tripletopper

I wasn't suggesting a Neo Geo DB15 style, I was suggesting wiring it to one wire=one control can be wired into the actuators of a dismantled controller. I'm not planning to plug it into the 5200 directly. The purpose of it was to turn my PS2-style fight stick into a one wire=one function mode, which I can use a telephone operator style adapter which can change the button and joystick functions. Also I'm using the terminal block style where each wire can be hooked up to a DB 25 and adjusted individually.

There's one other issue. (By the way, came on here by clicking link from the Jaguar Re-pro Jag Pro controllers.) I'll repost relevant question in this forum: a) Will they universally work with every Jaguar controller, so I can hook it up to a naked original PCB for a fight stick as well as a Jag Pad and Jag Pro Pad. b)I assume it will work in a digital manner actuating 100% cardinal, 100% X + 100% Y diagonal, or neutral, so it would be good for fight sticks. c) If that’s the case, then a few seemingly digital games will have problems when using diagonals. So using a technology used in hitboxes, maybe there should be an optional external Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber, so that if a game gives errors when you press a diagonal, just plug this in and it will only lock in a perpendicular cardinal when the original cardinal is released. So this locks out everything except Neutral and one cardinal at a time. This device can be independent and have a 5200-> 5200 adapter, so it can be used with Competition Pro Joysticks too which suffer from this problem in like 4 games or less, Popeye, Mountain King, Bounty Bob Strikes Back, and maybe one other game. This technology was originally used to lock out W+E and N+S combinations, whihc was required for hitboxes to be legal, otherwise, dual blocking gave hitboxes an advantage. Test your Jaguar-> 5200 adapter on Popeye and see if pressing diagonal gives you any trouble.

1) I earlier put in an order for 2 Jag Pro Re-Pros. Confriming the oder. Will pay in August $120 for 2 controllers + $5 shipping to US. 2) About your 5200 adapters… a) Will they universally work with every Jaguar controller, so I can hook it up to a naked originnal PCB for a fight stick as well as a pad. b)I assume it will work in a digital manner actuating 100% cardinal, 100% X + 100% Y diagonal, or neutral, so it would be good for fight sticks. c) If that’s the case, then a few seemingly digital games will have problems when using diagonals. So using a technology used in hitboxes, maybe there should be an optional external Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber, so that if a game gives errors when you press a diagonal, just plug this in and it will only lock in a perpendicular cardinal when the original cardinal is released. So this locks out everything except Neutral and one cardinal at a time. This device can be independent and have a 5200-> 5200 adapter, so it can be used with Competition Pro Joysticks too which suffer from this problem in like 4 games or less, Popeye, Mountain King, Bounty Bob Strikes Back, and maybe one other game. This technology was originally used to lock out W+E and N+S combinations, which gave hitboxes an advantage. Test your Jaguar-> 5200 adapter on Popeye and see if pressing diagonal gives you any trouble. 3) Why isn’t your 2600 adapter a 7800 adapter with 2 button mode?

Looking at the pictures, the only games where it's a "requirement" to print a overlay are the RealSports Baseball, Soccer, Tennis, Space Shuttle, and Star Raiders (and maybe Countermeasure, for whatever L, E, and O is. I guess that the trinary code for the stopping of the nuclear bomb if I remember the game right, if it's based on an Atari 800 bootleg I remember playing.)

Defender doesn't use a keypad button as "hyperspace" ?!?!!? How do you hyperspace in the 5200 Defender? Oh wait, the small print below the 2 player row. Any keypad button! It looks like another worthless keypad overlay, but only if they print the numbers on the select screen. I'll click the link and see if there are any "essential" ones ...

My Competition Pro worked fine, until I disassembled my genuine 5200 sticks to clean the buttons. I think I'm going to get a Best Elec Gold Dot mod for 2 controllers and sure the third controller as a pad hack for a fight stick, like the Competition Pro itself. I guess if you get a Best Elec job, you'll get proper tuning of potemtiometers, and should hook up to a fight stick/ Comp Pro. Also I HEARD the 2 categories of games that fail with the Competition Pro fall into 2 categories, One is analog games, for which it's just not the proper tool for the job. The other, and I think Bounty Bob would considered one, is "4-Way games" I think there might be lazy coders wo assume you're always going to use a stock 5200 controller, and make certain assumptions, like if ABS (x) => 80% then it follows ABS(Y)<= 60% AMking the sensitivity %80+ makes it so diagonals are a dead zone. If saves memory and labor to say if X>80% and ignore Y, than it is to say If X>80% AND Y<60%, plus adding the code for the diagonal you want to lock out. I think Popeye is a 4-way game, you're supposed to press up/down to walk the steps, not a diagonal. Mojuntain King is like that too. But the problem is that X and Y are are always either +-100% or 0% X=100% and Y=100% is not possible with a stock 520 stick, but is possible with the Pro. If my theory is correct, there are 2 ways to prevent this. One is putting a physical limiter on the Competition Pro, like a 4/8 way switch gate. The other is a device in the vein of a device used for Hitboxes to be legal in a fighting game. There is a cheat where you can press left and right simultaneously on a hitbox. It was eventually considered cheating, so in order to use it, they developed a Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Direction Scrubber where the circuit takes over if you press left and right or up ad down at the same time. Maybe a toggleable Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber attached to the Competition Pro, and might as well while you're adding something, adding a toggleable button swapper so that a lefty can use that controller better.

