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tripletopper

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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. Do you have something that works for a while, and then suddenly stopped working. I found a Colecovision repairman on very limited things, basically I had to dictate to him what to do. He seems to be willing to help, but doesn't listen very well. I said I needed a Toslink out port repaired and he said nothing was wrong because he tested different ports. He saw a water stain on the Main CV circuit board, and I told him everything works except joyport one was taken off. (based on advice given by Adam's House when I was using the Atari Track N Field controller on the CV version of the Activision Decathlon. He told me to open it up an "pull the port" so I did, ripped it right out of its socket, implying it was a loose connection and can easily be reconnected. It was soldered on. They also just reprint lots of instruction books, some even in a VERY hard to read black and white, even though the originals were in color. I bought like $100 worth of instructions, and he just xeroxed them on a B/W and some were too dark to read. I didn't even get a discount in shipping by ordering all at once. If I knew they were reprints, I would have printed them myself. Out of business? Couldn't have happened to a nicer business.) I just needed the joyport fixed, and he told me to find an original Colecovision and chop the port from that. It never occurred to him that it might be a standardized part. So I did some web digging and found the part for $5 including shipping. I asked him if he could install it. And he saiid yes. But the water stain... First it's probably an isopropylhol stain from cleaning it. Second the circuit board works. The only thing that doesn't is joyport 1. Which got me thinking. What do I do with a non-working system. Is there someone around me who can repair it. If I find a machine elsewhere at a goodwill and it doesn't work, it would be kind of wasteful to sell it to a "weigh and Pay" recycler, who just melts it, when plenty of repairmen can use the parts that DO work. I would do it on Ebay, but, for example, a Laserdisc player I had was too heavy to make me any reasonable profit. The Price was $10 + $40 shipping, when Ebay and Paypal factor shipping price in their fees, I actually LOSE money by being responsible. So I gave it to goodwill, and told them its condition. Every recycler in my area was of the "Weigh and Pay" variety. There's probably local repairmen who can acquire parts for cheaper than a parts salesman by not scrapping it and buy low (but higher than the weigh and pay,) and either use them for their own projects or sell the part to another repairman. And they use their knowledge to make money by being able to accurately describe and test individual parts. Anyone within a 50 mile radius of 44273 who can buy non working video game machines for their parts value or can repair them if we want to keep them? Maybe this thread should be a worldwide directory of video game machine and accessory parts scavengers and repairmen who will either pay the bulk part value for your machine, or repair locally? I literally have no place to go without actually LOSING money doing the responsible thing. I checked Cleveland, Akron, and Medina County and no one buys parts. Until I find someone, the most responsible place I can take it to is a Goodwill. Ideally, the heavier the machine, the more profitable it is to drop off/pick up locally instead of paying the package carriers money and making a loss. Also buyers, dealing direct means you can pay more while making more. I tired Google, I tried Bing, I tired 3 county phone books. I don't know where to find one near Medina County, Ohio> By the we we make trips to Cuyahoga and summit counties too, so next time we go that way anyway, we'll make it a point to drop off.
