Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. In some games it can make a difference. I discovered it when I visited a "lefty vs rightie" Street Fighter Machine somewhere on a trip. I did so much better on the right hand side, especially with Dragon Punches, that I had made a custom fight stick in 1993. ( A little ahead of my time) To read more about the story visit 56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm to read a story on how well not only I did, butt wtoher random firends did. Then read the doubter who lost to everyone there, and see who that doubter is. If you watched video game competitions on basic cable TV in the 00s, you may recognize this person.
  2. I have one of those SNES-> 3DO adpaters. I only tried it with 3 games, and one of them failed. it was Pataaank, that first person pseudo-pinball game. The adapter I have is a UFO 3D Zero and it didn't work on that, either anywhere along the daisy chain, or even as the only controller. I bought it for $10 in 2002, and it had errors of multiple actuations when centered during Pataaank. But in a couple other games, like PGA Golf, they were fine. SNES-> 3DO adapters are not all they're cracked up to be. Also If you have a PS2 fight stick, don't get a Tototek PS2-> 3DO adapter UNLESS you are only planning to play one player games. There is no daisy chain port on them. I personally haven't tried them, but no Daisy Chain port makes it a deal breaker automatically. My best advice is to gut any 3DO controller you can get. The Naki might not be a good physical controller to actuate with your fingers/thumbs, but it may be good for fight stick modding. That's what I'm planning to have modded. Plus it's got a Daisy Chain port that works. Anyone else have trouble with either a 3D Zero adapter or another brand of SNES-> 3DO adapter? Someone want to report a brand that works better that's cheap enough where I don't have to hire a modder to mod a 3DO pad for me?
  3. Losing the analog is the whole point of this. About 90% of the games benefit from an all-or-nothing approach. I know these games would be hindered by a digital stick: Missile Command, Super Breakout, Kaboom, Star Wars, and a couple of others. Galaxian loses a little by lack of analog but is by no means unplayable. Where everything else benefits from a digital control. I'm thinking of having someone hard wire the potentiometer directly. so than any left press is a set distance to the left. But here are twin problems. If you set the cardinals at 100%, then the diagonal's radius is 141%, which may either be considered cheating in competitive gaming, or may cause software errors. To counter that, you need to set the cardinals to 70%, so that the diagonals are 100%, but I don't know if any game is too insensitive at 70% cardinals. To solve this problem, there needs to be made some sort of circuit where N + E does not necessarily equal to NE. The 5200 could use some sort of circuit where cardinals are actuated at 100%, yet if 2 cardinals are activated, then the combination activates the component cardinals at 70% so the diagonal's radius equals 100%. Also a neutral state needs to be at the exact halfway point of X and Y. It would come in handy for the Intellivision too because there are 16 separate actuators for the 16 separate directions. and on the Intellivision actuating N + E give you crazy errors if the individual north and east are pressed simultaneously. You need to actuate the NE actuator. The point is I'd use a genuine 5200 controller for the games that need it, (the analog games) and the fight stick for ones better with the digital stick. Also it seems the lack of self-centering is beneficial with Kaboom, Super Breakout, and Missile Command. I noticed when playing Warlords on the Xbox One compilation that it's hard to "dial a position" like on a 2600 paddle in absolute mode. You're fighting centering resistance.
  4. I assume it's mapped in an all or nothing situation, which would be better for about 90% of the games on the 5200: quick motion, quick stopping. That would come in handy if someone pad hacks a Jaguar standard controller for my fight stick for me. Why couldn't Atari have a 2 controller solution, like a digital controller for 2/4/8 way games and a separate analog controller? They had separate Paddles, Joysticks, Keypads, and rotary controllers (used for only one game, talk about specialty controller) from day one on the 2600, and added a light gun and a track ball. Provide the digital controllers as the baseline, and the analog controllers as an add on.
