tripletopper

I got a Colecovision with a Black and White Picture. It occaionally has rainbow banding and monochrome, and occasionally has a snowy or barred color picture. I read somewhere it my be my Sony Wega TV TV having trouble with RF. But Luckkilly I also have a Daewoo, and IT was in black and white too. So much for the Sony Wega having B?W problems. Here was the 2 websites where I read that informaiton on: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/200963-video-output-issues-with-my-colecovision/?hl=%2Bevilmaxwar&do=findComment&comment=2569949 https://shmups.system11.org/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41711 Then I read there's an analog thing you can screw to adjust the RF adapter correctly on an SNES RF internal box. I seee a hole in the RF box on the Colecovision. is there a way I can ajdust it without risking ruining the Colecovision. I don't feel comfortable as a surgeon running electricity through a naked, open CV. Any safe ways to do this where I can adjust on the fly and not risk damaging my system?

Are they New in Box, or are they actually used? Do you have any problems with games on them, like I found with Pataank? Any one else want to report SNES-> 3DO adapter incompatibilities? Mine is Pataank with the UFO 3D Zero SNES apapter By the way, is it just MY 3D Zero, or is it EVERY 3D Zero, or even ALL SNES->3DO adapters, because I heard there is more than one brand. And is it JUST Pataank, or are there other titles that these don't work with?

I was actually pitching that to Keith Robinson before he died. It's Netrogames. My method is different. Assuming my theory is correct, it can do it with the original ROM without making any net code, so it will work with Data East, Hanna Barbara, Disney, etc. games. Also it SHOULD work with only 56kb/s because you have sub-8ms ping time. Visit http://www.netrogames.com for details.

Hello, I got an update about Netrogames. After Keith Robinson died, Steve Roney looked at my Netrogames Idea and said tat 56k was too few bits/ second to adequately do it. First fo all I said I was assuming the Sprint Direct Connect had a maximum speed of 56 kb/s becuase it was only meant as a voice network. ut I showed, theat if you're within a 2400 km limit, the low ping of Sprint Direct Connect will connect 2 systems fast enough so that you don't have to send extra data like the plethora of extra data required in most modern games. I was assuming the only thing transmitted was joystick data and random number synching data, and using the power f the "straight line network" to beat the clock of a half frame needed to transmit data and process it in time for the next frame. Second of all, if Steve Roney says he can't do it in 56 kb/s, the good news is, according to Tex Tiexera, the Executive Engineer at Sprint, said that a) low ping data is possible with Direct Connect without any new burdens on the network, and b) Direct Connect can do as fast data speeds as the Sprint network allows along the path. I think the network is like 99.9% covered for 3G, which is 500 kb in/150 kb out and over 95% of the nation has 4G LTE with is anywhere from 10-100 MB in, 3-30 Mb out. Literally the only difference between a traditional connection and a Sprint Direct Connect connection is the advantage of straight line data, and the disadvantage (Sprint would call it a "feature") of only working on a "Sprint to Sprint direct connection " with no foreign networks to bounce the signal. If Steve Roney is reading this, this is the way you networkize the old Intellivision games, make it feel like the original locally with no lag, and no add any new code, which means third party INTV cartridges can be played online because you're not using third party game code to make the network work, so you're not creating an unauthorized derivative work. Of course to go beyond a half light-frame (2400 km assuming 60 F/s, the distance is longer if less Hz rate) of distance one way, you might have to make a derivative network code. But this would be a start.

I posted this topic on the Bally Alley email community. Maybe some other people who aren't handy like I'm not would want these Atari <-> Bally converters.