Speaking of Overlays when Mattel owned Intellivision, they had overlays for EVERY Game. Even if the game didn't use a 16 way pad and just used a single action button function (and any will do) like Sharp Shot aka Pow they printed an Overlay. Coleco was the smart ones, they literally ONLY put an overelay on any game where the keypad function wasn't self evident, (meaning anything more than selecting numbers for options) That philosophy continues with Coleco on INTV, with the only Coleco INTV game that has an official overlay being Mouse Trap. I think Atari 5200 was in the superficial camp, with an overlay made for Pac-Man. For collectors it's desirable, but for those ludists, ("ludo" being either a Greek or Latin word-part meaning "game"), meaning those who actually just want to play the game from a gameplay standpoint, if you don't have the original, why even prit one if it's not important? The Pac-Man overlay I have just highlights just one button, (I forget which, but..) yet the game tells you on the screen what button you need to prees anyway. Is there a place with jpeg scans of Atari 5200 overlays? I'm not going towaste ink and paper on something not important to gameplay, but for the ones that are, those would be highly appreciated. And a list of games where the keypad overlay is ludistically important. I think I have more Emerson Arcadia 2001 overlays than I do 5200 overlays. Arcadia is more likely to be sold complete than 5200, just because it's WAY less popular, and are less prone to loss and abuse by 5-year-olds. By the way, anyone one of the millipercent of the video game consumer pool in the 1980s who actually bought an Emerson Arcadia 2001 on day 1 and (though I doubt it, becuase I never heard of campouts for gaming consoles until 9/9/99 (the only launch date referred to by date by most video game fans when asked to refer to an important date in video game launch history) ) maybe even camped out in line for one? if someone here did, Atari Age is probably best place to find them. Coleco's policy was not to include them unless people in test groups would complain without the overlays (Blackjack/Poker, Mouse Trap, Super Action Baseball, Football (American), and Football (Soccer).) But they always had overlays for Super Action-enhanced games like Star Trek and Spy Hunter, and -required games, like Front Line. I guess there were too many buttons to keep straight. Mattel included them in even the most unnecessary of games, but consoles weren't licensed until the NES days so third parties did what made most sense with them. What was Atari's Policy?

1) I don't think Columns 3 uses a 6-button controller. I think it is 3 button. But I got the instructions, I'll check 2) Is "Hyperdunk" the Japanese name for "Double Dribble: The Playoff Edition", or is that a differrent game? If it's the same game, THAT doesn't use a 6 button if I remember right. 3) Bomberman is a 4 payer game and I believe doesn't use a 6-button. By the way, when I say "use the 6 button", I mean is the game somehow handicapped if you use a 3-button controller, like Street Fighter. I know 99 percent of the games can use either a 3- or 6- and quite a few of those just use the 3 buttons so it doesn't really matter, and the ones optimized for 6-button has a compromise 3-button control scheme. I think no game REQUIRES a 6-button ABSOLUTELY, but quite a few games are easier or more intuitive with a 6-button. My question is mainly I have one extra Genesis pad, and I'm seeing if any game requires 3 or more 3-button pads (I think Sega CD Wheel of Fortune is one of them), that won't function with a 6-, and what 5+ player games require a fifth or more 6-buttons pad to not be handicapped. I'm trying to decide whether to sell a 3- or 6- button pad on ebay. I assume you mean the only 5+ player game that would be "Fully Functional" with as many 6-button pads as players is International Superstar Soccer Deluxe (I assume it's an American release because "soccer" is uniquely an American name for that sport. When the World League of American Football was popular in Germany they called "football" -> "Soker-Fussball" and American football "Amerikanische-Fussball" both pronounced foosball, hence why in Germany, Foozball is called "Tischfussball"- or Table Football, so it's either an American or German (either during or after WLAF) release with the name Soccer. Everywhere else it's called Football. Even Coleco release Super Action Football in both Europe and the US. US got American, and Europe got Soccer, and never did they meet unless you import/export.) So the only reason why I'd want a fifth 6-button controller of beyond is ISSD above? Is that a US release? Is that a rare or common game? Is the game a game worth playing if you have 8 soccer-football fans who were kids to teens during the Genesis era? On the flip side, does any game require more than 3 3-button controllers and won't work with a 6-button? Or requires multiple players holding down MODE for it to work? You said there is no 5+ player games that require mulitple 3-button controllers or everyone holding down mode. What about 4 player games? And Dragonstomper, knowing EA Games for the Genesis, all required the 4-Way Play, or the 4-Way Play-compatible Team Player 2 in Extra mode. And 4-Way play has a maximum of 4 players. In other words, If you have 4 6-button controllers, that's all you really need to avoid multiple players being handicapped. I have 5 or 6 pads and one Ascii 6 button fight stick.

