tripletopper

I have a day one version of Legend of Zelda 64. It has a certain chant that a certain group of people "persuaded" Nintendo to remove on later versions of the cartridge.

I was thinking more of along the lines of not doing "Surgery" on the original, and instead a pin-swap adapter on the Competition Pro, if it’s as easy as swapping the bottom button pin and the top button pin, with all other pins run straight through and those 2 pins get swapped in a M->F Swap adapter. I’d like to buy one. it’s easier to put on and take off a glove than to restore the original to the original condition. So I’d like one button swap adapter if that’s possible, and another 15-Pin PC -> 5200 Y adapter. I was originally going to buy 2 Bohoki 15-pin PC-> 5200 adapters, but you only had one. Have you made more yet? Since I was denied a second one, when you make some more, I’d like a button swap adapter with it too, paid for at a price you name, and I either accept or reject.

A couple of questions about the TG16. I have a Beeshu TG16 controller, and it works great right handed, except for one game I own, Side Arms. That’s because the right hand mapping is mapped index-to-index, which means the left fire and right fire are swapped. 1) Can someone build a button swapper for the TG16? Is it as easy a s a pin swap, or is there computer logic involved? If you can build and ship it to me for cheaper than a Tototek adapter shipped to me, in Ohio, let me know, and I’ll wait for you to research it and I’ll use your button swapper 2) About the RJ45 TG16 controller adapters, I heard they don’t work well. 3) I can rearrange discrete inputs into a RJ45 board, so if the button swapper is too expensive, maybe a RJ45 PS2 plug and a Tototek PS2->RTG16 adapter would work, just for Side Arms and Pac-Land. 4) Can anyone tell me a) what TG16/PCE games use a "more than 2 button" controller. I heard there was a 3-button (in a row), a 4 button (2x2), and a 6 button (3x2) , which is compatible with all of them. and b) what mapping the Tototek and RJ45 adapters have. For the purposes of this, I’m assuming a left handed stick and the street fighter mapping of: QP MP HP QK MK HK For the RJ45, I assume it’s for the appropriate Street Fighter functiots, since that’s made mainly for the Fighting Game Community. As for for the PS2->TG16 adapter, The Tototek has a very unusual instrucitons, with 5 buttons dedicated to different turbo/slow modes. QK aka X= II and MK aka O=I So it’s good for 2-button games. Of course the Tototek is infamous for fight arrangements not working right on standard fight sticks. To put a positive spin, it’s more "pad friendly", so probably it’s 3, 4, and 6, button arrangements are crazy. I assume the RJ45 is more fight stick friendly, but has yet to be perfected. P.S. Shouldn’t TurboGrafx not be all squished into one topic chain, but have a subcategory under Other Classic Gaming? Or maybe Turbo Grafx Forum High Score forum should be generalize to just TG16.

Here’s an interesting thing. It looks like S-Video and COmposite video are interconvertable. Radio Shack COmposite+S-Video switchboxes, both powered AND unpowered had a passive circuit whihcdraws its strength from signal power. You can plug in an S-Video in one input, a composite in another. Then output to S-Video ONLY. The S-Video will be in S-Video Quality, and the Composite will be converted to an S-Video signal. The conversion is as good as the composite, just watch out for bent pins that can make it balck and white. Also if your CRT accepts S-Video but your PVR/Game Streaming card accepts only Composite, then the device can reverse convert to Composite quality back into the Streamer. Heck, plug a VCR and get RF through that VHF/UHF NTSC tuner and output via Composite. Also to minimize ping, you should Y-split your signal before a TV processes it. But in order to do that, you ned to power boost the signal with a power boost of RCA and S-Vdieo inputs> When you split a signal, you drain power by splitting unless you add power. I can get it where I can stream in sync with my commentary, and get a zero-pin TV signal to my CRT TV. Finally one last question. I’ve had weird problems recording Video game footage on Beta at first, and VHS later. In Beta, the footage looks right at regular speed, but betascan it and it’s a black or blue screen, depending on what your TV does at blank. On VHS I don’t get ANY picture at normal playback speed, EXCEPT if I scan through it. Does it have anything to do with the slight differences between either VCR and game frames/second and/or 240p vs 480i resolution

