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tripletopper

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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. Probably the Playstation is the best example of a controller adapter to use, because if you have a fight stick and play arcade-style/fight games with a 4/8 way stick, the Playstation is the most versatile controller. I personally own direct adapters for Master System, Genesis, SNES, Saturn, Dreamcast, Xbox, Game Cube, 360, PS3, Wii Classic, Xbox One. There are also ones for the PS4 I presume, but I don't own one, (especially if they are PS3 fight stick compatible), a 3DO, but I don't want that one because there's no daisy chain port, a Turbo Grafx, which is not a high priority because I have a Beeshu joystick, a Neo Geo, but I don't own one, and there is an AtariAge project for PS2-> 5200 elsewhere. Chaining may or may not work. I can get a 7-button switch fight stick using a PS2-> GC-> Switch via Wii U Game Cube Port adapter. But using a PS2-> Xbox 360-> Switch or PS2-> Xbox One-> Switch using a Coov N100 either doesn't work at all, or has glitches after ten minutes of playing due to double translation. So the less you double translate, the better. I don't know if PS2-> Genesis -> INTV would work, or PS2-> Genesis-. 7800, or PS2->GC->N64, or PS2->SNES->NES. No one can give me a definitive answer. Jaguar is one of the few controllers without an acceptable PS2-> System X solution. Another is Colecovision Super Action. A couple games glitch with Super Action, so PS2-> Standard Coleco is needed for Q*Bert's Qubes and Activision Decathlon. Also the Astrocade uses a different 9-pin standard than Atari. I heard you need either a Best Electronics Genesis-> Atari 2600 adapter or an Edladdin Genesis-> 7800 adapter. If the double conversions in the above paragraph don't work, those need to be made too. Someone may want a Vectrex, someone may want a Channel F. If a removable Odyssey 2 is not the same as Atari, that needs one too, Arcadia 2001 has attached controllers, so you got to live with them, which probably has no American fans, anyway. All their fans are foreign, but foreigners might want them. Also, maybe you should have a Y-adapter for a keypad controller. Just have different mappings for joypads, and fight sticks. I don't know if I need access to all keypad buttons, just Z, Y, X, L, and R. Someone has proposed a PS2-> jag adapter, but I can't find it by searching. If someone can find it, please post. I would buy one.
  2. I know I can adapt it with a HDMI->Composite monitor, but unfortunately, i tried to look at the youtube frame-by-frame playback, but pressing the left and right arrow advances 5 seconds, not one frame. Youtube doesn't have "frame-by-frame" advance. If the joystick/ button press is ahead of the move/jump, then my point is proven. I can display it, but until I see a frame by frame ping test, I'm not convinced that this will work as intended.
  3. HDMI? WHY? Some these games require pinpoint timing and need a CRT TV. Imagine playing a "second cycle" round of Lady Bug with some ping. It's possible on the lower levels with patience to beat that level on a CRT TV. Imagine if there was a 33 ms delay like the best TV at the time, the Playtstation 3D Display. I understand the HDMI technology doesn't add ping by its very existence, but it's just that all the TVs that accept HDMI technology use a TV display technology that is not low ping. And I'm not asking for sub-microsecond Light Gun ping for anything except light gun games, which Coleco doesn't have, but Composite outputs would be good for basic CRT TVs and S-Video and Component for more premium ones. Until they attach an HDMI connection to a CRT TV, and it can properly do both 4x3 and 16x9 modes, you should have an alternative. I've heard of something called an HDMI CRT Adapter which takes an HDMI signal and converts it to component and composite with no delay. Besides, some TVs can't do 240p natively without a conversion process which increases ping which kills the whole point of playing these games. Eve if I have a low Ping HDMI TV, unless it's both low ping enough for light gun games, and in 3D, I'll need 3 tcs downlstairs, one for 3D movies, one for light gun games,a and one for the rest. I already have 2. A 3D 240p/480i->2160p CRTTV would be the solution. I believe a 24 inch 16x9 screen is smaller than a 4x3 one of the same diagonal. So why not a 24 inch 4k CRT 3D TV, that can go down to 240p for old school games and have the Segascope 3D work too..