  2. 1) Has anyone noticed thrift store finds seemed to have gone downhill in the wild ever since the popularity of Macklemore's "Thrift Shop" song, or is it just me? 2) Got a Goodwill donation story: I got from a friend who gave me third party Nintendo 64 steering wheel. When you factor in shipping the ebay and paypal fees are more than what you'l get in profit, so I gave it to goodwill. Add to the fact that I tested it and the built-in rumble didn't work, but everything else DID, it drops its ebay value even more, but would be kind of handy at a Goodwill and get a bigger tax credit than I'd get in cash minus shipping, minus ebay fees, and minus paypal fees, both of which factor in shipping as part of the paypal and ebay fees, minus lost value for no rumble. I thought it'd be a win win, a Goodwill shopper can save on shipping, I get a tax credit and coupon, and Goodwill would get something that can benefit tier employees, most of which are job trainees who are hard to hire in the real world, like me. Now I understand most Goodwills don't test electronics, especially something like an N64 steering wheel, which needs an N64 and its proper hookups and a racing game for the N64, none of which was donated with it, so to increase its value, told them its condition and told them that everything except the rumble works, hoping they'd get more value for it if they knew it was basically functional than as a "try your luck" as-is applicance. Then I got surprised, the donation specialist said "No we don't want it. We won't give a tax credit, we won't give you a coupon." And apparently no, I couldn't have it back either. Is it just me, or is this goodwill too picky? They'd be willing to sell it as an as-is take your chances product, but when it mostly work for enough people, the one flaw makes them reject it. Just a little reader poll. If you were a Goodwill donation specialist, would you reject a mostly working N64 steering wheel, whose only flaw is no built in rumble? if anything, wouldn't you just take it as a "take your chances" item? Also if you're potentially in the market for a N64 racing wheel, what's more attractive, one that the last owner said worked completely except for the rumble, or a completely untested one? I suspect the donation specialist wanted to reject it so that he can take it home for his N64 for nothing and not have it on the sales floor being taken. I called the regional Goodwill headquarters, and they said that that complete rejection was out of order for the donation specialist. The next time I donated, something, namely a "mostly non-working" laser disc player (meaning it plays about 1 out of 50 ejects inward.) I asked if I knew the condition and it wasn't perfect, (it was only "occasionally working") yet is valuable as rare parts that can be used by a repairman, I had to ask it they will sell them as a repairman's delight, which contains parts that are no longer made, most of them completely working, and they said yes. If you're interested in that laser disc player, It's currently at the Akron, Ohio Goodwill outlet store (If regular Goodwill is retail, this is Godwilll's big bargain store) on Arlington Road. if you know where that is and want some used laser discs parts to scavenge or to repair and either use or resell,, go there and look for it, and maybe buy it.. And too many people's idea of recycling is scrapping. You know, nowhere in Cleveland could I find a scavenger wiling to pay for a mostly working laser disc value at significantly more than the "scrap metal value" of it's components. Considering the parts are no longer made, I thought it'd be more valuable as parts. Most recyclers are just "Weigh and Pay". They'd melt a rare gold coin with lots a of artistic, historic, and craft value, just to get gold bullion out of it. They think that any item is only worth the sum of their chemical components. They don't consider other market values. They don't consider the value of a craftly order of a piece. With replacement parts for older electronics being rarer, we need a valuable scavenger finder service that is local to various places, because shipping them whole is a waste of money if it's going to be taken apart anyway , and if you're not a repairman, you have no idea what to call the parts or how to diagnose to see what exact part is or isn't working. They buy parts higher than what a "weigher and payer" would pay, and actual old working parts can be used. I'd be willing to have someone buy non-working electronics in bulk (the inner parts in bulk, but ony one LD player), and preserve the parts, even if it didn't pay more than a "weigher and payer". I know Laser Disc players are more valuable as parts than scrap melt. Every recycler in my area saw no value in that and wouldn't pay me more, and would not promise to use the parts to fill a low-supply market. None of the repairmen locally buy parts. So a lot of the cost gets eaten up in shipping, money that can save the scavenger more when buying and pay the donor more when selling. Maybe Atari Age should have a directory of non-working part buyers and repairmen (and repairwomen, to not be sexist) for various Atari and other brand systems. A search by zip directory would be nice.
