tripletopper

Not to be nitpicky but I would buy yours right away if you are offering them for sale if you had an ambidextrous version of them. Anyone who's been around in the arcades before 1985 known that at least 50% of the arcade games were designed to be operable with either hand on the joystick and the other on the button. Also The Colecovision was an example of one of the five out of eight video game systems that had OEM ambidextrous joysticks. Granted, most of the other design features shouldn't have survived beyond the second generation but ambidexterity apparently was extinguished well before it's time. Why would you think most people would rather have a lefty ColecoVision joystick if they we're around during the Colecovision days? Observing a 7800 promotional video I saw like five or six people play with the American 7800 stick right handed before I saw one person play left handed. If you look at my website sinistersticks.com you'll see an example of a modern fight stick that's 180able and can be played left-handed or right-handed. Take my design please I'd even actually buy one of you if you made an ambidextrous model. You save on buttons versus going to Beeshu way. Oh one last question. Where is the "roller" for baseball (base running) and football (passing/kicking)? Is there a way you could add that on there.

I tried to start by making my RF equipment as simple as possible. No splits no switches one RG6 cable connected to various systems using various direct connectors, and every system I test works well except the ColecoVision. The funny thing is that the ColecoVision did work well with an MTV box RF to VGA adapter but the problem was it had a frame of ping. Due to that fact I know there's nothing wrong with my ColecoVision just or at least something that might be specific to RF issues. I'm getting small amounts of rainbow snow and little crackle. All my other RF consoles were perfectly fine with the RF connectors provided. What could be the reason for the crackle in the rainbow snow on The clique of vision exclusively? Is there anything I could do to help it get work better. I remember a couple of times it was tightening the screws that connected two plates together or something that fixed it and another time just isopropylholling the insides of the Colecovision did it. Any suggested operations I could do that don't involve soldering? Is there a place where I could buy guaranteed working RF cables and connectors that work with this finicky click collision because it did work in a snowless manner with an MTVBox, an RF to VGA converter that had one frame of ping.

I just realized something about my issue. I noticed that going from the ColecoVision to the VCR to the capture card there's no complete composite video path from the VCR to the RetroTink converter. Instead there's an S-Video connection that is powering the RetroTink. The only way the VCR makes connection with the Retro tank is through an a Radio Shack multi input switcher. I've had previous Radio shack composite and S-Video splitters take at composites and convert it to S Video. My guess is either there's something about the VCR that the Radio shack converter doesn't like or there's something about the ColecoVision the Radio shack converter doesn't like. Because the 7800 going through there is immaculate. By the way my VCR doing the conversion is a Panasonic from the late 90s. Maybe there's something it doesn't like about RF Video.

Well I did find some valuable information by plugging the Atari 7800 in the exact same set of connectors and the 7800 looks perfect through these connectors. What I did was I took a RG6 coax double male and connected it to a female coax to male RCA connector and plugged that in a RCA Y adapter with two females and one male so that I can access both games with male and female RCA plugs. Going the other way,/I fed that into an old fashioned splitter made by realistic that has one input and 2 outputs and have one inputs go into the CRT directly and the other into the VCR and they all work fine. The exact same wiring with the ColecoVision give me rainbow snow so probably it's an issue with the colecovision itself and not with the connectors. But the 7800 gives a perfect picture with this setup

All right. When I get some money next month, I'll buy some DB9 F-DB9 M adapters, pull out the pins on the adapter, and report the results. Why damage the original adapter when you don't have to?

Where could someone go to buy pre crash RF cables that work well with all the pre crash video game systems? I noticed I get rainbow snow in the ColecoVision and was wondering if a higher quality RF cable would help clear the rainbow snow. The collection has an RCA female but not all RCA double male cables work well. Is there some sort of sign or indicator that's an RCA cable will work on a pre crash system very well? Is there a way certain way you have to hook it up or something for it to work well? By the way I'm splitting it between a CRT TV RF Jack and a VHS RF check so the CRT can play the 7800 light gun games while the VCR sends it to a RetroTink in composite to go into my capture card. This is the equipment I need for my setup to work and maybe you can help tell me where to get it. 1. 2 rf RG6 cables to extend from a CRT and VCR. 2. Some sort of signal splitter, that can simultaneously pump the RF signal into the back of the CRT and VCR. 3. Long enough cable and the right ways to connect it to get it working with both systems with RCA female holes (7800, Colecovision) and RC male cables (O2, Bally) maybe a two female one male Y connector. If you're going to do it, do it once, do it big time and do it right the first time. Where can one find RF cables about the RG6 and the RCA variety that work with pre crash systems that most of these modern RC cables seem to not do unless they were back in the day made for pre crash systems?

