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Posts posted by tripletopper

  1. 54 minutes ago, grips03 said:

    I recommend you make a new thread for that.  Would prefer to have this thread focus on the adapter I made so there is less confusion.

    Sorry, but can I use the exsiting diagram to find a way to do a true 3 button+multi inputs?


    I would like to use your keypad diagram for the keypad portion of an adapter and the joystick wiring for treating the diagonals right.  May we use?


    Also it could make a good 5200 adapter where all diagonals are 70% analog strength, to electrically force it within a circle.


    I know if a keypad is used the ABC of the buttons are column indicators and inly one us used if a jey is pressed 


    Doesn't Sega Master System use 2 buttons, while a Omega Race Booster Grip tap the 2 paddles to make 2 extra buttons, plus the main one for 3 buttons?  If so, a Booster Grip would have a good "naked 3 button controller" for INTV, except we have to use your diagram for treating 8 way diagonals right and the keypad.

  2. 3 hours ago, grips03 said:

    Not possible due to job/time.  Perhaps another on AA could make them.  Just follow that guide.  Ideally they would not use the same case, buttons, form factor I did, but make something even nicer.

    I know my friend Stan, ovcasionally has time to work woth fight stick equipment.  Maybe he can make Imtellivision Joystick adapters.  If he makes one for me, it'll be easier to repeat.


    A problem is that this only has AB snd BC pins activated.  No top pin of AC for the top button.  Mashing both SMS buttons equals ABC or multipress.  In most games, ABC and AC are equal.


    He can also build atari<->bally adapters (no dial) and intv 2 <->intvfb and other similar "passive adapters"

  3. Hello.


    I got ten devices that need to go into my HDMI capture card and CRT VGA monitor sinultaneously.


    When I have 5 systems in an automatic switch, namely the Nnbtendo Switch and Wii U,  the Xbox One and 360, and the Dreamcast in a Native VGA adapter.


    But if I were to either Daisy chain 2 HDMIs, and one item is a RetroTink SCART2HDMI or a Retrotink 2x Pro M, i notice my cheap Chinese Auto HDMI switcher goes on the blink.  Multiple lights light up for a second, then no signal.


    I notice a 2 to 1 bidirectional manual switch keeps the signal intact.


    My Phillps manual 3 system selector does not work well certain sitches when mixed with the electronic switch 


    What's better, manual or autonatic switches, (or the right mix)?


    I guess I can put the native HDMI stuff on on switcher, all the neo retro stuff on another auto switcher, and then connect them with a manual.


    The only question is can the manual switcher do 3d?  It might be too old for it.


    I guess I'll try that amd see what happens.



  4. 5 hours ago, Allen Schweitzer said:

    I know a lot of people think that Bally's are very expensive, and the truth is - THEY ARE.  I'm not a fan of that.  This post got me ruminating some old thoughts I've had for a while, now, and I decided to just put them here so maybe they'll be off my mind.  (FAT CHANCE)

    It agitates me that people are listing consoles at the same price I try to sell mine for.  It shouldn't, but it does....  Most of these consoles are untested, and yes, I'm sure some of them don't work.  These people pick them up somewhere for probably very cheap, and try to make a quick few hundred bucks with a quick flip on e-bay.  Many of them sit there for a very long time "untested".  That doesn't really affect my feelings of disdain.  What irks me, is that so many sellers price their items at or above what I try to sell mine for.  Lately, I've just decided to raise my prices to meet theirs.  And why not?  Why would I spend $400 on an untested Bally (or even a working one, for that matter) to put my time into it and break even or lose money?

    I'm willing to bet that most of the Bally's that sell on e-bay have not been full taken apart and cleaned.  I clean the keyboard, EJECT and RESET buttons, console top and bottom in warm water with Dawn dish soap and a hard bristled toothbrush, or a nylon brush.  I don't wash the outside of the bottom of the console case, as water and serial number stickers don't get along with each other, but I do use water and a brush inside to get out the dust.  Do these other people take over their wives' kitchen sink to do this?  Do they let all of the components air dry for 24 hours under a ceiling fan on their family's dining room table sitting on fresh paper towels?  Do they clean the keypad with a q-tip and Everclear to get 40 years of dead skin cells and dirt scrubbed off?  Do they blow air on the motherboard to remove dust particles?  Do the replace all the old capacitors in the board to help keep it running another 40 years?  Do they glue a monster heat sink onto almost every data chip to help prevent it from failing?  Do they wipe the RF cable and power supply cord with warm water and a paper towel?

    Or do they just throw everything in a box, and pass it on to the next guy?  Too many times, I've seen a power supply with the plugs bent after it gouged the console top and/or scratched or broke the plastic top that sits over the cart storage area during it's joyful, bouncy trip to my doorstep.

    Do they use an 18K Gold Krylon leafing pen to touch up the gold trim on the console?  RESET button?  EJECT button?  Keyboard?  Controller badges?

    Do they make sure every game has a decent label on it, or even attempt to test the games?

    And how about the controllers?  Do they take the controllers apart, and use a nylon brush on them to get the gunk out of the texture on the handles?  Do they test the functions of the controllers?  Do they repair issues with broken wires?  Probably not.  That's a 30-40 minute job, if you do it right.  Do they use electronic contact cleaner on the shaft to free up the pots?  Do they take every pot apart CORRECTLY, and clean the resistor plates with Everclear and Goo Gone, and put just the right amount of a 50-50 mix of white lithium and di-electric grease on the pots to keep them working correctly for years to come?

    I put a TON of time into every unit I refurbish and sell.  I probably average 5 hours per console (and all the components)...maybe more.  The sad part is, I probably put more time into the cosmetically deficient ones than I have to the nice ones, and they don't bring as much.  I try to get them as close to what they were new, and as clean inside and out as I can.  I kind of feel sorry for the buyer when I see some Bally's sell for a lot of money.  It's fine if someone doesn't buy one from me, but I try to give every one of my buyers as close to a "new Bally out of the box on Christmas morning" experience as I can.  I want them to know what the Bally was to me when I was a kid.  I've bought "working" Bally's that arrived at my house with broken pieces, or not working.  Try finding a listing on a Bally that offers returns.  Even I don't do that.  BUT if you have any problems with a Bally or controller, game, UM, LWR... whatever you buy from me, you will have my attention until I can get the situation resolved to your satisfaction.  No, I do not accept returns, but I have occasionally had items shipped back to me if something was damaged during shipping, or some other issue arose.  And so far, I've never charged to look at or fix anything for anybody I've sold to.  Good luck getting that level of service out of the "Estate Find" sellers.  I did replace a bad chip on a unit I sold once...2 years after the guy bought it from me, and it failed.

