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tripletopper

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Posts posted by tripletopper


  1. On 3/5/2020 at 8:38 AM, CatPix said:

    They both have analog signals but analog video television RGB is interlaced (meaning that when displaying a picture, it only draw the odd lines, then the even lines at the next refresh).

    VGA is progressive, meaning that it draw each line down.

    Most modern VGA display doesn't understand interlaced video signals. 80's and early 90's VGA display may understand them as a few VGA video cards were producing interlaced video signals (I have a 286 computer with a video card able to display a 1024*768 interlaced video signal) but it's not a common rule.

    An active converter is required to double the lines if your monitor isn't compatible.

    I kind of figured as such.  But the main question is is the conversion time from interlace to progressive significantly less than a hundred microseconds.  The quickest non CRT TV has about 9 milliseconds of draw time.  So 1% of that would be about a hundred microseconds.  and most people whose primary concern is the actual gameplay would probably agree that gaining 100 microseconds of ping  to chop off 10 milliseconds of draw time ping is a good trade-off for literally everything except light gun games .

     

    so is the conversion time quick enough work makes sense the play non CRT old school games on a VGA CRT? 

     

     

    By the way, my Apple Macintosh from 2008 has an output that could go to composites and S video and my monitor and TV could display simultaneously and the TV is ahead of my built-in monitor.  at first it starts as a progressive manager so maybe a few monitors to have built-in progressive interlace changers.  So I think a 2008 monitor would be able to do interlaced as well as progressive, that an old-school VGA CRT should also deal with progressive and interlace mode correctly.  but if not it's worth the pay the few extra bucks and start off with the active converter.


  2. Do you see any schmups where 90% of the skillset is manually rapid firing?  No, pre crash schmups gave maximum onscreen shots.  Most modern schmups you might as well put a brick on the fire button, so there no advantage to rapid firing the shoot button, which is right hand.

     

    There's a reason why they are  called "bullet hell" shooters.  The biggest skill is dodging, not shooting.  And guess what? It's a left handed joystick.

     

    Other than R-Type, where you alternate between manual rapid firing and "charge shot", I can't think of too many shooters where manual rapid firing is a skill you need to master to win.

     

    also people on the Dragon Punch website, people notice that joystick maneuvers are more lenient as time goes on.  Also special moves are moving towards the same strength as a "regular attack" as time went on.

     

    I actually peaked at SF2NC, if I use a right stick. The other one Capcom Fighter I was awesome at was the Saturn version of X-Men vs Street Fighter, where I beat level 8 CPU on one credit, just by using smart tag team strategy, despite having a left stick only.

     

    The main rule of arcades is "the house always wins". When you compete vs the CPU, that means shortening credit length.  Street Fighter 2 threw that out the window, having lineups to challenge the champ.  So allowing right handed was used in the "Mexican" version.

     

    By the way, does anyone believe my zero to hero story about switching sides had both me and 4 common friends beat a famous 00s era Reality Basic Cable TV gamer, ten years before his first show? Band he always best us normally, and switching hands turned the tables from always losing to always winning?  Most people on the Dragon Punch website do not believe me, or they think it was a fluke.  It says something about the Dragon Punch website.

     


  3. I'm trying to use a CRT VGA monitor as a low ping way the play both old and new games.

     

    I heard over 99% of the culpri, even in game safe mode is the draw time which is prevalent on anything but a CRT.

     

    The most competitive TN monitors have 9 milliseconds.  If these converters take at most 9 microseconds the new saved 99.9% of the delay.

     

    By the way SCART and VGA have analog RGB signal, correct?  The worst I'm going to have to do is it just height for signal aspect ratios and zooming in 


  4. Also one final question does DCART contain Dolby 5.1 encoded information or not?  The reason why I ask is to see whether it's futile to take sound out of scarf or not.  I got a way to do it for analog sound with L/R but I'm not sure if Dolby or DTS surround information is carried on those 21 pins are.  if it doesn't carry Dolby or DTS information, or 6 independent sound channels, there's no point trying to extract what's not there.


  5. Yes I was wondering how well do scart and VGA play well with each other?  I've seen passive adapters that go to both or red green blue RCA not sure whether it's RGB fornat or YPbPr format.

     

    I did buy a mayflash VGA back and forth to YPbPr.  If a connection between scart and VGA is pretty much passive then since I'm using a VGA monitor as a CRT,  Then it should work for everything and have a short enough delay for everything except light gun games.