I did write to SadGirlsRecords. They haven't wrote me back yet. So what you're saying is the unnecessary plugs are what's causing issues with the sad girl adapter when hooking up 7800, Coleco and Genesis Controllers. I know how to pull out plugs on an adapter I did that with the VGA M/F adapters in early attempts to sync up a left eye and right eye in VGA Virtual Boy. Maybe the sad girl adapter was an attempt to try to add paddles that failed, and when it worked with the joystick, they said just advertise it for the 2600 joystick and be dobe with it. Then never bothered "cleaning it up". They say it only works for Joysticks, so why not? I guess I could buy DB9 F to DB9 M adapters to temporarily test it. And yank the pins off the adapter.

First I'd like to say that all that Sad lGirlsRecords advertised was that a 2600 joystick controller would work with the Bally Sstrocade using their connection. (They also have a similar one made for the Odyssey 2.) And plugging in a real 2600 controller into that did work. However play plugging a Sega Genesis controller doesn't work there. Plugging in Atari 7800 controller doesn't work in there. Plugging in a Colecovision standard controller doesn't work in there. I assume if the Colecovision standard doesn't work then the super action controller also shouldn't work. I also tried the Genesis through an Edladdin Seagull 78 and that didn't work Does anyone know how the Sad Girls Records adapter work and why it doesn't work with the more advanced forms of 2600 joysticks? Is there anything special about the Atari 2600 controller that will work with a sad girl records Bally Astrocade adapter, but a 7800 (as well as Genesis and ColecoVision) won't?

Well I wrote back to say that well the Masters system is opposely polar to my TN monitor so if anyone wants to make a modern Sega Master System glasses system they can plug their glasses in the Sega Master System machine get a low ping monitor and if the polarization is tilted 90° make it work with a modern low paying TN monitor. Now they think about it, other than for the knowledge which I gained last month, since I already have a CRT and play all my games on CRT anyway now, why should I get a sideways polarized glasses just for a TN monitor I don't play with when I use the Sega Master System? I just thought people who exclusively play on modern monitors might be interested in the fact that if you rotate the glasses 90°, then I'll penetrate the polar shield on my particular TN low ping monitor which is a Lenovo G25-10. Maybe someone could tell me if it works on another monitor. Hopefully it'll work on quite a few monitors. If so then I independently discovered the secret to Sega Master System working on modern TVs.

Well I found a video on YouTube that shows that the Odyssey to joysticks are not as hard wired as you think they are. They're attached by some other standard I have no idea what standard of connector that is. Since I don't know what I'm doing when I'm poking around there I'm going to post a video of someone who's successfully externalized their Odyssey controllers on an internal controller model. I assume there are enough pins where you could map the four directions the fire and the ground to six of the wires and then the other three ports are pretty much nothing and I assume that they could be wired to either Odyssey 2 or 2600 or astrocade standard. And I assume that if I get it "softwired" with Odyssey 2 db9 standard that I could use Sad Girl Records's 2600 to Odyssey adapter perfectly fine on that. And I could buy a premade DB9 cable which is straight wired, like on Edladdin.com , and hire someone to solder up the other end connector to connect to the Odyssey 2. I just need to know the name of the cable standard associated with the hardwired Odyssey standard and what the Odyssey DB9 mapping to that would be, so I could reuse the Odyssey controls if I which or switch to Atari if I wish. Link: https://youtu.be/rT3eM9D26CM?si=d5Q2OXutOdjKA6Oq

The tldr paragraph above is I got a Sega scope working through a Master System and onto a TN one millisecond Lenovo monitor. The secret is rotating the filters 90° (either way) to penetrate whatever polarization is in the Sega Scope glasses. I was wondering if someone could dissect an extra pair of Sega scope glasses so that the rotational orientation is exactly 90⁰ off parallel. I want some to "cleanly break" the glasses into 2 halves yet have the alternating polar filter work. I don't know how to separate the eyes, rotate each eyeball 90⁰, yet keep the flasher working. Any help for hire who wants some credit and money for the labor?