  4. I was thinking that'sa weird choice of fire buttons. For the purposes of a joypad, which was the original intent of the controller, and not a fight stick, like I'd want, an X and a ^ would make it hard to bridge if you have to rapid fire one and hold the other. Most thumbs are a) not big enough to cover the gap between the X and ^, and b) you have to hold your hand at a weird angle. It's just as bad for a fight stick, based on the Street Fighter 15th Anniversary Layout, it would be (assuming the first set of L1/R1/^ is top button because it would be smart to have x as your main trigger): [] ^ R1 L1 X O R2 L2 which maps to: ? T T T B ? B B The Ascii arrangement used for Playstation 1 authorized fight sticks is: L1 [] ^ R1 L2 X O R2 which maps to: T ? T T B B ? B The joypad makes little sense because you either have your most rapid fire on the the Triangle ( if you have your bottom button on the L1/R1 index finger trigger and my assumption was right), or the most rapid fire on the middle finger. (if the rapid fire is on the X, and my initial assumption is wrong) By the way is this the final way you make it to everyone who buys one, or is there room for customization by the individual order? If there is, maybe you do it right the first time and accommodate all possible combinations, then there'd be a special "joystick OS button which reprograms the control. Press joystick OS then 1-9 keys are custom-programmed arrangements. Pound equals number mode, press a PS2 pad/stick button then a keypad button to define a keypad button to that button. Star is "button mode", where you hold a PS button and press key one for bottom button, key 2 is top button, key 3 is reserved for keypad presses for pound, mode 4 is reserved for 5200 OS buttons (start Pause, Reset) and 0enters "other mode" where star toggles 100% maximum radius on and off on digital mode (which is toggled by the analog button on the PS1, or is automatically digital if there is no analog button, like most fight sticks) with one beep if on and 2 peeps if off. Zero is define current setup to be arrangement 1-9, and pound could be used for other functions, like "fiip axis mode." for Star Wars where 2 makes up dgo up, 8 makes down go up, 6 makes right go right, 4 makes left go right. Unless someone can think of any other function these PS buttons can be assigned that I didn't miss, then I guess all bases are covered. There's enough 8 more keys that can be used in the miscellaneous that can be used for any functions I missed. If you incorporate this well, accommodate everyone's needs, this might be a handy adapter along the lines of a Tototek adapter which converts PS2/PS1 to older systems. The last thing I see is an opposite gender 15 pin for hooking up an actual keypad for Space Shuttle and Star Raiders. I'd pay at least $20 plus shipping for such an adapter already built. Considering the fact Matthew Gummo, who specializes in analog digitizations, can't convert a 5200 controller for pad hacking, this might come in handy.
  5. Also why a PS2 and NOT A PS1 Dual Shock 1? Wouldn't the digital buttons be an easier conversion than the analog buttons on a PS2? I know a PS2 controller works on a PS1 system as a press of a certain level or other registers as a digital hit, and likewise a PS1 controller on a PS2 machine on either PS1 or PS2 software, but doesn't work work on analog button-required games. And also wouldn't the default be digital, but pressing the analog button puts in analog mode on PS1. This manual pressing would come in handy for fight sticks. Plus if it also works with digital PS1 sticks, and fight sticks, then it's a complete solution. The only other issue is the 141% of radius diagonals when digital. You need something smart to make a diagonal 70.7% of maximum center to edge potentiometer distance when it's diagonal, but 100% when it's a cardinal, so there's no errors in certain games, and cheating issues in others. You don't need it in analog mode because the circular gate on the 5200 and PS2 keep the simultaneous 100%X AND 100%Y in check, by locking it out.