Seeing a and not a makes me think this is not very practical in gameplay. But if it really is practical, there's YouTube, and there's Twitch Film yourself playing a game with a Larry the Cable Guy Redneck Joystick centerer. Then film yourself making the joystick attachment, and you can get lots of Youtube hits and make commercial money. But even if it is, you don't want to be fighting centering resistance in Kaboom. Tires you out too much. If you don't believe me, try plying Warlords (either Arcade or 2600) on the Xbox One version of Atari Flashback Collection* with "absolute paddle setting", the only way you can "dial-a-position" If the thumbpad didn't have the auto center and the game wasn't high ping in local mode, it might actually be playable. Otherwise you'll have to make a performance compromise somewhere by either using relative controls or fighting centering resistance. Literally the only way I'l play it is online, because that's the only way to play online possible. So, because of games where analog position is important, this isn't a "Swiss Army Knife" solution. You have to unplug it for Kaboom and Super Breakout. *= (s, I forget which volume has Warlords. They should have organized it in either categories, putting like games together, like all paddle games, or organized by year, older on one disc, newer on another, or pure alphabetical, or just offered it as one download-only collection where you can buy games individually or save by paying for the whole 80-100 pack at once. Maybe worth it becuase it's online... if I can find someone who IS online with my particular game. Unfortunately, unlike Sega Genesis collection, you can't accept an invitation for any of my online games passively while playing one game, waiting.)

My other: There is no "Swiss army knife" solution. Best-electronics-ca.com only does Gold Dot solutions if you provide working either 5200 controllers, or maybe scratched up button pads with the analog potentiometers working and the orginal cases in good shape. That's the conditon of my 5200 controllers, scratched up buttons. If those don't matter if they need replacing, or they CAN replace, I'm good. Those are good for analog games. The Competition Pro might be best for one button games, assuming you're a right-stick player and not a left-stick player, because button 2 is out of reach. If someone made a button swapping dongle, then the Competition Pro for left-stick people would be good on either 1-button games or games where the second button is an auxiliary feature. There's 2 classes of games I'd use the Masterplay Clone on. One is games like Defender where, (I assume, since I haven't played it with my controls broke) you need a third button for hyperspace, which is the keypad, but I'm working on getting to get my custom omni-system stick to accept keypad presses for action buttons on my 8-button ambidextrous fight stick. Also qualified are games where you have to use 2 buttons frequently and is good as a digital game. The other class are certain 4 way games like Popeye and Mountain King, which, even though they are digitial, have runtime errors that were not caught in the developement. I believe that's because there's a weird programming trick where if the joystick is actuate 80% in one direction or more, it can't actuate beyond 60% in a perpendicular direction, due to the circular restrictor on the analog stick. This part is important, because I had an Apple IIe, and those joysticks were analog and had a square restrictor, where if an axis's maximum is 100%, then because x^2+y^2=r^2 X can equal 100%, and y can equal 100%, using that formula r^2=200%, which when you square root, r=141%, greater than the radius of a circular restrictor. The Competiiton Pro are activated in a binary way, either x=100% or -100% or y=100% or -100% and has a ground state of whatever the attached 5200 was set at. but activating a diagonal made both x and y have absolute values of 100%. Some people made games that were intended to be 4-way by setting the center dead zone so big that only obvious cardninals would be recognized and diagonals would be dead. And codes correctly assumed if X is activated, the it was physically impossible for y it be activated and vice versa. But the Competition Pro threw out that assumption, and that came after Popeye (and maybe Mountain King). So the lazy code which may have saved a few bits made it so the game has glitches when x and y are both beyond their activation threshold. If it's (I'm probably sure the 5200 wasn't using a human-readable "laundry list" language, but let's assume it is for human purposes and for the purposes of this discussion) intended to say in human terms "if pressed right in a 4-way sense" you'd have code like "If X>80%...." takes up a lot less bits than "If X>80% AND ABS(Y)<60%..." and because they assumed they were using default 5200 controllers, the "and ABS(Y)<60% is assumed and unnecesary. There's 3 solutions I can see to playing those games, one is making a complex circuit which limits diagonal actuations to 70% of cardinals, but keeps cardinals at 100%. Another is in the vein of a Simultaneous Opposite Cardinal Directon Scrubbers, make Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubbers, where If you're at +100% as x, it will asuume the same input until EITHER X AND Y is centered, OR ALL 3 OF x ceases to be in the original direction AND x goes in the opposite direction AND Y isn't actuated, OR BOTH X is centered AND Y is actuated either way. But the easiest of the 3 solutions is already built into my fight stick, a square/diamond selectable restrictor. Just unscrew, twist and rescrew. In diamond mode (still techincally a square, it's just a matter of orientation relative to the actuation axes) the mode is ABS(X)+ABS(Y)<=100%, a linear function, so a perfect diagonal would not register as anything if the physical joystick mechanics 75% movement in one direction. it would physically restrict the case where an X and Y are simultaneously actuated. Now just to find a Masterplay Clone. Maybe someone can combine an external selectable Simultaneous Any Cardinal Direction Scrubber AND a button swapper switch, and make it compatible with those 4 or less games 4-way games that have errors in diagonals not physically presented in default 5200 controllers. And with 2 switches on the controller one for stick right/left and one for scrubbers on/off, you never have to unplug it except for an analog game. The button swapper makes it sell to those who want it left handed. Might as well tackle 2 markets with one item. By the way I got lucky, I found a 5200 that didn't have the extra switchbox, a Competiiton Pro, a default 5200 controller, and a few games for $15. I tested the 5200 with the default switchbox I had at home, and sold it without the switchbox for more than $15 and got basically a free Competition Pro. I believe it was in the 1997 when I found it at an Akron OH (Cuyahoga Falls technically, but most people have heard of Akron thanks to Lebron James and the Rubber Tire industry.) thrift store called Abbey Ann's, which ironically had 2 locations under the same franchise attached to the same parking lot in a 3 store plaza, owned by 2 different owners, but both had the rights to the Abbey Ann's name. Prices were so cheap, they were competing against themselves. That plaza is torn down and they combined and moved into the newer plaza that got renovated. I only had a 5200 for a couple months in 1997, but the buttons were so mushy, that I new this would be valuable, both as a collector's item AND as a score enhancer. Also more games were just plain better with this than with a 5200 controller. When I heard the clicks on the joystick, I knew what I got.