I found a decent item for cheap at around 2004, a 3D Zero SNES controller adapter. At first it worked, for both a control pad as well as a fight stick. Then later I bought Pataank, and the 3D Zero didn’t work. It didn’t work with neither the SNES Pad nor fight stick. But the Goldstar 3DO controller and Panasonic fight stick work fine. Also I tested the daisy chaining abilities of the 3D Zero, it worked anywhere from Player 1/4 to Player 4/4. I know it can work with up to 8 people, but I don’t have 8 controllers. First of all, any 3D Zero owners notice an incompatibility with Pataank, or is it just mine? Second, can anyone name a 3DO game they have that doenst work with a 3D Zero? Finally, how do other SNES->3DO adapters work with their 3DO games, i especially what to hear about incompatible ones with 3D Zero, like Pataank?

hey @jce3000gt: How many games do you have for the 3DO and does the 3D Zero adapter work for all of them. I have about 6 games, and I found one that doesn’t work, Pataaank! 1) Do you have that game, and can test whether it’s something wrong with my disc, or my 3D Zero (so far PGA Golf works with it, even anywhere in the daisy chain. from 1st out of 4 to 4th out of 4.) or whether yours has problems with it too and if that’s just a strange incompatibility. By the way I tried both my SNES fight stick and a standard SNES pad, neither work with that game. 2) How many of your games work with the 3D Zero? I like the fact that it reads it just like a 3DO controller, and can be set in 2 arrangements, the pad arrangement works on my SNES fight stick too because is arranged in that way as the default Street Fighter arrangement: SNES: L X R Y B A equals 3DO: L ? R A B C On the same setting, the mapping on a pad is like a modern system playing a Genesis game;: * ? * A * C * B * I think ?=P because, if I remember right, it pauses the game. which makes it Street Fighter compatible By the way, there is a second setting. I forget the mapping of that. Finally, even though the point is moot, because I’m planning to have a discrete input telephone operator switcboard, if I didn’t have this device, if you want it to work with as many games as possible, is it smarter to work with Middle Punch equalling Play or Stop. I think most fighters use Stop, and Street Fighter uses Play. The official fight stick from Panasonic has it as P. I know, I have it. I thought I saw somewhere on the web, that most fighters that need 4+ buttons have button swapping features in software. So you might not screwed with a MP=Play arrangement wiht other games, but definitely are if you have Street Fighter and have MP=X. (SNK conversions only need 4 buttons so I don’t know if it applies to Samurai Shodown. By the way, since I’m getting nowhere on SNES-> adapter incompatibilities, I'm thinking of starting a new topic.

Thanks Bohoki, I bought your 15 Pin PC-> 5200 adapter, and I bought a PC "digital controller". So I can easily wire Bottom, Top, N, S, E, and W and use the controller’s built in digital actuation of analog controls. I have 3 Atari 520 controllers. I was going to gold-mod 2 of the, and turn the third into a discrete input RCA to be wired to all 15 keys. My question is, I assume I have a 5200 dismantled and have RCA females attached. Would the 5200 controller flex circuit have to be gold modded, or is it easy to solder an RCA femaie directly, and the gold is only for finger pressure contact, and would be a waste of money to get the THIRD controller Gold Modded? Also, it looks like the only 3 games that need a specific key without it being easier just to use a keypad< Defender (any key for hyperspace) Countermeasure (0 of stop/auto tank, and 123 for LEO) and Real Sports Tennis (0 for lob) All the other games that use a keypad use too many keys. And if Miner 2049er and Bounty Bob Strikes Back are anything like the Colecovision Miner, and the Atari 800 BBSB, one or 2 levels use a keypad for transporter/elevator. What keys are needed fo those? Any other 5200 games that have no overlays but have a "self-evident" keypad function like Miner 2049er for CV? i need to know so I can decide whether it’s just cheaper and easier electronically to just put a joystick mount next to the buttons, and just press a gold modded keypad, or whether I need the hyperspace button right next to smart bomb.

I have a Competition Pro Joystick for the 5200. And I notice the "main" bottom button is on the left side, and the secondary, to button is on the right. I have a couple of friends who might prefer to pay left handed. Also I don’t know if 15-Pin PC connectors have the trigger or thumb as the main button. I assume both of those cases are taken care of with the same type of button flipper. Some systems may have single pin button mapping, some may not. Is the 5200 one of those systems that can work with a button flipping adapter? If so, may I purchase one from someone?