    I'm not sure I'll feel any better about submitting this after I do, but I do wish the best of luck to every Bally buyer out there, whether they buy from me or not.  Earlier this year, I started a collection of items removed from consoles.  I wish I would have started doing this long ago.  There are no guarantees in life, but I would like to think I can guarantee I won't be shipping someone a Bally with 1/2 of a bean, a random loose screw, a fake fingernail, a Monopoly house or any other piece of junk inside of it.

    p.s.  If the Monopoly house is your, p.m. me.  :D


    Well you could advertise it on ebay as "restored, better than unopened,  guaranteed to work OYMB" and say that new unopened Astrocades are not guaranteed to work due to their age.  Put that info on the auction, put no buy it now, and watch the meter run.


    Enough people are aware that restored 5200 controllers are more expensive than unopened New in Box that enay prices reflect that.


    Maybe it will be actually worth cleaning Ballys if advertising your Astrocade helps increase the price you get for Ballys on ebay.


    I was lucky in the 90s, finding an Astrocade, 4 controllers, and 9 games for $5 , with 5 of those games being Basic, Incredible Wizard, Muncher, and Blast Droids, and a possible early prototype of Artillery Duel signed by one of the managers at Bally.


    ... And all working.


    BTW the Bally Astrocade was the inflation ajdusted champion of ecpensive machines, but their difference from the pre-Intellivision 2600 was not that dramatic.  $300 for an Atari vs $500 for a Bally


    However Neo Geo and 3DO were perceived as a rich man's gaming system moreso that the Bally because they were 4x-6x the price of a Genesis compared to 1.6x the cost of a 2600.  

  5. Well I tested the Brook Universal USB Fight Stick PCB (apparently one no one has tested before) and it currently seems like it's unremappable.


    By the way the way I get the Brook Universal USB to be recognized is hold down  QK on the fight srick while you press the home button on a Joycon, like a remote car starter.


    Maybe there is a different way to do the Brook Universal so it gets recognized.


    Also my Hori Pad doesn't get recognized and that's an official third party controller.


    Maybe the way it gets recognized has something to do with it.  Maybe if it's added not on boot up, but when "changing order" the Hori Pad and the Brook Universal does get recognized.


    I'll try that now and report.

  6. Hey has anyone else tried to remap their controller other than a Nintendo joy-con using the Nintendo switch OS remap feature in the options menu?


    I noticed two strange things in that menu.  First my fight stick, which is using a brook Universal USB fight board when in USB mode, doesn't want to seem to remap.


    Second strange thing I noticed was that if your joycons were in a grip, a plastic device that made two mini joycons work like one big Joycon, before it would list them as a United pair now it lets them as two separate controllers to remap.


    There is some consequences to that.  That means you can't use the left stick for any function on the abxy or vice versa.  Nor can you switch sides of the ZL and ZR or L and R.


    Of course the game allowing you to do it's overrides what Nintendo is doing with this.


    Couple questions the old way I turned on the fight stick was hold down the quick kick button while turning on the ignition with a loose joy-con by pressing the power on that while holding the quick kick on the fight stick.


    Is there a different way you have to activate it in order for it to understand the joystick OS remapping?


    Is it just the brook Universal USB, or are there other USB fight boards, or does that include unofficed USB controllers and even maybe some authorized licensed USB controllers?


    Is it specific to fight sticks or is it any kind of multi-button controller, like a Smash Brothers controller, or a third party authorized wired pad?


    Other than the analog 3.5 mm telephone operator board route,  which is just a less destructive, more permanent, and more flexible way of rewiring the joystick, is the only way around this rewiring?

  7. The red is in sync with its vertical and horizontal sink.  The green and blue is in sync with their respective vertical sync.


    I have to pick one sink or the other or pick one from one and one the other.


    Probably since it required the less physically least number of physical doodads therefore the last requiring the synchronization connect everything except the red on the right eye and have some intermediary device on the left eyes red that'll sink it with the current signal of everything else.


    I got a stable green a stable blue on the one that has the vertical and horizontal synced with it.  The red of the left eye scrolls to the right very slowly and drop the line each time it looks like it scrolls across the screen.


    I know oscilloscopes have variable controls which alter the wavelength and frequency or add multipliers of one or the other or both to make it sync up with other stuff.  I assume you use an oscilloscope to measure what voltage you either add or subtract or do something to with a physical device that does something with voltage to make the the red of the left sync with everything else.  And then someone makes a device that does that one specific thing I plug in on the left of the red.  Either there's one already made or if there's not a standard part hire the guy to build one.


    So I don't know what I'm doing on an oscilloscope myself but I understand the concept of adding multiplying subtracting and dividing voltage, an electromagnetic waves are considered two-dimensional with a forward moving aspect and a sine wave aspect on the other dimension, indicating a cycle.  


    Because we started in analog it's easy to continuing analog until we're ready to digitize it so I assume the parts is fairly cheap fairly easy,  fairly easy to diagnose, and if it's wrong it's not going to fry the virtual boy or the house or the monitor it's attached to or short itself out or anything stupid like that.  That is assuming I find someone who knows what they're doing.


    Know anyone in Cleveland OH who does and knows how to do this right?   I know of a shop in Brunswick Ohio that charges $25 for analysis and estimate and applies that $25 towards labor possibly parts.  If you can't do it yourself, hire someone else to do it for you.

  8. I bought myself an Extron EDID 101V.  I was hoping to get better sync on this device.  I guess I could go take this to a Best Buy have them run it on their oscilloscopes and see if we can find an analog solution for this.


    Some of you may know the answer without me describing it but here goes.


    Obviously I connect the red red of left input to Red of output.  Green and blue of right inputs go into green and blue of output.


    I got stable pictures the only thing is I got a horizontal hold depending on what I do here.


