tripletopper

I know starwinder is just filling in a little community gap. I'm not saying he's tryign to make big bucks. I was just openly debatign whether to get a second controller, which requires me getting an unnecessary third controller. At first I had this face $) I asked if there was an option to buy one, Starwinder said no. Then I delved deep, do I really want to spend $60 on a second player for one game I have where a standard controller sucks, when I rarely have 2UPs, and I don't play much Jaguar NOW, and would me no more than a 5 minute curiosity to my friends and brother? Add to the fact that I couldn't guarantee that the price wouldn't fetch the retail $60 for 1 if i was honest and told them it was the Strawinder Re-Pro Jag Pro. It could be worth more than $60 if you only need one, it could be worth less. It may be worth more but cost big bucks in headaches if the buyer doens't understand it's a community shortage stopper. and is not meant to be an original, or a reproduction in order to deceive. After further recollection, if the odds are greater that Aliens will visit earth in my lifetime than I will find a player 2 who wants to play Atari Karts, then maybe me paying $125 for 2 controllers, and hoping to sell one for $60+ without headaches is too much for me, especially for one game. I decided to put some of that money in tototek fight stick adapters for Genesis and SNES. That would be WAY more useful than a 2UP controller for one game. I'm glad the Atari Jaguar community enjoys this. If the orders come down to one Jag Pro for $60 MAYBE once I'm done with my fight stick, I'll consider it. I don't need two more. I'm glad I found a Genuine Pro Pad for $20 in 2003. I shouldn't get greedy. It's just as likely that Jag-pro reproswill be less expensive than $60/stick as it would be more expensive. I'll take my chances on a coin flip.

That is true. If you announce "they are not genuine Jaguar controllers", the price may go down, even thought you can couch it up by saying they are following the original patent design and quality on everything except the Atari Logo, which is true. Likewise it would be cruel to not mention the fact they are Re-pros and you fetch a very close to genuine Atari Price for it, and then have someone return it because I didn’t mention it was a re-pro. They’d say, "Where’s the Atari logo?" And have a bitter fight with ebay. I just don’t want to deal with the headaches with a re-pro, patent-expired "tribute" copy designed to feel and play exactly like a genuine Atari, but made by an indie to fill a shortage on the market. If i say it’s too similar, I’d get sendbacks if they thought it was genuine. If I play it off as a copy, I’d get nowhere near the retail price because some people will suspect it’s a cheap cash-in knockoff. The only way they’d know about this is if they follow the Atari Age forum. But if you follow this Atari Age forum, you won’t pay more than $60 plus shipping today. I just don’t know if the ebay market will treat is as more than $60 or a less than $60 item. I understand it’s not a contemporary knockoff. But I don’t know what ebay will think. I really don’t need a second joystick for something that is more than a 5-minute curiosity among my friends. If the price goes down on a re-pro, I’ll take advantage of it and be glad I have a genuine Atari and a second oh-so-close re-pro. If it goes up, I’ll say it was too risky to go into hock for something that may not achieve its repro retail value on ebay, and be glad I have a genuine Atar, and be glad for the richer folks that got on it. By the way, don't turn it into a 6-button rotary control, It would be a waste on a repro since (i heard) Tempset 2000, the only game with rotary control, (unless you count retro brew Super Sprint.) doesn't use keypad buttons (and if it's a literal arcade translation, Super Sprint doesn't use it either.). Likewise I'm smart enough to know, if I'm going to make a pad hack fight stick, use a common 3 button one, because the other 5 buttons equal keypad presses in a more convenient form. Plius with a little ingenuity, I can get the other 5 joystick buttons to equal ANY 5 keypad presses, not just the default ones thet thew Pro Controllers allow. By the way, what ARE the 5 buttons that the Pro COntrollers use. It seems like they're programmable by the ROM, because I've seen 1 and 3 equal L and R and I've seen 4 and 6 equal L and R on Missile Command 3D and Atari Karts respectively. Are the pro extra buttons programmable by the ROM and can change from game to game, or is there one "dumb mapping"? Primal Rage's Pro Controller scheme, based on the scanned instructions, makes me question the "dumb mapping theory"