Similar to a Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Driection Scrubber, which is an external circuit which prevents opposite cardinals from actuating when 4 buttons are used as directions and east and west can be activated simultaneously, without which one would be considered cheating in fight games that don't account for this, I’m thinking a Competition Pro, and possibly a hand pad hack of a Digital 15-pin PC controller and Bohoki adapter, might give someone an advantage if they want to go faster in a diagonal in a game like Dreadnaught Factor. Also certain "4 way games" like Qix, Popeye, Mountain King, and Vanguard have a natural 4-way mode by requiring 80% of a cardinal be the minimum actuation point. But with the Competition Pro, the natural 4-way guardrail in place is defeated, causing runtime errors in those games. The reason why this is is because the Competition Pro (and maybe) the pad hacked digital) sets a cardinal at 100% and when actuating a diagonal, both the vertical and horizontal cardinal are both at 100%. But the Atari 520 default analog controller can in theory electronically be a square-limited controller, but is PHYSICALLY limited to a limit of 100% by a circle, which is all points equidistant to the center position. If one were to make a perfect 45 degree angle on a regular controller, you’d have a radius of 1 and a direction of 45 degrees. But if you activate N+E digitally, you have the same 45 degrees, but 100% E + 100% N = 141% at 45 degrees. Also the circle limiter makes it so when one direction is at 80% of a cardinal or more, it is guaranteed to be 60% or less in the other cardinal. A NE move would read as neutral on a circle restricted controller, because 100% at 45 degrees equals 70.7% N + 70.7% E at it takes 80% to actuate either cardinal, but since both are 70.7%, it reads as neutral. The 5200 was not designed to have 141% diagonals, because of the physical circle limiter. I don’t know if there’s an easy way a circuit can sense a diagonal, and then apply a fixed dimmer switch when diagonal. I just don’t want to be accused of cheating if I get a 5200 world record on a Competition Pro or a Pad-hacked 15-pin PC pad actuating a fight stick. But then, again there’s more money in fight tournaments that there is in 5200 records pursuits. So no one really thought about it.

Jasencustoms.com is developing with Brookaccessory.com a remake of a Fight stick board similar to a PS360+ for Akishop-customs.com and the Toodles MC Cthulhu. They let you play with arcade style sticks on PS3 to systems down to the NES using an Ethernet cable. There one gapping hole i the colection, The Sega Genesis. The reason is because the Ethernet port has only 8 unique pins, and the Genesis has 9. The 3DO might be made already, but there was no daisy chaining multiplayer. It probably has something to do with the ninth pin. If the only thing from preventing a Genesis and 3DO fight stick is a a ninth pin, maybe there should be a Paleo board with 15 (possibly more) pins. We just got to find an arbitrary a standard with 15 pins to handle the Jaguar and 5200, and more if necessary, and use the first 8 to go to an ethernet female adapter so those previously made RJ45 connectors work retroactively without having to repurchase them for the new Paleo standard. I’m writing this to see if anyone in the AtariAge community is interested in hooking up a fight stick to a Jaguar, cd-I, Neo Geo, 7800, SMS, or a pre-NES system if you’re going to sell Jasencustoms on making a paleo board, you got to increase the customer base so If you want to use a handmade individual fight stick for everything from a PS3 to a 2600, show them you’l buy the Brook Paleo Board, and the appropriate cables. This is mainly for people whose console collection goes from the 2600 to the Switch. How many of you are in? By the way, this is in the "idea phase" I can’t promise it will come out, but it would be more likely if people are willing to pay $50 for a PCB, and $10-15 for each adapter for each system. The nine-pins might be a combo adapter to handle all 9-pin standards. I count TEN different 9-pin standards for joystick controllers as far as I know (with the exceptions that prevent the higher compatible standard from being universal in parentheses) : 3DO, Genesis 6 button, Genesis 3 button (for Ms Pac Man and Forgotten Worlds), Master System (for Montezuma’s Revenge), 7800, Colecovision Super Action, Colecovision Standard (for Activision Decathlon and Q*Bert’s Qubes), Intellivision, Bally Astrocade (for non-paddle games), and 2600 Booster Grip. The basic 2600 works with both Genesis, 7800, both Colecovision, and (I don’t know if the extra buttons cause errors) 2600 booster grip. Let’s see if there’s interest. We can bleed into the Shoryuken.com community and show them this idea works for more than just fighting games. And arcade style stick makes you feel like you’re at the arcade, and is a legal performance enhancer.