    I got a way to plug either one or two vertical and horizontal sink inputs into an output I take a VGA to BNC converter then have a BNC to RCA converter and use an RCA 3-way for both the two inputs and the output.


    What I plug in both horizontals as well as both verticals, I noticed the monitor goes on when the tube screens are almost meeting with each other.  But the TV says resolution out of range when they drift too far apart.    If I plug in just one horizontal one, whichever ones' horizontal I plug in is stable and the other one scrolls.


    Someone told me to take it to a Best Buy or an independent repair shop and oscilloscope it and see if there's a regular pattern and he'd be able to figure out what part he need to fix it.  Hopefully this is an external part that would not require any further modding.   Is there a way to fix this without touching the circuitry inside?  


    What is the EDID device supposed to do?  I heard it takes wonky inputs and converts it to a standard output.  At first I tried to match the input resolution (the wonky one with the weird sync mixed in.) To the output resolution going to the monitor.  Maybe the edited device only works when it's actively transferring from one resolution to another instead of syncing up to same resolution stuff.  It just gets lazy and ignores the same input as output and doesn't do anything at all.  At least I'm hoping that's the $25 answer that will save me from going to a place within the oscilloscope and having them evaluate it.   Will check back in about a few minutes.


  9. 1 hour ago, MattPilz said:

    For paddle/fader type variable controls I have found that DeoxIT F5 works wonders and should prove less harsh than isopropyl alcohol since it is specifically formulated for such components. Almost every "pong" variant I have acquired from the 70s also including Atari paddles have had terrible corrosion and sensitivity issues. But spraying a few bursts of F5 into the controller knob (with plastic knob part removed, when possible) and then turn the knob both directions back and forth a few times... Spray one or two more shots in and rotate once more and then I let it sit a half hour before powering on. Just did this again a weekend ago and now a Wonder Wizard I saved from the dump works like new.

    Edit - This also is a terrific solution to mending glitchy volume controls on old CRT sets and remove the static and hard volume jumps.

    Where can I find Detoxit F5?  A chain store name or a mail order website?

  10. Thought of something new.


    I notice VGA has 15 pins, which may have up to 15 one-way paths if data.


    Converting it to BNC and back to VGA reduces it to at most 10 paths, and that assumes both paths are used on VGA.


    I noticed that if i takeout H sync on the left eye and the V Sync on the right eye, I have a slightly rolling picture.


    Does the Virtual Tap use more than 5 pins on the  VGA.  If so, i think I found a creative way to rid the sync on each eye selectively.


    I have these 15 pin dual male couplers, which I need anyway to use a merger.  I assume i can needlenose one pin selectively on one side of the "VX adapter" and a different one on the "HX adapter" and have all channels go through except the one on the left eye and the the one on the right, and.

    everything else should work.


    I see female mapping everywhere on the internet, but rarely find male mappings.  Also I remember Bally Astrocade broke convention by using the opposite gendered end (compared to Atari and later others)  to define the pins.


    If the female pins are labeled:

    1  -- 2  --3  --4  --5

    --6   --7  --8  --9  --10

    -11 -12 -13 -14 -15


    The the males should be: (if my understadiing of labeling is correct) 

    -- --5 --4 --3 --2 --1

    10. --9 --8 --7 --6

    -- -15 -14 -13 -12 -11


    If my quick and dirty Google research under "vga pinout" is correct  pin 13 is vertical sync, and 14 is horizontal sync.


    Maybe that would help.



  11. Since this topic exists, might as well write in it an update 


    How does RGB Scart work?


    I see passive $5 adapters. I assume they are GIGO, (leave it untouched). I assume they take a SCART, and separate it into an RGB signal with sync attached to green.


    A few questions:

    1 can RCA cables hold a main signal and a return signal?


    2.  Is Video sync a return signal that can be mixed with RCA?


    3 since the main signal and return signal arr both separate lanes, then a passive adapter can act in both directions from SCART to RCA and from RCA to SCART.


    4.  All I need is one green to hook up.  So it will be synced with the right eye if left is red and right is cyan.


    5.  All you need is one sync for it to work.  Having 2 causes analog picture errors.


    Just seeing if RGB SCART is easier to amaglyphize  than VGA.





  12. Hello early or today between 2:00 and 3:00 Eastern I did a test of my consoleized Virtual Boy, and a makeshift no solder Jerry rig way to make the left and right eyes merge into an anaglyph picture.


    I had to use three different VGA to BNC connectors with the red green blue vertical and horizontal all a separate BNC connectors.


    Then I hooked up BNC connectors the following way.  Left eye gets red vertical and horizontal, well right eye gets green and blue.


    When I played it it was enough of a success where I actually got something on the TV.  The red image was standing still however the cyan image was rolling horizontally from left to right.  It was also scrolling over once it reached the right hand border.


    For like maybe two or three seconds I had perfect 3D.  That was when the cyan was really close to the center where the red was supposed to be.


    So maybe do a couple things I bought some bnc y-adapters, and try plugging in horizontal and vertical sync to both,   and if one of the two TVs has both verticals or horizontals plugged in it said signal out of range reduce resolution.


    So obviously based on my amateurish knowledge of electronics, if you plug it into two vertical or horizontal syncs it changes the resolution.


    I also noticed something really weird on my VGA cables that I got back from my professional installer.  One of the VGA pins is missing in all three the same pin in all three if face stuff like a rocket it's in the center column fourth one from the top so just above where the rocket booster.


    I haven't kept track of all data points, but when I switch the left and the right and when I switch which one gets the horizontal and which one gets the vertical weird things begin to happen like for example the other eye moves, or scrolls from right to left.


    It's like when you plug a V and H in one device one picture is guaranteed still.  But something weird happens when you split it.


    Maybe here's an interesting question.


    Based on what I read of the 15 pins the 15 pins have a red green blue data,  red green blue returns, hsync vsink, since the red green and blue have both outgoing data and incoming returns.  And if I'm correct most of these RF standards are considered two polar meaning there's a regular signal and a ground signal embedded on each of those devices.  And since a lot of these analog standards are cross compatible, maybe there's a way to split the v-sync and h-sync in two separate lanes for two separate directions and selectively hook up resync in and resync out so that the chips get the right signal.


    Also I noticed the focus bar has been removed on the consoleized Virtual Boy.  No one decided to work on the focus bar because no one was crazy enough to try both eyes at once until I came along.