  5. Actually, the system I described is TOO simple: Here's my evidence that an Intellivision controller follows a logic even weirder than I suggest and why using a 2600 controller would not work without some modification. I've explained a system that could use 3 independent buttons, and 5 pins to cover 16 ways and 12 keypad buttons, and 3 dual keypad combinations, one of them is Pause, and one combination for neutral. Apparently there are NO independent controls, no single pin is reserved for any button, joypad direction, or keypad press. All are interrelated to each other. Apparently, pressing ANY 2 controls would mess it up and come up with unpredictable results. Also if you take apart the controller, there are 16 separate actuators for the 16 separate directions, which makes pad hacking tough, because NE <> N + E
  6. Hello Edladdin: (I'm not going to bother copying your quote but I am addressing a couple things from them) First I know the Colecovision and 7800 controls default to a 2600 controller when plugged into a 2600. Likewise a 2600 controller can work on one-button CV and 7800 games. I understand the Genesis was designed to work with the Master System, even a few Brazilian Master System games use a 6-button controller. Does the Genesis and Master System controller default to a one-button controller on any compatible 9 pin machine and can be used as a 1-button controller on any of them (like 7800,CV, and 2600)? And the reverse, where those controller are acceptable on a 1 button game? If that's the case, then a Gneesis is seen asa standard 9-pin one button joystick on foreign sticks, the probably the easiest adapter to make would be a 2600->Astrocade adapter. This is of course assuming you don't need the paddle along with the joystick. I believe the only game that actually takes advantage of the controller is the on-board Gunfight. I think all other games that use a josytick as the primary control don't use the paddle at all. There was a paddle game, the equivalent to Video Olympics that used a paddle to move up and down, where you have to be pinpoint accurate, and pressing left and right puts you in a more offensive or defensive position. I haven't seen an advantage to playing closer to the center, I think it was just something different to give the Bally "Pong" a different identity, and to avoid a litigious Atari. SInce most arcade games would be better with an 8 way stick, except for paddle-speciifc games, all you need is joystick directions and one action button. This website shows the pin mapping. No circuitry necessary, just do a pin swap. Hopefully it will work with ANY 9-pin controller in one-button mode. I found a 7800 controller does work on a Colecovision, even in 2 button mode.... as long as you don't need both buttons at the same time. The most obvious game you'll notice this effect in is Tutankham. You can't use the smart bomb, but you can fire left and right. Also maybe a cheap version for the intellivision controller would be 8 way. I mainly want to use it for Burgertime, Lock N Chase, and other 2/4/8 way games. i heard the only game where a true 16 way joystick would become a NECESSITY is Vectron. In sports games, you lose a little subtlety and exactness but is not a requirement. The weird thing about an INTV controller is that all 12 keypad buttons and all 16 directions are mapped to 5 pins. One pin is the "Joystick Yes?" pin. If it's on, then the other 4 pins determine the direction. There is a default direction which is all zeroes One bit adds 180 degrees in one direction, another pin adds 90, anorther pin adds 45, and the final pin adds 22.5 2^4=16 Meanwhile if the "Joystick Yes" pin is no, then the other 4 pins determine the key pressed. 12 are reserved for the 12 keys, 1 is reserved for a code for no joystick or button pressure, another one is reserved for the pause combination. (I never had an Intellivision until the thrift store 90s, so I don't know what the pause combinaiton is.) and there's 2 other reserved combinations. Of course pressing 2 buttons simultaneously or a joystick and one or more buttons can result in unpredictable results. Some instruciton booklets warn you of this. Finally, I don't know if I understand the nature of pad-hacking correctly, but I thought you have to be LESS of an electrical engineer to get it to work. You, Edladdin, are doing something much tougher, recreating the circuit to work from whole cloth. I thought the whole point of pad hacking was to find where the pressure point where the circuit connects upon movement, and move the on-off switch closer to your external joystick. If you don't mess with the controller PCB, and keep the controller intact, and you have a working controller you're willing to sacrifice on the altar of the god of higher scores, and you don't care about the cosmetics of the carcus, and you're no longer planning to use it as a stand alone controller, then this makes much more sense. You as the pad hacker doesn't have to figure out engineering of the controller to the chips, you just have to move the variable actuation point from the real joystick to your hand-made ergonomic joystick. If you didn't know the Playstation 2 signal coding, all you had to do is wire the left to the left, the x to the x, and organize it right, and you've basically moved the switch to your new joystick. If I'm right, if your working joystick does work, then you're just using the same chips and moving the variable actuation location. Is it true that this is easiest to do if your new joystick is in a one-wire-one-signal format. Heck even the Undamned adapter can do a USB/PS3/ maybe 360 stick and convert it into one-wire-one-signal setup. Is it true if you want to swap the buttons for the games, to be sure you can do it in, the easiest way to do it is in the one-wire-one-signal mode. About your 2 button joysticks, are