     

    Also I see both active and passive composites an S-Video connectors to VGA.  And I do not know what is available on ntsc RF to VGA.  These items on Amazon and eBay do not make it clear what the source of the video is and what the destination of the TV is.  To and from could be a matter of perspective depending on which way you're starting from.  I'm looking for taking S-video on Nintendo 64 and Atari Jaguar I'm putting it in the VGA TV.  NES would use composite.  Atari 7800 and earlier with ntsc RF.  All the other systems I have either use scart RGB or ypbpr 3 RCA.

     

    So for S-Video and composite,. Do I want the active connector or the passive connector?

     

    Is there such a thing as Direct ntsc rf 2 VGA?  If not I can make one extra step of tuning the ntsc using the smallest thing I could find with a tuner and 8 mm tape recorder and player with tuner built in.


  6. Amy one a baseball, hockey, or golf mother, father, or junior level organized coach?

     

    When a child is young enough to want to play, how early should the issue of right-handed vs left-handed be determined?

     

    Especially on comparison to:

     

    a) a brand of glove maker, club maker it stick maker.

    B) if there are personal feature differences in the equipment other that sizes, any of those.

     

    More people here would agree that L/R is one of the first decisions made.  On the cartoon Doug, when Patti Mayonnaise realized Doug Funnie was left handed, she immediately called time, switched him around, and he got a bottom of the 9th 2 out hit to continue the game.

     

    A lot of people on the "dragon punch website" think brand and features are more fundamental choices than right- or left-handed.

     

    I'm scoffed at there, despite my evidence, but personal and more universally available.  It seems they have a "polo attitude" at the Dragon Punch website.

     

    First,  the only reason they gave an "all rightie" rule in Polo is to prevent dangerous things that can happen if horses charge each other head-on.

     

    Second, the change was cause by arcade owners trying to shorten credits, and it just bled into the home market.

     

    Is there a sense of elitism I sniff at the Dragon Punch Website, like. "no one designs sticks for mass market improvement.  Everyone gets it custom built."?

     

    If Beeshu was still around. I would not be looking for custom joysticks.

     

    I think I have a theory why Beeshu is not in business   I'm doing a job no one else wants.  And hopefully a big stick maker can see it. And I can show that ambi sticks are better than lefty only.


  7. If a joystick is fundamentally the same on the system, why no make it universal?  It's cheaper and allows better parts on the stick itself.

     

    Besides my joystick has a 4/8 way switch on it just rotate something 45 degrees and a square gate becomes a diamond gate.

     

    By the way in 8-way games I prefer a square gate anyway.  It makes you hit what you want.  No confusion about Cardinals versus diagonals.


  8. Sorry

    1. Sorry about the misspelling but I still haven't found a HTML editor that edits human visible text and code text separately.

     

    heck the spell check thinks all the HTML code are errors, even the correctly working ones.  So when everything is an error, nothing is.

     

    And talk typing on a voice recognition microphone sometimes misunderstands you and you don't realize it until it's too late.

     

    2. I tried to make the ultimate ambidextrous joystick.  I noticed B shoe failed because they relied on mirrored buttons which started getting expensive with Sega Genesis 3 button and then suddenly with Street Fighter would have become ridiculous.

     

    I have a quite a few functions that have been done before on other Street Fighter self sticks that's singly make a small difference but all these combined make much bigger difference in the sum of their parts.

     

    A.  A DB37 connection I'm both the front half and the back half of the joystick, regardless of which way you define front. Just oriented so that PCB plugs in the back porch and it's automatically arranged in the Capcom arrangement.  one reason I thought this would work which you did is because I noticed when a capture card is Y split so that you could do like gun games, some capture cards if you don't power the signal before the split the signal will not be powerful enough to be picked up by the capture card.  but having only one of the two plugged in does have enough power to do its job and the other is just as useless as a handle is on a GameCube.

     

    I use that principle for S video input so that I can do is plug either one male or one female in and don't have to take out any adapters because the more you play with SVU adapters the more likely the pins will bend.

     

    B. Another reason I use a db37 is to swap out 1 PCB like a Cthulhu for mid-classic systems,  a brook universal for modern systems an individually modded pcbs for Genesis and a few older systems,  plus a direct connection for Atari, Bally, and Sega Master System, and if I had one,  a Neo Geo.