The Sega handle feels a little blocky. But the main problem is the middle-finger pumping for shooters and other similar games that require rapid pressing of the 1 button and needs the 2 button. The Beeshu has a better handle, a nice arcade-style clicky joystick, like all the Beeshu sticks AND for most game is correct by reversing 1 and 2 and having the rapid fire press be on the Index finger, not middle. That’s true of the NES version, the TG-16 Version, and the SMS version. So I can use a pin swap adapter and have both my Sega Stick be proper 1 on index, as well as use my Beeshu in games where left=left action, like Tutankham, Side Arms and Pac Land. Are there any games like that on the NES or SMS? The SMS is each, just use the Sega brand arcade stick. But the one system where that helps the most, the TG16, which has 2 games I know of with that flaw, is not as simple as pin swap. Is the NES as easy as a pin swap? And NES games that need it? I have a Competition Pro stick for the 5200, and lefties would like the "main" bottom button on the right. is there a pin swap adapter for that? Does the 5200 have distinct pins for top and bottom fire? Except for the 5200 and the TG16, this discussion is mainly hypothetical. The TG16 is not as easy as a pin swap. I would like a pin swap dongle for the 5200 to service my leftie friends. I might consider an SMS version if I find a game with left-to-left righty mapping. If you know of such a game, let me know.

Isn’t the whole point of Stelladapter controls is to accept existing controls that are not easily replicable with modern control schemes, like trackballs, rollers, spinners, keypads, and paddles. Most fo the Atari games used bizarre controllers by today’s standards. A joystick and one button is replicable with a standard pad, and Street Fighter players use digital sticks, but doesn’t the d-pad serve the same function. The analog pad is not the same. Don’t some of the games, like Missile Command and Super Breakout RELY on the factt he joystick doesn’t center. Trust me, playing Warlords and Breakout with a modern thumbstick in "absolute mode" is TIRING and frustratingly inaccurate. And the switch can have a Labo trackball, roller, and spinner combo pack, and the wheel acts likes a true paddle.

I saw Atgames make a "pair of paddles" Atari 2600 controller to the "plug and play" lineup. They already have the proper molds and electronics to make them. Why not make a PS4/X1/NS controller from the same mold. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Atari-Flashback-Blast-Vol-3-Pong-Retro-Gaming-Pink-857847003868/977751017 There’s even more option for the Switch. 1) Switch wheels already exists. They could be used instead of paddles for limited radius games like Pong, Warlords, etc. 2) Trackballs, Rollers, and Spinners can be used with a Joycon. Put a Joycon in a hamster ball for trackballs, and a cylinder for Major Havok, and a dial for Tempest add buttons, make it ambidextrous by making it flippable 180 degrees. Tempest 4K could use a Joycon Spinner. 3) I believe Sentinel was originally a Light Gun game, plus they could use 7800 light gun games, and other companies might want to make light gun games, and ever since they purged CRT TVs, there has no been an accurate light-gun substitute. The best one was the Wii Mote. But that was awful, (but other modern solutions are worse) because it a) had to be set up perfectly, and b) dididn’t know certain factors which would have made it more accurate. A simple, no-fuss-no-muss way to do it is to just take a picture of visible light. A "camera gun". None of this infrared stuff. The machine knows what’s on the screen. If it communicates with the gun, then it can use the picture to tell where the bullet goes. The calbiration can be used to adjust for light in the room. And the only way you can accurately compensate for the screen is to take a picture of the screen. It would understand position, scale, and rotation. 4) The paddles and the 5200 controller works because it’s non-self-centering. The only games where self centering works is "digital" arcade game conversions. Star Raiders, Missile Command, Kaboom, and Star Wars all worked better with a non-self-centering stick compared to a centering one. Warlords is tiring with the self-centering, except for the 2nd 360 version, because it wasn’t trying to be the original, but instead an update.