Back to the subject, who said anything about using the thumb on the disc. I use my right INDEX FINGER on the disc, and move it to press keypad buttons, and use the left thumb, index and middle fingers for the buttons. The only 2 things tat do work simultaneously are the pad and the buttons. If a keypad is pushed, the buttons and disc make it do weird things if presses together. Probably the finest ergonomic example and the pinnacle of the American Era in Video Gaming was the Colecovision Super Action Controller. One hand on the joystick, and one finger on each of the 4 buttons. He joystick hand also operated the keypad and the roller wheel. All Coleco games were designed so you don't have to use the roller, joystick and keypad all at the same time. The buttons was your home controls. Also if you let go of the buttons, the controller falls. Your left hand was used to holding controls since the 2600 days. Even the mighty 2600 had almost every third party making lefty (actually Aambidextrous) third party sticks and lefty pin-swap adapters. And the computers had some games with software-based lefty modes. Why do none of the Japanese companies have rightie sticks? It took Beeshu to make right handed arcade sticks for the NES, Sega Master System, TG16, and Genesis. I have to literally get yelled at by people at Shoryuken who either don't understand sticks are for more than just fighting games, or don't know a possible danger in fixed mapping according to a mirror standard only. If you've played Tutankham, Side Arms, or Pac-Land you know exactly what I'm talking about with just 2 buttons. Left fire button to fire right, and vice versa. Most people on Shoryuken do good work, they just don't see the need for flex mapping. Unless you specifically mention it, everyone assumes you're joystick left, and you are happy with that. Visit http://56ok.org/Ambidextrous to read a story on how, for 2 weeks I was the local king of Street Fighter, and one of the people I beat in 1993 you may have heard of if you followed video game competitions from 2005-2009. The secret is a right handed fight stick. Then the joystick broke down in 2 weeks, and (I'll name them) KY Enterprises' idea of customer service was solder it yourself. Nintendo said learn to play and beat the other guys using your off hand. It was Sega who recommended KY Enterprise for custom sticks. They gave me 2 weeks of joy worth a lifetime, and $50-75 wasted in 2 weeks in 1993.

I guess it depends on the game. There are 3 independent buttons. Games that require all 3 I claw grip with my left hand thumb on the bottom left buton, middle finger on the bottom right, and index finger on top side. and use my right index finger for the disc and keypad presses. If the game just uses a single top button, or all 4 buttons have the same function, since I'm used to thumbing it on the Colecovision, because on the standard controller, the thumb was the primary button, the thumb is the instant habit, but I can see advantages to an index finger. If the game uses the top button and synched bottom buttons, I use my index and middle fingers, but can resort to a thumb when they get tired. If it just uses asymmetrical bottom buttons, the thumb on left bottom, and index finger on right bottom. I guess if a game requires rapid manual fire, and either the top and bottom or the botom left and bottom right are symmetric, I tend to use all 3, but in alternating shifts of 2 at a time. On Mouse Trap, which requires quick key presses, I use my left thumb to activate the doors and dog, it's just in a slightly different position compared to the Colecovision. And I'm disc right. I can't really answer the question because it depends on the game.

What I'm saying is I rarely have a second player over, and they are most likely not going to play Atari Karts, and you really need only 2 pro controllers at most (Unless you "hold the controller" instead of "laying the controller down and 2 fingering it" like a Genesis controller on NBA Jam, then you can make an argument for 4 Pros). So one genuine Atari brand one is fine with me. And who knows how the ebay market will respond if someone splits a pair and sell one Re-Pro Jag-Pro. If they get more than $65 for one, more power to them. But it's just as likely the ebay market might DEVALUE it becuase it is not a genuine Atari Controller. Most genuine Sega 3-button controllers go for $10.00 on ebay, compared to $5 for "unlicensed third party" 6-button joysticks. and Genuine 6-ers go from $15-20. I notice the more common the knockoffs were, the cheaper they were. NES knockoffs go for $5, while NES orginais go from $10-20. but a Naki 3DO goes for $15, only $5 less than a Goldstar 3DO. Because it wasn't a"back in the day ripoff" like most third party controllers are, and maybe, because it's advertised as "everything genuine except the Atari logo" and designed to fill a market, not cheaply exploit it, it MIGHT hold its value more than a back-in-the-day ripoff controller, but probably the genuine Atari brand ones will fetch more ebay money, just because they are genuine Atari brand.

Does anyone havea problem with the "paddle games" on the Xbox One Atari compilations? I tried Warlords and Breakout, and to get he genuine experience, and the ability to "dial any posiition" I selected absolute posiitioning. Otherwise it feels like a "joystick replacement" version of it. This setup would make the Atari 5200 controllers a welcome edition. Because when you try to finely dial a position, you have to actively HOLD it in postion, instead of a 2600 paddle or 5200 stick of moving to the postition and relaxing. You're actually using muscles to fight centering resistance. That's why self centering would be a bad thing in most analog 5200 games, even though it would come in handy in digital 5200 games. I tried purchasing something that lets you plug in Atari 2600 paddles. Apparently the Xbox One doesn't support it. Too many of the games are too controller-specific, whether it be paddles, spinners, trackballs, flight yolks, or light guns. Some of these games are unplayable with a standard controller, especially paddle games.

