tripletopper

First of all the SD card reader in the Dreamcast expansion slots will not destroy your GD reader. Second of all Mac got rid of dual boot as early as Mac OS 12. They're currently on Mac OS 14. Anything with an "M processor" will not work with Windows. Let's just say I feared windows ever since the only way I could get someone to stop tapping into the windows portion of my Mac was literally physically unplugging the power cord in the computer and then erasing it clean from the Mac side. After that I vowed never again. When it comes to PC viruses I'm like Adrian Monk. I try to avoid them if I can't deal with them.

2 issues: The Pseudo Saturn Kai was preprinted on a Sega Saturn Cartridge Slot cartridge, bought at a store, but I can't figure it out. The Dreamcast reader uses an Expansion Slot SD Card Reader and a CD-R to get the Dreamcast to access it. There are two problems with this burning. One is that some sites have them in different formats and other sites have them another formats. Some are more directly usable by computers and some are more directly usable by the original hardware. I don't know which is which or how to get it from one form to the other. The other issue is I need Mac specific instructions and all these things you talk about don't have a Mac version. I do have roxio toast for Macintosh and was wondering if that would help me get it working. I know I could get it down to 8X possibly 4X and it burns correctly... I think. I understand there are different forms of discs like PC dats discs, Mac data discs, CD music discs. What format would a Saturn Disc be considered? I would like the instructions to make it run on original Saturn hardware and Dreamcast hardware. Thankfully my internet is finally up to 50 M in 50 M out, so it won't take all day to load a disc. What format should the CD and the SD card be in respectively. I have an unformatted 512 gig micro SD card from SanDisk. Nowhere on the internet can I find Mac-specific instructions for this.

I was talking about an experience with a fight stick which was mapped with an Ethernet adapter. You have to make your own Ethernet adapters. The fight stick makers recommend wiring destroyed Ethernet heads either pin to pin or color to color. (I forget which) My stick maker insisted to wire it the other way, and would only guarantee it that way. So the Dreamcast coincidentally worked but none of the other systems did. As it turned out, that's when we looked up notes about A-wiring, B-wiring, and A-B crossovers. I happened to bring an AB crossover, and it caused that effect. I just bought random Ethernet cables and they turned out to be AB crossovers. That's the reason why you don't blindly wire by either color OR pin but analyze whether you have AA, BB or AB, and deal with it appropriately.

Well I have the original (flashback pinned) controllers both in case they turned out to be the better controllers in certain games, and for the sake of experiencing it the way it was originally meant. I prefer arcade style sticks, and I'm thinking the easiest thing to do is divide a pc15 flight stick into 16 wedges and one bullseye. If you have to quickly shift from left to right, it would be tough with that control. I understand the original philosophy of the controls was to have joystick and paddle controls in one physical device. Also, no one gave people instructions about a game. I remember when the game demo tells you enough pictorially to give you an idea how to play. At 6 years I figured out Pac-Man by watching the demo. My 11 year old brother couldn't figure out on the first playthrough and died on the first level, and my dad said "This will never be a hit". My dad also said about the NES "Don't you know video games are dead?" Also with no pictures of how to play an NES, I figured out to put it on the floor, put my index and middle fingers on the d-pad and A and B. I found the YB arrangement on an SNES a little backwards because I have to backbend my wrist, and thought "your middle finger was longer than your index,and the index finger button was further away.". Doesn't make much ergonomic sense . Also making the A Button on the Genesis the auxiliary button made no sense. My index finger pressed A and I wasted my magic in Golden Axe. My brother was telling me I was holding the controller wrong. I kind of resent the move to the thumb pad because it was less accurate than a stick. The way I hold the INTV controller is to grab it in my left hand with fingers on the buttons, and using my index finger to hit the disc and keypad buttons. I even type on my cell phone that way: like I'm dialing a touch tone telephone. I'm wondering what you thought of the Intellivision controller, how to grip it, and what your thoughts were and what you initially thought of the NES d-pad.