The most important ones you didn't touch on. 9 PIn button flipping and Atari<-> Astrocade converters. I'm trying to connect my special PS2 fight stick to an Astorcade, and I can so far get it to PS2-> Genesis. And previous experience with the GameCube Port Adapter for Wii U works chaining a PS2-> Game Cube -> Switch (via Wii U device) so chaining is possible and usually works in most cases. I suspect the only way you'll consider doing them is if they are straight pin remap wirings. No chips, no other electronic components. By the way, I don't need paddle functions on the 2600-> Astrocade adapter. If I want to play an Astrocade paddle game, I'd use an Astrocade paddle. Only joystick is needed, at least by me, thank you. The website shown above has the Atari and Astorcade mapping combinations. I'l even copy them myself. To quote glakonian website: The numbering above is reverse to the industry standard. This has made it difficult when working with pre-numbered DB9 ends.Below is the matching pinouts. Bally/Astrocade Atari Standard Controller port Controller port 1. NC (No Connection) 1. Up 2. Down 2. Down 3. Left 3. Left 4. Right 4. Right 5. Trigger 5. Paddle Potentiometer B 6. Up 6. Fire Button 7. Potentiometer end 7. +5v (Paddle end) 8. Ground 8. Ground 9. 50K Potentiometer (Knob) 9. Paddle Potentiometer A DB9 Male Port: DB9 Female Plug: 1 2 3 4 5 5 4 3 2 1 6 7 8 9 9 8 7 6 An Atari-Bally controller converter may be constructed. The connections are listed here: A1-B6 A2-B2 A3-B3 A4-B4 A5-NC B1-NC A6-B5 A7-B7 A8-B8 A9-B9 .... where (A)tari (B)ally. Thus adapters can be made to connect an Atari compatible controller to the Bally/Astrocade or vice versa. Please note that the Bally/ Atari/ Commodore paddles use different value potentiometers and additional work is necessary to make one controller work with another console. Adding A resistor in parallel will help if the sweep (Max turn) is too long. Other? Also note that the Bally/ Astrocade port does not provide voltage. Thus autofire circuits will not work when plugged into the port. But the ambitious tinkerer may build an autofire circuit tapping the light pen port.

Hey Nurmix. I assume the Intellivision adapters are straight rewiring adapters for various things, and require no programming. The FB-> INTV1 is basicially a 9-pin to 9-pin but in a proprietary format fo the INTV 1. You also state you make FB controls-> INTV 2 machine adapters. Out of curiosity: Do you custom make any other combination of INTV1, INTV 2, and INTV FB? I assume since it's just a wiring job and now you do customs for $1 more per wire than a multi-unit run, here's a couple I'm looking to get done. Have you considered other adapters, like what I need, which I will pay the normal price for: 1) 2 Atari 2600 lefty adapters (plug it in a standard 2600 stick and the console, rotate 90 degrees clockwise and play lefty) 2) An Atari 2600 Joystick to Bally Astrocade machine adapter (assumijng either a 7800, Colecovision, or Genesis controller would work just as well as 2600 stick.) If you need the pinout direction for an Atari Controller to Astrocade Machine adapter: visit http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.htmlto read pinout instructions. I need this for my PS2->Genesis fight stick adapter and PS2 fight stick. 3) Maybe, a reverse of #2, an Astrocade Joystick to Atari Console adapter for using the pistol grip on 2600 games. 4) I'm asking this in theory, not in practice, because I have a universal soluiton for all my controls, but... if changing the button functions is as simple as pin rewiring, a "Button Flipper" for the following 2 button consoles: Atari 5200, Atari 7800, NES, Colecovision Standard, Master System, and Turbo Grafx 16. Tutankham, Pac-Land, and Side Arms need a button flipper if playing with a right handed joystick. If one of them requires something other than a simple pin swap, just say it's not that easy. (P.S. Do I only get the bulk discount on the 2 Left wires because they are 2 of a kind, or do I get a discount on all for these adapters?)

The reason why I'm looking for a PCB wiring is becuase the 3D Zero SNES adapter doesn't accurately do one of the 5 games I own. PaTaank is the one where the controller acts funny no matter where in the chain it is, even if it's the only controller in the chain. I would get a tototek, except I have 2 problems wit it. 1, no dasiy chain, and 2, needs to configurable so that P and X can eb middle punch.