    I don't know exactly where to go from here but I know there's very many smart people on Atari age, and I reported the results I got accurately if you put the sink vsync and async into the same device and put the red green and blue straight from one to the other without y splitting  anything, the red picture looks great but the cyan picture scrolls a little bit.


    Any help? Any suggestions?  How would I split the two elements of the BNC connector?  Am I assuming too much to talk about the two different elements of a BNC connector and trying to split them?


    By the way if you want to see my test video put on your red and cyan glasses, look for the July 15th video between 2:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m. Eastern on the following twitch Channel my twitch Channel:



    • Like 1

  13. 7 hours ago, Draxxon said:

    I have an idea, what if you had a "reversible" control panel overlay. What if both sides had art and buttons labeled but could be installed with either side facing up?

    That would work assuming diy flipping and rewiring is easy and the art makes sense both ways if vanity art  is a desired feature.  


    Maybe Hori USA likes my idea because I solved 90 percent of the market issues with Ambidexterity.  You brought up, and in a different way, solved the remaining 10% but assumed 100% of the people will be willing to violate warrantee to get a stick.


    You introduce a different problem, more time and harder skills are needed to change sides.  Mine is unplug from one end, plug in other end, and reorient.  Yours requires opening, unscrewing screwing, and that's just the case.  I don't know if there is a way to do it where the only tools are a screwdriver and your hands.  If there isn't that makes it less simple.


    But really any stick is theoretically reversible, if one doesn't care about art, however if designers have a vendetta against right stickers  they could booby trap the pieces with feartures to prevent reversibility, like an asymmetric art board, or hard to undo and redo wiring, which to some people, like me,  is anything beyond using a screwdriver and your hands 


    Hey, a DeeJay joystick would be a good reversible vanity joystick theme.  Fun ambi fact that most moderate fans of Street Fighter know: The main behind the scenes reason the word "Maximum" is printed on his pants is because that was the combined largest and most suitable to character word that's horizontally flippable when printed vertically.  Horizontally flipping sprites only works with using exclusively  side-by-side symmetric characters:





  14. Okay I didn't know how integrated the tape drive was with the tuner.


    But the Sega Game Gear Tuner interfaces via cartridge slot and an external aeriel antenna.

    .there's also an antenna hole and an AV hole on The Game Gear Tuner.


    If you consolize a Game Gear, then one plugs in  the tuner, it should give you a low ping way to VGA, HDMI, or whatever the Consolized Game Game goes out to with systems that natively have only RF Out, which includes 2600, 5200, and 7800.


    I couldn't find a "capturing and outstreaming" section in Atari Age.  I tried to do that.  But since all Atari consoles until Jaguar were RF only, this is an appropriate place 

    • Confused 1

  15. I've got the number one use for that broken VCR.  Most of the reasons why the VCRs are broken is because the tape mechanism somewhere is broken.


    You know what still works well?  The NTSC tuner input and AV output.


    If someone knows how to run the TV circuit and just chop off the tape player without affecting the TV circuit, you could make nice Mini ntsc tuners (or pal tuners or whatever tuners wherever you are in the world)


    A lot of modern TVs are just skipping the ntsc coding.  It has no idea what to do with an Atari 2600 plugged into it.


    Luckily retrotink.com has some good converters to HDMI.  They are all tested to add at most 100 microseconds, when a typical 60 HZ frame is defined as 1666 microseconds, and I know VCR tuners only leave a slight adjustment that could only be felt in light gun games that don't have calibration, IE just the NES, SMS, and 7800 gun games.  Do not use one from a DVD recorder because those add a significant enough amount of lag that it throws off light guns totally and doesn't even register a shot,  and may even add an extra frame of lag or 2.  Probably because it has to digitize the video which adds the lag.


    The smallest ntsc tuner I have that could convert to composite video is an 8 mm Sony VCR deck.


    If someone knows how to build such a mini tuner I'll donate a donor VCR and put in some money towards it if it could be significantly miniaturized, mainly by chucking the tape deck.


    I don't know if they made non-digitized S-Video, Component, SCART, RGB, or VGA VCRS.


    I would use an MTV box but the Chinese menu is so wonky and I can't tell what's going on half the time, and that's when it's in English.  It's always stuck on AV mode  though nothing is plugged in the AV.


    I guess I could live with the tuner in the 8 mm VCR deck.  But don't throw out your VCRs if the tuner cards are good.


    No one makes ntsc tuner cards anymore as far as I could tell except in retro communities.  This is probably the easiest source to get them.

  16. 6 hours ago, Draxxon said:

    okay man, your into it, and im with you. Good luck.


    move those start buttons to be flippers for pinball. lol. just saying.

    P.S. Green AgeTech DreamCast stick is dope. I had two. Can't replace shit easily when they wear out tho.

     Thanks.  I know if I want to challenge my friends and fighting games if they ever come over they would need some decent sticks.  That's a good one for the Dreamcast.


    Ask for the pinball buttons I've got three buttons remaining to place to make a perfect 18 button thing if I were to include all eight main buttons all four directions three auxiliary buttons, the left stick in button the right stick in button and the fourth auxiliary button for the switch capture or would be for the PlayStation the touch bar, with the joystick.


    Buy out the way I told Hori that the mean portion of the test as to whether it passes or fails is whether the main button layout works well as both a pseudo noir as well as a straight six that is ambidextrous.  Yes the starting select buttons were there from a specific reason I had during the zeros.  Also you got to balance being close enough to be able to block when resuming out of pause in a non-tournament situation,  yet far enough to not disqualify you for accidentally pausing in a tournament situation.  I know Mad catz has a thing called a start lock.  I just wonder if a simple lack of connecting the start button or toggleable interruprion of the start button would prevent accidental pausing.  If the start button is assigned one particular pin on my db37 then I just need to switch that could connect and disconnect that one pin put it in between my system and my PCB and it should work.


    As for pinball buttons I am a fan of pinball but I usually use L and R on modern pads. Or on pre-SNES pads joystick left and the right most thumb button. Should I assume that a pinball box has a tilt sensor that is hooked up to the analog stick so that you can manually simulate trying to get a legal tilt if you normally over tilt with the left stick.