they mapped index-to-index (BA J AB), or are they mapped left-to-left (AB J AB)? If it works for left handed sticks as intended for all games in button right mode, then most games work index-to-index, but Tutankham, Pac-Land and Side Arms work left-to-left, and in your default mode (if you use index-to-index), would be mapped backwards, I think the Atari 7800 and MAYBE the the Master System might be easy to fix with a middle pin swapping device. Just wire A in to B out and B in to A out. Turbo Grafx 16 might be coded so it's not as simple as a pin swap. Sinfce I assume it's easiest to correct before it gets encoded, maybe a sliding switch would align the wires to work both ways without re-engineering, when they are in one-wire-one-signal mode. That's why I was trying to request a DB25 "Telephone Operator Board" where I just hook up one RCA (if possible, otherwise 3.5 mm, but I had a problem with KY Enterprises' 3.5 adapters, and their idea of customer service was fix it yourself, so sorry for not feeling secure about 3.5 mm connectors) M/M from one joystick input to one pad hack output. And then connecting them via DB25, (enough for a Colecovision Super Action or a PS2 controller if analog directions are mapped a pin per direction) Now I will no longer be hostage to games being unable to swap buttons. and it should work for almost everything not analog. Most NES game I don't want to be at the mercy of a repairman whose work lasted one week, and got shipped and lasted one week more. I've had bad experience with customs made joysticks, and people on Shoryuken complain I'm too whiny and specific. I've had bad experiences, and I learned from them. I think all-in-all I came up with the smartest way to do an ambidextrous joystick. I've experienced the pitfalls, so I know how to avoid them. One of them said he wanted to do business via email. I told him I prefer phone because I can react to you, explain things when needed, and get your understanding right away so I don't have to explain it 100 different ways to convey exactly what I'm looking for. He says he needs a searchable text record so he can look up conversations and see if he messed up, and to show me proof if he thought I was trying to screw if. I came up with a suggestion that fulfills both our needs. Instant private text chat sequence, like AIM, or AOL Instant Messenger, before that closed down. Now that that's gone what would be a good equivalent. All he has to do is copy and save the entire conversation when done, and he has his searchable copy ad I have quicker ping times. The only reason why I expound is because i get no reaction from the other side. If I give too little information, that implies, "do it whatever way you want when you fulfill my request". And he complains my texts are too long. I just know when I had my right handed joystick, I want nothing to get in the way of it working right. A different guy was over-engineering it so that multiple consoles can be operated at once. If I didn't ask for this engineering, why do I have to pay for it? I have a reason for every request I have. This other guy couldn't explain why controlling multiple consoles at once was cheaper, easier laborwise, and sturdier construction wise than daisy chaining one at a time. It also increases dependence on the engineer. As Montgomery Scott said when he sabotaged the Excelsior, "The more they overthink the plumbing, the easier it is to clog the drain." I know as separate units, if the telphone operator board doesn't work, just don't play games where I have to customize buttons. They made the button switching portion integrated so that if that failed, the whole thing has to be taken in. I couldn't use it without the button swapping feature. I tried to pick the default operation that was used most, index-to-index, which should work for over 95% of games, and if the button swapper fails, I just ease up on those games. Originally I wanted every controller PCB pad hacked. Then I had a PS2 Street Fighter Anniversary Stick, which I eventually swapped north and south, east and west, and punches with corresponding kicks, and guess what, it makes a good right handed stick. So I decided to try adapters from PS2 to other consoles. Every time they work well. I currently got ones for Dreamcast w VMU, Game Cube, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS3, Wii Claasic, Wii U Classic, Xbox One and Switch. I'm planning to buy more, for Saturn, N64, SNES, Genesis 6 Button, Turbo Grafx 16, NES, Master System, Atari 7800. The ones I need manually pad hacked are Jaguar, 3DO (because the Tototek adapter doesn't have a daisy chain port, and the 3D Zero adapter doesn't work for over 10% of my collection, literally one game out of less than 10), 5200, Colecovision Standard, (as you might know by testing, Edladdin, QBert's Qubes and Activision Decathlon doesn't work with the Super Action controller) Colecovision Super Action, Intellivision, and Astrocade. But the keystone for over 15 systems is the PS2 Dual Shock 2. I wrote to this one guy telling him his job is a heck of a lot shorter. And he complains that $300 is too little, when I specifically told him that might be a starting point, meaning more may come in the future, and he didn't have to do work until he get paid. I don't know how tolerant Atariage is of language, but this guy is a total "eleventh finger of friendship" So Edladdin, if you can me in contact with this guy, I got $300 ready to go on this project. If you want to, pick a forum where we can text chat, and see if this is good for you and your hack guy. Nice talking to you. P.S. I thought a Genesis controller was a one-button 7800 controller by default anyway. You should be able to plug a Genesis and play single button games. If the Best Electronics adapter is not a 2 button adapter, why do you need it, even knowing it's single button?