Best of all, you're physically close enough to Cleveland where I can drop it off, pick it up, and save on shipping, or if I ship it, it'd be cheaper.

How good is the ping on it? Will it throw off a light gun (even though Colecovision has no light gun games)? Is it under 1 ms? Besides isn't easier to take straight Y/Cb/Cr as opposed to convert it to RGB? There's no color space translation chip. Just hook Y to green, Cb to Blue and Cr to red. Is there something more to it. I notice a multi-pin DIN connector. Can that do Composite and S-Video too? I notice 10 pins. Is one pin the Composite, one the Luma, one the C, one the Cb, one the Cr, one the R one the G and one the B with 2 pins left to connect? Maybe the Y is Y/C is slightly different that the Y in Y/Cb/Cr (voltage or some other difference?) Then the 10th pin would be the ground or some other "system function". So does that mod let you do RGB, Y/Cb/Cr, Y/C and composite and you just add a physical connector to it? Will it finally cure my RF B/W problems? How much is the cost of the parts and labor of the mod install compared to the cost of buying a "new-used" Colecovision, which may come down with a similar problem later? If so, and the price is right, give me a month to collect the money and sign me up!!!!

What about Super Action 4 button support? And Jag Pro Controller Support? And rotary controller support for Super Action Controller trackwheel? Finally, an excuse to mod a Jag pro to use all the buttons for Super Action Baseball and Football (both American and Soccer) Also both use 12 buttons, 4 directions and one ground. The jaguar has 5 independent buttons, and 5 buttons that are remaps of keypad keys (pro controller) The CV has 4 independent buttons and 2 directions on the wheel. If you don't need the wheel, make the option key a program key. A couple games don't work as Super Aciton games, and 2 don't work as standard games. Maybe there'd be menu option like 1=SA/Std 2= button reassisgn 3= keypad reassign (For Mouse trap, where you can use the buttons as keypad presses) 4= Joystick reassign 5= Rapid rwassign 6= roller on/off 7=SOCD Scrubber on/off 0=reset on 2 you type L then R in Std mode or I,M,R,P (representing your 4 fingers) in SA mode in that order. on 3, you type a eypad button and assign it to 1,3,4,5,6 for L,R,Z,Y,X on the Jag pro controller or C,B,A on gams that don't use and they swap positions for Mouse Trap, . on 4 you can select W and E to be any 2 buttons for the Activiison Decathlon, or assign up to be a button on Smurf. Or you can flip a joystick 180 degrees for right-handed play. on 5 first press button to select button to edit rapid fire, then press a rate with a keypad button where 1 alternates every "joystick frame", 2 alternates every 2 frames, etc. Start toggles always rapid on or off/ always held when held / rapid when held There would be an RCA barrel cable either attached to the RF cable or the Composite/Component Y for the on screen display to interrupt or overlay on the game during program mode. Also would be used to confirm no rapid fire or SOCD Scrubber legal combination for tournament/world record play, or you can make option 7 SOCD scrubber on/off That way the guy who wants SOCD unscrubbed, and I can have it for Activision Decathlon. Finally, is power only needed for rapid fire, or is power needed in the the adapter intrinsically. You forgot to include the suggestion I'd use for power: Rechargeable AA or AAA NiHM batteries (also compatible with Alkalines) That way if the batteries lose charge, just buy more rechargeable AA/AAA, not have a worthless brick unless you know how to replace the internal battery, AND find the part for it. I don't think AA/AAA will go out of style. Things meant to last many years use AA/AAA. Don't mess it up with a soldering job or an irreplaceable battery.