Hey Ed of Edladdin: That was mainly a stream-of-consciousness, where at first I was advocating a digital joystick for the 90% of games where either controls need to be instantly shifted on a frame, or have to find the exact center or else you'll be screwed, and then I saw, there is no such thing as a Swiss Army Knife for the 5200, ie one controller that can do everything. The 3 games I mentioned, Star Wars, Kaboom, Missile Command are best with the default 5200 controller where there is no self-centering. I used the case of Warlords on Atari Flashback for Xbox One where adding self-centering when not intended can ruin you. Then I thought, if it had self centering, would that make it an effective combined digital/analog joystick? i thought of the case of Galaxian, where both a) the x axis is analog in 5 ranges, fast left, slow left, stop, slow right, and fast right, and b) there is a benefit to "finding the center" easier, which I believe you don't want to move between two bullets with barely enough width for one ship. I honestly only played Dreadnaught Factor on an Atari 800 bootleg floppy, so I only experienced it with a 2600/800 digital stick. I guess both varying velocity/acceleration rates come in handy in that game. It can come in handy if you're used to it. Probably the best solution to the those who want a Digital stick is a Genesis and/or 7800 to 5200 adapter (for which I can use a Tototek PS2-> Genesis adapter, and plug THAT in the Genesis to 5200 adapter, along wiht YOUR Genesis to 7800 adapter, which is the only one to work with 2 button games.) with either built in keypad or allow for a real working 5200 controller as a backup keypad. Maybe it can have a 15-pin port with one of 3 things attachable to it, a new keypad made just for this device, a real 5200 joystick, or a "button mapper" for a Genesis 6 button controller, where any button can equal Top, Bottom, or any of the 15 keypad presses. Here are a couple possibilities for using the extra buttons of the Genesis. If Defender uses the keypad for an extra function like Hyperspace, that can be the C button, or this one game I remember for the Atari 800 (bootleg floppy again) which was probably a 5200 game originally. (I think it was Countermeasure, but I'm not sure) where you had to type in combinations of keyboard buttons 1 2 3 in a 3 digit combination before the atomic bomb went off. You can go to the bunker early, but you'd be guessing codes until you luck out or die. The preliminary part of the game was finding pieces of code by shooting stuff and other non-sepeciific stuff I remember. The countdown code was the most memorable thing on it. If you found one piece of the code, you can guess all 9 possible codes as guesses in time easily. At least on level 1. Does level 2 and beyond have either more possible "letters of the alphabet" or "letters in the word" or both? But I assume for every digital game, a self-centering analog joystick would work just as well. I guess for Galaxian and Dreadnaught the self centering analog would be perfect. If it doesn't a nine-pin for Genesis/7800 (2600 won't work for some games, too few buttons.) would be a good addition too. Also about the Colecovision controller. you have a 12 button physical keypad in your "wire-up board" kit. What would I do if I want to wire up the 1 , 2 and 3 buttons for the doors in Mouse Trap and the 5 for Dog to my fight stick, but also have the keypad for level selection. Speaking of Colecovision, have you tried your Colecovision Super Action Clone Stick and/or board on Q Bert's Qubes and Activision Decathlon? Those are 2 games I only got working with a real Standard CV controller and not a Real CV Super Action controller. Q Bert's Qubes has a bug where if I press a keypad button to select my skill level, and I don't release it instantly, the cubes go nuts and it ends in a runtime error and freezes. Also in Activision Decathlon, the jump/throw button is either alternating on/off automatically and/or being permenantly held down, therefore my jumps and throws are always at the earliest possible point and not even close to the optimal angle. Does your CV stick and/or board do those games correctly? Have you noticed those problems on a real CV Super Action stick? A couple other things for the future, a Saturn -> Jaguar Pro (plus external aux buttons and keypad) adapter, a 4-way/8way joystick for Intelliviison and/or a Genesis to Intellivision adapter, for both original INTV 2 plugs as well as "flashback modded" INTV 1's and 3's. If you make enough of the joysticks, and have enough of the formats, maybe an Omni Classic stick makes sense, where the stick is a Naked DB25 wit one wire-per-control and then an appropriate adapter for each system. Buy what you want and reuse the joystick and save money per console. Here's a couple pictures on my website of how to easilty make an ambidextrous stick without compromising contours.: http://56ok.org/Ambbidextrous/index.htm Finally, your cheapest product, a pin swapper to connect Atari 2600 (or Colecovision, or 7800, or Master System, or Genesis) Joysticks to Astrocade Machines, and a separate product for vice versa (in one-button mode). I say don't bother with the paddle, (or if you do, offer a cheaper Joystick-only version. The Astrocade padddles need to double for an Atari, and the Atari Paddles in some Bally games need a joystick too. I don't know how to build one myself, and you';re the only person who types good English who works on these old American Systems simultaneously. Plus there's electronic issues that I don't understand. the website where the pinouts are at is http://www.glankonian.com/~lance/Hack.html