  3. Remember when consoles were single game-pieces of plastic and circuits. Then Fairchild came up wiht the removable ROM? Maybe since there are MANY requests fr MANY different things to do with MANY different pre-Crash , Atari JAguar, and other similar systems, than maybe there should be a "joystick system" Have 8 buttons like a modern fight stick,(because Jaugar is technically an Atari system and you need something for the pro controller .) ) mapped "index-to-index" by default, but could have their button functions somehow changed, for right handed Tutankham and left handed Front Line, and 2 keypad controllers, one on each side, ( I don't know what to do about 5 different size overlays, INTV, 5200, CV standard, CV Super action, and Jaguar, and that doesn't count an Emerson Arcadia 2001 which has no place to detach or attach a joystick. I guess Edladdn could have professional overlays printed for his joystick system so you save the real overlays as collectables, or make the custom sized/spaced images printable, available on a blank paper overlay template. ) and in the center, you can anything a retroplayer would want, paddles for 5200 Super Breakout and Kaboom, spinner for Tempset 2000 in Jaugar, A choice of any to all 3 of digital fight stick, or an analog stick, whihc on some games makes sense if ithey center, and on others make more sense if hthe DON'T center. Wico made a variably-centrering analog joystick. Add a trackball because genuine 2600 and 5200 trackballs are hard to find, and would work for 7800 Centipede TB. Now paying for all this for one system would be a ridiculous price. I know a way to make the pain easier, spread it over multiple systems, just change the tail on each system with a 35 pin connector where each pin represents a single function, and the Joystick is naked, just like a modern Nintendo Switch is Naked, until you either pay to download a game or buy a cartridge, clothe it with the tail of whatever connector you want to hook it up to. What's more ridiculous, pay $200 each generation for a new fight stick for each generation, or paying $20-30 to add a new tail for basically the same stick in the same physical form, but a different electronic encoding form? If you start out one-pin-is-one-function, then you just wire it into a PCB, like a Playstation 1 Dual Shock 1, then you can work with lots of systems, because PS1 is probably the best "post-crash system" to deal with is because a) there are already existing adapters which go from PS1 to MANY different console, both before it and after, even 2 of today's consoles directly and the switch indirectly by chaining 2 adapters and b) has all the controls used in modern consoles (Have console controls really changed much since the PS1 Dual Shock 1? I can't tell the difference between an Xbox 360 and an Xbox One in terms of significant form OR lost functionalty, or an Original Xbox controller in terms of Functionality, even the form is WAY different.) This would be the prefect Swiss army knife of PS/Xbox controllers. (NIntendo controllers are another issue entirely) The would be in vertical sloped slabs, where the buttons are horizontally symmetric, like a paw formation With the middle and Ring finger being slightly forward of the index and ring, and you hand is cocked right in that formation with either hand. Or you can make it a twin stick controller. Then the controller can have one digital stick, one analog stick, 2 digital sticks, 2 analog sticks, one of each, and so you can operate every control without moving your hands off one part of the joystick to reach another, a separate shaft with finger buttons, for index, middle, ring, and pinky fingers, and either a digital hat switch, or an analog thumbstick by the thumb. You can control 8 axes and 8 buttons with this set up, and don't need any other control and can have your hand on ANY and ALL of them at once. The vertical slabs make it so you don't need 2 sets of fight stick buttons, just one that is horizontally symmetrical in a frown formation. For Qbert and Frogger, an "always on" button with a self centering joystick would be cool, so you just flick and go, just like the arcade. (By the way for QBert, you need a 45 degreee rotator. The digital porion of the joysticks can have 4/8 way gates, like Edladdin already has, The final thing that is needed is an Intellivision 16-way, one-intensity-plus-neutral Joystick. I don't know how to do this especially considering the INTV joystick code is just that, a code. which means N+NE does not equal NNE, sort of like how N + E in digital sticks equals NE. Someone is working on the code for a Genesis 8-way stick conversion. Maybe one can have an Analog simulation with a decent dead zone and an instant 100% actuation once it crosses the dead zone, and slice it into 16 pie pieces, instead of X and Y, then you can do it with an analog stick. That's how the Playstation 2, Xbox, and Game Cube, use a 16-way on their machines. The idea is you buy what you want, sort of like you buy the games you want, and reuse the things that can be reused. That would be the best value.
  4. Let's analyze why I thought Omega was referring to a SMS stick as a left handed stick. Here's the quote again. The last sentence is unclear: "Buttons for the left hand, joystick for the right hand" Is that Omega's description of what a left-handed stick is? Or is that a description of his preferred stick? Is the term "left handed sticks" described like the video game industry would describe it today, i.e. Atari 2600 default being left handed, or like it was pre-crash? I said even pre-crash right handed is a matter on which control the game designer wants to put the "good" hand on. Rapid fire games tend to put the fire buttons on the right. Joystick Gymnastic games tend to put the joystick on the right. If I can pull of E Honda's SF IV Orichi Throw or the Sumo Smash with the left hand, my hundred hand slaps would be better if it were left-stick. I'm having trouble rapid firing with left buttons on my middle finger. for the medium Super Slap. (I was sorely tempted to make an WWII-era racist comment here. But I don't know Atariage's policy on WWII-era Japanese slurs. When my dad first saw the game, that's what HE called it.)