I don't have an RGB CRT TV. Instead I have a Y/Cb/Cr/L/R TV An RGB would be worthless. Does anyone have the ability to turn a Colecovision from RF into Y/Cb/Cr/L/R (or Y/Cb/Cr/A if in mono). I'm not handy with a soldering gun. Hopefully for the cost of a "new-used" Colecovision, I can send in a Black-and-white outputting CV (By the way, an earlier Odyssey 2 and Bally Astrocade had similar issues, Wish I had them modded instead of sold as B/W), and have it modded for Y/Cb/Cr/Mono or L/R. I heard it's easier to take existing Y/Cb/CR the Colecovision, Astrocade, and possibly other machines "think" in terms of, and just straight channel, than combining the Cb and Cr to C for S-Video or all 3 for Composite. By the way, to use in places with no component, would it be be just as low ping to buy a Component-to-Composite converter without touching the resolution. And what's cheaper, adding Composite and/or S Video to the mod, or buying a Component to S-Video and/or Composite adapter, assuming ping isn't an issue? Finally, I don't have much electrical talent. Anyone want to possibly take my B/W CV and any possibly other old school RF consoles if/when they lose color, and permanently fix the B/W issue, which most people say should solve it for good. if so how much? It might take a month or two to save the money for it.

I am currently running an RCA cable from the back of the Colecovision straight into the TV or VCR through an RCA to RF cable and it's STILL having either B/W or Rainbow banding + Monochrome. There is no RF switchbox, primarily because the reason for the switchbox, hooking up television and video games at the same time, has been rendered moot because the lack of NTSC Antenna programming on TV. Every way I hook it up give me either a monochrome picture, a rainbow banding + monochrome picture, or a snowy color picture. Also would getting a Composite, S-Video, or Component Mod fix the B/W issue with the RF? I would like it in whatever method the Colecovision thinks of the video signal in natively. For example, the Astrocade natively thinks in terms of Y/Cb/Cr and runs through a RF encoder so a mod should get it out through Component Video. Does the Coleco natively think in terms of Y/Cb/Cr, Y/C, or composite video? That's the tap I need. The coleco runs perfectly fine, except for color issues. P.S. Is there any ping issues with running it through a VCR? Sometimes running it through a VCR gives me color. But sometimes it locks a B/W signal, then I play a color video tape and it within a frame goes to color, then when I stop the tape goes back to B/W CV. I notice sometimes, in the old days, when Betascanning a tape of video game footage, the video game footage doesn't appear in the scanning. I guess the perfect test is a light gun game: if the light gun aim is thrown off, then it's not pixel perfect ping. Thankfully, there are no light gun games for the Colecovision.

I got a Colecovision with a Black and White Picture. It occaionally has rainbow banding and monochrome, and occasionally has a snowy or barred color picture. I read somewhere it my be my Sony Wega TV TV having trouble with RF. But Luckkilly I also have a Daewoo, and IT was in black and white too. So much for the Sony Wega having B?W problems. Here was the 2 websites where I read that informaiton on: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/200963-video-output-issues-with-my-colecovision/?hl=%2Bevilmaxwar&do=findComment&comment=2569949 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41711 Then I read there's an analog thing you can screw to adjust the RF adapter correctly on an SNES RF internal box. I seee a hole in the RF box on the Colecovision. is there a way I can ajdust it without risking ruining the Colecovision. I don't feel comfortable as a surgeon running electricity through a naked, open CV. Any safe ways to do this where I can adjust on the fly and not risk damaging my system?

Are they New in Box, or are they actually used? Do you have any problems with games on them, like I found with Pataank? Any one else want to report SNES-> 3DO adapter incompatibilities? Mine is Pataank with the UFO 3D Zero SNES apapter By the way, is it just MY 3D Zero, or is it EVERY 3D Zero, or even ALL SNES->3DO adapters, because I heard there is more than one brand. And is it JUST Pataank, or are there other titles that these don't work with?

I was actually pitching that to Keith Robinson before he died. It's Netrogames. My method is different. Assuming my theory is correct, it can do it with the original ROM without making any net code, so it will work with Data East, Hanna Barbara, Disney, etc. games. Also it SHOULD work with only 56kb/s because you have sub-8ms ping time. Visit http://www.netrogames.com for details.