  6. What good is an Atari 5200 controller that can ONLY do Start, Select and Pause, and NOT bottom or top? If it doesn't even do the top and bottom button (or on the Trackbal,l the inner and outer button) then only games that don't use either action button would work. I was wondering what maps to top and bottom? If I could chose which buttons are top button and bottom button, I would want X=bottom and O=top for my fight stick. The one exception I can conceive of is if Tutankham was made for the 5200 in which case, when right handed, I want them flipped. That game relies heavily on a "left fire" and "right fire", not a "main fire" and an "aux fire". if someone retrobrews Tutankham for the 5200, there should be a button flip option. Because in both cases trigger finger is on the button button and the thumb is on the top bottom, but on right-stick the bottom button is right, and on left-stick the bottom button is on the left. Like at the beginning of each player's first life,the screen says press "right fire" to proceed. You press whichever button you want to be right. The other keypad buttons are a lower priority, but I can see using the 0 in Defender and a few other games that use 0 as a third button, which I believe is the most common third button. I guess if I'm playing Countermeasure, I could mount the keyboard next to my fight stick and enter the codes on the manual keypad for the 1,2,3. It works on digital on an Atari 800 reprogram, so it could work in digital mode on a 5200. And if a game uses a full 12 key keypad, it probably has analog controls and should be used with Best Electronics gold controller. But even if it had digital controls, probably the Best should be used with 12 keys.
  7. What exactly is the button mapping? What PS button equals bottom, and what PS button equals top. Would the other buttons work as keypad buttons for certain games? I would prefer X= Bottom, and O=Top. (assuming the bottom button is considered main fire) A previous post of mine has a full mapping of what I would want with 4 of the buttons. Unless someone can see a reason why 1,2,3, and 0 are not the main 4 keypad buttons to program in, I'd like to hear an argument for different numbers. By there way, there are 2 extra buttons. I guess one main button equals pause (in my setup, either L2 or L1), start equals start and select equals reset. I've got room for one other number. Again if someone can think of an argument for any number other than 1, 2, 3, and 0 as the other buttons on te main PS2 controller for the extra buttons, I'd like to hear it.
  8. It would mainly matter in D-Pad mode. In analog Mode, the Playstaiton analog has a natural circular gate, which maps one-to-one with an analog 5200 controller with THEIR physical restrictor. With 8 ways, all you have to do is compute Abs(x)=Abs(y) AND (X^2)+(Y^2)=R^2. The magic number as I shown in my previous post is +- 70.7% assuming -100%<=x<=+100% AND -100%<=y<=+100%. I don't know how the 5200 and PS2 map THEIR analogs, but this concept is used. There are no other angles than the 45 degree diagonals. This is not an Intellivision we're talking about. By the way, why PS2? Why not PS1 Dual Shock 1? The only difference is the PS2 has pressure based analog d-pad, face buttons, and shoulder buttons. I don't know if the pressure sensitive feature of the PS2 will be used in any way. If that's not the case, then the PS1 Dual Shock 1 is all that's necessary. Right?
  9. I was arguing this point on the Astrocade ICBM controller. I didn't know whether the orgiginal controller, whihc ws an analog controller with an X and Y with 3 buttons, had centering resistance or not, and whether it had a circular restrictor, like the 5200, or whether it had a square restrictor, like an Apple iie controller. I said those tings matter. They asked me what I would want in the cotnroller, I said since it was originally made for ICBM, that the way the designers of the controllers designed it, and the game programmers made it, that's the way it should be. Since I've seen a Atari 5200 controller, I know what its normal nature is like. But the ICBM controller was only in a prototype stage. And their controller was used only for that game. I showed a consequence of if it had an originally square resistor and you try to retrofit it with a circular resistor controller. Read these original questions and answers searching ICBM on Bally Alley Yahoo Group. I discussed certain issues itf it was desgined one way, and later implemented another. I have an illustrated example of not reaching reaching a city as an unintended consequence of the original design being a square restrictor, then retrofitting a circular restrictor. I know of the consequences of adding auto-center in games which were designed not to auto-center. Xbox One Warlords doesn't feel right in absolute mode dialing a position, just like a paddle, and fighting centering resistance. it's really tiring. That's why only certain games benefit from auto-centering on the 5200 controller, and certain other games get hindered bad. Also using Pythagorean theorem and keeping X and Y equal, 70.7 % is the level the cardinals should be at when the diagonal is pressed and the desired radius is 100%: (.707 ^ 2) + (.707^2) = 2* (.499849) =.999698 and taking the square root of that is = .999849 which on a 8 bit per axis system is so close to 1.00 that it virtually is 1.00
  10. I just confirmed he can do reverse Flashback adapters and INTV 2 controller-> INTV 1 console adapters too. But not now, his "blank" db9 heads have to come in. But they shouid be ready by the time the INTV Genesis and Jaguar adapters are ready. I asked if he could do Atari joystick -> Astrocade console adapters, he said he COULD do it, but with no guarantee, because he has no Astrocade machine or Atari controller to test it with.