Aren't those "homebrew prints" meaning they weren't retail cartridges and/or discs when the Atari Jaguar was considered a "current" system, and only came when the access code 64020141 (which in 7 hexadecimal-digit code was 3d0dead) was tried and published as a way to easily make homebrew Jag games. I wasn't implying those weren't the only more-than-2 player games, just all the "current brew" titles. By the way, does Super Sprint use the rotary controller, and is that considered an Atari title or a Midway title? (those 2 companies inter-mingled along with Bally and Williams and Warner Bros. so it' a complicated history.)

1) I know of only 2 games that use 4 Jag controllers of ANY kind: NBA JAm and White Men Can't Jump. 2) Though not a strict requirement, as I can two-finger a Regular Jaguar controller for NBA JAm, some people may feel more comfortable with a shoulder button on NBA JAM, so having 4 mihgt be jsutifiable. 3) The maximum number of player you need on One jaguar is 4 players. 4) Do I smell a professional retro game store owner or an ebay speculator buying 2 Re-Pro Jag-Pros? ( I don't know, my sense of smell is non-existent but I can smell bleach and harsh chemicals. Someone says that is more of a feel within my nose than a smell.) I know it's technically none of my business, and don't really expect an answer, but there's nothing wrong with someone stocking a cheap alternative to the Jag-Pro to sell for a profit.

I guess I should be happy I found one pro controller for $20 back in 2003. That was a good deal. Considering the fact I only have 2 Jaguar games, Atari karts (which I found for $1 in 2003) and Cybermorph, which came with the system when I bought it for $50 in 2002, and considering the fact that the Jaguar was a purchase to diversify my collection, and considering I don't play it much, and even more rarely find a second player to play Atari Karts, and considering the fact that I have to buy 2, and would probably sell one, and have to deal with complainers on ebay if they notice there is no Atari Logo on it, and knowing more suply drves the price down, I think I will pass. I said i would reserve earlier. My brother said it would be too risky to buy 2 for 125, sell one and get a sale on one that goes for $75 or more, and I may have to take it back if they notice the lack of an Atari Logo. Oh well, I can hope the extra supply brings the price down on the Jag Pro controllers on ebay. Maybe in terms of collectability, the Re-pros will be less desirable than the genuine Ataris, and I can buy "just One" for less. I don't know how many people will only require ONE Jag Pro controller, so there MAY be a rush to sell a Jag Pro controller from someone else who only wants one. Besides, let the bigger Jag fans get in on it. I can probably live without a second one, considering my first paragraph. Maybe I'll jump in on November 3rd when I get some more money, and see what the ebay market does in between then. I'm not a big enough Jag fan where it makes sense for me. But I'm glad they're out, and I'm glad true Jag fans can get them. There are 1000 pairs, and only 300 pairs need to be pre-ordered to break even. So there are 600-700 pairs left that are unspoken for. I can wait.

Actually I tried a 2600-to-USB adapter, and NO! Paddles, steering controls, and Trackballs DO NOT Work on an Xbox One version of Atari Flashback volumes 1 and 2. I doubt they'll work with an even more obscure Jaguar control standard to USB, and a non-standard USB at that. The question is what about AtariBocx and Tempest 4K? DO you have to buy an AtariBox (By the way, this is the second recycling of a system name, Xbox One was the first. Atari VCS?!!? Why not the 10400 (pronounced 1-0-4-Hundred, or hundred-4-hundred?) ) Do you have to buy an AtariBox to get the Jaguar or 2600 Rotary controller working with Tempest 4000?