    Finally is there a place where you could show off your collection of stuff on Atari Age?  Originally I was going to post my joystick collection collection here and thought, there probably was a better place for it and when it's up I could link it here.

  17. 1 hour ago, jerseystyle said:

    Isn’t that the same as the picture that had been posted? What’s the difference between your model and:



    1a. That is a straight 8 arrangement with two halves of a joystick that are assembly side by side.  If you prefer a noir layout, see above comments about 180-ing  a stick

    1a is that compartment is not that sturdy then you might have loose parts when trying to ambidextrize it.

    2. That model is not authorized for use with any system therefore the casual pick up and play player might ignore it out of fear of invalidating the warranty.

    3a.  What happens when you do convert it to a right-handed joystick either by inverting it or swapping out the left and right?  Will it automatically make a correct index to index mapping of a street fighter stick or are you going to have to hope that there are either in game controller settings or os controller settings?

    3b. Not every game is as simple as an index to index map.  2 non fighting games mainly a 2d maze shooter and a schmup respectively called Tutankham and Sidearms will have its buttons reversed if it behaves like it should with Street Fighter 2.

    4. That is a PlayStation 3 controller and in my house the PlayStation 3 is basically the old 3D Blu-ray player that occasionally plays a couple games.  I played Street Fighter on the 360.

    5. My controller could be recycled over and over to other consoles.  I've gone so far as have my connection be a db37 to have 37 analog electric pins so that it would work with a ColecoVision in any possible combination of buttons and functions where each function is given a unique ground.  Yes there are two different grounds on the Edladdin board on the ColecoVision.


    Probably the most relevant ones to why it failed on the PS3 markets are reasons number 1 2 3.  Four and five are just my personal reasons that are not that popular.


    By the way if you say it was no big deal to make an ambidextrous design then why haven't other people done it in my fashion if that was already in the air.  The only possible reason I could think of is a polo attitude on the part of the fighting game community.


    First of all if you were in the story of Street Fighter would they ask your favorite character to handcuff themselves while they fight against their opponents. No they fight with all their might and their opponents with all theirs.  So in that sense ambidextrous joysticks is in the vein of the Street Fighter story.


    Second the main reason why arcade tournaments in the 90s didn't have righties was because you have to actually dismantle the arcade do a whole bunch of crazy stuff flip it come back.  That was the main reason I never competed back in the day was cuz I knew I'd always be competing with handcuffs in the open market.  I understand it wasn't personal,  it's just business.  But as I said if the business model was to pay out champions and the arcade gets a percentage, then you definitely see ambi layouts on Street Fighter 2. But since the model is currently pay per loss they encourage losing by tying your hands by fighting left hand.


    Third of all there's actually a practical reason why Polo restricts play to right hand to play.  (Notice I did not say "bans lefties", just "bans Lefty play'). In Polo, I  could sum that up in a five word phrase: head-to-head horse collisions.  In the arcades I understand though it's unfortunate.  In a tournament that's byoc or online what would be the prescident for banning Lefty sticks?  Who does that harm?  We're willing to give the Microsoft a year for the story of "when everybody plays we all win" with their special controller and Nintendo's hands-free NES controller (and rightly so)  but do something more common that's less heart tugging, it helps way many more players I'll be it in a lesser extreme manner,  you don't say yeah I could use a right-handed joystick, or even I know someone who could use a right hand stick or even acknowledge the fact that a right-handed joystick would be a good option as opposed to not having,  you said no one in their right mind would use a right-handed stick, or there's no scientific proof of being better with a right-handed stick, or suck it up, or git good.

  18. 1 hour ago, Draxxon said:

    No way a handful of sega SF2 matches tells you any of that info.

    the button layout is nothing special. nothing new. Start Button on bottom and top need to go bye-bye.

    First of all most of my problems in Street Fighter 2 were failure to execute, and not flaws in strategy.  When you go from consistently losing to everyone to consistently beating everyone, then you could say that that was the difference.


    Also when you succeed and executing and it becomes second nature then you could concentrate on more the other stuff like watching your opponents spacing managing clock and energy noticing attack patterns of your opponent.  But when you're trying to execute in a situation that's not conducive to executing IE wrong handed, you either just cannot pull one off on the spot or you take so focused of an approach that it's telegraphed and blocked or countered.


    Also Street Fighter 2 is the perfect game for this setup.  I saw some posts mocking Street Fighter 4 for having very loosey-goosey controls and then unintended extra long combos were made out of them.  The Street Fighter 2 controls were easy enough that if you practice they were easy to execute but hard enough that you have to execute them right and cannot be loosey-goosey about them.


    Yes it's true when you get to games with looser controllers then the joystick doesn't matter as much then there's no reason to put your "good hand" on the joystick.  If you've never played a version of Street Fighter 2 that was local, then you possibly cannot understand this, at least not by personal experience.  Also if combos are shorter and vanilla hits are weak compared to specials then there's no good reason to put your good hand on the buttons.


    Left-handed joysticks were designed in 1985 when American arcade owners noticed that their time per credit went down when the left fire button for right-handed joystick was out of order.  Some owners were known to move the left fire button to the right to force left-handed play.  And credit lengths went down because less people were used to it by default.


    The main point is the second Golden Rule says whoever has the gold makes the rules.  Who are the most direct consumers of arcade video game makers?  The machine owners who put it on streets and Hope average people plunk in quarters.  The quarter plunkers themselves are not the primary customers of arcade video game makers.  Before when most two player games were either co-op or alternating owners had instead of to shorten lengths of play and forcing left stick with one way to do that.  That's because they were paid by the three lives not by the Champions they produce.  Trust me if there was an organized Street Fighter 2 tournament, where the arcade owner got 10% of the arcade-versus-arcade play prize  money made, and each individual place decided what they were going to use for their setup, there would be no way in hell they turn down right handed players who prefer right handed joysticks.  By either shutting out or handcuffing 90% of the players that would plunk in quarters and apply to be that arcade's champion, assuming most of the money was made by the arcade champion and the owner got a cut that would not be the way to make your pool of possible contestants to recruit from bigger.


    If you were in the high school and didn't have the opposite handed baseball gloves or golf clubs or hockey sticks you would be considered discriminating.