I did some experiments that were very non-invasive and found that the Sega Master System polar filters are perpendicular to the typical polar filters found on a TN 1 millisecond monitor from Lenovo. I would like to place my pre-existing camera, a stereoscopic Minoru camera which has to be 15 frames per second because when it's 30 frames per second it always misses the exposure of the appropriate eye (I think, but I may want to double check it.), and place the Sega scope in front of it however the Sega scope is 90° out of phase of what my monitor will accept because when the glasses are placed the normal way like normal eyewear, the polar filter of the TV combined with the polar filter of the glasses are perpendicular therefore canceling each other out therefore giving you zero picture on the screen, but you're able to capture the outside world relative to the screen. I need each ocular on the glasses rotated 90°, but yet working as a pair so that the Left Right balance persists. Don't be afraid to break the glasses further. I'm starting with armless glasses mainly because they're cheaper to find and easier to apply velcro straps on which hold the camera filter (Sega Scope) in place. I just need the glasses to go 90° their normal polarity in front of both eyes. I understand you might have to mangle already mangled glasses to come up with a working solution. That's ok. If this works then we got one last thing to test which is ping time, if I can hook this up with any monitor despite the ping time then we have a universal 3D add-on kit which could finally be sold to video dealers to promote 3D video without having to buy a whole new TV just for 3D video. Two things killed 3D in 2011. One was the requirement to buy a whole new TV just a couple years after the digital changeover. The other was the 3D Super Bowl that was promised but retracted because if the Super Bowl would have been in 3D it would have been 2D incompatible at the time and literally lock fans out of the number one TV show consistently every year. Just wondering if any hackers can hack a 90° filter to place in front of a pair of cameras. And yes this would most likely be a physical hack. Or I predict most easily done with a physical hack. I will be willing to pay for the service and properly acknowledge you for doing the hired work I buy. My next refill of money comes January 1st 2024 so you got a couple weeks to think about it and discuss this. By the way if you want to see the progress of me figuring out how the Master System glasses work with modern TVs, as of 5:30 on December 9th 2023 there is one topic which explores how I found this out in a step-by-step process. No one responded to it. Mainly I left it there as my own notes to show what I've done before and what I could do next and if this were to succeed get into the mind as I was thinking it.

I think I cracked the code. What I rotated my camera 90°, it didn't matter whether it was clockwise or counterclockwise the picture penetrated into the camera. When I use my Lenovo 1 millisecond monitor it was like double filtered with both the vertical and horizontal filter but when I rotated it 90°, they became parallel filters, not. perpendicular. Are all modern monitors considered vertically polarized and Master System goggles are considered horizontally polarized? The moment I cracked the code was when I looked at my TV high up from down below at a higher than 45° vertical angle. I noticed colors were distorted and the light was darker making me think that those, when combined with Sega scope glasses, are perpendicular filters that double filtered everything out. I got a question to ask at a favor I'm willing to pay someone to help me with. Question about modern TV polar filters. My monitor is not a 3D monitor but is a TN low ping monitor and my question is are all modern TVs LCD LED OLED and plasma all considered filtered TVs and if so are they all considered filtered the exact same degree of polarization? If they're all the same then this in theory is a universal way to use Master System glasses on a modern TV assuming you're paying time is quick enough where coming out of the Master System is close enough sink is coming out of your television monitor. That means discord system only works with low ping monitors? How low ping, I don't know. That has to be tested but one millisecond doesn't trip it. But that's for your show is that my theory of a universal add-on 3D TV kit is possible with these new TVs. That the only thing you have to compensate for is pig time and if you do that correctly or it's irrelevant then you got a universal add-on 3D filter. Now a favor I ask of a hobbyist (I'll be willing to pay for this service) can you take pre-existing Sega scope glasses without the arms (the reason for lack of arms is so you can velcro in the cameras more easily and tightly) and somehow rotate both halves of the eyepiece so that they're 90°. Yet are one integrated piece that doesn't have to be rotated sit flat and actually have true side by side stereoscopy? I'll provide one stereoscopic camera and one physically mangled at the arms but operationally working Sega scope goggle set. Just seeing if there are offers there. My next money refill is January 1st.