  7. Edladdin, Sounds good, but I don't need an actual joystick, I just need the board interface. I can work with a lot of different formats. One format is Fight Stick db25 (where 8 of the pins on a PS2 include 4 directions of Left Stick, and 4 directions of the right stick, plus 4 shoulders, 4 face, 4 directions, 3 aux buttons, a ground and a voltage.) And the same DB 25, since they are single input fight sticks, can have 12 keypad buttons, 4 direcitons, 2 buttons, 3 aux buttons, and voltage and ground.) where 12 keypads are like 12 directions and buttons on the PS2. Other formats that can be used are PS2, and there are other formats that can work off PS2 controllers that can be used, like anything a PS2 can be converted to, like USB PC/Mac/PS3/360/PS4/One. Someone elsewhere on AtariAge was considering Jaguar to 5200 adapter. As for an ambidextrous joystick I got 2 issues. One is button flipping, where if there is a concept of main and second button, like most games, or if there's a concept of left and right, like in these games: Tutankham, Pac Land, Side Arms if you force an index-to-index map, you'll have backward fire buttons. Second, is it easier to have a flippable arcade joystick, and have 2 ports to plug out of and have a movable number keypad that can be shifted left or right, of if you want to include a keypad, you have to find the cheapest thing to put in the middle, either Joystick or 12 button keypad + aux buttons, and design both side outward. Can you do the pad hacking? I assume it's easier to pad hack with a db25 standard than with a coded joystick standard, just complete the circuit to wire the button/direciton needed. If so maybe I can hire you to do my job. I got $300 as a starting point for your labor. I know you did a version of the Genesis->7800 controller adapter. What's the difference between yours and the one from best-electronics-ca.com, the official Atari repair and new-old-stock company after the crash. You were also discussing a Genesis-> Colecovison adapter (don't know if it's actually made, also not sure if it works with the 2 games I have that don't work with Super Action controllers. QBert's Qubes and Activision Decathlon?) An easy project is a Genesis-> Astrocade adapter, because it's just a simple pin swap for the joystick. Of course you can't use the paddle and joystic at the same time without a specially made controller. FInally a tough onwe, an 8-way INTV controller?
  8. I have a Digital Joystick for the 5200, and you can either aim at the center, the center of the 4 edges, and the 4 corners in Missile Command. This is not the droid I'm looking for. I would want a fight stick for digital games for games better with digital games, like most of the the arcade translations. Star Wars, Missile Command, and Kaboom would be be better with an actual 5200 analog controller which DOESN'T self-center. But I can see Galaxian working with this. But a Left Handed joypad? Couldn't there be a right handed joystick version, too? Or better, make it 180 degrees flippable, or like the prototype Genesis ambidextrous controller pad, (I would link to it but the only link is a long expired ebay auction for a non-funtional design prototype) where buttons and the joystick are placed on either side in a case? (I do remember it.)