  5. I may have gotten confused, I thought the response was in regards to the Sega Master System stick, and the Atari-handled SMS stick. I was referring to the SMS stick being called left handed. But am I right about nowadays, an Atari 2600 joystick would be considered Left handed by any system or game maker of today, especially Capcom, and other fighting game manufacturers, UNLESS they SPECIFICALLY have pre-crash history..
  6. Then you've must have played most of your games after the NES is popular. 2600 joysticks were right handed, Odyssey 2 joysticks were right handed, Tthe Astrocade, Arcadia 2001, and Atari 5200 \were truly ambidextrousd, and the Intellivision, Colecovision, and Atari 7800 were all "practically ambidextrous", meaning that the joystick could be held in either hand, but has a distinct left and right button, where if they aren't mirroed, and you don't have the option to filp buttons, were usually skewed towards right or left handers, depending on how you feel about whether the thumb or index button is a better presser of buttons. (in the position you hold INTV, Colecxo, and 7800 contrllers, I could make a case for either. I've had thumbs tire fro rapid firing, and I've had index fingers tire from rapid firing. The only pre-crash system that was left handed was Vectrex. The problem with the Sega Master System joystick was that games were originaly thought of as left handed, and when transferred to a right handed controls, they mapped "left-to-left", so game like Tutankham would play right. About 90% of the Master System games had a rapid fire index, or a pressed-more-often index button. which, when mapped left-to-left, your middle finger does the rapid firing which is more tiring. The Beshu Master System Joystick mapped it Index-to-index, so most Master system games would work right, but if there were a game like Tutankham, the buttons would be backwards, like on the Turbo Grafx Beeshu stick and Side Arms or Pac-Land. Luckily I have One Sega SMS joystick, and one Beeshu SMS joystick, as well as one Beeshu TG16 Stick and One NEC Turbo Stick. I never heard the modern style be called right handed until the NES days. Get it straight. It's Atari Age, not Nintendo Age. There's no real ultrimate test of whether somethign is left or tright handed. Donkey Kong in the arcades was left handed for the sole reason that all the machines were converted Radarscope machines. And Radarscope was a shooter, so if it were a game where firing faster is more important than dodging, then it would make sense to call the button-right "right handed" but in Donkey Kong, it felt "left-handed", becuase your joystick hand was donig more gymnastics, compare to a jump button that didn't have to be rapid pressed like a shooter. Arcade owners liked it because, based on my observations in Ohio, most of the 50k+ scores I've personally witnessed were by people who cross their wrists. It made athe arcade owner happy for shorter games, and shorter games means more oppotunity to make money. And Donkey Kong was eating quarters like Pac-Man eats dots. Now that the NES style is more engrained, there is less of that, but at the time, did anyone else notice that, or is it just an Ohio thing? i remember an arcade in either Maple Heights or Cuyahoga Falls advertised Ambidextrous games, if a machine naturally wasn't ambidextrous, and if it made sense to, they dual fire modded their machines, or put ROMs in dual fire cabinets with mirrored buttons. Is this strictly one arcade owner in suburban Cleveland/Akron, or were there others like that? I've even seen a "leftie vs rightie" Street Fighter II, "crazy" edition, an unauthorized hack which overpowered everyone, and let you morph by pressing start. playing rightie felt more natural. I won 2 or 3 matches by using standard strategies, with the augmented powers, but the CPU started using powers by person 4, and first round I lost because I didn't know one character's nw powers I was facing. I overcame in round 2, and about halfway through round 3, the computer pulled a Shang Tsung, and change to a new character with new Augmented moves I've never seen. having NO idea what to expect, I lost.