I saw an alterantive for INTV controllers. There is a $10 DIY, or $20 pre made kit, where you can attach a Sega Genesis pad (or joystick I assume) and play. There is a iINTV controller port input for ypying in ketys, but the 3 buttons andf joypad can use Your choice of a Genesis or Jaguar controller. At this website: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/279920-controller-adapters-to-use-jaguar-or-genesis-controller-on-intellivision/?hl=%2Bintellivision+%2Bjaguar&do=findComment&comment=4111772 I'm interested in getting my right handed PS2 joystick, which I can adapt into a Sega Genesis with a Tototek adapter, and then plug THAT into the Genesis->INTV adapter. Only two problems, the controller doesn't do 16 ways and only does 8 ways. For most games that is not much of a sacrifice. I think the only game I know of that REQUIRES 16 ways or is rendered unplayable is Vectron. Some sports games might make you lose a little more precise control, but I don't know it f that renders it unplayable. Auto racing is considered analog steering on the "new harder" version, and that's 16 ways. Any other games that don't work with just 8 ways? The other problem is that I had my INTV 1 Flashback-Modded. I was doing it in anticipation of adding a fight stick to my INTV. And An INTV 1 machine is necessary, because I have some Coleco games that don't work on an INTV 2. The problem is that these adapter circuits are designed to work with INTV 2s, and neither INTV 1s nor INTV FBs. What would be the easiest route? 2x INTV 2 controller -> INTV 1 machine adapters and 2x INTV FB-> 2 adapters to work with my FB controllers , or adding 2X INTV 2-> INTV FB and a 2X INTV FB-> INTV 2 adapter for each controller. I guess I would prefer the first option so I can sell the 2 INTV FB -> INTV 1 adapters to someone on Ebay. Either way I have to buy 4 adapters, I'll have 2 adapters to sell if we go the first route. I guess it depends on what's cheaper INTV 1-> INTV 2 adapters, or INTV 2-> INTV FB adapters, and how much I can get for INTV FB-> 1 adapters. Can nurmix make any combination from any one of the 3 INTV types to any of the other 2 that isn't the first? I assume that works because it's a simple pin rerouting adapter with no circuity or other electronics. I found something else of use that just needs a simple 9-pin rerouting adapter with no other lectronics. It's an Atari Joystick -> astrocade system adapter. I'm hoping it can work on a Genesis and convert THAT to Astrocade. As I said, I don't need the paddle. If I need the paddle, or the Paddle + Joystick, I'll use a genuine Astrocade controller. This is for games that are real tiring with a genuine controller, link S[ace Fortress. If you've ever played Space Fortress the constant trigger squeezing fatigues your hand.

I'd like to buy 2 of these made for port 1 and port 2. Also if it's cheaper than buying 9 pin->9pin adapters from nurmix, maybe add a INTV2/INTV FB switch which can let you use it on an INTV 2 or Flashback input machines AND controllers, I'll pay extra for Flashback/INTV 2 switch on both the joystick end and the console end. And I'd like the Genesis version. SO I can use it with my [email protected] rifght-handed stick with a PS2->Genesis adapter. I assume 7800fan is the programmer of these devices. Haven't heard from him/her since July. I'd like a response on a USB connector with a Male and Female power plug. to plug the INTV and 5V power plug into the same plug on the surge protector. And an answer about the Flashback hookup too. I bought 2 INTV1 machine-> Flashback controller hookups to specifically hook up a Fight Stick to my INTV 1, and I sold my INTV 1 sticks and bought 2 Flashback controllers. I'm seeing what Nurmix's price for 2 copies FB controllers -> INTV2 machine adapters as well as either 2 INTV1 machine -> INTV2 controller adapters, or 2 Flashback console -> INTV 2 controller adapters. If yoiu can compensate for Flashback controllers for cheaper than Nurmix's adapters, I'll say make that an optional feature. Also 7800fan, if I didn't have INTV1 machine -> FB controller adapters, how are one of these supposed to work with an INTV 1, and how are Coleco games supposed to work if it only works for the INTV 2? I haven't heard a response from 7800fan. A little update on the Flashback and USB sitch, please?

Anyway, are the Jag Pro Controller Reproducitons ready to buy? I heard it has been approved and just needs to be shipped> An ETA on the shipment?

I heard that it can use the 3 button feature on the Genesis to use for the 2 action buttons on the Atari 5200. If that's the case, I'd want one. Is one currently for sale, or are you sold out? That would be the perfect solution for the non-analog 5200 games.

