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Everything posted by tripletopper

  1. You should just keep any classic gaming systems around you want and get a CRT TV from a thrift store. There's one reason that even if you could hook up old systems, it's better to do it with a CRT TV, lag. Granted modern games have worse network lag than TV lag so it won't be noticed, and if most games can compensate for 50-100 ms lag, it can surely compensate for 16 ms screen lag, but old games are where you notice. Take a game you have to react to something because there's some randomness. Or take a game you have a pattern timed to the background music, (hence why older game music is more memorable than today's stuff.) If the timing feels right, you've got a low ping TV like a CRT TV. If you have to guess on a random game, or if you press at the right time according to music, but it comes up late, or if you have to shift everything a a beat earlier, that's a sign of high ping. Even the best HD TVs in minimal processing modes is 16 ms or one frame in a 60 FPS game. Most TVs are designed to make game look good, not play fast. I think I might have a Virtual Console tip on Wii/Wii U. Select 480 i, and go through on an S-Ideo, Composite or Component connection. Hook that up to a CRT TV. If it feels just like hooking an original NES to that screen, then this is a hidden way to play NES classics in Low Ping Mode. FInally, not sure if Ataris can be hooked up to 4K TV. A year or 2 ago a local-to-me low-powered analog TV station turned into a low-powered digital station. Maybe soon there is no way to use an antenna port to hook up a 2600, because all modern tuners use ATSC, or NTSC. Your RF TV must either be an analog, or analog/digital switchable tv. But the easiest way to turn an RF system into a composite system is to plug it into a VCR. It's light gun accurate. I've had problems with light guns pushed into a DVD recorder which does convert it to S-Video and or Component Video, but you should split it through a powered RF splitter and send one end straight into an Analog TV, if you want pixel-perfect light gun timing. Otherwise timing is thrown off not enough to notice it in most game play (< 1 ms), but enough to throw off a light gun(>55 ns at 480i resoluiton, limit is less with more pixels and fps). And for those who want to play a light gun game as old as the original Xbox and PS2 or older, a CRT TV, especially ones with S-Video and component are vital. CRT TVs draw pictures one pixel at a time, whereas Modern TVs have a steady stream of light on all pixels at once, which "pigments" block to create anything which isn't white, and change every frame. Most retailers can't get rid of them. So ask Best Buy to put you on a "buy a recycled CRT TV" list so they can make a little money instead of having to destroy it. Or check thrift stores. If you love retro games, there is no substitute for a CRT TV.
  2. Will the 2600-dapter II work in Paddle, Driving controller, Keypad, and Trackball mode for Playstation 4 and Xbox One Atari Flashback Online? I don't like the standard analog thumbpad for Crystal Castles, Centipede, or Warlords and Video Olympics when I played them with a PC USB thumbpad. (Or do they use the Sears name of "Pong Sports" because the word "Olympics" is copyrighted by the International Olympic Committee?)
  3. I Don't know, i've seen devices released for 5 or less games, ROB, Vaus Controller, Maracas, that Xbox controller for the uber Mech game, Bongos, Active Life Pad, Dance Dance Revolution Mats, The Xbox Light Gun, Pump It Up pads, Kid Vid, Intellivoice. All you need is an authorized adapter that accepts two 2600 9-pin connector inputs outputted through USB. I know some console shooters work with a standard USB keypad and mouse, so why not connect real 2600 controllers. It might work even as a generic USB device, (not sure) I got 2 pairs of paddles, 2 Driving controls, 2 Trackballs, 2 Star Radiers touch pads, one XE light gun, and an itch to use them in head-to-head competition. Crystal castles will play horribly with the analog stick. and Warlords is a pain to control with the analog sticks, especially the arcade and 2600 versiosn and not the new Xbox verison which was made for the analog pad. By the way, any takers on head-to-head Atari friending for online gameplay? Either contact me privately on Xbox Live, or post your name for all to see here. Info is located above.
  4. Will there either be, a) An Xbox and Playstation version of Joysticks, Paddles, Trackballs, Steering controllers, and keypad, (Modern TVs wont allow light guns for the single light gun game on the ilist, unless there is a USB-to-RF out adapter) or b) an authorized adapter that lets you plug in said original Atari controllers? Also, wondering if Red Baron is the "unlicensed version of Star Wars" insofar as this uses a flight yolk and both vector 3D games, and if so, will there be a flight yolk for modern machines? Also I'll Start a public "opponents on call list" for Atari Flashback online head-to-head games I'm Brian Ciesicki, Xbox Live name "TripleTopper321". I Will accept on-call challenges if I'm by my Xbox between 9AM and Midnight New York time. Both copies already reserved. I'll pick it up November 1st.