I just tried Tempest 4000 for the Xbox One, and I think the controls are awful, but only on "round" levels. Sometimes I press left to go right when stopped. Also I thought a more appropriate control is to use the analog stick as a radial control. Just roll the left stick to indicate the position along the orbit where you are, not left to go anticlockwise, right to go clockwise. You got analog controls. Why not use them? For the modern systems, why isn’t there a 2600-> PS4 and a 2600->X1. They obviously make them for PC. You need them for Paddles, Trackballs, Spinners, Indy 500 controller, and Keypad (maybe, but a USB numeric would work too). Since Nintendo makes Labo kits, why not Atari make a plastic Labo-like Joycon attachment. First Paddle games already work with Switch Wheel. If you keep both hands on the wheel, there is a natural limit to how far clockwise and anticlockwise you can rotate it. Second for Trackball games, a Joycon could be placed in a hamster ball for trackball games, and have radio controller manaul button pressers for the up to 6 buttons on the Single Joycon. Third, a similar setup, except with a cylinder for Major Havok. Fourth, a joycon could be put in a similar device with a wheel that you spin. Finally, for the light gun games, a visible light "camera gun" could be used to literally shoot the targets, instead of using a cursor that centers automatically. Do other people agree with me, that Atari controls on modern systems are not well thought out with the default controllers? The analog stick does like to center, and I think that hurts most Atari analog games, especially paddle games.

I noticed one thing unusual about right handed joysticks. The Sega-made Sega Master System joystick, which has a right handed joystick, maps left-to-left, which means if you’re rapid firing the 1 button, you’re rapid firing with your middle finger if you want access to both buttons simultaneously, and boy, that is tiring. Thankfully, the Beeshu joystick for the Master System and Turbo Grafx 16 have a right-handed stick mode, AND the buttons are mapped with the main button on the index finger. (the one you press fastest) which for most games work perfectly. But I own one game for the TG-16, and know of another I might like which might a problem with, has the buttons reversed. Namely Side Arms, and possibly Pac-Land have te same problem. With a normal joypad and a Turbo Stick, and the Beeeshu Ultimate Stick when left handed, have Left shoot in Side Arms and (assuming the controls are the way I think) Left Run on the Left, and the respective rights on the right. I also own a Colecovision Tutankham and Front Line, which have a similar problem. But because the right handed mapping is Index-to-index, It’s reversed. I don’t know if the controllers are as easy as a pin swap or not. I know some machines are, some machines aren't. I also assume it’s cheaper to buy a physical pin swapper for a system that works for instead of an electronic converter, especially if one doesn’t currently exist. If a PIn-swap adapter can be made for the TurboGrafx 16 that a) is cheaper than the Tototek PS2-> TG16 adapter, and b) has less delay because there’s no processing, I’d like to purchase one, and use it with my Beeshu. But if not, I’ll use a PS2 -> TG16 adapter from Tototek and flip the buttons on my discrete input telephone operator switchboard device. By the way, I only see 2-button mapping for the TG16 on the Tototek website, I heard Street Fighter has a 6 button mode, and Forgotten Worlds has a 3 button mode. Any other "more than 2 button" games I should be aware of? And does anyone own a Tototek PS2-> TG16 or PC Engine adapter, AND a 3 button and/or a 6 button game? Also wondering if any games for a pre-Genesis system have a similar problem with righthanding the game. Especially ones where there is no software-based button swap option.

I uae a right handed Beshu Ultimate Superstick, and for most games, probably the default index-to-index mapping for the right hand side is best. I played with the Sega Master System Joystick with the main fire button on the middle finger, and it is tiring. However I know of 3 games, 1 I know by experience and one I’m guessing on the TG 16, and one I know of on the Colecovision, ad predict there should be one gmae in the NES llibrary, tat need a button swap on the left hand side. The 3 games are Side Arms (I own) Pac-Land (i predict based on the arcade) and Tutankham The first and last have a Left fire and right fire, and Pac Land has left run and right run. Those buttons are swapped when right handed and using the usually-good index-to-index mapping, when left-to-left mapping is better for those 3 games Is flipping the buttons on an Ultimate Superstick as easy as making a pin-swap adapter, or does it require a code chip attached? I don’t want it a permanent swap, most games are good as-is.