If something has a two, then it's obvious there must have been a one. Unless you're a Bill Cosby 6th spy movie, then thankfully there's no one through five. I said "what is now retroactively called an Intellivision 1." It's original intellivision one hardware with the original controllers sold and replaced with flashback controllers and having a 2 INTV->INTV1 cables installed so that I could add an external fight stick. (Or other appropriate controller.)

This is what I have: Actual photo:

My console is now retroactively called an intellivision one. I bought from intellivisionaries.com (while they were making flashback adapters a flashback) controller Intellivision one adapter which uses the "straight line connector". The reason why I bought one was because I wanted to add a fight stick. Then I learned some Intellivision had 16-way games, some of which are impossible to complete with an 8-way controller. Knowing that in order to have a physical 16-way controller in the form of a joystick you have to have eight separate actuators on the Cardinals and diagonals and the tertiary touching one Cardinal and one diagonal. That would be an awfully hard expensive and most likely not effective way to make a 16-way physical joystick. For an 8-way joystick and a 4-way joystick I could use my own joystick and I'm going to get RetroGameBoyz.com to hopefully build a cheap joystick circuit where you could use a y connector with a real intellivision keypad I just command the joystick and buttons with an external joystick while the keypad is used for the keypad. For the 16-way joystick it would probably be easier if you took an analog joystick like a pc15 joystick had some sort of processor which divided the total range of the pc15 joystick into 16 wedges and one bullseye, and then directly translate that into a Intellivision controller pin language. I understand the reason you can have 16 ways three action buttons and 12 keypads is because the only two things that can be actuated together is one of the 16 ways and one of the three buttons plus a fourth button state of multiple buttons being pressed and a fifth button state of no pressing of buttons. I heard if you press a keypad button and a side button or joystick button at the same time, unpredictable things could happen with the intellivision unless you actually did it before and are banking on that. That being said I understand there's a difference between second generation joystick philosophy and third generation joystick philosophy. First of all I never understood why no one thought the floor or a tabletop wasn't an acceptable surface to lay an arcade style joystick on. It seems like companies were going for cheaper controllers. Handheld always seems to be the goal. Second I understand why the second generation is vertical. It's for ambidexterity's sake. But the problem with most second generation controllers that take advantage of that is that the cost of ambidexterity is arm asymmetry, and that usually causes hand and arm cramps, when you combine it with the fact that they were going for handheld controllers. What Nintendo did revolutionary was not the d-pad so much but the horizontal arrangement of the joystick. Really who had a horizontal layout, until the vectrex and then the NES? I just want a giant size joystick, meaning normal fightstick size, that will work with the Intellivision. I understand for eight way and four-way games there's already a solution. I'm just checking to see if there's a solution for 16-way games to do this. I understand there's lots of problems with making a mechanical 16 way joystick. That's why I was hoping for a joystick converter solution which could take analog controls and convert them into Intellivision joystick pin language

You missed the point. I have a back in the day flashback modded INTV. There is no emulator .

Because I have the actual hardware, and it's the physical control method of the disc that I find tough to use. But certain games work best 16 way. So an analog pc15 joystick would be perfect if I can convert it into INTV joystick language.

That's actually a good idea. Buy a double male DB9 and buy a double female DB9. I'm surprised they don't advertise it like that where it could be a "reverse adapter" if you buy one double male and one double female. So it's just the pin remap adapter. That's why all those joysticks sites say wire color to color, not pin to pin, in case you got an Ethernet crossover cable by accident which happened to me when I originally got my Toodles Cthulhu installed by my joystick maker. Funny thing is my guy who wired it refused to follow the directions on the internet and insist on pin to pin wiring, and one of my cables happened to be a crossover ethernet cable and only the Dreamcast worked on the Cthulhu. We all live and learn.

I heard an INTV2 to INTVFB cable from 8bitwidgets.com is bidirectional. I heard the Flashback makers (At Games) confused the male and female numbering which are horizontal mirror images of each other. If that's true then a retrogameboyz.com joystick or adapter should work with a flashback modded INTV1. Just checking my facts.