    There was a long righty waiting line in miniature golf courses in the 70s and 80s and then golf courses became more efficient since the ambidextrous putter was introduced.  After that it made the long line get shorter but still just as many people played therefore encouraging more traffic, and there may be an instance where you want to switch hands and instead of walking up to the clubhouse to get the opposite handed Club for one shot you just flip it around.  The only alternative to an opposite handed shots would be making an acrobatic percarious shot.


    It was just a strange artifact from a time when Jamma was heavily about limiting play time on the machine because the less time per quarter the more quarters get plunked.


    Let's say classic video games became a high school sport. The reason why you want to make it classic video games not modern video games is that the scholastic scene should not influenced by the business scene of the current day version of the game.  Street Fighter 2 would definitely be among the classics.  It's been around long enough to have established standards.  The primary reason why Lefty sticks were instituted was because the companies were making money.


    Yes it's easy to say in 2008 just go to shoryuken.com and find a custom joystick maker, but in 1994 finding someone who could make a Genesis and SNES joystick that is right handed was a lot harder to come by.  Ironically enough the only company that could do it was a company that makes handicapped gaming equipment known as KY Enterprises.  Their builds were good enough because they assumed that if you were handicapped you had a technician on call to handle some of the electronics that breaks down with the tools, and it was assumed you got either a partial subsidy from the government or from insurance company or something like that.


    For the average person (if you define the average person as not a typical KY Enterprise's client, meaning that you're not handicapped but you need a special something) KY Enterprises made shoddy joysticks.  It broke down in a week or two.  Fixing required soldering and there was no one I knew who could help with that.  I would have had to take it to an mechanic but a mechanic wouldn't touch anything that is not Factory authorized.  Something that was basically Jerryrigging custom made, the mechanic basically says sucks to be you unless you got enough money that the government is subsidizing it.


    I know I never made to competing beyond friends cuz I knew that if I were to go anywhere beyond my friends either it would be physically impossible for a right stick to be welcomed in an arcade or else there'd be less friendliness if I just beat them with the right handed stick and they said they didn't have the option to get one.


    If the Golden Rule says he who has the gold makes the rules, then what would happen if one did have the opportunity to buy a right-handed stick or an ambidextrous stick?  Beeshu did carve  out that niche and actually did better than any unauthorized joystick maker should do with Nintendo's crackdown on unauthorized equipment. They did have a guarantee better scores or your money back policy.  I don't know what the take back rate is but I certainly had better scores with a Beeshu mainly because of the ambidexterity.


    Beeshu was successful until the number buttons that had to be mirrored on both sides became too expensive to offer ambidexterity.  This design is to offer ambidexterity with less buttons.


    I saw the specific market problem: how to make an ambidextrous joystick competitive with a unidexterous joystick, without requiring the super hard study to figure out what percentage of the game buying market wants to stick right versus stick left.


    And I think I solved it better than anyone has before.


    Just so you can walk a mile in another man's shoe even if you could reverse the button functions  on the modern operating systems controller config.  You still won't get a comfortable contour.  Your attack hand would be back cocked.  The quick punch would be too far away from your left index finger.  



  19. You can look on my own website, sinistersticks.com. Of course I can make it easy for you and upload a stick pic.  


    I understand the plain Jane look is not exactly a great salesmanship.  But the reason why it's a plain Jane look is to emphasize what it does have,  which is reasonably contoured ambidexterity that could be either used as a near noir or straight six.


    I've never been the best looking guy but I just been me and in high school lots of ladies like me, not enough for anyone kissed me but, I was the new guy in school and all the ladies seem to already have boyfriends.  I was just biding my time being me.


    So this doesn't have a picture of a famous fighter or fighting game scene.  I paid the money to get what counts actually done and that is right-handed joystick.  But if it was going to be right-handed anyway I thought might as well make it a prototype to make a good ambidextrous style stick.


    The main thing to look at is the arrangement of main attack buttons and the joystick how they are horizontal flips of each other if you 180 the joystick.  The quick attacks are slightly lower just like a noir.  The back three are in line like a straight six.  And most importantly both left-handed and right-handed are treated exactly the same way relative to the mirror flip.


    I also have an easy wire set where you just plug in a db37 cable to whatever and you define the back end as and the buttons are wired accordingly. It'll follow the basic Capcom arrangements for both left-handed and right-handed assuming right-handed attack buttons are index to index mapped with left-handed ones, meaning quick attacks on index finger middle attacks on middle finger heavy attacks on ring finger and special attacks on pinky finger.



  20. I swear I had my best gaming mojo with a right stick.


    The biggest exception is Simpsons Arcade, where I had so much muscle memory I felt handcuffed with a right stick at home on the 360.  I have the Twin Galaxies Arcade Single Player Single Credit record for Simpsons.


    But then again there weren't complicated moves you had to be precise on on the Simpsons.  The most precision move was Jump + Attack either together or one slightly after the other.


    The reason why it's Ambidexterous is so that it can just as easily be left handed as it is right handed.


    The only economically smart way to make both left hand and right hand joysticks without forcing a prediction that could result in shortages and surpluses and eBay hoarding and bargain basement purchases is Ambidexterity.


    More "first sales" will happen if all joysticks are just as easily left and right handed.  Hori only makes money off wholesale directly and "first sales indirectly".


    If the button arrangement loses more sales than ambidexterity gains, then it makes economic sense not to go Ambi.


    However the custom market and the pick up and play market are 2 different markets.  The first is more likely to tinker.  The second is more likely to just skip something they don't like it.  The Sinister Stick makes sense for the pick up and play market.  


    When you and 4 other people succeeded when they failed before, and the only difference was a right stick, and that feat was going perfect again the best player in your neighborhood, who later appeared on 00s era TV playing video games, that is a pretty high mountain to climb, and if 5 out of 5 improved, then it is more likely that 800 out of 1000 will improve vs 200 out of 1000, unless a lurking variable can be pointed out that us 5 have, that none of the other 995 have.


    Some people prefer straight 6s.  A couple manufacturers make Straight 6s.  The SF15 stick is a Straight 8.  Why is straight 8 a "market satisfied option" and not ambidexterity.


    Also the fact that Nintendo disqualified Beeshu in the NES days until they got a TG16 and Genesis license, despite most experts saying they are great sticks, even left handed, yet Nintendo made hands free controllers for hospitals make me wonder why they make an Uber niche hands free stick,  but don't allow an Ambi license until the competition did.