I couldn’t find a TG16 forum that wasn’t specific to the score club on AtariAge. I will post another topic discussing my main reason. The question is, where do i post it? Here? in general retro/non-Atari? It can be closed as soon as i get an answer. No further discussion needed on this topic.

My fight stick is considered naked discrete inputs. It used fight stick building techniques used by many professionals on shoryuken.com, but I’m not sure isf THEY can answer it due to their lack of familiarity of any system before the Genesis except for the NES. I’ve got 11 buttons and a switchable 4-Way/8-Way digital stick as my inputs. There are only 2 Main buttons. I’m planing on wiring it to a 15-PIN Digital PC pad, whihc should have the right circuitry to convert digital movenment into PC 15-pin analog movement, but only at center, the 4 cardinals directly, and the 4 diagonals through the combinations of perpendicular cardinals. I also bought a Bohoki PC15-pin to 5200 adapter. I know this device has 2 inputs, one a PC input, for the directions and 2 main buttons, and a 5200 input for the 15 keypad buttons. I was wondering if I can wire a discrete button input, and have that plug into an RCA with the keyboard matrix, so that I can let my "ring finger" button equal hyperspace on Defender, and place Start, Pause and Reset on some of the other buttons. I don’t know how the Joystick input ground will work with the keypad. I understand it might not be a one-to-one wiring, becuase there is not one pin for each key, but is instead matricized, meaning to sends a row and column signal to the pins. If a 5200 controller was modified so that he Keypads have individual RCA inputs, and the RCAs are "direct wired" into an individual keypad press, (Flexibility is the key becuase I don’t know), would I be able to wire a button selector wire (kind of like a telephone operator switchboard coming in between the joystick and the PCB) from the switchboard to the appropriate RCA hole on the modded keypad? And I know some guy might make a retro-brew of a 5200 game using heavy keypad, I should reserve the possibility for everything. except know I’ll have only 6 of the 12 bases covered. And If I do ned more than 6 bases covered, I can always plug in a Best-electronics-ca.com gold mod with all 15 keys gold modded. Speaking of which, would gold modding the controller that would be taken apart for the RCA females be a) money well spent or b) a waste of money, especially if you’re directly RCA Female wiring to the flex circuit.

The main point of my question is, the 5200 has a natural lowering of the index finger in the Z axis, hence stacked buttons on the 5200. However, I don’t know if INTV made the right decision making the thumb align with the middle finger along the Y axis. I thought the more natural line-up of the claw grip would be the thumb aligned with the index finger. Hence the poll. The Emerson has mirrored single buttons on the each side like an INTV. They gave you the choice to thumb or finger the button in either hand. Colecovision has just 2 asymmetric buttons, but most of the time with a right stick, I was "thumbing" the main button, like an Atari 2600. I think Threshold, Omega Race, and Space Fury had the pump-action thumb for multi shots, and the finger for the alternate function. (Tiring when right-sticking it.) All other pump-firing games THAT I HAD, (Gorf, Zaxxon, Carnival, Venture ) had symmetric fires on the Coleco. Thankfully the Super Action Controller puts the fire button on your index finger IN EITHER HAND. The Pinnacle of ambidextrous joystick design... ...at least until Beeshu joysticks. But the Beeshu TG16 stick had problems with Side Arms with reverse firing and Pac Land for reverse running. Ttankham would have similar problems assuming index-to-index mapping.

Zylon, do you use your middle finger on both the bottom and top button? The thumb is being used on Start/Reset/Pause?! Well, I use the finger typing method for and NES control Pad. So I shouldn’t complain about unusual joystick techniques.