  7. Then I guess we're both in agreement, SNES Mario's L/R was wonky but required for later levels. Some people can beat Atari Karts without using L/R, but, assuming you don't rely on them 100% of the time, but use it selectively, then they are more handy for Atari Karts for beginners than than the SNES Mario Kart L/R. By the way, does anyone recognize any of the "characters" besides Bentley Bear if Atari Kart is is your only Jaguar Game? Are most of the other characters from Jaguar Titles? Atari hasn't been known for characters, Most games had either sticks, or square balls, or generic cowboys, or generic ships. I guess if you were going to make Atari amiibo-like characters, I'd name the Centipede form Centipede "Hector" for 2 reasons. One, Hector is a play on the metric prefix "hecto-" Greek for 100, and means 100 of the base unit stated. "Centi-" is Latin for 100, and mean 1 part per hundred of a base unit. Two, there is a legendary NPSL indoor soccer player called Hector Marinaro, who was a college goalie, and through out his career became more and more offensive, moving to defender, then midfielder, then forward, to the point of being the leading goal scorer in indoor soccer. In close games, he's usually chosen to be the sixth attacker, which is basically a goalie (the guy who's allowed to use their hands in the defensive goalie box) who goes out of the goalie box and helps on offense. (outside the goalie box, he's like any other player). And less like outdoor soccer where you almost never see a defender score, you have to be a "two way player" in indoor soccer because there's only 6 of you in a smaller area. For Clevelanders, he's the pre-Lebron James, wining the only 3 Cleveland championships between the 1964 Browns and the 2016 Cavs (oaky there's the 2016 Monsters, but that's minor league hockey, there is a higher level above them, the NHL. For indoor soccer there is no higher level, but there was an equal competitor league.) 1994 was the big party year. 1996 and 1999 were the other 2 championship years. The Crunch's 1994 championship clinching game went into 2 overtimes in front of the home crowd, after a being severely behind at halftime, and was considered in the top 10 all-time games played in Cleveland professionally by the Plain Dealer. And it would be kind of funny that a centipede with "a hundred legs" would be named after a Soccer player, a sport that, except for the goalie, is all legs.
  8. I don't know if I said it couldn't be beaten without the spinout buttons, but I (as opposed to ONE) couldn't beat the first level without the "spinout" buttons. The spinout buttons helped me a lot. You just can't overuse them. But, when it was current, as a rental, I was able to beat 100 cc without the Drift in Super Mario Kart, except for the special cup, that's when i had to use the L/R. EDIT: I checked. I did say "you", meaning anyone. What I meant was I. Then again, it might be weird to beat 100 cc SNES Mario Kart without L/R. Most people would say THAT'S impossible.How do I know? I usually "hold" the contorller by putting it on the ground and do the index/middle finger press, and not use L/R unless I have to.
  9. I noticed that too, but you've got to ONLY use it at the tightest turns to use it well. So to avoid spinning out you, press for a half second, let go, tap, tap, tap, repeat until straight. There no way you can win WITHOUT the drift at all. You just have to use it in right situations. I find that a good thing. Mario Kart in comparison abuses drifts with speed boosts and your only penalty is a little loss of control in the drift, whihc you can mitigate with practice. So much so that there's almost no such thing as a non-drift turn. You can win agains the computer up to the 100 cc level without drifts. Atari Karts: no chance without the L/R.
  10. The wall of text was describing how if I were to buy a pair of Re-Pro Jag-Pros, that I'd keep one and sell the other one singly on Ebay. I was explaining I have only 2 Jaguar games, one of them is Atari Karts, which I bought for $1, and when I read the shoulder button help in Atari Karts, I found a $20 Jag pro controller once I bought it on ebay. Shortly after I bought it, Jag-Pros went up in price drastically. Since all you need is 2 really, since none of the 3+ player games really use the extra buttons, then I'll have an extra one. I'll jut hope re-pro Jag-pros start out high buying, almost as high as a genuine Atari brand, from people who don't know of this Re-pro program. But If I get $60 for it, I'll be happy.
  11. One last thing, a way to add keypad presses to any of the XYZ and mode buttons, so Mouse Trap would work. Maybe a couple other games where you can use 1-4 keypad presses.
  12. By the way, I promoted this thing on Shoryuken.com as a way to get a fight stick to work with an Intellivision. Maybe you'l get more customers.