Hey. Does anyone want to play intellivision with a joystick instead of that pad? As long as your joystick is an 8-way or 4 way joystick I got the perfect recommendation based on a previous product. Retrogameboyz.com makes a Genesis ->Atari 5200 adapter that I purchased and it does work perfectly for digital games. Plus a couple places sell bohoki adapters for your analog sticks for the INTV. I was going to pay $150 for a Master system to intellivision adapter with one slight modification... Instead of having two buttons and having the third button accessed by pressing both buttons I was going to have the third button access independently through a 3.5 mm TRS connector and convert the Master system 9 pin to other TRS 3.5 mm connectors so that I can hook up with my fight stick. A standard one cost $120 so it might take a little more to get the 3.5 mm instead of the dual wiring. Finally does anyone know a way where I could get either a USB or PC 15 flight stick to work with an Intellivision so I can get 16 ways? By the way I have my own adapter to attache to the buttons on my PC15 to 3.5 mm connectors. And I might be able to use a Xbox adaptive controller to get it other ways.

I got a couple things I don't know how to use exactly. Ihave a Pseudo Saturn Kai that's supposedly lets me play burnt Saturn games, and let's be play foreign Saturn game. I also bought a Dreamcast SD card reader that goes in the back slot and appropriate CDR that lets you boot to that SD card. The problem is mostly instructions are for PCs and I have never had a PC. Our first two computers were an Apple IIe and an Atari 800. Then we never owned a new computer till 1999 when this new thing called the internet came about. My point about mentioning the fact that we never had a PC is I don't know any Mac specific instructions about either downloading games preparing them to be used on a CDR for the Saturn, or microSD card for the Dreamcast. I don't understand either process. I've wasted about 10 CDRs trying to burn for the Saturn but all of them were failures. a little help? By the way I clicked on that link that talked about bin files and ROM files and I cannot make heads or tails of it cuz there's no Mac specific instructions. Also how is Safari in terms of downloading ROMs?

I probably used to live in a school district where a lot of people had Saturn but none of the stores did. We had to go out of town to pick up Saturday and it was well worth it. Our main core group of three friends even got split over the whole 32x/Saturn fiasco. I got the 32x on day 1. One of my friends was saving it for the Saturn. And the other one of my friends was such a big say good night that he both bought the 32x and tried to get the Saturn on day one which I think he did. Funny thing about the 32x was that on day two, of what was the number one selling system on day one of all time to that point, the 32x, on day 2, Sega announced the Saturn was coming to the United States. At first we were under the impression that it was going to be two different localized systems 32x for the US markets and Saturn for the Japanese Market. I bought the Saturn before the "free three games pack" and before the N64 came out which I also got. The three of us even had a quasi relationship with a fairly out of town video rental store where we supplied the games for rent to a video rental store and then we just organically took them back whenever we wanted to play them when they weren't out or when the deal wad eventually done. Each of us were making an average of Saturn game a month income. We quit eventually because a couple of our games got stolen. What game we doubled up on to one of us buying individual Guardian Heroes with stolen so I made a deal. I did out of my deal with them when I found Guardian heroes for cheap in a used record store for like 10 bucks. Someone mentioned Video Game exchange earlier I'd like to thank the person who worked at Video Game Exchange in Southgate Ohio for both pointing me to one of the real first early retro stores video game connection on Memphis Road in Cleveland. I was asking for ColecoVision games and back then as soon as 1985 came I never found a Colecovision game in the wild a video game exchange Record exchange or Funcoland. The best thing he did was tell a second strategy where you can pick up precreash games real cheap: garage sales and thrift stores like Goodwill. I've been popping those tags since the '90s looking for ColecoVision games but never found one in the wild even though I found lots of other old systems in the wild. I also bought a Colecovision at that unique really old retro video game store that's been around a long time. I also bought a Eternal Champions CD that day. I became the most popular guy in the group when I bought Bomberman. Most people talk about games of GoldenEye or Mario Party but we were talking about while playing Bomberman,Guardian heroes virtual cop the near arcade perfect Capcom Fighters and another found party favorites Decathlete. Actually going through thrift stores and stuff made me find enough Saturn controllers where I could host an NHL game complete with human goalies with no computer opponents. Yes the Saturn can handle 12 players. We never actually played NHL till we got it late in the thrift store era but we could have. That was my college years. Thrift shopping for old games and bargain hunting for new games on the Saturn. And I got the one Saturn purchase on a fight game I can actually win against the guys mainly by maintaining strategic swapping of characters namely X-Men versus Street Fighter. Before I had any doubles I literally maybe have sold one or 2 games in my life. It was Wacky Worlds for the Sega Genesis. It was a creative studio that wasn't very creative. AH memories. That's basically my history with the Saturn.