  11. I know it takes electronic brains to make this work. You just can't pad-hack an intellivision controller and make it work. You're going to need CPU brains somewhere. I'd like one Genesis one and one Jaguar one.
  12. Yes I understand there's an independent X and Y, and if it were not for the physical circle restrictor, the X can be actuated 100% and the y can be actuated 100% together, and the radius would be 141% using x,y to r,A conversions. Also my previous post mentions a clever way of using an 80% minimum actuation to turn an analog stick into a 4-way. But the Competition Pro ruins it with simultaneous 100% x and 100%y
  13. The problem is that the Atari 5200 has a physical stick limiter which keeps it at a maximum 100%, so only a broken joystick, when converting from x,y to r,A is where r>100 hence the N and E simultaneously in some programs thinking it's 141% Some games use that fact to turn it into a 4-way stick: If any direction is 80% or greater, then the perpendicular is always below 60%. So there's a diagonal dead zone. I know Popeye has this problem when using a Competition Pro, and actuating a diagonal. other games include maybe Mountain King, maybe Wizard of Wor, or any other 4-way game you can think of can potentially have the problem. It may not be a radius problem, but programming assumption that assumes there are no diagonals by making the threshold 80% If there is a guarantee of no simultaneous X and Y due to the circle limit, a lazy way to save a few bits is to institute the 80% standard. If the joystick forces the issue by physically limiting non-simultaneous 80% horizontal and 80% vertical, then you can save bits by not writing more complex conditionals. And in those days, you were fighting for K like Atari 2600 programmers were fighting for bits. But the Competition Pro threw that out the window. Then there is another unintended competitive consequence: the diagonal speed boost. In something like The Dreadnaught factor, if the controls are analog, then the maximum radius is 100%, because the joystick has a physical circle limiter. But would it considered cheating for the purposes of Twin Galaxies records to have a Competition Pro because your diagonals have a speed of 141% of the cardinal maximum. You can cover more ground 2 dimensionally, or you can weave up and down as you move left at full speed whether you go straight-left, up-left, or down-left. So for the reasons of both 4 way games not working right as well as cheating in games that have a diagonal speed boost, maybe there should be a default 100% Maximum mode, where pressing a diagonal automatically makes it 100% by actuating a dome 2-axis potentiometer as 100% by 45 degrees. and to unlock "diagonal boost mode", a button must be held. Which means, when diagonal, the 2 corresponding cardinals equal 70.7% If I'm going for a Twin Galaxies record on Twitch and people try and don't get the diagonal sped boost with default 5200 controllers, people will accuse me of cheating. I would have to put that disclaimer on all my 5200 twitch streams. (once I get 5G, but slow internet is another issue.) I feel sorry for someone who innocently breaks a record and then finds out the joystick gave a programming advantage with the diagonal speed boost, then it gets challenged by someone who shows diagonal speed on a default controller. Then they have to make 2 separate divisions, one with a 100% maximum limiter, and one with a diagonal speed boost. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Also about the buttons: I'm thinking given the following mapping for the fight stick (Street Fighter 15th Anniversary stick): [] ^ R1 L1 X O R2 L2 The 5200 buttons should equal: 1 2 3 ? B T 0 ? That's assuming the bottom button is the "main" rapid fire button, and the concept of left fire and right fire is not involved, like Tutankham (was there a 5200 version of that game?) I have a little obsession about right handed fight sticks. I successfully righthanded my Street Fighter 15, becuase that stick has an acceptable right-handed contpour or rectangular. If the game has a concept of main and aux fire, then that maps correctly when horizontally flipped. But in the case of Tutankham: ? 