Hello, I got an update about Netrogames. After Keith Robinson died, Steve Roney looked at my Netrogames Idea and said tat 56k was too few bits/ second to adequately do it. First fo all I said I was assuming the Sprint Direct Connect had a maximum speed of 56 kb/s becuase it was only meant as a voice network. ut I showed, theat if you're within a 2400 km limit, the low ping of Sprint Direct Connect will connect 2 systems fast enough so that you don't have to send extra data like the plethora of extra data required in most modern games. I was assuming the only thing transmitted was joystick data and random number synching data, and using the power f the "straight line network" to beat the clock of a half frame needed to transmit data and process it in time for the next frame. Second of all, if Steve Roney says he can't do it in 56 kb/s, the good news is, according to Tex Tiexera, the Executive Engineer at Sprint, said that a) low ping data is possible with Direct Connect without any new burdens on the network, and b) Direct Connect can do as fast data speeds as the Sprint network allows along the path. I think the network is like 99.9% covered for 3G, which is 500 kb in/150 kb out and over 95% of the nation has 4G LTE with is anywhere from 10-100 MB in, 3-30 Mb out. Literally the only difference between a traditional connection and a Sprint Direct Connect connection is the advantage of straight line data, and the disadvantage (Sprint would call it a "feature") of only working on a "Sprint to Sprint direct connection " with no foreign networks to bounce the signal. If Steve Roney is reading this, this is the way you networkize the old Intellivision games, make it feel like the original locally with no lag, and no add any new code, which means third party INTV cartridges can be played online because you're not using third party game code to make the network work, so you're not creating an unauthorized derivative work. Of course to go beyond a half light-frame (2400 km assuming 60 F/s, the distance is longer if less Hz rate) of distance one way, you might have to make a derivative network code. But this would be a start.

I posted this topic on the Bally Alley email community. Maybe some other people who aren't handy like I'm not would want these Atari <-> Bally converters.

The most important ones you didn't touch on. 9 PIn button flipping and Atari<-> Astrocade converters. I'm trying to connect my special PS2 fight stick to an Astorcade, and I can so far get it to PS2-> Genesis. And previous experience with the GameCube Port Adapter for Wii U works chaining a PS2-> Game Cube -> Switch (via Wii U device) so chaining is possible and usually works in most cases. I suspect the only way you'll consider doing them is if they are straight pin remap wirings. No chips, no other electronic components. By the way, I don't need paddle functions on the 2600-> Astrocade adapter. If I want to play an Astrocade paddle game, I'd use an Astrocade paddle. Only joystick is needed, at least by me, thank you. The website shown above has the Atari and Astorcade mapping combinations. I'l even copy them myself. To quote glakonian website: The numbering above is reverse to the industry standard. This has made it difficult when working with pre-numbered DB9 ends.Below is the matching pinouts. Bally/Astrocade Atari Standard Controller port Controller port 1. NC (No Connection) 1. Up 2. Down 2. Down 3. Left 3. Left 4. Right 4. Right 5. Trigger 5. Paddle Potentiometer B 6. Up 6. Fire Button 7. Potentiometer end 7. +5v (Paddle end) 8. Ground 8. Ground 9. 50K Potentiometer (Knob) 9. Paddle Potentiometer A DB9 Male Port: DB9 Female Plug: 1 2 3 4 5 5 4 3 2 1 6 7 8 9 9 8 7 6 An Atari-Bally controller converter may be constructed. The connections are listed here: A1-B6 A2-B2 A3-B3 A4-B4 A5-NC B1-NC A6-B5 A7-B7 A8-B8 A9-B9 .... where (A)tari (B)ally. Thus adapters can be made to connect an Atari compatible controller to the Bally/Astrocade or vice versa. Please note that the Bally/ Atari/ Commodore paddles use different value potentiometers and additional work is necessary to make one controller work with another console. Adding A resistor in parallel will help if the sweep (Max turn) is too long. Other? Also note that the Bally/ Astrocade port does not provide voltage. Thus autofire circuits will not work when plugged into the port. But the ambitious tinkerer may build an autofire circuit tapping the light pen port.

Hey Nurmix. I assume the Intellivision adapters are straight rewiring adapters for various things, and require no programming. The FB-> INTV1 is basicially a 9-pin to 9-pin but in a proprietary format fo the INTV 1. You also state you make FB controls-> INTV 2 machine adapters. Out of curiosity: Do you custom make any other combination of INTV1, INTV 2, and INTV FB? I assume since it's just a wiring job and now you do customs for $1 more per wire than a multi-unit run, here's a couple I'm looking to get done. Have you considered other adapters, like what I need, which I will pay the normal price for: 1) 2 Atari 2600 lefty adapters (plug it in a standard 2600 stick and the console, rotate 90 degrees clockwise and play lefty) 2) An Atari 2600 Joystick to Bally Astrocade machine adapter (assumijng either a 7800, Colecovision, or Genesis controller would work just as well as 2600 stick.) If you need the pinout direction for an Atari Controller to Astrocade Machine adapter: visit http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.htmlto read pinout instructions. I need this for my PS2->Genesis fight stick adapter and PS2 fight stick. 3) Maybe, a reverse of #2, an Astrocade Joystick to Atari Console adapter for using the pistol grip on 2600 games. 4) I'm asking this in theory, not in practice, because I have a universal soluiton for all my controls, but... if changing the button functions is as simple as pin rewiring, a "Button Flipper" for the following 2 button consoles: Atari 5200, Atari 7800, NES, Colecovision Standard, Master System, and Turbo Grafx 16. Tutankham, Pac-Land, and Side Arms need a button flipper if playing with a right handed joystick. If one of them requires something other than a simple pin swap, just say it's not that easy. (P.S. Do I only get the bulk discount on the 2 Left wires because they are 2 of a kind, or do I get a discount on all for these adapters?)