To make a long story short my Xbox Adaptive Controller could make many adjustments I want. The one adjustments I can't make on either the Xbox adaptive controller or the Xbox operating system using the accessories app is X-axis flipping. I have gotten a PC 15 flight stick working with the Xbox adaptive controller by using a pc15 USB adapter. If there was such a pre-made device as a PC 15 x-axis and pc15 y-axis flipper that would be a perfect thing for me, (assuming it's in my price range) I understand the pc15 standard is some sort of analog standard which just uses uncoded intensities of charges to represent a value between 0 and 255. This is a lot trickier than say a Vectrex analog inverter, which uses separate pins for north and south and east and west, where a pin swap adapter would be the correct answer. I want to see if there's a pre-built / ready to order x axis inverter which has a male pc-15 and a female pc-15 and has the circuits to flip the X correctly. Also might be interested in the y-axis version of it. I know it's harder than a pin swap adapter. I've ordered pin swap adapters from custom places and they acted predictably. I just want to see if there's a place where they have pre-built x-axis flippers for pc15.

There are a couple games where'd like to invert the X, the Y or both axises. I was planning to use a PC15 one handed joystick for my stick and "half a hitbox" as my action buttons on everything from modern to pre-crash consoles. I have an Xbox Adaptive controller, which uses a PC15 via a USB converter. There are 2 reasons I want a voltage based PC15 axis converter. The first is I don't know if "system settings" on the XAC hold up on other consoles after going through Brook converters. The second is there is no way to invert the X axis on the settings of an XAC in the machine. Is there such a thing as a PC15 voltage based Axis Inverter? If so, I'd like to know where to find them, and I'd like to order 2 Xs and 2Ys. If not, can one be built? I assume that 0 voltage is one axis extreme and maximum analog voltage is the analog extreme. It seems harder than the Vectrex pin system, which if I understand that system has zero voltage as neutral, and maximum voltage as maximum north, south, east, and west. BTW does the 5200 have 2 pins for X and Y, or 4 pins for N S W E? Also is there a thing other than the original 5200 controller that has non-centering analog, because most of the analog 5200 games rely on a non centering stick, namely Super Breakout, Kaboom, Star Wars, and Missile Command. Fighting that centering resistance on a centering PC15 in those 4 games are tough. I think i can have built a Y adapter that can accept my "half a hitbox" as button inputs and use a real 5200 stick in a non-centering analog way.

