tripletopper

Yes I see the wiring diagram, and I see earlier the Flashback Pins. I can use those. I was curious, and just don’t know if it’s possible, if you could have a hybrid Direct Pin for the 8 directions using the circuit on the link above and simultaneously have direct electronic actuation of buttons and keys, simultaneously. If it could be done, I would need a W-splitter, 3 in, one out. One for the direct pins of the joystick, one for the 3.5 actuated buttons, and one for a real flashback controller all running into a flashback modded INTV. Can the joystick be actuated by the logic circuit mention in the last link above, as well as the buttons and keys be actuated by direct pad-hack input, and have a third one accept finger input of keys?

First of all, I’m not converting from a coded joystick PCB. All directions and buttons on my default controller are represented by individual wires. So In theory, I could hook up one direction to one physical direction on the hacked pad. The whole point of the pad hack method is you don’t have to know how the joystick encodes the signal. Just give it a jolt to activate the button. The 3 side buttons can be done that way. I don’t have to know how the machine codes it, let the hacked controller determine what goes on. The Keypad buttons can also be done in that way. I can have 3.5 mm females installed and let one particular fight stick button equal any of the 12 keypad buttons by making the 3.5 mm connection. All it needs is an electrical impulse to active the button. The problem with the direct pin method for directions is that N pin + E Pin <> NE Code. Instead N Pin +E PIn = NNE code. I could use the first link @wongojack made to make a correct 8-way hookup. I found the name of a part I need to order 3 of for the directions. The problem with direct hookup is that I only have 4 directional inputs, and most consoles work on the basis of diagonals equalling 2 adjacent cardinals. There are 16 regions, and I need 8 of them, but to activate 8 separate regions, I need 8 separate wires for each of the 8 regions If I were to make a diagonal with direct actuation, I have to turn on the diagonal, and turn off the cardinals when diagonals are activated. If someone knows a way to build a logic circuit to convert to 4-cardinal to 8-cardinal+diagonal then the 8 directions can be wired to the 4 cardinals and 4 secondaries, with the secondaries being separate, and therefore locking out the cardinals wen a diagonal was active, that would be appreciated. It also seems weird to use both a direct pin method for the directions and the pad hack method for the buttons and keys. I would prefer the logic circuit which I discussed in post 1. By the way, when using the pad hack method, where and how would one wire the diagonal wire? There’s got to be some point where you wire the electrical impulse generator to "turn on" the secondary, and the primary, separately, and avoid the tertiaries.

Okay, so I don’t need to take apart an INTV controller for anything except using outside buttons to actuate a few keypad presses. I assume for keypad presses I can have 3.5 mm connectors on the buttons, and have those wires plugged into fight stick buttons. Since my INTV 1 is flashback modded, and I have a spare Flashback controller to be taken apart, i could wire 3 buttons directly to the 3 buttons on the side. (Which button is repeated on both sides, the top or bottom? I guess I could look at the various overlays until I find an example, and see which row is the same on both sides and which is not.) and wire 3.5 mm connectors to actuate keypad presses on the fight stick. Plus if I need an actual pad to use an overlay, I could just use a DB9 to wire it. Finally, I just use the Flashback pins. since everything p to the FB->INTV 1 hookup is flashback that would work. I assume I just have to supply a 5V adapter, like a USB cable and a USB cable to AC power receptacle adapter. Then I could power those 3 chips which combine to make a secondary pin actuated to get a secondary diagonal, and avoid tertiaries. Plus my DB 37 has one pin designated as Voltage, would I run the power through the voltage pin or is the voltage separate form the DB9 scheme of the INTV to power the diagonalizer? I could run a USB cable where it says internal connection if my joystick guy can only operate on Joysticks and not on Colnsoles. And if I’m wiring 3 buttons using the pad hack method, then I don’t the extra 5 V and 4.7K something to activate fire buttons. Did I successfully find the parts needed? https://www.mouser.com/_/?Keyword=7400+Quad+NAND&FS=True Are they as simple of hoking up 2 inputs and one output of each chip? Finally, If I want to take it to a Sears Super Telegames, or INTV 2, I just plug a FB->INTV2 adapter on the end closest to the machine, and bring my flashback pad.