  13. I'll pay an extra amount, and it might sell more, if you have a Flashback switch on both the end that plugs into the Flashbsck-modded INTV 1, or an INTV Flashback in one way and an INTV 2 in the other way. There also needs to be a FB/2 switch on joystick end, so I don't have to buy an INTV 2 pad on Ebay. Especially if you can add that feature for cheaper than any external mods and the ebay price of finding an INTV 2 joystick on ebay. I bought 3 flashback pads, 2 for the joystick ports and one for fight stick modding, as well as 2 INTV1 console -> Flashback stick cables installed on my INTV 1. Have you considered what to do about INTV 1 owners, and INTV Flashback owners, and INTV 1 Flashback Modders in anticipation for the Fight Stick mod? Assuming my PS2-> Genesis adapter works with the INTV mod, everything else is good except the Flashback issue. If you don't make any special modifications to the circuit, which it may be too late to do, what else would I need to buy and plug in to get it working with 3 Flashback pads, and a Flashback-moded INTV 1? Consider that I sold my INTV 1 pads for Flashback pads, and I don't have my INTV 1 controllers anymore.
  14. Yes, but how many games support both 3+ players AND Jag Pro controllers? By the way, I don't have an ST, but I know if I want to play 2 Player Atari Karts, I can with a second Jag Pro. Based on my talk above, unless there's something I don't know, it'd be wiser to keep one of the 2 and sell the other right away as a singleton on Ebay. I am part collector, part player, part ebayer. probably about equal parts of each. I Iike having games, I like playing games, and like making money on the used game market. I will get what I need to get a good game going. I picked up so many Saturn Controllers for cheap that I can have a complete set of controllers for NHL Hockey, the only 12 player game I know of. (Of course we don't play that, but occassionally, I'm asked to bring Saturn Bomberman for a party.) But sometimes you have to pick and choose the right parts of the collection to keep. For exmaple at one time I had 4 DK Bongos. Then I realized the only 4 player portion of Bongo games was just a free-jam session. There was no actual game-part in Donkey Konga 1 and 2 4 players. It was kind of a waste to have 4 bongos, so I sold my "extra bongos only with box" on ebay. Then a friend had a wedding. So I made a statement. I had loose bongos, so I bought DK Jungle Beat in the big box but with no Bongos, for cheap, I separated the Bongo and the rest, and had this card. "One of you is loose bongos, the other is a bongo box with DK Jungle Beat, Individually you only had certain value, but put the 2 of you together, and you are more complete, useful, and valuable than the 2 of you separately combined individually. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Happy Wedding Day." A game collector and ebay hustler would understand the reference. I'm collecting because I know if I need emergency money, i can buy low at thrift stores and sell high at ebay. If I tried the game but didn't like and/or understand it, like Bust a Groove PS1 I tried it, couldn't get into it, so a game I bought for $1, I sold for $50. I tried it, and didn't like it. It also helps me stay social with my friends. If I find a valuable game that I don't like but someone else might like, i sell it to them for enough money to make it worth my while, but considerably less than the current going ebay rate. One friend was collecting Saturn RPGs without owning a Saturn, and I didn't know that. I assumed he wasn't interested, so I sold Dragon Force, (not much of an RPG/Strategy fan) which I found for $1 and sold for $150 on Ebay. Then he heard about it and caught me before I sold the other 2, so that's when I first made that deal, and I make similar deals with my other friends, hoping they reciprocate. Since I bought them for a dollar a piece, I sold them to him or $20 a piece. As for the then going ebay price on both, one was $50 the other was $80. Now I know to bring up my valuable thrift store/media store finds with my friends before selling them on ebay. And once I get enough bandwidth to do a twitch show, I'l give away some thrift store finds on the Twitch stream. The games I don't want or have doubles of I have posted on gametz.com user name "tripletopper" if you want to get with these before I start my twitch stream. (which may be a while based on my geography.) P..S. when you're a shut in and have no social life, you tend to blab on posts. I understand most people have jobs and families and friends they can frequently see. But I don't I do most of my socializing via web. I've just got way too much time on my hands. Outside of basic everyday conversations, I have no organic reason to talk to someone that would be innocent.
  15. P.s. Mods, please move topics from the similar topic into this one. I posted both and when I first voted, I forgot about my Sanyo BetaCord and dad buying Sears tapes, so I was trying to reset the poll. The old poll was erased. Also the other comments on the previous thread are valid here. Please merge them.