  9. I am having a hard time finding a joystick pad hacker for an ambidextrous arcade stick for multiple consoles. I am looking to hire someone to finish my dream stick. Like a lot of 2600, INTV, 5200, Coleocvision, Astrocade, and 7800 players, I am right handed. However most joysticks from the NES and beyond are let handed. It's hard to find a right handed joystick for most systems. Those who can't do hire. I am kind of clumsy with internal electronic parts, especially if they are not intended to be manipulated by the end user. I hired a joystick maker in 2009 and got a decent joystick, however it only worked for the Xbox 360. It got temporarily ruined due to slapdsh design. I have lots of other consoles, and reusing the parts saves money over building separate joysticks. I'm looked at as a freak on Shoryuken. i already have 2 strikes against me as far as stick modders are concerned, one is right handedness, and a second for wanting to play old systems as much as new systems and other games besides fighting games. The third strike is I used my personal bad experiences and tried to design ways around them to make a user-friendly model, and most people want to do it in the most slapdash way possible. Most people talk about custom art, some want a custom layout, but they will pay $200/joystick for one joystick that works with one system, and not think ahead OR behind. and pay $300-500 for one that works with 15 plus consoles. If you want to see my design, and how I overcome certain obstacles in designing an ambidextrous stick, it is http://www.56ok.org/Ambidextrous/index.htm Click the shoryuken link above to read a misunderstanding gone awry. I think the joystick maker I'm talking to is mean, and he thinks I'm crazy. I'm the one looking to hire. Looking for some outside opinions. Also if you normally don't visit Shoryuken.com, don't leave a message there. Just comment here. Be kind to both of us, yet honest. Any Joystick Pad-hacker on AtariAge.com who CAN do the 3 trickiest pad hacks, a 5200 digital pad hack, an intellivision pad hack, and a Colecovision Super action Padhack? I need those 3, Astrocade, Coleco Standard (because Activision Decathlon and QBert's Qubes doesn't work on Super Action controls) 3DO, (because the Tototek adapter doesn't have daisy chaining,) Jaguar, and Playstation 2 Dual Shock 2, as well as a little work on my stick. I'm looking to hire someone, after I factor in $200 for other console adapters I don't have, I got $300 I can pay now, and have an income that can't go away, but I can't pay in advance beyond $300. I know $300 is just a starting point. Anyone want to take this on or link to adapters of any kind of system to these 7? (not the PS2, that MUST be a hack to work with all my other systems.) PM me a phone number I can call if in the US, or email if you prefer. And, yes, method of contact is an issue in this argument.
  10. If I needed the box that badly, I'd go on Ebay. I'm not saying make them as cheaply as possible, but I doubt some AtariAge enthusiast's Reproduction JagPro controllers will have collectors clamoring for the box. It would be worth as much as a cheap, generic NES-compatible joypad box for a model that's a blatant ripoff. Collectors demand the original. Pragmatic gamers will accept substitutes, especially if it saves them money or improves their games. What is Atari going to to do when we hook up repro JagPros? They could take the Nintendo route and say they are not fixing any busted controller ports, but they don't fix them today anway, even if you used only genuine Atari parts. But most likely they'll say, "People still care about the Jaguar 25 years later? COOL! A lot more popular beyond the grave than in its lifetime." If you're going to put them in retro retail stores anyway, then yes a box comes naturally to show it as unused. You need to put the UPC barcode somewhere. But if not, if it's going to boost the cost beyond 2 for $120, then if I could, I'd opt opt of the box. I'd accept it if you can keep it in the same price range. Of course if the inner shipping box contains 2 JagPro pads in 2 separate boxes, then this would open retail options to retro game stores. 2 for $120 would be the wholesale price and $75 is the retail price for a single in stores.