Okay, I looked at he links, and saw the cardinals are simple run-throughs, and the diagonal are combinations of the 2 cardinals + a third pin which differentiates it between NE and NNE, but if the third pin is activated with one cardinal only then it’s a different tertiary input. So you only want the pin to activate when a diagonal is activated, and not when a cardinal or neutral is actuated.I assume those numbered circuits are standard parts where you wire 2 inputs and the circuit does its intended job and are available at mouser.com , among other places. For the buttons I got 11 buttons (remember fight stick) So I could designate 3 of those buttons as straight wired into the 3 button pins and the extras is only for a master systems converting 2 buttons into 3. As for the keypad, I can wire in a 3 in-1-out connector have the circuit for the joystick and buttons, have a keypad for straight pressing, and dismantle another keypad with 3.5mm connections for a few key buttons to be key keyboard presses for Mouse Trap where 1I can ahrd wire 4 buttons to be, 2, 3, and 5, used for doors and dog. Finally is Flashback mapping a horizontal mirror opposite to the Original INTV 2 hookup? Is so then 1=5, 2=4, 3=3, 4=2, 5=1, 6=9, 7=8, 8=7, and 9=6, right?

I’m just wondering if there’s a way you can pad hack an INTV. I assume there are 16 contact areas that you can wire, (maybe actuator is the wrong word) Basically you’re pressing exactly 1 button along a 16 button circle, and the button activates certain pins to turn on, So N activate one combination, NNE activates another, NE yet another, etc., all the way around. I assume the disc prevents physically pressing more than one button. If one WERE to physically actuate more than 1, then you get gobbledygook pins. Same with more than one key, except for the pause combination. And I assume more than one button also has problems. So you’re saying there no circuit board, just a bunch y-connected wires which only makes sense if only one direction button or button or key is pressed I got a fight stick with one pin for each cardinal direction, and diagonals made by making combinations or 2 adjacent cardinals. I see Bacman has a 4-way circuit. So a 4-way INTV circuit is easy. But the problem comes with diagonals. I was thinking if there was a way to make a NE signal separate from N+E then I can wire the NE signal into the NE "button" which would activate the NE circuit and not the N or the E circuits. If there were a way instead of having 4 signals equalling 8 directions, to make each of the 8 ways a separate wire, then I run the wire from each of the 8 ways to the 8 ways on the pad with a pad-hack direct wiring. If I were to find such a circuit that does what I suggest, and one is willing to sacrifice a working INTV controller, then this should be easily doable by a guy who knows how to do basic pad hacking. Anyone heard of a circuit which turns component diagonals into discrete diagonals? if so, I can hire my guy to do it for me.

The easiest way to make a universal stick is to have discrete inputs and wire them into a controller. It’s called pad hacking. One problem what the intellivision: Making northeast is different electronically than a simple N+E NE. It's a signal separate from N and E My joystick, as well as pretty much any digital joystick that isn’t Intellivision, has 4 actuators, N, S, E, and W, and diagonals are simultaneous actuation of 2 adjacent cardinals. Is there a circuit with this logic that is either ready to buy or can be made easily by someone who understands it?: 1= N = N AND (NOT (W OR E) 2= NE = N AND E 3= E = E AND (NOT (N OR S) 4= SE = S AND E 5= S = S AND (NOT (W OR E) 6= SW = S AND W 7= W = W AND (NOT (N OR S) 8= NW = N AND W By the way, understand games that need 16 ways cannot be played this way without sacrificing gameplay.