The reason why I'm looking for a PCB wiring is becuase the 3D Zero SNES adapter doesn't accurately do one of the 5 games I own. PaTaank is the one where the controller acts funny no matter where in the chain it is, even if it's the only controller in the chain. I would get a tototek, except I have 2 problems wit it. 1, no dasiy chain, and 2, needs to configurable so that P and X can eb middle punch.

Hey Ed of Edladdin: That was mainly a stream-of-consciousness, where at first I was advocating a digital joystick for the 90% of games where either controls need to be instantly shifted on a frame, or have to find the exact center or else you'll be screwed, and then I saw, there is no such thing as a Swiss Army Knife for the 5200, ie one controller that can do everything. The 3 games I mentioned, Star Wars, Kaboom, Missile Command are best with the default 5200 controller where there is no self-centering. I used the case of Warlords on Atari Flashback for Xbox One where adding self-centering when not intended can ruin you. Then I thought, if it had self centering, would that make it an effective combined digital/analog joystick? i thought of the case of Galaxian, where both a) the x axis is analog in 5 ranges, fast left, slow left, stop, slow right, and fast right, and b) there is a benefit to "finding the center" easier, which I believe you don't want to move between two bullets with barely enough width for one ship. I honestly only played Dreadnaught Factor on an Atari 800 bootleg floppy, so I only experienced it with a 2600/800 digital stick. I guess both varying velocity/acceleration rates come in handy in that game. It can come in handy if you're used to it. Probably the best solution to the those who want a Digital stick is a Genesis and/or 7800 to 5200 adapter (for which I can use a Tototek PS2-> Genesis adapter, and plug THAT in the Genesis to 5200 adapter, along wiht YOUR Genesis to 7800 adapter, which is the only one to work with 2 button games.) with either built in keypad or allow for a real working 5200 controller as a backup keypad. Maybe it can have a 15-pin port with one of 3 things attachable to it, a new keypad made just for this device, a real 5200 joystick, or a "button mapper" for a Genesis 6 button controller, where any button can equal Top, Bottom, or any of the 15 keypad presses. Here are a couple possibilities for using the extra buttons of the Genesis. If Defender uses the keypad for an extra function like Hyperspace, that can be the C button, or this one game I remember for the Atari 800 (bootleg floppy again) which was probably a 5200 game originally. (I think it was Countermeasure, but I'm not sure) where you had to type in combinations of keyboard buttons 1 2 3 in a 3 digit combination before the atomic bomb went off. You can go to the bunker early, but you'd be guessing codes until you luck out or die. The preliminary part of the game was finding pieces of code by shooting stuff and other non-sepeciific stuff I remember. The countdown code was the most memorable thing on it. If you found one piece of the code, you can guess all 9 possible codes as guesses in time easily. At least on level 1. Does level 2 and beyond have either more possible "letters of the alphabet" or "letters in the word" or both? But I assume for every digital game, a self-centering analog joystick would work just as well. I guess for Galaxian and Dreadnaught the self centering analog would be perfect. If it doesn't a nine-pin for Genesis/7800 (2600 won't work for some games, too few buttons.) would be a good addition too. Also about the Colecovision controller. you have a 12 button physical keypad in your "wire-up board" kit. What would I do if I want to wire up the 1 , 2 and 3 buttons for the doors in Mouse Trap and the 5 for Dog to my fight stick, but also have the keypad for level selection. Speaking of Colecovision, have you tried your Colecovision Super Action Clone Stick and/or board on Q Bert's Qubes and Activision Decathlon? Those are 2 games I only got working with a real Standard CV controller and not a Real CV Super Action controller. Q Bert's Qubes has a bug where if I press a keypad button to select my skill level, and I don't release it instantly, the cubes go nuts and it ends in a runtime error and freezes. Also in Activision Decathlon, the jump/throw button is either alternating on/off automatically and/or being permenantly held down, therefore my jumps and throws are always at the earliest possible point and not even close to the optimal angle. Does your CV stick and/or board do those games correctly? Have you noticed those problems on a real CV Super Action stick? A couple other things for the future, a Saturn -> Jaguar Pro (plus external aux buttons and keypad) adapter, a 4-way/8way joystick for Intelliviison and/or a Genesis to Intellivision adapter, for both original INTV 2 plugs as well as "flashback modded" INTV 1's and 3's. If you make enough of the joysticks, and have enough of the formats, maybe an Omni Classic stick makes sense, where the stick is a Naked DB25 wit one wire-per-control and then an appropriate adapter for each system. Buy what you want and reuse the joystick and save money per console. Here's a couple pictures on my website of how to easilty make an ambidextrous stick without compromising contours.: http://56ok.org/Ambbidextrous/index.htm Finally, your cheapest product, a pin swapper to connect Atari 2600 (or Colecovision, or 7800, or Master System, or Genesis) Joysticks to Astrocade Machines, and a separate product for vice versa (in one-button mode). I say don't bother with the paddle, (or if you do, offer a cheaper Joystick-only version. The Astrocade padddles need to double for an Atari, and the Atari Paddles in some Bally games need a joystick too. I don't know how to build one myself, and you';re the only person who types good English who works on these old American Systems simultaneously. Plus there's electronic issues that I don't understand. the website where the pinouts are at is http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.html