  11. I agree about the right handed solution. Also find the thing that would be most useful to most people. A Genesis controller would not work because it, as well as Atari, Coleco, Astrocade, Commodore, SMS) assume one bit is on or off for each cardinal, and diagonals are actuated by pressing in between the cardinals, while the INTV joystick system uses 5 pins for 12 keypad buttons and 16 directions. One pin controls whether it's a direcitonal movement, or a keypad press is detected. If the frame is in D-pad mode, then there is a default cardinal direction that's assume if the d-pad pin is on and none of the directional keys are on. One pin adds 180 degrees, one pin adds 90 degrees in one direction, one pins adds 45 degree angles in that game direction, and one pin adds 22.5 degrees. It's 16-direction and 1 degree of sensitivity. (no pressure on the pad is assumed when the key bit is used, is considered a keypad press of null if neither the keypad or stick are pressed. A funny thing about the controller, you can't press a keypad button and a joypad direction together without getting unpredictable results. 12 of the remaining 15 combinations are a key each, one extra 4-bit setting is a reserved "pause setting" by pressing 2 keys simultaneously. (a specific 2, I never owned the INTV as a kid so I don't know which 2. Until I know, I assume just empty the body's septic tank before I play a long session.) And there's 2 other combinations reserved for other keypad combos. I'm looking for someone to wire a DB25 pin adapter to it. I would use a standard fight DB15, except for 2 factors. The first is the DB15 does not accommodate 8 main fight buttons, 4 directions, 3 aux buttons, a ground, and a voltage, and the second is every system with a keypad can have a pin reserved for an individual number keypad press. Intv has 12 keys, and because a fight stick would not be right for games that require 16 ways, but be better with 8-way, 4 way, and 2 way games, 4 cardinals, and 3 buttons=19 independent keys, (+2 for voltage and ground=21) Coleco Super action has 12 keypad, plus 4 action, 2 roller directions that could be "buttonized" (The roller works as 2 different buttons on a Sega Genesis 3 button game. not a very accurate pair of buttons, but two nonetheless.) + 4 directions, making 24 when you add one for voltage and one for ground. 5200 is analog so that's a different beast, and the Jaguar has 12 keys, 4 directions, 3 action buttons, and 2 aux buttons, plus ground and voltage makes 23. So a DB 25 would work for wiring each individual controller. If the DB25 standard was used for a fight stick, then you have 8 buttons, 4 directions, 3 aux buttons, a ground and voltage, and you have room for 8 more pins. May I suggest sending analog sticks as 4 cardinals apiece in a digital manner so that the only thing not wired are the L3 and R3. I don't know of any games that work well with a fight stick requiring L3 and R3, but Super Smash Bros can use the analogs as movement and smash stick. What about the Atari Jaguar Pro Controller? Funny thing... L, R, Z, Y, and X are mapped to 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 respectively. So save that Jaguar Pro pad for games you want pads, and pad-hack a standard Jag pad. It's a lot cheaper fight stick solution. The biggest trick is getting 4 discrete cardinals mapped to 8 pressure sensors on INTV because you'll have to do something for diagonals, where N+E = some combination of joystick press existence, +180, +90, and +45 Cardinals are easy, just wire north to north, the 2 tricks are diagonals being a combination of 2 cardinals, and being careful to accidentally not actuating 2 at once, or else you have unpredictable results. That requires some engineering, converting 2 independent cardinals to 8 discrete, non-simultaneous pressings. I haven't the foggiest, but I laid down the first couple clues in the roadmap.
  12. I assume the original Masterplays have no keypad and the Masterplay Clones have the keyboard built on it. Also, if all I'm using it for a Digital Fight stick, meaning only 9 positions, 4 cardinals, 4 diagonals, and neutral, would a PS1/PS2-> 5200 standard be in some way better than going PS2->Genesis-> 5200 via Masterplay clone. I don't need subtle analog controls. I'll use a rebuilt 5200 controller for my analog games.