If someone can point me to a circuit which may already exist, already built which can do one thing, then I think I can handle the rest by having my guy cannibalize an INTV Flashback controller. The trickiest part is getter diagonals which are normally simultaneous actuations of 2 non-opposite cardinals and the cardinals being a single cardinal actuated, and getting some sort of circuit to convert the that into 8 discrete wire signals. Once I do that, I can have my guy wire the circuit in an adapter, made by disassembling a INTV Flashback, and viola, instant INTV pad hack. Any such circuit readily available to buy? A web link or a a name of a circuit to look for would be nice. Why reinvent the wheel, when someone may have already done it? I would ask Shoryuken people, but the earliest 99.9% of the people go on there is SNES, Genesis, and, Turbo Grafx 16 or later. Almost no one there deals with Intellivision, so explaining the concept of 8 individual actuators instead of N + E = NE s a big stretch there.

I see people make Master System and 2600 and Genesis adapters to Intellivision. I understand the basic concept, that the intellivision has 16 separate actuator for each direction. And there's a button code which can allow many single inputs, but multiple inputs is gobbledygook. A lot of Intellivision game instructions warn against that. Whereas fight sticks have only 4 cardinal actuators, and the diagonals are 2 cardinals simultaneously.. In other words, forward plus jump equals forward jump. N + E = NE I think I can get part of it by hacking an original INTV controller (or a flashback) The 3 buttons can be solder wired. I assume you can use a Y-cable in DB9 and get a keypad with working buttons together with a cannibalized one to get the joystick and 3 action buttons working. And I assume cannibalizing an INTV controller is the easiest way to get discrete controllers working with coded PCBs The problem is getting the 4 cardinals, when NOT diagonal go to the 4 cardnal spots on the INTV pad that's hacked, AND get the 4 diagonals hacked to a separate 4 actuators. So that it's EITHER a cardinal or a diagonal, but not both. Is there some sort of circuit which can do what is described, turn 4 actuators plus their combinations into 8 separate discrete actuation signals? If someone can point me to that, then I think I can get the rest handled.

Atari always used the best controlled that fit the game. These are specialty contollers, but are in more common use in the Atari universe. You can't play a decent console copy of Marble Madness (I know that's Atari Games which equals Midway) today thanks the lack of a proper control. Another funny thing is that Paddles and 5200 analog stick games were designed to work best with NO autocentering. The auto center ruins most Atari-style paddle and flight yolk games, which is what a 5200 controller electronically is, a flight yolk that doesn't center. That's why I heard the 5200 version of Star Wars the Arcade Game is WAY better than the Colecovision in terms of arcade feel. You can tell i the trench scene. In the arcade, on harder levels you have to quickly, yet precisely yank the controller fast to dodge the catwalks and fireballs. The Colecoviosion version seems slower, intentionally so, to accommodate the digital controllers. Finally if you can precisely dial an XY location, you'd get to your targets faster in Missile Command with the stick than with the Trackball, but the trackball is easier to guide, stop on a dime, and time. Pick your poison. Personally I'm enough of a fan of Atari games, where having the right controller is worth it vs playing a crippled version of the classics. Wouldn't it be easy to have pre-built Atari controller molds, and use the lelctronics in the oycon as a wii mote to give the accruate playthrough. You save $20 vs the Ps4 and One and get more authentic controls for the $20 you save. By the way I tested a Stelladapter and it doesn't work on Xbox One. I've got working Atari controllers, why not use them? Plus the controller can be remade as universal 2600/modern controllers, and then use authorized stelladapters to interface with the consoles. it's sort of like Skylanders. The toys were designed so you don't have to make individual toys for each console, and Konami got all the money on the toys which unlock features in the game. Brilliant marketing move. Way to avoid the license. 2600 controllers can be the new, more practical Skylanders.

