin the joystick, forcing both people to go left stick or right stick together, instead of making them independent BTW Hori is a video game controller and accessory company who happens to make something the fight game community finds priceless. They are not primarily an FGC cultural company and one of their products is a fight stick. The American division saw lots of value in an easy to ambidextrize joystick. Also I designed it so you do not have to be a solder surgeon or spend big bucks for a custom to a decent joystick. Also a problem NOT compensated for in the joystick you showed was that, depending on the game, mirror mapping may be different. For a 2 button game, there are 2 choices: index to index: AB J BA which is what most games use, which is the reason why I disliked the Sega SMS Joystick (it followed the below mapping) and left-to-left AB J AB which is usually only handy when the "action" is directed in one of 2 ways, like in Tutankham and Side Arms, firing left and firing right. Do the buttons shift to an index-to-index mapping, or is this fixed: WXYZ ABCD and not able to turn to: ZYXW DCBA When you got 6 buttons and many different design theories about button placements, the ability to swap button arrangements comes in handy. I understand the Xbox One and Series and Nintendo Switch, (as well as the PS4 and PS4 I assume, but don't know due to lack of personal experience) all have remappable controls, though there are a couple of flaws. Xbox's being analog inflexibility on "all digital" games, and Nintendo's flaw being always assuming you want movement on the left to the point of making Link, a canonically sword-left handed character into a sword-right one, (at least for Twilight Princess and Skyward Sword,) despite the fact the Wiimote and Nunchuk are "naturally Ambidexterous". This stick is also to make up for previous formats which didn't have joystick. Let alone joystick hand options. With the N64 and Wii Classic having few stick peripherals and no Cthulhu or Brook Retro support, this may come in handy. Thanks for the advice. I knew most of the people who appreciate it are in the Atari Age audience. That's why I discussed it on AA and shoryuken.com simultaneously. Also Schmup-playing people are using their right index finger as an over-glorifed brick. (90%+ of modern vertical/horizontal shooters have neither an incentive to hold your fire nor the requirement of testing your rapid fire finger) Finally, since you've been to my website, you might have seen my claim that not only I but 4 other common friends went from losing to him (one person loses 2 out of 3 matches, the other 3 plus me were blanked by him). to NEVER losing to him. 4 people went from zero to hero. And the only difference was the right hand stick. We even tested a left hand stick, and only one person improved from 1/3 wins to 2/3 wins, everyone else was zeroed. The right hand stick was the key... ...but then again, we were playing the Genesis version of Street Fighter: New Challengers, which has less leniency on the joystick special manuvers than later Capcom games, along with more punishing specials, and small, accidental combos instead of large, engineered ones. It makes sense that a natural right hander might prefer a right stick in this case if no muscle memory was attributed to them. By the way, two things kept that model from selling better. One is the fact that it was not for every system but was just PS3 where the regions where ambidexterity would have done well prefer Xbox for Street Fighter over PlayStation, two is it was not authorized by any console maker, and for new systems that means warranty hell if your system ever needs repair. I think I have correctly identifies and solved the economics of fight stick ambidexterity, mainly through living life with arcades and home systems. All I know is I got a custom fight stick not because I wanted a cool bling stick, or to microimprove small details. It was to fix a fundamental flaw in the market that couldn't be satisfied by the "big players". Well Hori USA said my design solved the economic issues of a mass market off-the-shelf right stick. Thought making all lefty is a better market that trying to predict the left vs right ratio, and have surpluses of one type and shortages of the other if they guess wrong, all ambi sticks is better than all lefty sticks assuming all other factors are equal. Hori USA said the gains that are made in making profitable ambis is greater than the loss due to slight contour differences and inefficiencies.
  14. Hello. I got a big physical collection of over 3,000 original games. I'm in a situation where I literally have no heirs I know of. I got a couple questions about the Now versus later, and what is essential in enjoying video games. I've heard that owning a decent PC helps one play certain classic video games online if there is a community for them that bothered programming a server for the game. I also heard for single player games or local multiplayer it's more important to own the original machine than it is to own the original game delivery method, (cartridge/CD). The original ROM data just straight dumped should be able to play on an everdrive type cartridge for machine. Is that correct? I heard it plays exactly like a legitimate version of the ROM on a real machine if you play an everdrive on a real machine. So if I want a true life experience save my machines and controllers but sell the software. Now remember I have very poor internet at only 5 MB in 5 megabits out. I should start out with the machines that have the smaller sized games. I should wait to get the CDs sized, and the DVD sized games when I have a faster connection. Usually it's a good idea to wait until something is two Generations old if you don't want a label as a pirate. Is it correct to assume that every cartridge based system from the Atari 2600 and Fairchild Channel F all the way up to the Neo Geo Pocket Color and Game Boy Advance has a everdrive or some equivalent thereof, that let you run downloads on real hardware. Are ever drives considered multi-region where you can play any regions' game on any regions' console? Also Everdrives lets you play games and buy the virtual version license of retro brews to support new development for old consoles. As for the size of the game and libraries I think I know what the size of a typical game is everything before the Master System was 1 megabit or less. Then cartridges crept up to 64 MB by the time the N64 came out and that was the largest cartridge until the switch had their new proprietary game paks. If internet speed wasn't an issue, is there a solution for CD based games? Like for example I do have the Sega CD for my Genesis and 32x but I don't have the CD for the Turbo Grafx 16 or Atari Jaguar. I would prefer a removable solution like something that sticks in an auxiliary part as opposed to getting rid of the CD drive and putting in a flash based ROM reader. Let me keep some of my legitimate games until it makes more sense to sell my CD and higher media. I heard therewere different versions of ROMs. Both differences in raw ROMs, the original ColecoVision Donkey Kong and the corrected ColecoVision, and differences in ROM files you use for particular emulators. I have friends who buy play and collect video games. Even if I get more from strangers on eBay I would prefer to sell them to my friends. Finally, I cannot make too much money, or else I risk losing Social Security and Medicaid. I guess I could trade with my friends give them the cartridges and in return get ever drive equipment a computer for online gaming something to bring decent internet to the house temporarily, and it would also make it easier if mom and dad die before me if my brother and I have to move to a smaller place having less cartridges to move around would make things easier. Also I heard if you want to play light gun games the way they were meant to be played, keep your CRT TVs. Go through as few conversions as possible. I just want some answers to these questions because these cartridges would be more valuable to my friends as collectibles than they would be to me as an estate when I'm dead. And I could still play the games by a PC emulation and everdrive with real hardware. Finally is there a place to look up original instruction booklets. I remember the old days I had to buy a CD on eBay and have it printed out on paper or look directly on disc for it. Is there either a disc or a website full of original instructions and box art? I'm saying I could probably get more value out of real media by giving it to my friends and getting ever drive and emulation equipment then after I'm dead having the government take my stuff because I was on Social Security. Just wondering if I'm making sense. .
  15. Well I have one of those cheap $10 boxes on Ebay that extract the audio into either a Toslink form or RCA LR form.
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