Do you have something that works for a while, and then suddenly stopped working. I found a Colecovision repairman on very limited things, basically I had to dictate to him what to do. He seems to be willing to help, but doesn't listen very well. I said I needed a Toslink out port repaired and he said nothing was wrong because he tested different ports. He saw a water stain on the Main CV circuit board, and I told him everything works except joyport one was taken off. (based on advice given by Adam's House when I was using the Atari Track N Field controller on the CV version of the Activision Decathlon. He told me to open it up an "pull the port" so I did, ripped it right out of its socket, implying it was a loose connection and can easily be reconnected. It was soldered on. They also just reprint lots of instruction books, some even in a VERY hard to read black and white, even though the originals were in color. I bought like $100 worth of instructions, and he just xeroxed them on a B/W and some were too dark to read. I didn't even get a discount in shipping by ordering all at once. If I knew they were reprints, I would have printed them myself. Out of business? Couldn't have happened to a nicer business.) I just needed the joyport fixed, and he told me to find an original Colecovision and chop the port from that. It never occurred to him that it might be a standardized part. So I did some web digging and found the part for $5 including shipping. I asked him if he could install it. And he saiid yes. But the water stain... First it's probably an isopropylhol stain from cleaning it. Second the circuit board works. The only thing that doesn't is joyport 1. Which got me thinking. What do I do with a non-working system. Is there someone around me who can repair it. If I find a machine elsewhere at a goodwill and it doesn't work, it would be kind of wasteful to sell it to a "weigh and Pay" recycler, who just melts it, when plenty of repairmen can use the parts that DO work. I would do it on Ebay, but, for example, a Laserdisc player I had was too heavy to make me any reasonable profit. The Price was $10 + $40 shipping, when Ebay and Paypal factor shipping price in their fees, I actually LOSE money by being responsible. So I gave it to goodwill, and told them its condition. Every recycler in my area was of the "Weigh and Pay" variety. There's probably local repairmen who can acquire parts for cheaper than a parts salesman by not scrapping it and buy low (but higher than the weigh and pay,) and either use them for their own projects or sell the part to another repairman. And they use their knowledge to make money by being able to accurately describe and test individual parts. Anyone within a 50 mile radius of 44273 who can buy non working video game machines for their parts value or can repair them if we want to keep them? Maybe this thread should be a worldwide directory of video game machine and accessory parts scavengers and repairmen who will either pay the bulk part value for your machine, or repair locally? I literally have no place to go without actually LOSING money doing the responsible thing. I checked Cleveland, Akron, and Medina County and no one buys parts. Until I find someone, the most responsible place I can take it to is a Goodwill. Ideally, the heavier the machine, the more profitable it is to drop off/pick up locally instead of paying the package carriers money and making a loss. Also buyers, dealing direct means you can pay more while making more. I tired Google, I tried Bing, I tired 3 county phone books. I don't know where to find one near Medina County, Ohio> By the we we make trips to Cuyahoga and summit counties too, so next time we go that way anyway, we'll make it a point to drop off.

1) Has anyone noticed thrift store finds seemed to have gone downhill in the wild ever since the popularity of Macklemore's "Thrift Shop" song, or is it just me? 2) Got a Goodwill donation story: I got from a friend who gave me third party Nintendo 64 steering wheel. When you factor in shipping the ebay and paypal fees are more than what you'l get in profit, so I gave it to goodwill. Add to the fact that I tested it and the built-in rumble didn't work, but everything else DID, it drops its ebay value even more, but would be kind of handy at a Goodwill and get a bigger tax credit than I'd get in cash minus shipping, minus ebay fees, and minus paypal fees, both of which factor in shipping as part of the paypal and ebay fees, minus lost value for no rumble. I thought it'd be a win win, a Goodwill shopper can save on shipping, I get a tax credit and coupon, and Goodwill would get something that can benefit tier employees, most of which are job trainees who are hard to hire in the real world, like me. Now I understand most Goodwills don't test electronics, especially something like an N64 steering wheel, which needs an N64 and its proper hookups and a racing game for the N64, none of which was donated with it, so to increase its value, told them its condition and told them that everything except the rumble works, hoping they'd get more value for it if they knew it was basically functional than as a "try your luck" as-is applicance. Then I got surprised, the donation specialist said "No we don't want it. We won't give a tax credit, we won't give you a coupon." And apparently no, I couldn't have it back either. Is it just me, or is this goodwill too picky? They'd be willing to sell it as an as-is take your chances product, but when it mostly work for enough people, the one flaw makes them reject it. Just a little reader poll. If you were a Goodwill donation specialist, would you reject a mostly working N64 steering wheel, whose only flaw is no built in rumble? if anything, wouldn't you just take it as a "take your chances" item? Also if you're potentially in the market for a N64 racing wheel, what's more attractive, one that the last owner said worked completely except for the rumble, or a completely untested one? I suspect the donation specialist wanted to reject it so that he can take it home for his N64 for nothing and not have it on the sales floor being taken. I called the regional Goodwill headquarters, and they said that that complete rejection was out of order for the donation specialist. The next time I donated, something, namely a "mostly non-working" laser disc player (meaning it plays about 1 out of 50 ejects inward.) I asked if I knew the condition and it wasn't perfect, (it was only "occasionally working") yet is valuable as rare parts that can be used by a repairman, I had to ask it they will sell them as a repairman's delight, which contains parts that are no longer made, most of them completely working, and they said yes. If you're interested in that laser disc player, It's currently at the Akron, Ohio Goodwill outlet store (If regular Goodwill is retail, this is Godwilll's big bargain store) on Arlington Road. if you know where that is and want some used laser discs parts to scavenge or to repair and either use or resell,, go there and look for it, and maybe buy it.. And too many people's idea of recycling is scrapping. You know, nowhere in Cleveland could I find a scavenger wiling to pay for a mostly working laser disc value at significantly more than the "scrap metal value" of it's components. Considering the parts are no longer made, I thought it'd be more valuable as parts. Most recyclers are just "Weigh and Pay". They'd melt a rare gold coin with lots a of artistic, historic, and craft value, just to get gold bullion out of it. They think that any item is only worth the sum of their chemical components. They don't consider other market values. They don't consider the value of a craftly order of a piece. With replacement parts for older electronics being rarer, we need a valuable scavenger finder service that is local to various places, because shipping them whole is a waste of money if it's going to be taken apart anyway , and if you're not a repairman, you have no idea what to call the parts or how to diagnose to see what exact part is or isn't working. They buy parts higher than what a "weigher and payer" would pay, and actual old working parts can be used. I'd be willing to have someone buy non-working electronics in bulk (the inner parts in bulk, but ony one LD player), and preserve the parts, even if it didn't pay more than a "weigher and payer". I know Laser Disc players are more valuable as parts than scrap melt. Every recycler in my area saw no value in that and wouldn't pay me more, and would not promise to use the parts to fill a low-supply market. None of the repairmen locally buy parts. So a lot of the cost gets eaten up in shipping, money that can save the scavenger more when buying and pay the donor more when selling. Maybe Atari Age should have a directory of non-working part buyers and repairmen (and repairwomen, to not be sexist) for various Atari and other brand systems. A search by zip directory would be nice.