I know ideas are a dime a dozen. I’m not expecting a cookie, a percentage of all sales or anything like that. I’m contributing with a new point of view. Maybe I thought of something no one else has, and my perspective, combined with existing knowledge, can make a 3-independent-INTV controller work. I’m just asking if the the reason why the INTV only has 2 independent buttons and the third button is the 2 buttons combined is because the Sega Genesis controller back-maps to the Master System mode, and the reason why the SMS controller was used was because the the 2 buttons, 4 directions, ground, and voltage are all carried on one wire per signal. (At least that’s what read) And direct inputs means less decoding from an Encoded Genesis into discrete inputs. I’ve got 2 suggestions for that. both mentioned above. One is a fight stick adapter, and the other is using an Omega Race Booster Grip. It could be remade with 3 independent buttons, because frankly, if you don’t press both buttons at the same time, you may misfire and press one wrong button. Not exactly a good design for games that need 3 buttons. But then again how many games need 3 buttons, and is vital not to hit the wrong button, and doesn’t need 2 or 3 buttons pressed together? Second I didn’t see it was one run only and that was it. I was going to jump on one, but another Atari Age user promised 3 independent buttons at the same time for $20 each assembled. He wrote me a private letter, and I haven’t heard from him since. He’s got some family business, and he said he got 100 chips already made (50 Jag, 50 Gen), he just needs to retest and program them. ed told me privately, he had some personal things to deal with. I honestly didn’t see it was one run and done. I joined in at the end. Now I just got to hope the other guy delivers. In the meantime, maybe my suggestion would get renewed interest in iINTV adapters, and if a few of the users have twin button timing issues for the third button. If the guy who makes it needs a 4 way controller, has found a way to do diagonals where N+E<>NE but a separate code. I can se why you went with the 1+2=3 setup, becuase that’s how you do diagonals in the INTV, so one more circuit wouldn’t be much. But 3 independent buttons would be worth it. Is the technology to make a diagonal send out a separate independent signal the secret, or is it available to anyone? If it’s available to anyone, do you mind if Edladdin looks at it and uses it for a fight stick PCB for INTV. He doesn’t know how to do it off-hand. He was considering using an analog stick with 16 angle regions and 2 intensities, either 100% or 0%. If it’s not a big secret or if he’s wiling to give you a percentage of his sales for it, maybe he can look at the design, make his own with 3 independent buttons, and put it on his website to make a fight stick PCB for INTV.

1) I only know what I know. I will admit I don’t know what I don’t know. I do not know how to build an Atari or SMS to INTV Joystick converter. But I do know the SMS runs on discrete pin input, as looked up on other sites. I don’t know the nature of he technology enough where I can build a device, but I assume there is a technology which combines discrete inputs like N and E and combine them to a pin encoding for NE, which does not equal the sum of N + E. I assume that’s how the buttons A, B, and A+B equalling C is done. But can I assume it can be done equally as well with 3 separate discrete inputs for the 3 separate pins. If so then the Atari 2600 stick could work, the 2600 Booster grip could work (assuming I understand it enough, where the only difference between a digital and analog controller is a voltage difference indicating an intensity, hence you can use a dimmer switch on any electronic device, but it uses the same amount of power, but the light can be turned on to different degrees.) and definitely a Joystick with discrete directions and 3 discrete buttons can work just as well too. Just take out the 1+2=3 circuit. That would also have the benefit of making the 3 buttons independent, which is the way the INTV is designed. 2) the only reason why I’m suggesting it is because I can THINK of the new approaches, but I don’t know how to physically do it. I don’t understand enough about electronics, but I know if you had 3 independent discrete buttons, you don’t need a button combiner circuit. And I read about the Booster grip where you can have 3 independent buttons with the Booster Grip. I don’t expect a cookie. The only thing I "expect" is that if the solution is that simple, then I’ll stand in line to buy 2 for my INTV with the new feature implemented, just like everyone else. Plus I know a place where you can advertise it, Shoryuken.com. A lot of custom fight sticks are designed with a one-input-one-pin design, designed to easily attach to 1 or more different fight boards. It’s it’s already designed to be swappable, then an easy peasy Intellivision adapter would be nice for such a thing. Just add it to the many systems it can play. If Booster grip supplies are low, then Shoryuken people can actually play Intellivision decently with joysticks they already have.