  16. Toopic moved to http://atariage.com/forums/topic/282719-store-brand-vs-name-brand-game-and-movie-media/ with appropriate poll. And mods, please merge the 2 similar sounding ptopics. My main quesiton is did more people avoid a non-Sears 2600 games because they had a Telegames, or did more people avoid Sears Telegames media because they had a non-Sears 2600? That's why Sears later got into the general credit card business by being the main investor in Discover Card, because store cards were starting to become passe.
  17. The interesting trend in the 70s was store-branded video games. There were store branded everything in the 70s. I posed this question asking about "linear media" on lddb.com, a laser disc website, and I knew about the Sears Beta, and later found out about the JCPenney VHS, and was wondering if there was a store brand Laser Disc or Selectavision (a format often confused with Laser Disc, but different). I used video game store brands like Sears Telegames, Sears Super Telegames, Tandy Vision, and Montgomery Ward Game System, which were respectively, Atari 2600, Intellivision, Intellivision, and Bally as examples. I don't know the logic behind it. I assume it was to keep store brand loyalty. But I assume it can backfire. If Sears was talking about the Telegames and Super Telegames, and didn't have an Atari 260 and Intellivision section, if you were from Mars, you'd say the were promoting their own brand. Kind of like what Aldi does with most of their food products. Was their marketing not to mention the brand name, and use only the store name? I understand they wanted store loyalty, but did they keep more sales they'd lose to other stores with store brands, or did they lose more sales from brand name people by browsing and seeing only store brand stuff? I'm trying to figure out whether it was a net positive to have store branding or a net negative. If you've owned any of these system during their prime, whether you were a kid, a parent, or a childless grownup at the time: Atari 2600, Intellivision, Bally Astrocade, Sears Telegames, Sears Super Telegames, Tandyvision, Montgomery Ward Game System, the question is "Have you dabbled or stayed loyal, ether out of ignorance of their intercompatibility or out of pride?" By the way, I voted no interactive media, since my first was a Colecovision, which had no store brand problems, and a Sanyo BetaCord (a name brand), and dad didn't avoid Sears for Beta tapes. I think they were branded as Sears Beta brand tapes, which he has bought before. I see them downstairs, so No for avoiding Sears Brand Beta tapes.
  18. I know a lowball trader against me when I hear one. Tell you what, I'll do one of 2 things. I'll either A) buy the 2 JagPros, sell one, hope the price on ebay is more than half the cost of 2, and make a little profit and I keep US jack Bros, or B) wait a few months and hope the repros are cheaper per joystick than a genuine Atari one, and pay less than $60 for a re-pro Jap Pro. But if you buy right away, right away is the time to sell, if you're early enough. Then wait until the Re-Pros are done, then sell again when the Re-Pros are no longer offered, unless the Re-pro maker has enough in stock when the molds are alrready made where the molds aren't destryoed and can just call up a few hundred Jag Pros and have stock and still make a profit. and I KNOW that the US version of Jack Bros is the Holy Grail of Virtual Boy. I found it at a Village Discount Outlet in the 90s, a local version of Goodwill in Akron. The Virtual Boy itself was $5, so I bought it, then opened up the tape and saw Jack Bros and a few other games and thought :$ Researching the last 30 days on Ebay, Jack Bros US Version loose sold anywhere from $100 complete (a lowbal buy it now. If you had a spare $100 that would have been a good pickup) and typical loose values of $350-450, complete at $600, and factory sealed at over $1000. Unless you're willing to offer more than one Re-PRo Jag Pro, I'd say, find some other sucker. I may be born on a Thursday , but it wasn't LAST Thursday. That's when you can find finds-and-a-half at thrift stores. Now most of what I see is PS2 sports games. Thank you Macklemore for popularizing goodwill enough where even more people know about the game deals at Goodwill. After I head that song, good game deals at Goodwill are harder and harder to find. I hope enough johnny come latelys give up on thrift stores once Macklemore becomes out of vogue. Thankfully he was mainly singing about deals on clothing, and not a word about vintage video games.