I know this is kind of nitpicking, but I could play literally every game I want among the ones I own, on my systems, except RF games not quite perfectly. For now I'm like gun games that don't need sub micro second timing to work I could just play through my VCR which acts as my RF to composite converter anyway, and since that's being piped to my capture card I have no problems... Except when it comes to 7800 light gun games. The only way to play him is default and a VCR brings a slight right time that draws your shot to the right. And since this was before calibration was standard in light gun games I know direct is the best way to play. I get a great picture through my CRT TV but the sound from the video game is non-existent. I just tested it with a ColecoVision but the reason I brought it up in the 7800 section was because the 7800 light gun games are the only games that are both RF and light gun. All my other light gun games are composite or higher and the RF games that don't need light guns are perfectly playable on a VCR. The funny thing is through the VCR through an RF splitter it does sound perfectly fine. Is it something wrong with the RF cable from the splitter to the TV or is it something wrong with the splitter itself or the ColecoVision RCA cable or the CRT TV itself a Sony Vega 24 inch flat CRT? I guess I could try another retro system and see if the sound comes back on with a different one then I might know it might be Colecovision-specific

I just found out that SPDIF cables are garbage. Very noisy in terms of color noise. It seems like if not everything in your chain is RF capable, it's a very noisy picture in both buzz and fuzz.

I have a button wiring system that works perfectly fine for the Xbox adaptive controller and as far as I could tell so far all the other controllers that work with it with Brook. adapters. However when I use the 3.5 mm connectors to plug them into the Edladdin Super CV, Ed was unaware of using 3.5 mm TRS cables as a way to easily reconfigure a stick. By the way this would be a perfectly cromulent issue because, on Ed's own Super CV stick the buttons are "index to index mirror mapped". However no matter which way you play it two games are always going to be messed up by it half the time depending on if you always play right-handed or left-handed. Tutankham would be backwards with a left fire/right stick arrangement. Shoot right would be the left fire button and vice versa. And Front Line would have the identical problem but with the opposite arrangements of left stick right fire, will rotate right is left of the rotate left button. Since most of the time you're going north you think of clockwise as right and counterclockwise as left. So unless you switch hands to what you're usually not used to, just to keep straight the fire buttons, this is going to be a problem. So couple questions. Do you need power to transmit signals along 3.5 mm TRS cables? How does power get to and from the standard ColecoVision joystick and the clique religion super extra controller with the original equipment? If someone were to replace it with the Edladdin Super CV, if I soldered it directly, would it directly work with buttons and stick? Would replacing direct soldering with 3.5 mm TRS change that fact? I tried asking the Facebook Fighting Game Community but they don't usually deal with systems that predate Street Fighter 2, (even though I say there's a lot of overlap between those two communities). Since this community is more retro-focused more broadly and more specifically into Atari owned systems and competing second generation consoles, maybe I get a better answer here.

I notice when searching "75 Ohm RCA", I get SPDIF / Coaxial surround RCA cables. Therefore, is it correct to assume that 2 SPDIF Y-adapters would be good for splitting between my direct to CRT for light guns and to my VCR for video capture as well as having male and female RCA 75 Ohm access?

I noticed most of my RCA cables though they can work as RF cables are not the best. Do they make RF grade RCA in the following connections? I need two male to male cables about 2 m in length, a y cable with one male and two females, and a double female barrel connector for Odyssey 2, Bally astrocade and other systems that have RF cables built in. Is it correct to assume that standard RCA cables are not shielded and I have to find shielded RC cables and Y adspter and barrel adapter, that would just be a simple as finding shielded RCAs. Do they make shielded barrel adapters and Y adapters. Is it as simple as that? Or is there more to it than that?