     

    C.  A third reason why I use db37 it's because right-handed arrangements do not automatically conform with left hand arrangements by default.  Most games where you have a mean button and secondary button I call index index games, meaning you want your rapid fire on your index button.  All Beshus assume index to index mapping.  the Sega made joystick for the Master System assumes the opposite and it ruins 100% of the games.  It's called left to left mapping. Games where that would be considered good would be tutankhamand Side Arms, both of which have a left fire and right fire action.  Those few games would actually work on a Sega Master System joystick, but I don't know any titles that would.  The two titles I could think of are 1 ColecoVision/Intellivision and one turbo graphics title.

     

    And that was back in the two button days, when you have three buttons or six buttons you can't rely on the software to automatically set up for you that's why I'm using the handicap style 3.5 mm cables what each one carries a signal and can be swappable.  That also comes handy in games where you want to invert y-axis where you can't and vice versa.  Looking at you Zaxxon.  That face is a complete but the theory of sound.

     

    how hard are some common ones that get repeated that you can buy a pre-wired db37 female to male adapter for things use a lot, like how all Super NES fight stick PCBs  assume a BAR arrangement as the row of kicks.  But mega Man Super Mario Brothers and quite a few other games would benefit by the original arrangement used in Super NES arrangement,  the YBA arrangement.  None of the PCB makers were there Cthulhu, PS360+, or Brook retro made that adjustment.  Fortunately for me, I can.

     

    D.  Finally outside of numeric keypads so far the most buttons a machine needs is 18.  I found a design flaw in Edladdin' ColecoVision super action PCB.  If you swap buttons but don't swap the appropriate ground, because the fact that ColecoVision has two different rounds, since 3.5 mm signals naturally have three different parts, the grounds can be segregated and corresponding to each function.  If left fire uses groubd A and right fire uses ground B, if each button has its own ground signal that is guaranteed to correspond to hook up right if it matters.  For every other system it does work eventually linking to a single ground.

     

    E.  If I'm going to spend $500 plus on a prototype joystick I wanted to work with as many video game consoles as possible.  

     

    So phase one is complete and, as I predicted plugging in the back of the left hand has a standard arrangement, and plugging in the back of the right hand gives you a mirrored layout these following pairs swap.

     

    I was inspired in 1999 by getting an Interact DC alloy stick. I was able to get it working by rotating the stick and swapping N and S,.  W and E ,  QP and QK, MP and MK, HP and HK, 3P and 3K.

     

    The problem is threefold.  One is the ergonomics do not 180 well.  The second is with a Street Fighter 15 Stick for PS2 and Xbox Prime Stick, it only works with PS2, Xbox Prime, and certain system converters. As long as you use only.  Something gets lost double translation, so a one input to one pin solution works, because a PCB takes uncoded input and codes it in exactly the language you need.

     

    The third problem is more subtle.  If I win a prize for winning a tournament, people will suspect I'm cheating.  And if I wanted to. I could.  But if I were honest, every match with he action and joystick motions synched have to be studied with a freeze frame and zoom.  Because it has programmability, which can be activated in a hidden way, I have to PROVE I'm innocent.

     

    So mine will have no cheat features unless you add them externally.

     

     


  9. I was literally the first person on a different form mainly focus on fighting games convention what I think was a great joystick company.

     

    This inspired me to make my own joystick recently ticket in you on the legacy of Breshu.

     

    If you remember from the NES until the Genesis the shoe made a whole bunch of controllers. Some flopped, but the big winner was super stick.  the main advantage the Beeshu Superstick had was that was both left-handed and right-handed.

     

    I remembered it was a whole line of NES Advantage competitors some even bkatently ripped off the look.  I don't know if anyone could remember any brand Advantage clone, but Nintendo had a big campaign against them in Nintendo Power.  

     

    Most of the other ones in survive, but if I was an indicator of the rest of the market beeshus I heard were pretty well.  After beast you got a license turbo Grafx 16 for similar design and a Genesis 3 button version,. Nintendo finally let Beeshu join the seal of approval club.

     

    The people on this other site, we'll call it the "dragon punch" site, had this one guy said that Beeshus are really cheaply constructed.  

     

    I noticed the nesb shoe had something that the NES Advantage didn't have (besides ambidexterity), a clicky joystick.  Most people on that site love clicky joysticks as a fighting game website but turn their nose at Beeshu.  I meant websites which is a lot of joystick references,  the word Beeshu never brought up until I posted it.  I corrected this guy's lies / disinformation (depending on whether it was deliberate or not) that it was unauthorized junk.

     

    Did you stop playing these video games that require joysticks because there was no off-the-shelf right-handed joystick after Beeshu went out of business?