  19. I already have one Atari Brnad Jag pro I picked up for $40 before the price explosion on ebay. The minimum I can buy in this offer is 2. If I take advantage of it, I'll have 3 controllers. I just want to check my facts on this. Is having a third Jaguar Pro controller kind of like being Blinky the Fish with HIS third eye, or Matt Sydel with HIS third eye? In other words, is there any practical use for a 3rd Jag-Pro controller? Should I assume there are 3+ player games that use the Team Tap? If I remember right, there are 2 games that use it, White Men Can't Jump and NBA Jam. Is that correct? Next question, do ANY of those games have any benefits with the Jag-Pro when playing 3+ players? If NBA Jam is anything like the arcade, then it only uses 3 buttons. I could see an argument for having Turbo on either L or R. But will the options let you do that? As for white men Can't Jump, does it a) use more than 3 buttons, and b) have an argument for putting one of the buttons on the shoulder? If the answer to all of these is No, then it makes sense the sell one of my 2 Re-Pro Jag-Pros as a single on ebay. But if any answer is yes, then more questions pop up like, like "is the Jaguar version of NBA Jam significantly better than the Genesis, SNES, Sega CD, 32X, Saturn, Playstation 1 versions of the similar game?", and " If I find White Men Can't Jump at a Goodwill is both a good enough game and Jag-Pro essential enough, where I need 4 Jag Pro pads, or would 2 standard Jag controllers do for players 3 and 4, and would be worth inviting 2-3 guests to play?" The only reason I'm remotely curious about Jag-Pro Pads is because I found a copy of Atari Karts for a dollar at a non-charity used media store, who unfortunately went out of business when I first got my 360. Considering my only other game is the pack-in game (I believe it was Cybermorph) I have paltry collection of 2 Jaguar Games. I own more for the Virtual Boy including a US copy of Jack Bros. And the Virtual boy was a thrift store find. I know Tempest 2000 is the number one exclusive on the Jaguar, and a good enough reason to invest in 1 (or is there a 2 player mode) rotary controllers. But is Atari Karts alone a good enough reason to buy a second Jag-Pro controller for 2 player games, and if not are there other reasons to own 2 Jag Pro controllers I can look forward to in the future, if I'm lucky to find one at a thrift store or cheap on ebay?
  20. Well the internet thing I was going to buy turned out to be a rip-off. Limited high-speed data and automatic drop-down to 3x dial-up speed is not good. Also a second thing I was buying is currently a "not yet" status, so if the Jag-Pro Re-Pro controllers came out in September, I can afford to buy a pair. I'm already on the reserve list.
  21. Planning on getting a pair of Jaguar Re-produciton Pro Controllers. Already got one genuine one. It looks like the extra buttons come in handy for more games than advertised. The problem is I will have 3 Pro controllers. If I'm right, the only 2 games that are more than 2 players are NBA Jam and White Men Can't Jump. Do either of THOSE games use a Jag Pro Pad, (Including any of the keypad buttons that might be mapped to the L,R,X,Y. and Z). If it's similar to the arcade, I know NBA Jam is a 3-button game, Jump/Block/Shoot, Pass/Steal, and Turbo. Does WMCJ use any of the extra buttons? If No, then I'm selling one re-pro Jag Pro controller because I must buy 2 in one pack.
  22. I've got a limited budget. I'm on Social Security Disability, so a $70 cellular internet device and a $60 cell phone ties up my money until October 1st. I just hope they don't sell out by then. If I had a job, then I'd have $125 reserved for it. But My internet speed is 1.5 Mb/s in 400 kb/s out, an inexcusable amount of speed these days. I need an upgrade.
  23. I'll pay $125 for 2 on October 3rd. I got some important things to buy soon, like faster internet, and a smartphone, and I don't know if the joysticks will arrive in September, or if they'll come in October.. PLase tell me they are comng in October and not in September.
  24. I remember this game was originally called" Out of This World." I guess they had to change the name to "Another World" because there was a Magnavox Odyssey 2 game called "Out of This World". But it's strange because it was called "Out of This World" in the US because "Another World" was taken by a soap opera in the US. You can't call it "Another World" because of the Soap Opera. You can't call it "Out of This World" because of the Odyssey 2 game. What do you call it?
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