Some of these games look simple in gameplay compared to what the Jaguar did back in its day. Maybe there is hope for my "Finger Dancing Bombs" game, which is kind of like twister for your 2 hands. Press a keypad button with a keypad, then while holding it, press another, and another, up to 6, then take one finger off and put it on a seventh. I thought it was too simnple of a game to include in a stand-alone cartridge, I thought msot of these games would be as complex as a SNES or Genesis game. Apparently (though looks may be deceiving) some of these look simpler game-play-wise. I thought it would have to be included in a minigame compilation called "Going to the Party Jag". Mario Party always showcased their microphones, their wii mote, their touchpad, their gyroscope, etc. Sonic Shuffle showcased the VMU as a cheap privacy screen for secretly picking cards and mixing them up to pass a Robotnik card on someone else if they try picking one of your cards. This "Finger Dancing Bombs"game would demonstrate the feature, if what the neo-Jag-Pro controller guy is saying is true, that all 12 keypad buttons are independent, and not reliant on only one being pressed at a time. If that's true, then this would be the perfect concept to showcase that fact. Ideas are cheap, anyone on this forum use it if they want. I hope you'll be nice enough to credit me with the concept AND if for some strange reason there is a net verison of the Jaguar with downloadable ROM and Retrobrews are included, a small percentage fo the revenue would be included, along with this advice, more people would play it if it were free, so the only way to raise revenue, assumning the day the download Jaguar comes and can be monetized with either purchases or commercials, so put a commercial that changes via the web every 15 minutes it's played, but ONLY whenever there's a convenient stopping point, (commercial cliffhangers are good for TV, bad for games) on a virtual web-enabled Jag console. more people will try it if it's free, and the more it's tried, the more you get paid. As to the possibility of a Web-enabled neo-Jaguar, visit http://www.netrogames.com to see my concept of using a low ping connection to turn ANY console, from the 2600 to the 360, into a Web console, even if the original code was not web enabled. Sprint said their Direct Connect Network is the perfect network for a low-ping connection. They just need someone to pull the trigger. Keith Robinson asked Steve Roney, just before Keith died, whether it was worth pulling the trigger. Steve said the fac that I work with 56k connectoin makes him weary. but the point is I didn't know if Direct Connect speeds were dial-up-equivalent, or whether they were the same as their non-Direct Connect Data speeds. I was going off a worst case scenerio, that they were dial up, Roney said you need more speed. I was told by Tex Tiexera, the Engineering Executive of Sprint, they can be both high-speed AND low-ping simultaneously. So Steve, or any one else who thinks this is a decent project, if the only reason you thought it wouldn work was becuase of my conservative asssumption of 56k you've got the bandwidth., Now here's a way to test it: There are emulators with generic web-networking. Normally they feel "skatey", meaning more proactive and less reactive, because of high ping time. If Direct Connect Data lowers the ping time to 1 ms/300 km of distance between the 2 players, and doing that makes it less "skatey", then that's the proof of my idea working. Any 2 people who live within 2400 towered-land-path km between each other and have Sprint Direct Connect, try it, and see if it works. Try an emulator which is normally considered "Skatey" or more proactive, less reactive. Then apply a Direct Connect connection, see if that makes it easier. By the way, Steve Roney, the reason I assumed only 56k was because I didn't know if I had more than 56k to work with because Direct Connect was intended originally as a voice service, so maybe ONLY 56k was allocated to that type of connection. Since Tex Tiexera has confirmed that Direct Connect is just as high speed as regular Sprint network connections, just quicker ping times, maybe you'll consider it now. The only drawback is a Sprint-to-Sprint connection, but Sprint is the only ones consistently offering it anyway, so if you're going to do this, you'll have have a unified service anyway.