I understand why a Master System joystick is WAY easier than a Genesis Joystick. A Master System has 4 pins for each of the 4 directions, one pin for each of 2 buttons, one ground and one voltage pin. It’s discrete. It’s easier than a Genesis where you have to decode a Genesiis to discrete controls and then re-convert it to INTV system. So in theory, could a discrete input controller be easier to wire to your adapter than a SMS controller with a 1+2=3 setup, but instead have 3 independent buttons? I was thinking of a "discrete input fight stick" input. I’m having one made for a lot of video games from Atari to Switch. The fight stick starts natively as a simple electronic signal, and a ground, and that can be send into an encoder. The 3 buttons are separate and native, so maybe, a DIscrete Fight stick adapter could be made with a similar technology as the Master System, since the SMS also a discrete input controller, except we have access to a third button natively instead of having to wire a 1+2=3. If you want to use an existing controller, if you need 3 action buttons, and an 8 way joystick, maybe you can use an Atari 2600 Omega Race Booster grip adapter system, where 4 directions are NSEW, there are 3 buttons, one main button and 2 extra buttons that occur when "scraping the paddle" a ground pin and a voltage pin.X Maybe this can be the basis for a 3-independent-button version of a 2600/SMS to INTV adapter. Is a scraping of a paddle as simple as sending a simple binary on or off signal through the paddle pins. If so then you can use a fight stick with discrete inputs wired to an Intellivision converter. You’d have 4 joystick directions, 3 independent buttons, a ground, and a signal. An improvement over the current system is that you have 3 independent buttons instead of a combo of 2 equalling a third. If you can hook an existing INTV controller for the keypad, and "y" in a 2600 booster grip/discrete fight stick, then you have all 3 buttons and 8 of the 16 ways covered. Also a single button 2600 controller can be used for single button INTV games like Burgertime. I’d sign up for 2 of those. If that’s an easy redesign, sign me up. Otherwise, I guess I’ll live with an SMS pad, I have 2 SMS fight sticks, a Beeshu SMS and a Sega SMS stick. So what do you say @grips03, is that an easy enough redesign where you can have 3 independent buttons and have less complicated wiring? If it isn’t I understand. But am I making sense? Now there’s a new use for an Atari Booster grip, and one that actually uses all 3 buttons.

Sorry to bump again, but when are these 50 Genesis->INTV adapters and 50 Jaguar->INTV adapter going to be released? Hey @7800fan, it’s been about 4 months since you private messaged me that you’re going to be delayed with your Genesis and Jaguar -> INTV adapters. Just waiting for you to provide a Paypal ID and link for paying for the 2 Genesis-> INTV (or 1 and 1 if Genesis is low) adapters. You said before the price for 2 assembled is $40. I’d like to send via Paypal.

It’s been quite a few months. It looks in terms of movies, there was an equal amount of loyalty and treachery on both the name brand and the store brand. 2 avoided store brand but 2 bought store brand when buying a name brand movie player. 1 bought name brand and one avoided name brand for movies. A net wash. Not surprising since Sears Beta was advertised as Beta, and JCPenney VHS was advertised as VHS. Plus Sears, Penney, and Ward all had CEDs, (but most people who don’t own CEDs but are aware of the difference between it and Laser Disc know it better by its RCA trade name Selectavision.), but no one made a store model Laser Disc Player. Games have different results. Both people who had Store-branded players avoided name brand media. So Sears thought that the Telegames name would keep them tethered to Sears (similarly with Radio Shack and Montgomery Ward), and the 2 that voted did. And no one voted to go to the world outside that store. Of course it had a negative effect, where 2 brand name purchasers avoided the store brand. So if you bought your 2600, INTV, or Astrocade, anywhere except Sears, Radio Shack, or Montgomery Ward, you avoided that store thinking it was a proprietary store brand. But one brand-name purchaser did buy a store brand. One purchaser either knew or suspected there was an intercompatibility, probably when 3rd party boxes mentioned both Atari 2600 and Sears Telegames. Which is one better than the other way. If this poll was indicative of the nation as a whole, Sears Telegames, Sears Super Telegames, Tandyvision, and Montgomery Ward video game systems were a net winner for those stores involved. If that were true, why don't we have any Gamestop Micromaxes or Wal Mart FunVisions today?