  13. Is the the right button mapping set-up. And Yes, I'll check out ebay.
  14. Maybe that can a part of a party game, like Mario Party, Sonic Shuffle (even though the ethical dilemmas in choices are so unapparent due to mistranslations, that, unless you've seen that dilemma before, it's basically flip a coin.) Pac Man Fever, Crash Bash, (are there any other mini game party games.) I believe those are the best 4 examples to model a Jaguar party game, and this would be one of the (hopefully lots of and fun) party games that individually wouldn't justify buying a cart over, but maybe in combination can work. Ideas are a dime a dozen. Someone with more programming knowledge than me, take it, and others like it, and develop it for retro Jaguar, and if it's succcessfuil, think of me in some small way. Like a credit in the game for the partial design of that mini-game."Dancing Fingers" (Twister is copyrighted, so another better name must be chosen. I just used that name because everyone knows what Twister is to make the explanation shorter.) I don't expect a penny (unless whoever owns Atari decides to release it as a pre-loaded game in a Retro Jaguar System, a la At Games or Hyperkin. .) ) Finally a name for the centipede that could be a cute character: Hector. It's both a play on metric prefixes (hecto = 100, centi = 1/100 ) and named in honor who the MVP to the most championships in Cleveland, Hector Marinaro, the guy who has played all 4 positions in MISL/NPSL indoor soccer well enough, but became most famous when being a deadeye accurate forward who owned lots of scoring records, who could also launch 3's (yes there's a 3 point arc in this soccer, and all other field goals are worth 2, and an equivalent to an "And 1 free throw" one-on-one attacker-vs-goalie encounter worth one point awarded for certain severe, frequent in general, or goal-saving penalties by the defense.) He was so good, he once, as a trick shot, hit an 8.5 x 11 inch paper taped to the upper goal corner, on the fly, from half court. And it would be fitting that a Centipede plays Soccer well. I don't know of any other cute characters Atari has besides Bentley Bear, but Hector the Centipede would be a good addition.
  15. 1) What is the button pinuot on a Sega Geensis controller. If I remember right the BOTTOM button is the rapid fire trigger on the 5200. Assuming I'm right in the decisions Atari made for the top and bottom button, is it in this arrangement: A= Bottom B=Top C= an assignable button for Hyperspace in Defender, or any other game that uses one keypad button as a main function ? If so I'd like to buy one. Where do I buy?
  16. Actually isn't fighting centering resistance in certain games eithwer tiring or throwing off your shots. For most games I know of that use the 5200 controller in an analog manner, the non-self-centering because these games convey absolute position of the cursor, not relative direction of the cursor? Star Wars looks harder when self centered. I'm more interested in these converters for my digital games, meaning something that works with a fight stick. So you're saying a Masterplay Clone will do keypad and 2 button games. By the way, does Genesis A map to top or bottom, and B to the other one, and hopefully C can be a programmable third keypad button like for hyperspace in Defender, Where can I order a Master Play Clone? If I post again, I'll give an answer in 5 minutes, I'll search Atari Age
  17. Anyone though of using a Wii Nunchuk directly plugged into an external keypad and 5200 controller head dongle, where you can control the top and bottom button with C and Z, control an analog stick with the stick, and have it self-center, all with one hand, and, just as importantly, either hand, and use your other hand to type in keys as necessary for games that use them or to pause?
  18. So in theory, you could make a game of "Dancing Fingers Twister" where you have to use both hands to press 6-8 keypad buttons, and "the bomb goes off" if you either press one wrong step or move one of you fingers off the keypad, (except for one legal key that can be released which is deactivated) and have to use 2 fingers, including the one free finger, on one button to free another finger. You're saying the controller natively supports a game like I describe. I don't know if it would be a fun game in and of itself, or if that can be a seed of a great game in the future, but the controller can handle it if that's the type of game you're making.
  19. But If I must buy 2, I know one friend who has a Jaguar and is a video game nut. If he's interested, I'll sell him one privately, if not, there's always ebay or the "everything from Atari to Xbox" video game stores in Cleveland and Akron. At least I know I can take apart a 3 button for the fight stick PCB and have it act like a Jag Pro Pad except i joystick form. Saves me money. Unless someone can name a 3+ player game that uses more than just C,B,A, that uses 1, 3, 4, 5, and/or 6 (not counting Jag Link games) frequently enough where it'd be more handy on Z, Y, X, L, and R than to reach for the keypad. By the way, that never really answered by question fully. All I know is I can use a Jag Standard pad to PCB hack for a Jag Pro. I was wondering if all 12 keypad buttons are independent buttons, where pressing 2 or more keys in combination equals the sum of the results, or pressing 2 buttons on the keypad, (including the Z, Y, X, L, and R because they are remappings of the keypads in more convenient locations,) will yield a third unpredictable result kind of like definitely the Intellivision controller and probably the Colecovision, 5200 and Arcadia controllers? If so, are the games designed so you don't have to press X+Y+Z or L+R. (If Street Fighter Grand Master Challenge were to be released, there'd go the supers in that case.) Does Primal Rage in the arcade use an X+Y+Z combination? If so, how do they deal with that at home, (at least on the Jaguar)?