I think I'm kind of insane for having a 2600 Jr when a 7800 would do perfectly fine, just on the off chance the 7800 cannot boot the Supercharger. I heard the Supercharger is the test of whether you have a fully compatible 7800 or not. Maybe i should try that tonight and see whether or not I'm insane for keeping a 2600 Jr. EDIT: My vote is inaccurate, I also have a Gemini, but not the original Gemini Controllers, RF adapter, Wye adapter, or power cord. Luckily Atari controllers and Power Plugs and the RCA cable, and the RCA-> RF cable work fine, and the Wye adpater is for using 2 Gemini controllers as 2 paddles in one joyport. Maybe I can sell it to a friend who has "collector's edition consoles" for the Dreamcast, N64, and beyond. He says he has more systems, but he doesn't have an Intellivision, An Astrocade, An Odyssey 2, An Arcadia 2001, a Supercharger, a 5200, and possibly a 7800. And the only reason he has a Colecovision is because a relative of his took his Vectrex and Colecovision back when he was a kid after his parent's divorce, (he also lost the Sega 3D glasses becuase the same neighbor of ours who borrowed ourt Colecovision, that I had to go and recollect, forgot to give them back.) and I gave him one as a gift when I was able to complete a set in multiple thrift store finds as a small payback token of appreciation for winning me an Original Xbox in 2003-4 ish, and an Xbox 360 around 2008 ish, through his great gameplay of both Life to the Power of X, and Bomberman Live 360. When (looking more like "If" these days,) I get married, I'll pick him as my best man, and I'll give him and myself matching Vectrexes, but that assumes I get a good enough job where I can easily afford $600-800 for 2 working ebay Vectrexes. Such a special occasion deserves a special gift from his past from before I knew him. He wins on physical consoles, I win on formats.