3 2 1 ? 0 T B If B=left and T=right then you got an inverision problem. Right button to fire left and left button to fire right. Also if in Countermeasure the 3 symbol buttons make sense where they are numbered 1, 2, and 3, AND make sense in a left-to-right fashion, MAYBE a backwards mapping of the number keys. That way Countermeasure you can use the joystick buttons for typing in the launch cancellation code, and the 0 button can be used for Hyperspace in Defender. Those are probably the 2 keypad-heaviest games. Space Shuttle uses a lot of keys, but lightly. Same with RealSports games and Star Raiders I assume. L2 can equal pause, Start can equal start, and Select can equal reset. So you got one button left. Keep in mind this would probably be the best mapping for fight sticks. I understand pads may be different. So maybe holding the last button, the L1, together with face buttons can activate Pad mode, Street Fighter Joystick mode, Ascii Joystick mode (which has a different mapping), and 100% Maximum toggle on/off, always resets to Max on. The memory would hold the other 4 items.) So what is the button mapping you originally have on the 5200 controller for top and bottom buttons? Was Defender hyperspace and Countermeasure codes included? If you assume the standard Dual Shock 2, if the SNES Nuts have their way, and it's mapped likeMario, Mega Man, and Super Ghouls N Ghosts, this would probably be the default arrangement: --^-- []---O --X-- equals --?-- B---0 --T-- If I had needed a pad for analog games (Even though I'd argue centering resistance in the Left stick makes "dialing a position in Kaboom and Super Breakout in one dfimension, and Star Wars in 2D, verfy strenuous, inaccurate, and tiring. So I'd use a Best Electronics rebuilt 5200 standard stick. No centering resistance means more accurate posiitoning in those games. I might use it for games where you HAVE to accurately find center, yet can use analog, like Galaxian and Dreadnaught Factor.)), I'd two-finger the pad and use: --0-- ?---T --B-- Probably 0 is the best third button because I believe a couple other games besides Defender use 0 as a third button. I gave my opinion about these matters. I want to hear others. (The opinion is admittedly long due to a lack of real-world socializing, and 100% of my socializing is online, except for a few offline friends I knew before I went online and that's once every 2-3 months.)
  14. Also a question about the digtiization: If N=100% North and E=100% East, and there's no other processing then those 2 combine to 141% NE, becuase in the original 5200 control design, there is no circle limiter in the logic of the potentiometers, butt here is a "physical plastic circle limiter" on the joystick. The Compettion coin is a simple joystick that actuates
  15. Also isn't PS2 a little overkill, because PS1 has just digital buttons, but PS2 has analog face, D Pad and shoulder buttons? Wouldn't it be easier to work with a standard PS1, or if you want analog, a PS1 Dual Shock 1. And doesn't a Dual Shock 2 default down to a Dual Shock 1 when plugged in a PS1 anyway? Why work with a PS2 when PS1 is fine?
  16. No one is answering this question. If you plug in a digital PS1 pad, or a fight stick with only a digital control, will the d-Pad/stick map to the 5200 analog stick? Never got that answer.
  17. Also about Total Carnage, if I remember right is a twin stick shooter, like Smash TV. The arcade version as demonstrated on Midway's Arcade Treasures 3 on Game Cube had a move stick, a fire stick, and a bomb button as Z? I don't know what the arrangement is on the Jaguar, but an SNES Smash TV arrangement with Y=north fire, Z=west fire, C = south fire, B=east fire, pressing any 2 non-contradictory diagonals as that diagonal, and X, A, L and/or R being the bomb button, makes perfect sense to me. It doesn't sound like they used that setup.