Some of these games look simple in gameplay compared to what the Jaguar did back in its day. Maybe there is hope for my "Finger Dancing Bombs" game, which is kind of like twister for your 2 hands. Press a keypad button with a keypad, then while holding it, press another, and another, up to 6, then take one finger off and put it on a seventh. I thought it was too simnple of a game to include in a stand-alone cartridge, I thought msot of these games would be as complex as a SNES or Genesis game. Apparently (though looks may be deceiving) some of these look simpler game-play-wise. I thought it would have to be included in a minigame compilation called "Going to the Party Jag". Mario Party always showcased their microphones, their wii mote, their touchpad, their gyroscope, etc. Sonic Shuffle showcased the VMU as a cheap privacy screen for secretly picking cards and mixing them up to pass a Robotnik card on someone else if they try picking one of your cards. This "Finger Dancing Bombs"game would demonstrate the feature, if what the neo-Jag-Pro controller guy is saying is true, that all 12 keypad buttons are independent, and not reliant on only one being pressed at a time. If that's true, then this would be the perfect concept to showcase that fact. Ideas are cheap, anyone on this forum use it if they want. I hope you'll be nice enough to credit me with the concept AND if for some strange reason there is a net verison of the Jaguar with downloadable ROM and Retrobrews are included, a small percentage fo the revenue would be included, along with this advice, more people would play it if it were free, so the only way to raise revenue, assumning the day the download Jaguar comes and can be monetized with either purchases or commercials, so put a commercial that changes via the web every 15 minutes it's played, but ONLY whenever there's a convenient stopping point, (commercial cliffhangers are good for TV, bad for games) on a virtual web-enabled Jag console. more people will try it if it's free, and the more it's tried, the more you get paid. As to the possibility of a Web-enabled neo-Jaguar, visit http://www.netrogames.com to see my concept of using a low ping connection to turn ANY console, from the 2600 to the 360, into a Web console, even if the original code was not web enabled. Sprint said their Direct Connect Network is the perfect network for a low-ping connection. They just need someone to pull the trigger. Keith Robinson asked Steve Roney, just before Keith died, whether it was worth pulling the trigger. Steve said the fac that I work with 56k connectoin makes him weary. but the point is I didn't know if Direct Connect speeds were dial-up-equivalent, or whether they were the same as their non-Direct Connect Data speeds. I was going off a worst case scenerio, that they were dial up, Roney said you need more speed. I was told by Tex Tiexera, the Engineering Executive of Sprint, they can be both high-speed AND low-ping simultaneously. So Steve, or any one else who thinks this is a decent project, if the only reason you thought it wouldn work was becuase of my conservative asssumption of 56k you've got the bandwidth., Now here's a way to test it: There are emulators with generic web-networking. Normally they feel "skatey", meaning more proactive and less reactive, because of high ping time. If Direct Connect Data lowers the ping time to 1 ms/300 km of distance between the 2 players, and doing that makes it less "skatey", then that's the proof of my idea working. Any 2 people who live within 2400 towered-land-path km between each other and have Sprint Direct Connect, try it, and see if it works. Try an emulator which is normally considered "Skatey" or more proactive, less reactive. Then apply a Direct Connect connection, see if that makes it easier. By the way, Steve Roney, the reason I assumed only 56k was because I didn't know if I had more than 56k to work with because Direct Connect was intended originally as a voice service, so maybe ONLY 56k was allocated to that type of connection. Since Tex Tiexera has confirmed that Direct Connect is just as high speed as regular Sprint network connections, just quicker ping times, maybe you'll consider it now. The only drawback is a Sprint-to-Sprint connection, but Sprint is the only ones consistently offering it anyway, so if you're going to do this, you'll have have a unified service anyway.