Ed of Edladdin,a funny thing. If you want to build a Digital controller, one that would benefit 90% of the games, then maybe you should buy a Competition Pro 5200 Joystick. it works for every game except for not working as intended on analog games, and a couple of digital games, but I think I might have a solution to it. The Competition Pro registers a fixed voltage to a constant Maximum north or south, when pressed, or verticaly neutral when not pressed. Horizontal is similar. The Original Atari 5200 has a circular restrictor. It was designed to physically as opposed to computationally compensate for the "Diagonal Speed Boost" Your velocity is the same in any direction when pressed to the edge. That's the way most analog sticks are designed. The Apple IIe analog joysticks had a square restrictor, which let you actuate maximum North and maximum East at the same time. The problem comes when you're mixing technologies. Competiiton Pro assumes Square, meaning 100% N and 100% E simultaneously. For most games this isn't a problem, but there are a couple games where it SHOULD work, but doesn't because of this flaw. I think Popeye and Mountain King were 2 games. Obviously analog games aren't a problem. There is a competition pro on ebay which they could test the second button becuase they had second button problems on the orgiinal 5200 joystick you had to plug in didn't work for the seller. We know how to install buttons. The secret is physical digital to electronic analog converters. If the problem games work by dialing back the voltages to 70% (Because .7 squared = .49 and .49+.49=.98 which is almost a maximum radius of 1), then we have to test to see if the cardinals actuate at the 70% level. If it does, then you have a universal 5200 Digital controller. If some digital games don't work with the dampened voltages, then a switch can be used to switch between the voltages, guaranteeing universal compatibility. Or maybe a voltage alterer on the X and Y axis which fits in between a Competition Pro and the 5200 system, that can be taken on and off as needed. I personally think the 5200 analog games are fine as they are with a non-self-centering joystick. Don't believe me? Try playing a quick paddle game like Breakout or Warlords on the Xbox One Flashback with the self-centering analog pad. THOSE games suck with a self centering stick. The digital games benefit HIGHLY from self centering. Probably the only game that would benefit from the analog self-centering stick is Galaxian, with 2 analog speeds and a need to stop on a dime. That would come in handy. It has analog relative directions, and the ability to stop is key. Also one last thing about mirroring buttons, games like Tutankham have a left fire and right fire, and would be reversed if you follow the "index-to-index rule" where the main button is the index finger one, So a switch to alternate to swap L and R in the case of the Coleco or 7800, or T and B for the 5200 would be handy. If not built in, then a pin swapping add on for those who need it. That's the reason why the Sega MAster System joystick was poorly received. It was right handed, but didn't follow the index-to-index remapping rule. You were middle-finger rapid-fire pumping with that joystick. Giving yourself the bird .) Tiring yourself out. If I'm wrong, if there any ANALOG games (meaning distance from center affects your gameplay) that can benefit from self centering besides Galaxian, I'd like to hear it. But I guess if it's for Galaxian alone, as well as true digital games, it's worth it. Even though a Genesis to 5200 adapter would be better for digital games, because I can buy a PS2-> Genesis adapter. Just showing for the record that it may come in handy for digital joysticks, and most analog games are better with the default 5200 stick, (Missile Command, Kaboom, and Star Wars work better with no self-centering), so don't even bother trying to create the universal control. Probably analog self centering is just as handy as a true digital stick, but if you want to invest in a digital 5200 stick, with possibly the auxiliary button not working, depending on if the 5200 controller works on that button or not, try talking this guy down on the fact the the aux button is unknown to work: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Competition-Pro-Joystick-for-the-Atari-5200-tested-w-additional-notes-pro-joy/173355766445?hash=item285ccf12ad:g:q1IAAOSw28pa8IfD:sc:USPSPriority!44273!US!-1 The button technology is not the hard part, the digital stick to analog signal converter IS.

You couldn't just put a standard/mini/micro SD card you can insert in the Astrocade, like an Everdrive is for the Genesis and Master System. It looks like you're going to have to disassemble an Astrocade to insert the part. And I know a rule: If it ain't broke, DON'T FIX IT. What would the cost of an Astrocade Everdrive cost vs an Omni cart. If it's the same price, the Everdrive can load homebrew cart games, whereas the games on the Omni cart are fixed.

Another thing Adam's house did. I've been having problems with using an Atari Track N Field controller with the Colecoviison game, The Activision Decathlon. I've got great times in the 1500. I try using a DB9 pin splitter to get the # and * active, and have been having problems with it since. He told me to "pull the joyport 1" which I thought implied that the part was removable and re-insertable. As it turned out it was hard wired soldered. He later told me to "poll" the joyport, which had no meaning to me. So Now I'm stuck with a "mostly working colecovision", except for joyport 1, which is physically pulled out. I also have 3 "mostly working" Super Action Controllers. 2 I'm looking to get cleaned and minorly fixed if necessary, and a third I'm looking to get prepped for a hookup to a multi-console fight stick. I've been trying to call Adam's house, and It's been 3 months since I wrote him, and I got no response. Would someone else like to take my mostly working Colecovision in return for labor on my Colecovision Super Action Controllers? (plus or minus some paypal offset) Any takers?

Most people read the most recent posts. The stuff on Post #1 is for the newcomers to the thread. I never saw the email, thinking read the latest posts. If the update are on Post #1, it might get ignored if you read just the most recent posts. Maybe Starwander should have updated it (and actually did) BOTH within the thread at the most recent point as well as the beginning. I see more updates within the conversation at the most recent point, as well as updates at post #1.