Is there an Atari- and Sony/Nintendo/Microsoft- authorized way to play Paddle, Trackball and Spinner games on the PS4/PS5/X1/XS/NS. The thumbpad does not fundamentally work on Warlords. You need to be able to "dial a position" to win, which is impossible with centering resistance on the thumbpad. Online games are hard without the right controller. Also 5200 games might also benefit from using their NON-centering analog controls.

The one feature that defined most Second-Generation default controllers were ambidextrous controllers. (OEM with the Bally, INTV, CV, 5200, Arcadia, 7800 Pro Line. As well 2600 via third parties, plus the OEM 2600 Trakball and 5200 Trakball. BTW, will the Keypad, Trakball, Steering controller. Light Gun, and Booster Grip work?) I'm surprised that when Atari made their "fight stick" it wasn't 180able and ambi. When you make a new two button joystick and a 2 button pad. PLEASE made them ambidextrous. Second generation controls have a joke that the good news is they are ambidextrous, and the bad.news is when you use those and get good, you're going to learn to be ambidextrous with the arm cramps of holding the joystick. Atari appeals to the age slice that make a right handed fight stick the number one requested product that goes unfulfilled at Gamestop. Do not follow the Japanese trend of left-move only controls. Be American. Make it Ambi. The Hori USA manager say an ambi stick would sell well in the USA, but Hades will have a zero degree Kelvin day before the main Japanese HQ allows it, even if localized to the US Market. Being used by everyone > left move only users.

I submitted my idea of Netrogames.com to Atari, and at the time Atari said they were afraid of Activision's lawyers about turning their 2 player games online. And the old Intellivision needed one piece of information to be discovered to okay my project. (Keith died in between me finding out that piece and reporting the fact to Steve Roney. It was cellular speed in kbps while in Direct Connect mode). I was wondering if the 2600 and 7800 games will be networked. Either there has to be a special networked version, or use Netrogames and cellular push to talk as a generic joystick trafficker.

Sorry to bump at the topic but I noticed that even though cannibalized Sega scope glasses ( meaning those who shudder mechanic work but the arms of the glasses are physically broken) seem to get the stutter correctly when it goes from composite VGA to HDMI via Retrotink 2x Pro M and then to VGA through a typical Amazon HDMI to VGA converter. The weird thing is that the CRT monitor that's a VGA does work and accurately captures the timing as well on the monitor. However my Lenovo g25-10 which I believe is a TN monitor, whatever that means, (all I know is it it's advertised as a gaming monitor with one millisecond change time, which is good enough for me) when I look through the 3D goggles on the Lenovo monitor I could see the clock the monitor and the outside world but the TV itself is totally black. I don't know anything about these new modern technologies but it seems like the light has been totally filtered out by the Sega scope glasses even on the unfiltered portion of the glasses that should be open. Can anyone explain that?

Here are some notes to myself and for any of you you who are trying to double tap their their Virtual Tapped Virtual Boys. I bought myself an AVermedia video editor. The good news is it has a VGA in, a VGA out, and a "VGA Style" video in. It also comes with a weird octopus cord that contains an S-Video in a composite in, 2 Atari-stylr 9 pin in which I believe is a different form of RGB or VGA video and a long bulk connector with it with two rows of at least 10 pins each. It seems that it takes whatever video is in the video input adds the VGA effects and sends it out through the output of either the S-Video or the composite. If my suspicion is correct it doesn't output the merged video on the VGA it just outputs the VGA in as it's coming out. I assume because it has no VGA output other than the computer mirror, then it doesn't have any video format translators. There's something I'm getting less than 24 hours away which looks like professional VGA equipment. Looking on the picture on eBay it had two VGA and one VGA out. I'm assuming this was a pre digital professional studio type level thing. I have merged the pictures before and got convincing 3D but the main problem is it adds very significant ping when you convert eqch eye individually to composite and then mix it through a composite converter. The culprit is not my blender. My blender blends low ping. The culprit of the pain is the VGA to composite converter. Does anyone know a quicker VGA to composite converter? Also how many dollars would it take to fund a true 2 VGA in one VGA out video merger that does RGB additive and syncs it up so it's a single picture and that's it? Whoever does it could design it so it fits on the back of a consolized virtual boy, so you can plug it in the back of the device with twin VGA an output single VGA in the back. But if it's already been invented, why reinvent the wheel? And probably if it's already invented it's cheaper just to harvest this stuff from people wanting to rid themselves of it than it is to hire someone to build a new one specifically for double tapping a virtual boy. This sucker looks huge like it would fit to the TV studio. You think that it would be shrunk if there was a big enough need for it. By the way, I double tapped my virtual boy in a lower resolution and with slight delay but the 3D effects are very convincing. And some games require the 3D to make sense of 3D judgments of space to make a decision. Now I can pick my poison, either quick screen time or three-dimensionalism. It's kind of hard to have both without TV-level equipment. Just do not play a very twitchy game like Galactic Pinball in 3d until someone (me perhaps if I can find a vga merger device in the wild) can solve this VGA merger situation. l