     

    And I think I understand the reason.  if I get some responses I'd like to talk and listen about why Beeshu failed after Street Fighter, and is the current fightstick market looking for an ambidextrous joystick?  I believe I found the reason why be shoe failed and I have a design mucho overcome Beeshu's flaw of mirrored buttons on the left and right side of joystick.  If you want to see my solution one of two I have, visit SinisterSticks.com and take a look at my 180 design that's not an American style.


  10. I know a site labeled Atari Age tries to discuss other gaming issues and topics on the forum should be related to Atari.

     

    Maybe classic consoles, computers, and handhelds can be measured with Atari as a meterstick.

     

    I notice that systems after 3DO and before Xbox One are totally skipped.

     

    The first both is the Atari related stuff like dedicated home units, arcade, 2600, 5200, 7800, 800, Lynx, Jaguar, etc...

     

    And then the categories for others, could be grouped into groups organized by Atari.

     

    pre Odyssey 2 Magnavox and Coleco and others would compete against dedicateds.

     

    Fairchild. RCA. Bally Astrocade and Odyssey2 is vs 2600.

     

    Intellivision, Colecovosion. Emerson Arcadia 2001, and Vectrex vs the 5200

     

    NES, SMS, Vs 7800.

     

    SNES. Genesis, Neo Geo, TG16, Cdi and 3DO vs Jaguar

     

    Game boy, Game Gear, and Turbo Express vs Lynx.

     

    Apple II, Commodore Vic 20, 64, TRS-80, and IBM vs 400/800

     

    Amiga vs Macintosh vs ST

     

    These systems are skipped.  AI hope generations ate obvious:

     

    Saturn, PS1, N64

     

    Dreamcast, PS2, Xbox, Game Cube, Xavix,

     

    360, PS3, WII

     

    WII U, Xbox One, PS4 (would Switch be here or next one?)

     

    Then there could be "era topics" like "system wars" about any "playground points". " High score club". "Dare to Compare"  about multiconsole games.

    "Tech then and now" about the projects that make yesterday's systems better with new homebrews be and new inventions, Ali's discussing motebtech points.

     

    I just feel weird about putting non high score items in a system specific item, even though it's not a high score, there's no "general" system folder.

     

    Where can I say X-Men Vs Street Fighter could have fueled a "Saturn offers what Playstashuns" system war ad.

    • Haha 1

  11. Hello I got my joystick in the mail from my joystick maker.

     

    supposedly it works for the Sega Genesis 3 button 6 button and all systems that work with the paradise arcade cthulhu.  however it's kind of hard to test it when the Cthulhu and the to Genesis pcbs are naked.

     

    Now between everything it's an over $500 prototype,. And I was afraid to touch it, when I saw the naked pcbs.  I don't know if it takes very little forced to yank wire off or if my hand goes through it while it's running if I get an electric shock.  I don't need to actively work with the PCB anymore so I would like to see what up in a way that is weatherproof,damage proof, has the cords which my joystick system hooks up in an easily accessible position.

     

    I thought I asked my guy to put them in boxes and apparently he didn't.

     

    Normally I go to shoryuken.com forums, but I'm getting errors when I go to the forum page. and they see new stories of the forms being moved in 2018. I was able to use it in December 2019.

     

    so could someone either tell me how to get to show you can forms when it's probably more experts on fightsticks specifically,. But I am aware that there are enough electrically engineering minded people an Atari age you do some weird stuff that actually works, and idea wise I might be considered one of them but have no knowledge of how to physically build it myself.  I know there are Jaguar spinners available, 5200 joystick alternatives, and other peripheral hacks, so this might be just as good too.

     

    so I got three naked pcbs and I'm unsure of a way to safely use them without risking damaging either the joystick the PCB on my house. I understand if I'm real Ginger with them I could play them in theory, but I know I'm klutzy enough where I could accidentally ruin something without knowing it.  I'm trying to protect it against myself.

     

    First of all this is a prototype so I don't need a specifically made box for this. If I could cannibalize a metal box a plastic box a cardboard box whatever and make it work with it that would work well to.

     

    The main questions are which materials are good to use with joystick PCBs, how do I prevent the PCB from rattling while in the Box, ( and rattling increases the chances of disconnected wires or scratch pcbs,) and basically I don't have any special tools to cut the holes.  Just a knife scissors and other household tools.

     

    once I close these pcbs that it should be pretty safe for me to use them with the joystick system.  by the way I would broadcasting on Twitch but that's another issue that I'm going to post a few minutes.