I’d still like to know whether all copies of the 3D Zero are incompatible with Pataank, or just mine. Also wondering if there are other 3DO games not compatible with the 3D Zero? Also wondering if everyone else has a compatibility issue with something for the 3DO that is supposedly universal?

Does anyone know where @7800fan is? He posted this in November, and then suddenly dropped off the face of the earth. Do you have any left, or must I go to the other Master System-to-INTV connector place?

Hey @7800fan are you currently available to assemble 2 Genesis->INTV adapters? You haven’t answered since November. The "other" INTV adapter has more items. I want to make sure you’ll make yours soon enough or whether I should go to the other Master System to 7800 adapter.

Hey @edladdin, I posted something on https://forums.shoryuken.com/t/wiring-an-edladdin-coleco-pbc-to-a-machine-that-accepts-a-cthulhu/586552 about using an Edladdin Coleco Joystick PCB with an existing fight stick and one major stumbling block, ie Dual Grounds. Since there are no fighting games, and this is an issue that needs help from both the fight stick makers at Shoryuken, as well as the Pre-NES enthusiasts or AtariAge, half of you might miss it. But it might interest you because it’s Coleco-specific. So comment either place. By the way, I’m a noob with enough new ideas, but is not sure of the practicality. i think the work some of the more prominent people do is worth paying decent money for. I ordered a Re-pro Jag Pro controller. I plan to order 2 Intellivision converters once @7800fan decides to show himself. He says he’s got everything, he just needs time to put it together, and had a personal situation which is delaying him, and it’s not a slow boat from China. Click the above link to see me try to work out questions of a universal stick that includes and Edladdin Coleco PCB, a Toodles MC Cthulhu, a Bohoki 5200 adapter, and a few pad-hacked PCBs.

Antarctic Adventure can be sped up by rolling the speed dial too. Of course the timer and music goes faster too. That would be an interesting speed run game. Would that be considered cheating?

So my instincts are right. Analog paddles are actuated in an all or nothing manner, so you’re just changing the dimmer dial to an on/off switch. I didn’t know if there was an easy "OR circuit", but it looks too complex where I can’t explain it to my joystick hacker. I’ll just either pad-hack a 7800 controller, or (probably cheaper) pad hack a Genesis controller I was getting pad hacked anyway, and just buy the Genesis->7800 adapter form Edladdin. The cost of a 7800 pad + labor to hook up the 7800 + Genesis > the cost of an Edladdin controller adapter plus a Genesis hack. The Pad-hacked Genesis pad can also be used in a Genesis->INTV adapter from @7800fan, if he actually responds in his Gen->INTV forum.

Brightness may be a factor, but the issue is nanosecond timing. Not only does typical LCD delay the signal by more than a milisecond, but an LCD has a backlight white light and some sort of darkening fiters takes the white light and drop it down to the color needed. CRTs on the other hand shoot a single beam of 3 component lights of varying intensities and aim them at the black screen.That’s why blacks look blacker and have an Infinite contrast ratio. But the CRT electron gun is actually pulled across a grid. It only draws one pixel at a time. it’s actually an analog stream in analog rows but digital columns. (analog meaning continuous, and digital meaning discrete) It draws like one reads a book start on the left, reads to the right in one continuous scan then do a carriage return. When you get to the bottom of the screen, start over with a new page (frame). The newer CRT gun technology has no idea where you're aiming. It just contains a less-than-a-microsecond accurate clock and light sensor. it senses when it senses a light, and sends a signal to the clock in the machine telling it "when" it sees a light, and then the Master System has the newer technology, which is why it leaves a bullet hole wherever you shoot. Literally every pixel was an interactive target. Nintendo NES went with a cheaper system, a simple black/white sensor, and a one frame per target flash. In those games you can trick a light gun by aiming at a lamp, but not Master System. I don’t know which one the 7800 used. So the simplest solution to making a modern light gun with the LCD problem is instead of making a single pixel sensor, let’s use a camera gun. Just take a picture of the screen capturing visible light. It can adjust for screen size, distance and angle from screen, where the infra-red Wiimote system does not. The infrared system only knows where 2 points are. They’re not even tied to the proportions of the TV. Even when set right, all you get is the table plane, and the screen plane. At a fixed width fo lights but no sense of verticality with the sensors, or the horizontal edge of the screen, you need a cursor in order to accurately play the game well, but when you play with the game, your arms feel more like a virtual joystick than a "true line of sight controller." The camera Gun would bring the sense of line-em-up back. Don’t believe me, play Ghost Squad in Cursorless mode on the Wii on both a 20 inch screen and a 50 inch screen. You’ll be thrown for a loop.