  20. I just thought of something. I know enough about keypads to understand that you can't press any 2 random keypad buttons simultaneously and expect a predictable results, like a combination of the 2 buttons simultaneously, and instead get the pressing of a different unintended button. I know the Intellivision put one of 16 joystick directions on 4 pins (+180, +90, +45, +22.5) with a fifth pin is to indicate pressure on the joystick. With no signal from the fifth pin, the four directions are matricized to make 12 different buttons, one combination for pause, one combination for no keypad AND no joypad and 2 other undefined reserved functions. (can be used in emulators) I know when keypad buttons are matricized pressing more than one button throws off the pin combinations. On the intellivision, a simultaneous keypad and joystick press as well as 2 key together produce unpredictable results. 1) If the X, Y, Z, L, or R are pressed in any other combination other than singly, would that have unprecdictable results? 2) If not, is there something different in a Jag Pro controller compared to the Jag Standard controller? 3) If so, do all the games accommodate the fact that you only need one of those 5 buttons at one time? 4) If you can press multiples of the special buttons, but the Jag Pro is nothing special PCB wise about the controller, how would one explain the ability to press L+R or X+Y+Z and have that understood as multiple simultaneous independent buttons? If there is a satisfactory correct answer which suggests you don't need to pad hack a Jag Pro controller for full functionality, I'll just buy one Jag Pro Pad, or if I must buy two, offer one to the Jack Of All Games, Jamal "Zophar321" Nickens, and if we can't make a deal, either offer a repro or the Atari Made Pro Pad on Ebay, depending on the difference between a repro and a genuine Atari. If in order to get full functionality, you need a pro controller, either real or repro, I'll i use a repro as my pad hack PCB.
  21. http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com sells something called an Undamned adapter which goes from USB (including PS3) to DB15 for fight stick purposes. I can go from PS2 to PS3 easily. Now I just need to get fight stick DB-15 to Atari 5200. Does the Bohoki do this? Where can I find a Bohoki? I typed "Bohoki Atari 5200 adapter" on google and bing and found nothing relevant, either information wise, or purchase wise..
  22. Is it too late to buy 2 jag pads, or now that the minimum is reached, 1?
  23. If both are the case, I'll have pad hacked a standard Jag PAd, and depending on whether any games uses 3+ Jag Pro Pads or not, I'll have an genuine Atari one, one repro, and one extra repro one, which I'll sell to a practical collector (meaning his more about playing the games than buying to sell) I know who I think may or may not have Jaguar,
  24. If Gauntlet 2 and Super Sprint are like the arcade games they refer to, I assume they are at highest, 2-button games. Any 3+ player games that need 4 action buttons or more that would benefit from the Jag Pro Pad, or is 2 Jag Pro Pads all you need? Is Atari Karts 3+ players? That uses shoulder buttons.
  25. A couple questions about adding a pro pad and a pro stick: Just out of curiosity, can a standard Jag Pad be wired like Pro Pad, for the purposes of pad hacking a Jaguar controller, by letting 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 equal L, R, Z, Y, and X? If so I can use an extra 3-button one to wire like a 6/8 for fight games. Also has anyone tough about making a Saturn to Jaguar adapter so Saturn 8 button control pad will work on a Jaguar? I need a pad for Atari Karts for the L/R shoulder buttons. That wouldn't be too good on a stick. Of course the 12 digit keypad and the extra auxiliary button have to be mapped on a separate external device that accepts the Saturn controller and plugs into the Jaguar. But if those 2 are more inconvenient then I'll take 2 Jag Pro Pads at $60 apiece. One to keep and one to pad hack for my fight stick. If it's not too late for me to order 2. Also if anyone knows of a Saturn-to-Jaguar Pro adapter and/or if pad hacking a 3 button stick will work just as well as a 6, I'd like to know that, too. Also does any game that is 3 or more players work well for the Jag Pro Pad. (Except for the Jag Link games, which require multiple consoles,) The only 2, 3+ player games I know on the Jaguar are White Men Can't Jump and NBA Jam. I know NBA Jam, from the Arcade, SNES and Genesis version, uses 3 buttons. Does WMCJ use more buttons?
  • Create New...