  18. It looks like, unless someone can make a strong defense of the Jaguar version of NBA Jam over SNES, Saturn, or PS1 versions, there are no UNIQUELY Jaguar games that need more than 2 Pro Pads that run on one console and one TV. And unless there is a Jag Link game that hooks up more than 2 people, there are no UNIQUELY Jaguar games that require more than 2 Pro Pads period Is literally the only 3+ player game where the Pro Pad comes in handy NBA Jam, a game that's shared by many consoles? If you're a die-hard completist Jag fan with 3 frequent friends and no other systems from that era, then it's smart to get 4 Pro Pads. Otherwise assuming you take care of your pads, most people will only need 2 at most. Remember: this is coming from a Johnny-come-lately toe-dipper, not a true back-in-the-day, pedal-to-the-metal Jag fan. Can someone who bleeds Luma, Red, and Chroma minus Red give a reason why YOU would want more than 2 Jag Pro pads, other than wear and tear?
  19. As for the INTV FB<-> INTV 2 converters, if you don't want to add that functionality, may I refer you to intelliviisonaries.com the INTV podcast, and Nurmix uses it as a store for his INTV FB-> INTV 1 and INTV FB-> INTV 2 passive controller adapters. I own a pair of INTV FB-> INTV 1 adapters, even installed them myself, and bought 3 Flashback pads, 2 for the new console, and one to pad hack or a fight stick. If you don't want to add the feature, consider it taken care of. Unfortunately, I understand pad hacking enough to know in most consoles (North=1 AND East = 1) electronically equals NE. The 2 toughest system to deal with that problem are the 5200 and Intelllivision. With the 5200, 100% N + 100 % E = 141% NE. Only a couple games go into error when that happens, and that can be prevented with a mechanical 4/8-way switchable gate which prevents diagonals. Intellivision requires actual processing brains because one pin does not equal one direction. Northeast is a separate actuator and not just the electronic sum of the North plus East. It would require some sort of circuit somewhere which either on the joystick, actuate another switch when the 2 cardinals are combined, or what you're doing on the Inteliivision. Since it's stupid to re-invent the wheel, I'll wait until this comes out. I may get either one Genesis and One Jaguar or 2 Genesis ones, depending on how "keypad heavy" certain Intelliivison games are. I guess it depends on what my main 2up, either my firends or my brother, want for intellivision, either a Genesis or a Jaguar.
  20. I'm mainly going to do it on November the third becuase of "my word is my bond" thing i TRY to live up to if I can. I don't know whether to root for a sellout before November 3rd or not, both for my sake and for Starwinder's. I hope he sells out soon after. Did Starwinder make his minimum to break even yet? If November 3rd comes and there's a pair, I'll pick a pair up. If not, congratulations Starwinder. And Starwinder, I'm trying to keep in the spirit of this by keeping one of the 2 controllers, because except for NBA Jam, (and even that I can use a fight stick, or 2-finger the action buttons,) you don't need 3 or more Pro controllers, assuming you take good care of them. A lot of people believe the spirit of the extra supply is to get GAME PLAYERS a chance to play games with the Jag Pro. Since I already have one, and you must get 2 to buy, so it is in the spirit of the order to buy 2 and sell one on ebay. That's also why I'm waiting for November 3rd: the Jaguar doesn't mean enough to my younger life to be in love with it. I was more of a Saturn guy. If it's there I'l get a pair, if not, hopefully bigger fans than I and not speculators bought most these. That's why I'm also keeping one. Since i already have one, I asked Starwinder if keeping one and ebaying the other is in the spirit of the production. According to what he emailed me, Starwinder cares less about what happens to them than some posters at Atari Age do. I was honest with Starwinder, told him my intentions, and he said go ahead: Wait until November 3rd, and if there are none on ebay at that time, then buy a pair and ebay one of them. I don't know whether to root for the sellout before November 3rd or against.