Do you have a video demonstrating how you did that? If so can I either use it to do it myself or show it to a local computer repairman?( if it's more complex than something one who installed Intellivision flashback adapters can handle?)

This is what I do know about my monitor. 1. All my HDMI native consoles do run correctly on the Lenovo g25-10. 2. The Retrotink 2X Pro M correctly converts composites components and S-Video directly as well as SCART through a second Retrotink connector, and RF through a Panasonic VHS VCR plugged into the antenna. 3. My Dreamcast in VGA mode works perfectly fine. 4. My old manager which was a CRT VGA did correctly run all those plus a virtual boy that is double tapped for VGA output. 5. The original way I ran the virtual boy was converting down to composite and then taking the composite through the Retro tank after going through a Panasonic video editor to merge the red left eye and the right cyan eye, thus merging two composite signals into one. That way currently does work with all my message and all my monitors but there is a big delay in playing Galactic pinball using this method. 6. On my CRT VGA monitor, the virtual boy does look crisp, and has way faster paint time than going through composite however I cannot doubly merge the two pictures into one unless I buy something which is coming as we speak in the mail to me: an AverMedia VGA Media Editor with two VGA video inputs and one VGA video output but apparently no controls on how to tune it or do the effects. I'm currently in an auction for another VGA merging product which is more professional and used by actual television studios. I don't know if I'm going to get outbid or not or whether I want to get outbid if the AverMedia product does a good job by itself. When I call Best Buy, Best Buy says they cannot help me with a one millisecond monitor hook directly up to consoles. Exact same advice I got when I called Lenovo which ironically took a very long time to find the toll free number to call and has a very wonky automated system that doesn't give you all the options for items. So I guess I got a few places I could go. I could go to Nintendo but this was an unauthorized add-on (namely the Virtual Double Tap) to the Virtual Boy in order to make it more playable in the eyes of most people. I hope I could reach a Virtual Tap person out there who either makes it, or installs it for a few or knows how to deal with it. I suspect it has to do with the fact that VGA has two-way communication whereas composite, component, S-Video, RF, and SCART only have one-way communication from device to TV. Unless someone gives me advice that would help me out sooner, I'm going to assume that the AverMedia VGA merger device is what would correctly merge two VGA video sources into one so that the issue of multiple VGA devices on the same chain with no longer be an issue and would be dealt with by the AverMedia device. Am I correct in assuming that two VGA sources cannot be in the same chain without being digitally accounted for by the talkback on the VGA? Also I noticed on BNC to VGA connectors that one pin is missing, the 9 pin I believe, and figure that has something to do with the two-way communications between VGA monitor and VGA source. Also I noticed that two video sources are being produced by the same machine that are not quite in sync with each other. Also does anyone know of any low ping VGA to composite converters because I tried playing Nintendo pinball directly through this composite video mixer, and the pinball flippers flipped perfectly fine in time exactly when I attended to and had no sense of delay. By the way I guess pinball would be the definitive ping tester for monitors. If you can play a video pinball game and it feels like real pinball and it originally did on a CRT TV then your monitor is considered low enough paying for your purposes. In which case I wholeheartedly endorse any one millisecond monitor to have close enough ping for everything except CRT light gun games which requires sub-microsecond accuracy, because the aim is determined by the timing of individual dot sweep done by the CRT. Do all these theories sound correct? I only saying this is a person who never dealt with PCs and I've always dealt with a Mac. Is there anything I could do or is the best advice to wait till Friday to get my AverMedia product in the mail?