Remember when consoles were single game-pieces of plastic and circuits. Then Fairchild came up wiht the removable ROM? Maybe since there are MANY requests fr MANY different things to do with MANY different pre-Crash , Atari JAguar, and other similar systems, than maybe there should be a "joystick system" Have 8 buttons like a modern fight stick,(because Jaugar is technically an Atari system and you need something for the pro controller .) ) mapped "index-to-index" by default, but could have their button functions somehow changed, for right handed Tutankham and left handed Front Line, and 2 keypad controllers, one on each side, ( I don't know what to do about 5 different size overlays, INTV, 5200, CV standard, CV Super action, and Jaguar, and that doesn't count an Emerson Arcadia 2001 which has no place to detach or attach a joystick. I guess Edladdn could have professional overlays printed for his joystick system so you save the real overlays as collectables, or make the custom sized/spaced images printable, available on a blank paper overlay template. ) and in the center, you can anything a retroplayer would want, paddles for 5200 Super Breakout and Kaboom, spinner for Tempset 2000 in Jaugar, A choice of any to all 3 of digital fight stick, or an analog stick, whihc on some games makes sense if ithey center, and on others make more sense if hthe DON'T center. Wico made a variably-centrering analog joystick. Add a trackball because genuine 2600 and 5200 trackballs are hard to find, and would work for 7800 Centipede TB. Now paying for all this for one system would be a ridiculous price. I know a way to make the pain easier, spread it over multiple systems, just change the tail on each system with a 35 pin connector where each pin represents a single function, and the Joystick is naked, just like a modern Nintendo Switch is Naked, until you either pay to download a game or buy a cartridge, clothe it with the tail of whatever connector you want to hook it up to. What's more ridiculous, pay $200 each generation for a new fight stick for each generation, or paying $20-30 to add a new tail for basically the same stick in the same physical form, but a different electronic encoding form? If you start out one-pin-is-one-function, then you just wire it into a PCB, like a Playstation 1 Dual Shock 1, then you can work with lots of systems, because PS1 is probably the best "post-crash system" to deal with is because a) there are already existing adapters which go from PS1 to MANY different console, both before it and after, even 2 of today's consoles directly and the switch indirectly by chaining 2 adapters and b) has all the controls used in modern consoles (Have console controls really changed much since the PS1 Dual Shock 1? I can't tell the difference between an Xbox 360 and an Xbox One in terms of significant form OR lost functionalty, or an Original Xbox controller in terms of Functionality, even the form is WAY different.) This would be the prefect Swiss army knife of PS/Xbox controllers. (NIntendo controllers are another issue entirely) The would be in vertical sloped slabs, where the buttons are horizontally symmetric, like a paw formation With the middle and Ring finger being slightly forward of the index and ring, and you hand is cocked right in that formation with either hand. Or you can make it a twin stick controller. Then the controller can have one digital stick, one analog stick, 2 digital sticks, 2 analog sticks, one of each, and so you can operate every control without moving your hands off one part of the joystick to reach another, a separate shaft with finger buttons, for index, middle, ring, and pinky fingers, and either a digital hat switch, or an analog thumbstick by the thumb. You can control 8 axes and 8 buttons with this set up, and don't need any other control and can have your hand on ANY and ALL of them at once. The vertical slabs make it so you don't need 2 sets of fight stick buttons, just one that is horizontally symmetrical in a frown formation. For Qbert and Frogger, an "always on" button with a self centering joystick would be cool, so you just flick and go, just like the arcade. (By the way for QBert, you need a 45 degreee rotator. The digital porion of the joysticks can have 4/8 way gates, like Edladdin already has, The final thing that is needed is an Intellivision 16-way, one-intensity-plus-neutral Joystick. I don't know how to do this especially considering the INTV joystick code is just that, a code. which means N+NE does not equal NNE, sort of like how N + E in digital sticks equals NE. Someone is working on the code for a Genesis 8-way stick conversion. Maybe one can have an Analog simulation with a decent dead zone and an instant 100% actuation once it crosses the dead zone, and slice it into 16 pie pieces, instead of X and Y, then you can do it with an analog stick. That's how the Playstation 2, Xbox, and Game Cube, use a 16-way on their machines. The idea is you buy what you want, sort of like you buy the games you want, and reuse the things that can be reused. That would be the best value.