This must be made by someone who never played Pre-Crash video games, because it’s obviously left haded and 90% of the pre-crash population preferred right handed sticks, and the left handed stick standard was a bright idea to increase money from one arcade owner by shortening games, and news spread until it became the default all around the world. Now that the world is WAY more home based and not arcade based, there’s no more conflict of interest of arcade owner, who wants to shorten games, and players, who want to perform well. Now that there are very few to no arcade owners who are the direct customers, the balance of power has now shift to players being direct customers, instead of indirect ones, and you'd think the right handed joystick would come back in vogue, or even ambidexterity, if not industry wide, then at least one maker. On the pre-crash home market, there were ambi 2600 sticks, Lefty adapters, and new systems were designed with ambidexterity in mind. Then when Nintendo domiated the home market, they thought their left handed sticks were preferred. They never questioned it. There was a company who was advertising better scores with their right handed and ambidextrous joysticks, Beeshu. They applied for a Nintendo license, but didn’t get it because Nintendo thought they were a cheap rip off of the NES Advantage and wanted all accessory sales for itself unless it was something unique Nintendo wasn't interested in like the Arkanoid Vaus Paddle. They didn’t budge until the Genesis and Turbo Grafx came out, both of whom licensed Beeshu’s ambi sticks for THEIR systems. Even with 2 buttons there were problems with button mapping that had to be adjusted with controller options. Try playing Side Arms, Pac Land, or Tutankham with a "mainly right handed buttons" with mirrored lefts. More buttons exasperated the problems more. Every game had to be totally customizable with buttons, either in the Joystick OS which wasn’t invented until the Dreamcast Alloy Stick, and even then it wasn’t tourney legal because it wasn’t cheat-proof, or the game system OS, which wasn’t compensated for until Xbox One, or all individual games, which most game makers didn’t consider, and sometimes even throw a monkey wrench in because of their Arcade first mentality. With Gamers being the more direct customers of game comapnies than they were in the arcade games, shouldn’t it shift to bemore consumer friendly? Not having all joysticks be left handed? Beeshu was the last mass market company to offer ambidextrous sticks, and that was in response to the overcontrolling licensing of Nintendo, which got killed by the Genesis and a US court ruling. And those Beeshu sticks were better controllers than the NES Advantage, even if you play left handed, with a real clicky arcade joystick, not a mushy rocker stick. And right-handedness made them stand out even more.

Okay thank you for telling me that. I wasn't sure if the nature of using a PS2 controler to 15 Pin required analog becuase 15-pin is natively analog or not. I never got a good answer to that question. But with the labor of the digital-to-analog technology already built into the joypad, all it needs is $16 worth of labor. $2 apiece for wiring N, S, E, W, Top, Bottom, Pause, and Ground. Also the buttons don’t map right I need X as bottom and O as top. With hand wiring, I can have it that way. 1) How much does a PS2-> 15-pin adapter cost? Can it beat $16 worth of labor? 2) How well does the D-pad behave on games where analogness is not a factor and would be better as a digital 5200 game? 3) I assume it has the 141% error of diagonals, which for most digital games isn’t a factor, but for a few 4-way games would be a factor, like Vanguard, Qix, Popeye, Mountain King, Frogger, and Frogger II Threedeep, and that should be easily correctable with a 4-Way/8-Way physical restrictor.

Actually, I got a guy who can do direct wiring to DE37 connectors, and I bought a Digital 15-pin joypad, I would just connect the raw DE37 joystick adapter pad hacked into the PC digital pad and then output to 15-pin, and then connect that into a Bohoki adapter. In general, the less conversions in the chain, the more likely the conversions work, so converting form PS2 (which may not fit my needs, bnecase I need the D-Pad for my fight stick, not the left stick, and the PS2 pad converters are tested with the left sticks, not d-pads.).to 15-pin, to 5200, would be one too many steps. It may work, but no one tested the PS2 adapter with a Standard d-pad or a digital fight stick. I know the joypad will convert the digitial actuators to an analog signal automatically without having to hire some to do analog digitizations, because this joystick has the right innards already in there, becuase I know Pc 15-pin is natively 2 axis analog.

I know between the INTV, the 5200, the Colecovision, the 7800, and the Arcadia 2001, many controls used the "claw grip", and Most required you to use your index finger and thumb. If the INTV used a 3-button setup, you need a thumb, a middle finger, and an index finger. Sometimes the Intellivision has a "symmetric 2-button" setup, it makes it the same as the 5200. In which it depends on how you hold it. Assuming rapid firing is easier with a index finger compared to a thumb, then If the index finger is above the thumb, meaning you bend the thumb towards the palm, then the top button is your main button. That's the INTV setup. If the index finger is below the thumb, meaning you stretch your thumb away from your palm, then the bottom button is the main button. That's the 5200 setup. The main question is in claw formation, assuming 2 symmetric buttons, where does it ergonomically make more sense to put your main button: upper like INTV, or lower like 5200?