  21. Hello.


    First of all, I live on Social Security and Medicaid.  Unless I can make enough to beat my  "sure money" income and still afford healthcare for the rest of my life if I were to "coast on the payout", the fact that an Ambi stick is available off the shelf is more important and valuable to me than me making money off of it.


    Second, my website is the best I can do with a social security income.


    Yes, the main appeal to fighters would have been in the SF2 era, where a right stick would give enough people an advantage in pulling off dragon punches.  As I said, intermediate and higher fighters with thousands of hours of practice would probably not want to relearn things unless it gave them an edge.  That's why one way to market it is an off the shelf first, beginner's stick, as in when you're not sure whether you want a left handed or right handed stick. 


    Thank you for saying there is more to joysticks than just fighters, Schmups and maze games are 2 big genres where joysticks are better. Actually by default, I prefer joystick over pad for about everything unless there is a specific reason I need an analog control. Also speed runners prefer digital controls to analog ones for easy repeatability.


    In one sense, it is 2 sticks in one, a lefty and a righty, just not both at the same time.  If you want a left stick for certain games and a right stick for certain other others, this would be handy.  You can easily switch between the 2.  But it is not 2 simultaneous joysticks in 1.  Besides having 2 in 1 in that sense would ruin the joystick, forcing both people to go left stick or right stick together, instead of making them independent 


    BTW Hori is a video game  controller and accessory company who happens to make something the fight game community finds priceless.  They are not primarily an FGC cultural company and one of their products is a fight stick.  The American division saw lots of value in an easy to ambidextrize joystick.  


    Also I designed it so you do not have to be a solder surgeon or spend big bucks for a custom to a decent joystick.


    Also a problem NOT compensated for in the joystick you showed was that, depending on the game, mirror mapping may be different.  For a 2 button game, there are 2 choices:

    index to index:

    AB J BA

    which is what most games use, which is the reason why I disliked the Sega SMS Joystick (it followed the below mapping) 

    and left-to-left

    AB J AB

    which is usually only handy when the "action" is directed in one of 2 ways, like in Tutankham and Side Arms, firing left and firing right.


    Do the buttons shift to an index-to-index mapping, or is this fixed:





    and not able to turn to:






    When you got 6 buttons and many different design theories about button placements, the ability to swap button arrangements comes in handy.


    I understand the Xbox One and Series  and Nintendo  Switch, (as well as the PS4 and PS4 I assume, but don't know due to lack of personal experience) all have remappable controls, though there are a couple of flaws.  Xbox's being analog inflexibility on "all digital" games, and Nintendo's flaw being always assuming you want movement on the left to the point of making Link, a canonically sword-left handed character into a sword-right one, (at least for Twilight Princess and Skyward Sword,) despite the fact the Wiimote and Nunchuk are "naturally Ambidexterous".


    This stick is also to make up for previous formats which didn't have joystick. Let alone joystick hand options.  With the N64 and Wii Classic having few stick peripherals and no Cthulhu or Brook Retro support, this may come in handy.


    Thanks for the advice.  I knew most of the people who appreciate it are in the Atari Age audience.  That's why I discussed it on AA and shoryuken.com simultaneously.


    Also Schmup-playing people are using their right index finger as an over-glorifed brick.  (90%+ of modern vertical/horizontal  shooters have neither an incentive to hold your fire  nor the requirement of testing your rapid fire finger)


    Finally, since you've been to my website, you might have seen my claim that not only I but 4 other common friends went from losing to him (one person loses 2 out of 3 matches, the other 3 plus me were blanked by him). to NEVER losing to him.  4 people went from zero to hero.  And the only difference was the right hand stick.  We even tested a left hand stick, and only one person improved from 1/3 wins to 2/3 wins, everyone else was zeroed. The right hand stick was the key...


    ...but then again, we were playing the  Genesis version of Street Fighter: New Challengers, which has less leniency on the joystick special manuvers than later Capcom games, along with more punishing specials, and small, accidental combos instead of large,  engineered ones.  It makes sense that a natural right hander might prefer a right stick in this case if no muscle memory was attributed to them.


    By the way, two things kept that model from selling better.  One is the fact that it was not for every system but was just PS3 where the regions where ambidexterity would have done well prefer Xbox for Street Fighter over PlayStation, two is it was not authorized by any console maker, and for new systems that means warranty hell if your system ever needs repair.


    I think I have correctly identifies and solved the economics of fight stick ambidexterity, mainly through living life with arcades and home systems.  All I know is I got a custom fight stick not because I wanted  a cool bling stick, or to microimprove small details.   It was to fix a fundamental flaw in the market that couldn't be satisfied by the "big players".  Well Hori USA said my design solved the economic issues of a mass market off-the-shelf right stick. Thought making all lefty is a better market that trying to predict the left vs right ratio, and have surpluses of one type and shortages of the other if they guess wrong, all ambi sticks is better than all lefty sticks assuming all other factors are equal.  Hori USA said the gains that are made in making profitable ambis is greater than  the loss due to slight contour differences and inefficiencies. 


  22. Hello.


    I got a big physical collection of over 3,000 original games.


    I'm in a situation where I literally have no heirs I know of.


    I got a couple questions about the Now versus later, and what is essential in enjoying video games.


    I've heard that owning a decent PC helps one play certain classic video games online if there is a community for them that bothered programming a server for the game.


    I also heard for single player games or local multiplayer it's more important to own the original machine than it is to own the original game delivery method, (cartridge/CD).


    The original ROM data just straight dumped should be able to play on an everdrive type cartridge for machine.  Is that correct? I heard it plays exactly like a legitimate version of the ROM on a real machine if you play an everdrive on a real machine.  So if I want a true life experience save my machines and controllers but sell the software.


    Now remember I have very poor internet at only 5 MB in 5 megabits out.  I should start out with the machines that have the smaller sized games.  I should wait to get the CDs sized, and the DVD sized games when I have a faster connection.


    Usually it's a good idea to wait until something is two Generations old if you don't want a label as a pirate.


    Is it correct to assume that every cartridge based system from the Atari 2600 and Fairchild Channel F all the way up to the Neo Geo Pocket Color and Game Boy Advance has a everdrive or some equivalent thereof, that let you run downloads on real hardware.