Let's analyze why I thought Omega was referring to a SMS stick as a left handed stick. Here's the quote again. The last sentence is unclear: "Buttons for the left hand, joystick for the right hand" Is that Omega's description of what a left-handed stick is? Or is that a description of his preferred stick? Is the term "left handed sticks" described like the video game industry would describe it today, i.e. Atari 2600 default being left handed, or like it was pre-crash? I said even pre-crash right handed is a matter on which control the game designer wants to put the "good" hand on. Rapid fire games tend to put the fire buttons on the right. Joystick Gymnastic games tend to put the joystick on the right. If I can pull of E Honda's SF IV Orichi Throw or the Sumo Smash with the left hand, my hundred hand slaps would be better if it were left-stick. I'm having trouble rapid firing with left buttons on my middle finger. for the medium Super Slap. (I was sorely tempted to make an WWII-era racist comment here. But I don't know Atariage's policy on WWII-era Japanese slurs. When my dad first saw the game, that's what HE called it.)

I may have gotten confused, I thought the response was in regards to the Sega Master System stick, and the Atari-handled SMS stick. I was referring to the SMS stick being called left handed. But am I right about nowadays, an Atari 2600 joystick would be considered Left handed by any system or game maker of today, especially Capcom, and other fighting game manufacturers, UNLESS they SPECIFICALLY have pre-crash history..

Then you've must have played most of your games after the NES is popular. 2600 joysticks were right handed, Odyssey 2 joysticks were right handed, Tthe Astrocade, Arcadia 2001, and Atari 5200 \were truly ambidextrousd, and the Intellivision, Colecovision, and Atari 7800 were all "practically ambidextrous", meaning that the joystick could be held in either hand, but has a distinct left and right button, where if they aren't mirroed, and you don't have the option to filp buttons, were usually skewed towards right or left handers, depending on how you feel about whether the thumb or index button is a better presser of buttons. (in the position you hold INTV, Colecxo, and 7800 contrllers, I could make a case for either. I've had thumbs tire fro rapid firing, and I've had index fingers tire from rapid firing. The only pre-crash system that was left handed was Vectrex. The problem with the Sega Master System joystick was that games were originaly thought of as left handed, and when transferred to a right handed controls, they mapped "left-to-left", so game like Tutankham would play right. About 90% of the Master System games had a rapid fire index, or a pressed-more-often index button. which, when mapped left-to-left, your middle finger does the rapid firing which is more tiring. The Beshu Master System Joystick mapped it Index-to-index, so most Master system games would work right, but if there were a game like Tutankham, the buttons would be backwards, like on the Turbo Grafx Beeshu stick and Side Arms or Pac-Land. Luckily I have One Sega SMS joystick, and one Beeshu SMS joystick, as well as one Beeshu TG16 Stick and One NEC Turbo Stick. I never heard the modern style be called right handed until the NES days. Get it straight. It's Atari Age, not Nintendo Age. There's no real ultrimate test of whether somethign is left or tright handed. Donkey Kong in the arcades was left handed for the sole reason that all the machines were converted Radarscope machines. And Radarscope was a shooter, so if it were a game where firing faster is more important than dodging, then it would make sense to call the button-right "right handed" but in Donkey Kong, it felt "left-handed", becuase your joystick hand was donig more gymnastics, compare to a jump button that didn't have to be rapid pressed like a shooter. Arcade owners liked it because, based on my observations in Ohio, most of the 50k+ scores I've personally witnessed were by people who cross their wrists. It made athe arcade owner happy for shorter games, and shorter games means more oppotunity to make money. And Donkey Kong was eating quarters like Pac-Man eats dots. Now that the NES style is more engrained, there is less of that, but at the time, did anyone else notice that, or is it just an Ohio thing? i remember an arcade in either Maple Heights or Cuyahoga Falls advertised Ambidextrous games, if a machine naturally wasn't ambidextrous, and if it made sense to, they dual fire modded their machines, or put ROMs in dual fire cabinets with mirrored buttons. Is this strictly one arcade owner in suburban Cleveland/Akron, or were there others like that? I've even seen a "leftie vs rightie" Street Fighter II, "crazy" edition, an unauthorized hack which overpowered everyone, and let you morph by pressing start. playing rightie felt more natural. I won 2 or 3 matches by using standard strategies, with the augmented powers, but the CPU started using powers by person 4, and first round I lost because I didn't know one character's nw powers I was facing. I overcame in round 2, and about halfway through round 3, the computer pulled a Shang Tsung, and change to a new character with new Augmented moves I've never seen. having NO idea what to expect, I lost.