Hello I got my intellivision 1 flashback modded so I can use newer controllers and so that eventually I can add a fight stick. At first I had buyer's remorse but someone told me about a way to get INTV 2 controller to INTV FB machine converters. Is there a way I could test such an adapter? Like for example, do 2600 controllers work on the Intellivision for games like BurgerTime which just have four way stick and one button? Also I prefer the tactile feel of a large joystick over a thumb pad or the disc. It's easier for me to make subtle moves with your whole arm than it is to make subtle moves with your thumb. I know the 16-way joystick is a digital joystick and it's not directly compatible with any analog joystick, but does someone make a PC 15 to Intellivision controller converter so I can use a one-handed flight stick as a 16 way plus bullseye as neutral joystick with a large handle? How does the PlayStation, Xbox, and Game Cuve versions of Intellivision Lives deal with the 16-way joystick on those systems? I think I could use my PC-15: stick on THOSE versions of the game. using an Xbox adaptive controller and a Brook adapter,but what do I do if I want to use it on the original console? Plus on the modern consoles the keypad would be nightmareish. Finally is it possible to make a direct input joystick from 3.5 mm TRS inputs that can actuate the three fire buttons independently? If I understand the schematic right three pins are labeled a b and c one button uses a b one button uses BC One Button uses AC and a fourth button combination uses any two buttons to equal ABC. I heard Defender is the only game to have four different button inputs using that method. Is there a circuit diagram I could show someone who can solder in the connectors to an intellivision to have either four way or eight way control with just four independent directions and three independent buttons for those four actions?

Looking at the description of the intellivision joystick code system for the pinouts I noticed that the joystick and the buttons can work together but only one keypad button and nothing else with it will work without getting unpredictable results. Looking further into the thing I noticed that it takes two pins to signal a button. Let's call the three pins a b and c. One button is AB another button is BC the third button is AC. The traditional Atari to television converter as well as the RetroGameBoyz.com converter uses a Genesis controller so that one button is AB the other button is BC and both buttons together is AC. I noticed it's a possible to have just an A B or C alone because that would indicate keypad. There is a fifth state which is ABC which is pressing any two functionally different buttons or pressing all three buttons. I assume most games do not use the fifth state of ABC but there are certain ones that do. May I have a list of games that use the ABC state of two or more buttons pressed to activate a different function than the bottom left, bottom right or top mirrored individually? I want to see whether it's worth getting the Retro Game Boys adapter off the shelf and not worry about the fifth state or if I should pay a little extra in both time and money and getting it working with the fifth state by having individual TRS 3.5mm button access for the 3 buttons. However it's not going to work unless I find a place that could build an INTV2 to INTVFB adapter. I had my INTV 1 Flashback modded and I'm looking for some way to hook.it up to my flashback modded INTV1. BtW my INTV controls are INTVFB.

If you saw the video I was frequently changing hand positions as I had a camera on my hands from two different angles. My joke about most of these second generation controllers is : The good news is that these controllers are ambidextrous. The bad news is these controllers are so bad in every other way compared to modern controllers that if you want get a high enough score you're going to learn to become ambidextrous.

First part of the results I tried Genesis to 7800 via Edladdin seagull 78, and then to Bally astrocade with the sad girl that didn't work. Then I use the real 7800 controller to the Bally with the pins removed appropriately on the dongle and that worked. And boy did it work I rolled over the score on Space Fortress with one player, three ships. And intensity level one. Right now I'm going to try a couple more joysticks but not play as deeply in Space Fortress

From about 3:30 to 3:45 today I was trying to rig together pin disconnector to try to get working a sadgirlsrecords.com 2600 controller to Bally machine adapter. I originally tested it with a fight stick wired up to the Sega Genesis standard then pass through the Edladdin Seagull 78, then through the DB9 male to female adapter with a few pins removed (the five to seven and the nine according to standard numbering).. I tried it on both ends and it failed. Then I took a real 7800 controller put the pin cut adapter on the Atari end of the Sad Girl, plug it in like that and lo and behold the 7800 controller worked. I said it for one player three ships intensity one and I rolled over the scoreboard. At one point I noticed I had 60,000, and then suddenly it rolled over the next time I looked. So provably at 64 X 1024 it rolled over because I was getting numbers ending in 4 and 9. I twitchcast it (to zero people). And I can have it saved on You Tube in my archives, abd possibly Twitch if I don't over use it. If what I did was unprecidented (I don't know, you tell me, I had to shift hand positions many times in real time). I debuted both a 7800 to Astrocade adapter and, depending on other's scores, did well in it. And all the cameras were in 3d. Stored as a 32x9 side by side proper ratio video, now i got some worthy test footage to test a live 3d/2d form converter.