Speaking of booster grip, I was wondering if it’s easy to hook up for a discrete input fightstick. I would post the address, but it’s in moderator queue. I will post a link once it’s approved.

Hello, I was wondering. I can hire a joystick builder to wire a joystick. I’m just trying to find out what is the better route. My fight stick his separate wires for each Joystick Direction, button ground, voltage and a miscellaneous "other wire", like what the Xbox 360 needs. and then gets sent into a Brook fight board. (It actually has 11 buttons and 4 directions, it’s easier to go down than up.) Thanks to the fact that the brook stick is easily removable with a DB25, I was wondering if either the Atari 7800 or the 2600 Booster grip is as simple as wiring discrete buttons to pins, meaning a pin representing a direction, button, ground or voltage is straight wired from the DB25 discrete to a pin on the DB9. I know the basic 2600, Astrocade, Master System, and Neo Geo are simple one pin = one function hookups. I understand I could have a straight-wire hookup to do those systems. I understand systems as early Intellivision and Colecovision had "coded" joystick signals, so those are hard without PCB knowledge unless you hack an existing PCB. The 7800 and the 2600 booster grip are two weird beasts. Atari 7800 has buttons that split to 2 pins and one pin that is a combination of 2 buttons. Is that as easy as a simple wiring job with no coding and no PCB, or do you need some sort of "OR circuit" to make the 2600 button work. I don’t know if an Or circuit is as simple as wiring it, or if it needs intelligence. My joystick guy is charging $2 a 2-way pin hookup. With 4 directions, 2 buttons, a ground and a voltage, that should come to $16. That would be cheaper than a Edladdin Genesis->7800 adapter, and I don’t have to split up my shipment between myself for the 7800 and my joystick maker for the Colecovision. But I don’t know if uilding a discrete 7800 adpater would work. Also the 2600 booster grip has digital buttons actuating an analog paddle signal. Is that a simple wiring function too, or does THAT need some circuitry for it to work to convert a joystick signa to a paddle (assuming they are different I hear it’s an analog voltage between zero electricity and the maximum allowed electricity, [i won’t pretend to throw around words I don’t understand] so if it’s as simple as actuating a maximum, it’s just like taking the dimmer switch away from a circuit: it becomes a simple on/off circuit.) I also notice the pins are similar in a 2600 booster grip and a 7800. Can one device work for both? Or is it better to make 2 separate ones.

a), I prefer a removable augment as opposed to "cosmetic surgery" b)) I don’t know how to operate on either "cosmetic surgery" or "a bionic part." b) just wondering if it’s as simple as a pin swap adapter, or if you need something with CPU brains. If it’s something with PCU brains, it’s probably cheaper to buy a Tototek PS2->TG16 adpater and figure out the external discrete jumper cables. For 2 button games, It’s right where I want them, and as simple as swapping the 2 buttons. But I heard there are 3 button games, 4 button games and 6 buttons games. Since I don’t have those yet, I may get by, especially if I don’t buy a foreign adapter.

It’s been more than a month since @7800fan answered this forum with news about A Gen->INTV or a Jag->INTV adapter. He didn’t say how long he’d be, but based on the reason he told me, and I didn’t reveal his reason for the delay in answering, it sounded like a two-week to one-month layoff. Well, it’s 5 weeks now. I hope the issue with 7800fan clears up, but understand if it doesn’t. If I don’t hear by next Friday, I’ll send him a private message. He told me it was ready to go, but the issue has to clear up. And no, based on what he PMed me a month ago, it’s not a technical issue or a slow boat from China issue.