Then I guess we're both in agreement, SNES Mario's L/R was wonky but required for later levels. Some people can beat Atari Karts without using L/R, but, assuming you don't rely on them 100% of the time, but use it selectively, then they are more handy for Atari Karts for beginners than than the SNES Mario Kart L/R. By the way, does anyone recognize any of the "characters" besides Bentley Bear if Atari Kart is is your only Jaguar Game? Are most of the other characters from Jaguar Titles? Atari hasn't been known for characters, Most games had either sticks, or square balls, or generic cowboys, or generic ships. I guess if you were going to make Atari amiibo-like characters, I'd name the Centipede form Centipede "Hector" for 2 reasons. One, Hector is a play on the metric prefix "hecto-" Greek for 100, and means 100 of the base unit stated. "Centi-" is Latin for 100, and mean 1 part per hundred of a base unit. Two, there is a legendary NPSL indoor soccer player called Hector Marinaro, who was a college goalie, and through out his career became more and more offensive, moving to defender, then midfielder, then forward, to the point of being the leading goal scorer in indoor soccer. In close games, he's usually chosen to be the sixth attacker, which is basically a goalie (the guy who's allowed to use their hands in the defensive goalie box) who goes out of the goalie box and helps on offense. (outside the goalie box, he's like any other player). And less like outdoor soccer where you almost never see a defender score, you have to be a "two way player" in indoor soccer because there's only 6 of you in a smaller area. For Clevelanders, he's the pre-Lebron James, wining the only 3 Cleveland championships between the 1964 Browns and the 2016 Cavs (oaky there's the 2016 Monsters, but that's minor league hockey, there is a higher level above them, the NHL. For indoor soccer there is no higher level, but there was an equal competitor league.) 1994 was the big party year. 1996 and 1999 were the other 2 championship years. The Crunch's 1994 championship clinching game went into 2 overtimes in front of the home crowd, after a being severely behind at halftime, and was considered in the top 10 all-time games played in Cleveland professionally by the Plain Dealer. And it would be kind of funny that a centipede with "a hundred legs" would be named after a Soccer player, a sport that, except for the goalie, is all legs.

I don't know if I said it couldn't be beaten without the spinout buttons, but I (as opposed to ONE) couldn't beat the first level without the "spinout" buttons. The spinout buttons helped me a lot. You just can't overuse them. But, when it was current, as a rental, I was able to beat 100 cc without the Drift in Super Mario Kart, except for the special cup, that's when i had to use the L/R. EDIT: I checked. I did say "you", meaning anyone. What I meant was I. Then again, it might be weird to beat 100 cc SNES Mario Kart without L/R. Most people would say THAT'S impossible.How do I know? I usually "hold" the contorller by putting it on the ground and do the index/middle finger press, and not use L/R unless I have to.

I noticed that too, but you've got to ONLY use it at the tightest turns to use it well. So to avoid spinning out you, press for a half second, let go, tap, tap, tap, repeat until straight. There no way you can win WITHOUT the drift at all. You just have to use it in right situations. I find that a good thing. Mario Kart in comparison abuses drifts with speed boosts and your only penalty is a little loss of control in the drift, whihc you can mitigate with practice. So much so that there's almost no such thing as a non-drift turn. You can win agains the computer up to the 100 cc level without drifts. Atari Karts: no chance without the L/R.

The wall of text was describing how if I were to buy a pair of Re-Pro Jag-Pros, that I'd keep one and sell the other one singly on Ebay. I was explaining I have only 2 Jaguar games, one of them is Atari Karts, which I bought for $1, and when I read the shoulder button help in Atari Karts, I found a $20 Jag pro controller once I bought it on ebay. Shortly after I bought it, Jag-Pros went up in price drastically. Since all you need is 2 really, since none of the 3+ player games really use the extra buttons, then I'll have an extra one. I'll jut hope re-pro Jag-pros start out high buying, almost as high as a genuine Atari brand, from people who don't know of this Re-pro program. But If I get $60 for it, I'll be happy.

One last thing, a way to add keypad presses to any of the XYZ and mode buttons, so Mouse Trap would work. Maybe a couple other games where you can use 1-4 keypad presses.