When I buy the two repro Jag Pros, I'll have one real and 2 Repros. Am I right that the only 3+ player games and White Men Can't Jump, and NBA Jam, as well as games you use the Jaglink for? I know NBA Jam doesn't need a Propad, and if I need another Jaguar, I'll meet up, or use http://www.netrogames.com once someone helps me get it invented. Does playing White Men Can't jump with a Pro Pad give you an advantage? If I was wrong about my first question, do any of these other 3+ player games on one machine use a Jag Pro pad as an advantage? If the maximum you need is 2, I'll check with my only other Jaguar-owner-via-thrift-store friend. If he wants one, I'll sell it for $60 to my friend. Otherwise, ONE REPRO on Ebay unopened on day 1. I'll keep my genuine Jag Pro Pad, the amount it will go down is slight, but time is short and the rebound will be good and too quick. Plus probably most of today's Jaguar Fans know about this, so I just have to hope enough people will pay $60+ if they don't know about Starwinder's Repros.

I sent it to the Jaguarprocontroller@gamil.com too. I sent it to the starwinder email later. You get a response from the Starwinder one faster.

Starwinder, notice I took that back on my post after that. After thinking about it more, I thought that the Atari name would hold it's value and probably if it drops it will be for a week at the most, the exact length of an Ebay auction. I'll keep my genuine Jag Pad, buy a pair, keep one, see if a friend who owns a Jaguar wants one, and if not, sell 1 repro on Ebay. I can't think of any possible game of 3+ players that can remotely benefit from having 3 Jag Pro pads. So 3 is one too many. And as we discussed before, pad hacking a Standard Jag Pad for a fight stick works just as well as a Pro pad, so why waste the money when you can wire 1, 3, 4, 5, and 6 of a standard Jag Pad to the action buttons? By the way, any retro brewers, planning to make "Going Jag: The Jaguar Party game"? If so, all these games need something to show off unique features, so the 6-finger bomb I mentioned earlier this conversation might be a good minigame that demonstrates the fact that, unlinke Intelliviison, and possibly Colecovision, Arcadia 2001 and the 5200, the keypad is made up of of 12 independent buttons, and not a matricized coded pad, meant to be taken as a unit and having multiple buttons pressed at once would have unpredictable results iike may Intellivison games, where you can either press the joystick one way and any combination of buttons OR one key on the keypad, but not more than that.

Actually, the more I thought about it, there could be a chance if the Jaguar community thinks these controllers are bad that the genuine one will keep their value. But since I only need 1 Jag Pro controller to play any 2 player pro controller game anyway, and you don't need 3, the cool factor of owning one genuine Atari Jag Pro outweighs the extra bucks. Also, there might be a chance the Jaguar RePros are so close that the only difference is the Atari logo, that it might be better to hold onto the real thing, get 2 repros early, and sell one repro and hopefully get more than half price the 2 repro price for 1 repro before the market adjusts. I guess you have to factor how much you value the Atari name, and the genuine Atari make. If I sell 1 of the 2 repros early, I might get significantly more than $60 if it's one of the first ones. Plus I might regret selling my genuine JagPro, because in another 25 years the genuine ones may increase if these Repros proliferate. The drop in the genuine article my just have a temporary drop. And I don't want to try to feel the bottom of the genuine market. But seriously, if you want to play the ebay market, sell a genuine Atari now, and buy a genuine one after the repros drop the price of the genuine ones, but before the genuine article is more sought out for the Atari name. The question is do you want to feel for the bottom. But seriously this will help fans buy the true Atari ones too with this temporary price drop that will come on with a certain percentage being "practical collectors" in terms of playing games, and not "value collectors" in terms of turning over the price. I personally decided not to participate, just being glad I bought a genuine Jag Pro for $20-40 before 2005 and holding on to genuine Atariana. Feeling for the bottom takes too much work. Just shortly after the Jag RePros are released the price of Genuine Atari ones should drop, because now they are given a second option. Finally, follow your own gut. I'm not getting paid for this advice, and I'm just spitballing. You should follow your own gut on this. If you think the Atari named ones will drop temporarily, then sell before the repros come out, and buy genuine shortly after. I'm not because I know my JagPro works and don't want to get one with non-working buttons.