  12. 1 minute ago, tripletopper said:

    The only REAL solution for light games is a short path with no processing and a TV with NTSC, Composite, S Video. and component, and splitting the path with a powered splitter and then process one path.

     

    I do have a separate roomier downstairs area for gun games   I just need a few things set up for it.

     

    I noticed the 1ms maximum present in a Hauppauge rocket, and HD games play no different.  You can't feel 1 Ms in gameplay.

     

    I was planning in using a VGA CRT monitor, because I don't want a 3 display setup.  If a VGA CRT monitor had at most a 1ms delay.  The non-light gun games are perfectly fine.  A VCR never threw off my timing, and Hauppauge hasn't either.

     

    but it throws off your aim crazy in light guns games.  Even an NTSC RF to Composite converter built into VHS and Beta VCRs throw off a few pixels to the right.  And gun games with calibration COULD compensate for VCR ping times.

     

    I can feel the delay on a PS3DTV vs a CRT which was good at the time, but was not good enough.  But I can't feel a PS3DTV with a Hauppauge vs without one

     

    All I need to know is if delay was good enough for non light gun / Sega Scope games. 1 Ms is a good ceiling to shoot for.

    Mainly I need some view blockers to block out a blurry basement.  And MAYBE? my cellular bandwidth is lower in the basement, and my maximum possible land based network is not defined as broadband by the 2010 definition.


  13. 16 hours ago, phoenixdownita said:

    http://15khz.wikidot.com/

     

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ZvZycoKawBLtK_k7wNFXUwgMD9nMNRfTBbM8T57ZzUY/

    (from http://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=85693 )

     

    If you have a solution for light gun games what's preventing you from using it for all of your twitch gaming needs?

    The only REAL solution for light games is a short path with no processing and a TV with NTSC, Composite, S Video. and component, and splitting the path with a powered splitter and then process one path.

     

    I do have a separate roomier downstairs area for gun games   I just need a few things set up for it.

     

    I noticed the 1ms maximum present in a Hauppauge rocket, and HD games play no different.  You can't feel 1 Ms in gameplay.

     

    I was planning in using a VGA CRT monitor, because I don't want a 3 display setup.  If a VGA CRT monitor had at most a 1ms delay.  The non-light gun games are perfectly fine.  A VCR never threw off my timing, and Hauppauge hasn't either.

     

    but it throws off your aim crazy in light guns games.  Even an NTSC RF to Composite converter built into VHS and Beta VCRs throw off a few pixels to the right.  And gun games with calibration COULD compensate for VCR ping times.

     

    I can feel the delay on a PS3DTV vs a CRT which was good at the time, but was not good enough.  But I can't feel a PS3DTV with a Hauppauge vs without one

     

    All I need to know is if delay was good enough for non light gun / Sega Scope games. 1 Ms is a good ceiling to shoot for.


  14. 19 hours ago, CatPix said:

     

     

    6. The issue with VGA is that you can convert RGB to VGA with no delay BUT only if your VGA device support 15 htz refresh. Some old Multisync display might do that, other won't. If it doesn't, you'll need a converter like the OSSC and you might as well use HDMI.

     

     

    My monitor is a Compaq FS740.  I can look in my instruction and tell you resolution/frame combos it CAN do.  You just need to tell me what is considered "acceptable matches" for various SCART systems.

     

    As for a SCART vs JP21 tested, I have bought an Audio/composite/ SVideo extractor.  It hasn't come yet, but it has SCART in and SCART out, I assume I can use THAT as SCART tester.  At least I know the consequences of the wrong format error is benign.

     

    And the main thing I'm trying to save ping time.  Does HDMI to VGA conversion time cost more than 8 ms, the "draw time" of a typical HDMI flat monitor, even TN ones?

     

    In all these examples 1ms ping is considered insignificant for all games except light gun and Sega Scope games.  Any delay LONGER than 1ms I'd like to be aware of.  That's the degree of ping I'm looking to avoid.  I'm not nitpicking about microseconds.  If I want light gun games, I'll take the most direct route.

     

    A   I easily see Composite/S-Video to VGA adapters with a processor box in the middle.

     

    a. Should I assume you need the active one to convert Composite/S Video to VGA and passive to go the other way?  There are discrepencies that confuse me if I took blind faith in Ebay.

     

    b. Less than 1ms?

     

    HDMI to VGA, the whole point of this hookup is to save ping time of draw time.  1ms or less?