  21. 1) That's when I get paid. I'm on Social Security disability, and have to wait until the 3rd of the month. 2) I don't have credit cards, only debit cards. I usually don't borrow. 3) I got to sell my extra Colecoviiosn once I get it repaired by Thursday. When that's done. I'll get it. 4) It's not THAT important to me where I HAVE to have one at all costs. If it happens to be there when I get enough money, fine, I'll get one. Otherwise I'll just have to live with just ONE genuine Pro Pad and no repro. I'm mainly doing it because I was on the preorder list. It it sells out before I buy, then Starwinder doesn't need my purchase. If it's there, I'll take advantage of it. By the way, Starwinder gave me implied permission to sell both, but I respect both the Jaguar community and the properties of the Jag Pro controller where if get one pair, I'll keep one and sell the other on ebay, and be honest about it being a repro on ebay.
  22. Well I didn't know how ketypad heavy the AVP game would be. Probably the most "keypad heavy" concept I can think of is my idea for "Dancing fingers bomb", if it were actually made. A game I thought would make an interesting "Go to the Party Jag" party mini-game. Not good enough to be it's own cartridge, but could be part of a fun mini-game package. By the way "Dancing Fingers Bomb" is kind of like a keypad finger Twister. You have to press 6 buttons at a time, then release one button and press a different button, while keeping the other 5 held. Let your finger off the wrong button or touch a wrong button. and BOOM. As for keypad heaviness for existing games, the only keys in heavy use are 46789, hence why the Pro pad was made. Wouldn't that make it MORE vital to have quick access to 46789, as opposed to taking one out and putting in a shift button. If none of the other keys need quick and heavy access, then plugging in a Jag pad fore the keypad would be cool. I guess there are n ture 8 button games, except the full-keypad games. Most either use 46 or 789, usually not both, but both ARE there for the options..
  23. Just looking for some thrift store finds. I mainly bought it as a "just in case" purchase. Luckily I found Atari Karts for $1, and a genuine Pro Pad for $20 afterwords.
  24. I'd probably use my fight stick for any game where the concept of a left and right shoulder button doesn't have to specifically be a shoulder button. (Atari Karts is the biggest example of a specific shoulder button requirement that would be awkward with a fight stick.) I'd use the fight stick for any 3 button game that doesmn't use heavy keypad. I' was considering hooking up an external keypad to my joystick, which would be outside the buttons. for other consoles like the 5200, Colecovision and Intellivision. I guess 4 would be the "consumable klck" (3K) button and the 6 would be the "consumable punch" or 3P buttton, if we were using the saturn Street Fighter standard. I guess depending on the price vs versatility of a Jag Pad padhack vs a PS1 adapter I'll get either one . A pad hack would be more versatile, and less confusing for keypad heavy games, abnd it would aklso let me "pick my other 5 main buttons if I don't like the Jag Pro default, but a PS2-> Jag adpater would be better if it were significantly cheaper than having someone mannually padhack a Jag 3 button.. About what percentage of jaguar games are considered "pad heavy" which you must quickly use more than just 46789? I think AVP would be considered a VERY Pad heavy game. All the keys look occupied. Any others? So Do I hold the 'light punch" button when I power on the Jaguar with the stick already plugged in, or when I plug it in after I turn on the jag? I assume holding while resetting wouldn't work becuase it doesn't choke of power to the PS1-> Jaguar adapter. Also, if you can get these semi-mass produced, ToTotek might be interested in selling your PS1-> Jaguar adapter. Also, you don't have to use an external extra keyboard, Just use a second Joystick in plug and let it be a passthrough, so you can activate the keypad ona real jag Pad mounted next to the fight stick. Maybe use the "Heavy Punch" button as the alpha and beta as the no-shift external Jag keypad mode.
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