How many extras are made? I didn't see this news until I was looking up a PS2-> Jaguar adapter in March. If I emailed in late March, am I still on the day 1 list, or are there not enough in back stock? I need to know, so I can either deal a real Atari Jaguar controller to Zophar321, or sell my genuine Atari Jaguar Pro controller on ebay before the release of the repros, while the price is still $150-250 and then save the money ad buy 2 for $120 + $5 shipping. If i were to predict the ebay market, these controllers will bring the ebay prices down, and Atari brands will just be a little more than the repro controllers, just for the collectable Atari name on the controllers. And I could pick up a genuine Atari Jag Pro for cheaper.

The reason I am asking is because I am getting a custom fight stick made, and was wondering were there enough games that used the X button as an auxiliary and the P as pause where it would be wiser to put X in the middle punch position, or enough of both types where a switch is advisable. I'm planning ahead. Are there enough games where X is the preferred controller in the "middle punch slot"? I'm afraid of accidentally pausing in a game, and think maybe P should be put to the side as a pause button should be. if nothing else, a switch might be handy for that. Therefore mapping X to it would prevent premature pausing. I heard Primal Rage is one. Any others? Or am I being too much of a worrywart and should use the MP=P standard used in the Panasonic Joystick? Samurai Shodown uses 4 buttons. Which 4? A, B, C, and maybe L or R.

What about the games? What do other games that use the 6-button think the Middle Punch button is? P or X? The 3DO fight stick from Panasonic have the middle punch as P, not X. Street Fighter wants the P. What do other games want?

I have the most experience with the Colecovision, the left action (or top on Super action) button was usually considered the main and should be mapped to the index finger, unless you have a game like Tutankham, where left means left and right means right. Atari 6200 is truly ambidextrous and symmetric with both buttons being on both sides. Is the bottom or top considered the main button for the purposes of rapid firing? How about the INTV? (I suspect it's the top button because it's accessed by your index finger for both hands) Also is the left or right bottom button considered button 2, with the remaining button 3, (except for the Tutankham case). I suspect the 7800 the left button is the main button if there is a difference, based on what I know about One On One, Is this a general consensus? I'm trying to decide what maps to what as a default left hand setting. Of course I'm not married to one arrangement, as I'm going to program some flexibility in my fight stick..

I was wondering what gams on the INTV, CV, and 5200 are fast action enough and use a keypad button where it would be wise to map from 1-4 special buttons on a 9-button fight stick. 5200 has 2 buttons, INTV has 3, CV has at most 4. The one I know is Mouse trap for CV and INTV, where the index button is dog, and the other 3 buttons can be the 3 doors. Defender might need it for simultaneous fire, smart bomb, and hyperspace. And other major ones that would be handy to have 4 action buttons and 4 other keypad buttons in GAMEPLAY (not menu selection). I also have and extra button for 5200 pause/CV Star for pausing. Any other games that need quick access to an extra button? If so, which buttons? I need to know to see if there are common mapping patterns that work well for the purposes of button and pin mapping. I know a Jaguar uses 1,3,4,5 and 6 for L R Z Y and X. So you don't have to ruin a pro controller to have a fight stick. Also I'm using a 9-pin or 15 pin Y adapter for plugging a keypad simultaneously into my fight stick, so I don't need access to every key to be mapped to a button.

You can keep the NES VCR style machine. If you can follow a few simple directions, you can install a "blinking light win". I haven't tried it but most independent internet reviewers say it works wonders for all licensed NES games. Tengen cartridges may have a tough time coming out, but the solution for that is a Game Genie. No more bent pins is their claim, and bent pins are the number one reason for blowing and playing with the NES tray. PS. Someone should make a "non-cheat" version of a pin extender, which is basically a Game Genie without the cheat properties. Also it says it has a region and unauthorized lockout chip. Would Japanese games work with a proper physical JPN game-> US system adapter.