     

    If I got these 2 things settled, then the only thing remaining are Component to VGA adapter.  And if SCART is better to convert to VGA directly,l vs to Component.  then I need either:

     

    a. A 1 in 2 out SCART,  + one end to VGA the other to HDMI,

    Or

    B.  SCART to VGA, a 1 in 2 out VGA and a VGA to HDMI converter.

     

    The HDMI path is more acceptable to have more ping on.  The important thing is that the VGA path is clear.

     

     


  15. From the perspective of an Amercian, I heard there are 2 formats that the average American can not distinguish unless trained in the secret.  They also unlock the most colorful pictures on SDTV.  I also want to broadcast it on twitch. 

     

    1.  What is the name of the oft-confused Japanese SCART-like standard?

     

    2.  How does an American, who usually never sees this standard, tell the difference visual, it do you have to go on blind faith?

     

    3.  Is there some sort of EU/JPN tester that can answer that impericalky?

     

    4.  If some converter between these standards, and is it a 2 was devicez must are there 2 different ones, one for each way?

     

    5.  Someone told me a voltage pin was different?  First can one physically both types in the same hole? If one does the fit, but uses the wrong standard, are the consequences benign (see there's no picture and quit, or use adapter) or severe (one such misplug will permanently ruin your system) ?

     

    6.  If I have NTSC RF, composite, S-Video, component and HDMI ins, and require 1 HDMI our and One VGA out, what is the best was to deal with SCART to guarantee it works and have minimal delay on the VGA path?

     

    7.  Is it better to convert the non SCARTs to HDMI first THEN to VGA, or the other way?


  16. 1 hour ago, carlsson said:

    Right now, I see nothing. You could try to at least write down the item number or link to the auction.

     

    I found this cable, which I'm not quite sure where it belongs or how it should be used.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1m-Home-Theatre-Scart-21pin-to-3x-Phono-RGB-RCA-YUV-Video-Cable-Lead-Adapter/272725305232

     

    I also found this nice item which I never have seen before. It matches what I tried to describe above.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scart-Adapter-Scart-male-to-4x-RCA-female-RGB-Composite/362207446534

    The second one was it ...kind of.  The picture had a red, blue and green hole, and if you zoom in, the picture says  Y Cb and Cr.

     

    The one I actually got doesn't letters. And I'm not sure if it's SCART to component, or vice versa, or even if RCAs are made for YPbPr or are RGB.

     

    By the way, there is no yellow hole, not an input/output switch.


  17. 4 hours ago, carlsson said:

    Do you have a picture or two? Is that a cable or an adaptor? I believe for RGB you would want composite sync too, so four RCA connectors. The odds are that you found an adaptor for composite video (yellow) + stereo sound (red + white) which sometimes can be switched between input or output. For that matter SCART only carries RGB, not component video YPbPr.

    I would like to send you a picture, but either Atari Age or Android won't let me put a screenshot taken in memory and use it.  Atari She's only options are "use existing attachment" or "from URL". Nothing that says "from memory".


  18. 3 hours ago, carlsson said:

    Do you have a picture or two? Is that a cable or an adaptor? I believe for RGB you would want composite sync too, so four RCA connectors. The odds are that you found an adaptor for composite video (yellow) + stereo sound (red + white) which sometimes can be switched between input or output. For that matter SCART only carries RGB, not component video YPbPr.

    I was hoping I got a SCART to 3 RCA YPbPr adapter.

     

    This is what I bought.

     

    (How do you get a recent screenshot sent?  I'd like to share my screenshot to show you, but somehow, Android won'f let me share my screenshot of an eBay item.  Help)

     

     

     

     

     


  19. On 2/1/2020 at 7:05 PM, mr_me said:

    A crt VGA monitor should be analog so there should be no latency except for the conversion.

     

    There's lots of different quality CRT vga monitors out there.  Different dot pitch for finer details and different phosphor persistence for high refresh rate.  I could see a low persistence monitor flickering with a low refresh video signal.  And a very high resolution monitor showing scanlines.  Typically scanlines are hard to see at normal distance.  Also keep in mind that a 240p picture is line doubled for vga so you lose the scan lines at vga resolution.

    I understand you need an active adapter for 240p/480i to VGA , and if a VCR adds enough lag to throw off a light gun game, then light gun accuracy is too much to expect.  (That's why I have a separate light gun TV.)

     

    But is the lag typically 1 ms or less, kind of like the Hauppauge Rocket delay times when recording?  And 1ms should be beating the LCDs built in 8 ms draw time, and should not throw off games meant for CRTs other than gun games, right?

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