Got a couple questions about intellivision controls. I know RetroGameBoyz.com cells and in television adapter where you can plug in a Sega Genesis controller and get quasi 3 button action. (Meaning if a game doesn't need a fourth action for pressing two buttons simultaneously, where pressing the two action buttons together gives you the third action button.). Couple questions. Currently he makes them for INTV1 and INTV2. Currently my INTV1 is Flashback Modded with brand new controllers (compared to the '80s originals) I know I'll get the wrong pinouts unless I find an INTV2 controller to INTVFB machine adapter. Intellivisionairies.com used to make them. Intellivisionaires.com website no longer exists. Can anyone else build me 2 INTV2 controller to INTVFB machine adapters? Second, could an INTV circuit be made to deal with the joystick and action button truly correctly if I use 3.5mm TRS inputs for the 4 ways and the 3 buttons, and Y-cable an INTV Flashback keypad for my keypad inputs. I understand the subtle "state system" where only joystick and button can be actuated together. Keypad and anything else or 2 simultaneous keypad presses gets unpredictable results. Finally I want a 16 way joystick. But ai know that's a hard build. I do have PC15 joysticks, maybe if you digitize the stick by dividing it into 16 wedges and a bullseye, we can have a 16 way INTV stick. That's how the Playstation 2 and Xbox Prime deal with 16 way issues. Maybe a circuit that turns PC15 into INTV 16 way. Finally speaking of PC 15, the Xbox Adaptive controller accepts PC15 sticks through the USB via converters. However, the XAC does not have the ability to swap the x axis.... Even though it can swap the y. Is there already in existence an analog PC15 X Axis and Y Axis swapping circuit? If so, what's it called so I can look for it. If not, what does that entail. I understand a 5200 analog stick has separate pins for north south east and west, whereas PC15 has x axis and y axis pins.

First the joke about the original CV Super Action: The good news is that joystick is ambidextrous. The bad news is if you get good enough where you can play over 15 minutes on one credit you're going to learn to become ambidextrous because of all the arm cramps from holding it. But your Coleco Super Action is not Ambi. It can become easily ambi if you follow my strategy at Sinistersticks.com By the way, if I make some money, but not an astronomical amount, i would actually hurt myself by doing it for money. Feel free to take my design of a 180able stick, work off it, and use it for an Ambi version of the Coleco Super Stick. I get more benefit seeing it implemented and actually purchasing one myself vs any money I could make off it. I'm on Social Security Disability. Take it as far as you can run with it. Money only hurts my health care benefits.

The Coleco Super Action one. If you look at my design on Sistersticks.com, you see a "double wired joystick". Do you make TRS 3.5 mm -enabled Coleco Joystick PCBs. I could use it with my current fight stick. I understand from Edladdin that there are 2 separate "grounds" (i know that's the official term, but let's go with that now) and in order to make every button and direction remappable with any other one, the ground must be unique to the individual actuator so that when a controller shifts from ground A to ground B, the return signal shifts with it as well. Also making the controls swappable makes it work both left handed and right handed on both Tutankham and Front Line. With both mirrored buttons and 180able controls, you need to swap buttons around for shoot left/right and rotate CW/ACW. I would rather have a PCB to work with my joystick. But if it were ambidextrous, depending on the price I'd het it. And it's kind of funny you're going "against the grain" back then , (obviously not now) and making it lefty only. Just wondering what you were thinking with a lefty only CV Arcade stick.

I have a one in 3 out splitter marked specifically as a 5-900.MHz uhf/vhf/fm splitter. I'll try that. Is it better to use a regular RCA from the game to the splitter and use an RCA Female to Coax Male adapter, or to use an RCA Male to Coax F and from there use a Coax m-m to the splitter? I guess I'll take a look at it. Maybe it's my First RCA M to coax F part that doesn't work right. Will update after I try it. And I understand that the color of the head is only skin deep. It's only for our hunan purposes we color code the cables.