    Are ever drives considered multi-region where you can play any regions' game on any regions' console?  Also Everdrives lets you play games and buy the virtual version license of retro brews to support new development for old consoles.


    As for the size of the game and libraries I think I know what the size of a typical game is everything before the Master System was 1 megabit or less.  Then cartridges crept up to 64 MB by the time the N64 came out and that was the largest cartridge until the switch had their new proprietary game paks.


    If internet speed wasn't an issue, is there a solution for CD based games?  Like for example I do have the Sega CD for my Genesis and 32x but I don't have the CD for the Turbo Grafx 16 or Atari Jaguar. I would prefer a removable solution like something that sticks in an auxiliary part as opposed to getting rid of the CD drive and putting in a flash based ROM reader. Let me keep some of my legitimate games until it makes more sense to sell my CD and higher media.


    I heard therewere different versions of ROMs.  Both differences in raw ROMs, the original ColecoVision Donkey Kong and the corrected ColecoVision,  and differences in ROM files you use for particular emulators.  


    I have friends who buy play and collect video games.  Even if I get more from strangers on eBay I would prefer to sell them to my friends.


    Finally, I cannot make too much money, or else I risk losing Social Security and Medicaid.


    I guess I could trade with my friends give them the cartridges and in return get ever drive equipment a computer for online gaming something to bring decent internet to the house temporarily, and it would also make it easier if mom and dad die before me if my brother and I have to move to a smaller place having less cartridges to move around would make things easier.


    Also I heard if you want to play light gun games the way they were meant to be played, keep your CRT TVs.  Go through as few conversions as possible.


    I just want some answers to these questions because these cartridges would be more valuable to my friends as collectibles than they would be to me as an estate when I'm dead.  And I could still play the games by a PC emulation and everdrive with real hardware.


    Finally is there a place to look up original instruction booklets.  I remember the old days I had to buy a CD on eBay and have it printed out on paper or look directly on disc for it.  Is there either a disc or a website full of original instructions and box art?


    I'm saying I could probably get more value out of real media by giving it to my friends and getting ever drive and emulation equipment then after I'm dead having the government take my stuff because I was on Social Security.


    Just wondering if I'm making sense.







  23. I guess this is the most general place to post general news about controllers.  It's not specific to one system, one company,  or one era.


    If you search my username, you'll hear me talk about my joystick, or if you visit my website sinisterstick.com


    A few months ago Hori USA said they love the design they think it would sell well in America but there was no way the main Japanese office would accept it.


    Thanks to advice from a few guys on Atari Age, I should try to figure out if if a the poison pill that killed it automatically in Japan is right-stick and B if it is not that sort of poison pill, what would make it accepted in Hori of Japan's eyes?  In other words is there some deeper or better way to get such a thing made.


    I discussed how the main reason there were no such thing as Ambi sticks were the economics of Ambi sticks and I believe I've solved at least 90% of the problems associated with either an ambidextrous joysticks the way they were at the time , or having separate left and right handed models.  I told him I understood why the Second Golden Rule is the reason why most joysticks are left-handed, (the arcade owner pays the bills and they want to minimize time on each quarter.). However the consumer is more of the boss than the arcade owner is on home joysticks.


    Blah blah blah blah blah blah, and then the manager at Hori USA said I am correct, that I solved 90% of the problems of separate left and right models as well as an ambidextrous model relying on the Beeshu mirroring tactic.  Twice as much wire is a lot cheaper than twice as many buttons.


    So this is what he told me.  Some things have a certain deadline like the Xbox Series joysticks the PS5 joysticks and any joysticks based on a particular title that have a vanity stick for it.  But he said, sometime, when there's a gap between vanity sticks, he'll send it to Hori of Japan.



    I understand it is not the final hurdle, but I'm not eliminated from the race yet.

  24. I recently tested out the srgb for the turbo graphics 16 versus the hyperkin HDMI adapter.


    I think my card has a tendency to not plug in straight by missing a few plugs.


    I generally like the srgb better because it's brighter and because on a CRT monitor has no ping.


    The hyperkin looked way darker and added an extra frame of ping.


    I couldn't tell if the colors are off or not.


    I understand it was a naked PCB so that it could fit any NEC / Hudson console.


    I only got in a turbo graphics when I found one in the 00s at a yard sale.  I assume you could ship separately a shell to go around the PCB and it would fit if one knew what type they had.


    I assume there are only two types of connectors one for the early American turbo grafx 16s, and the other for later American era and all Japanese TG 16s, which was called the PC engine in Japan.


    If these srgb boards are print on demand then why can't there be separate shells that go with it.


    I would do it myself if I both had and knew how to use a 3D printer.  But since neither reply to me I was wondering if a place has premade shells for these srgb's.


    PS I know mine is an American type because the hyperkin model worked (as much as it did work)  without an adapter.


    Also could someone review my video to make sure that the colors weren't off.


    The Devil's Crush title screen had a more orange and red feel look like it had no blue and the text was in yellow print.  Is that an indicator of me missing the blue pin?  Video here :

    Ooh this video misembedded.  

    Go to Twitch.tv/tripletopper and look up a video from 2 or 3 days ago about an hour long, a minute into it.  And later compare for the Hyperkin adapter comparison.  


    PS the editor wouldn't let me erase the embedding, and did a simple copy link and paste in text format and it embedded automatically. I wasn't trying to imbed.

  25. Hello I'm currently getting my Virtual Boy modded to play on a VGA monitor.


    Does anyone know a way to easily purchase or by using parts from an existing Sega Game gear to make a consulized Sega Game gear for streaming on Twitch?


    I heard there was a talk of a mega Game gear which was a 32x cartridge with a slot for a Game Gear cartridge.  (It would have been Genesis except Genesis had too few either simultaneous colors or possible colors).


    By the way I don't see what's wrong with a GameCube playing the game boy on The Game Boy advance.  I heard there were only problems if you were trying to capture it by a HDMI or play it's on an HDMI TV.  If you want native s video into a capture card and CRT TV at the same time, with the CRT being able to do 480i and 240p, did I heard there was no problems.  That the major ping problems were upscaling.


    Is that a fairly accurate state of playing portables on Twitch?

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