  5. The Coleco Stick in a 7800 during a 1 button game like Asteroids works perfectly fine. But play a 2 button game like Choplifter and it boots right aways to the main screen and neither the fire or turn button work. Hopefully this can give good information for someone making something that converts between 7800 and Colecovision. Got to try the Super Action controller.
  6. I Don't know how to fix it, but if there was a way to do that in a "middle connector" to take a 7800 and convert it to colecovision standard, it would be part of my Ambidextrous Brick-Stick setup. (like a street fighter stick, except made for every system from 2600, Channel F, And Astrocade to One, PS4, and Wii U I've got ways to convert it to many systems. A simple 7800-> Coleco Standard converter would work, if you can do something in the connector to allow both buttons to fire simultaneously. I'd hate to permanently ruin a perfectly good 7800 Joypad. But the reverse isn't as nice. I think it only does a one button mode. I don't know what it does on a 2 button game. I should try that. Also regardless of whether you're left- or right handed, the Super Action controller is the best controller for regular games, except Activision Decathlon (if flaws by always jumping early with either minimum or maximum angle.) Q*Bert's Qubes (Holding the level select keypad button for one too many frames causes visual glitches on SA controllers), and maybe Turankham unless you can think Top Fire=left and Second Fire = right and both = bombs, But Tutankham has a different problem with brick sticks. In most other games where there's a main and and aux fire, main is on the index and aux is on the middle. But doing this for Tutankham (and Front Line) makes it so that it's right button to fire left and left button to fire right, (or middle finger button to rotate left and ring finger button to rotate right) if you've got no way to reverse the buttons. You must have reversible buttons for "stick-right" or else you'll have these button problems.
  7. Both 7800 buttons work on the CV games, so your conversion should work as well. About 7800 Joypads and Sticks working with Colecovision. It only works as long as you don't need to press both buttons simultaneously. The ultimate test of that is Tutankham. If you can fire left and right, but not do the smart bomb, then you have a 7800 controller. If you CAN do the smart bomb by pressing both buttons, then you HAVE a Colecovision controller. So only use the 7800 if you don't need to press both buttons simultaneously. The funny thing is I Y-ed a 7800 gamepad and a Coleco standard controller, the Coleco controller works well including pressing both buttons for a bomb, and the keypad works for selecting, but the 7800 controller had that flaw of not pressing both buttons together, but otherwise the 7800 controller worked well.
  8. You CAN use a 7800 Joypad/stick with the Colecovision, WITH ONE CAVEAT: You can't press both buttons at the same time. So Tutankham will not let you do Smart Bombs, Space Fury you can't shoot and thrust simultaneously. But if you don't need both buttons pressed at the same time, a 7800 controller is an acceptable substitution. Hooking Coleco controls to a 7800 doesn't do anything right with the fire. Also a Coleco Super Action Controller has both roller directions mapped to 2 separate buttons on a Genesis. If it's reversible, a Genesis controller maps to one CV button and the roller pad.
  9. I don't think you can steer the shot, or at least not by moving the paddle. I move my ship with the paddle, and the bullet goes in straight lines. maybe left and right on the stick would move it. Never tried it.
  10. Here's my Exitor's Revenge video, posting a score of 5625. I looked up Exitor's Revenge and Youtube thought I looked up Editor's Revenge.
  11. Thanks, I'll give that a try. I just have to print myself out some instruciton on how to do it. I've repaired Coleco Super Action Controllers and Astrocade Potentiometers, so why not?
  12. What's easier, getting Arcade style sticks working with INTV 1s or getting Coleco Games working with INTV2's. I assume with an INTV 2, if someone knows the wiring, one can hook up the joystick to the 8 disc endpoints, the buttons to the 4 actions buttons and a touch tone phone to each individual button for 1-9, *, 0, #, and plug it directly into an INTV 2 port. I would need an old touch tone landline phone to be disassembled to wire to the joypad for games that use the joypad and stick and buttons. Or maybe I can insert another controller from an actual system so I can use that system's appropriate overlays. But the INTV 1 can play every INTV game, and I've got 4 Coleco INTV games. I would also prefer the mod to be a temporary mod, where it's as simple as inserting and removing an Intellivoice-like device as opposed to operating on the machine. What's easier to mod without affecting the historical value of an INTV, modifying an INTV 1 to play external controllers, or modifying an INTV 2 to accept Coleco and other third party games? I believe number 2 is simpler. You just need an "in-between" cartridge, like an Intellivoice, to add a title screen to games without title screens that collapse. And pressing any button advances to the first line of the game while circumventing the INTV 2 lockout. You just insert it for games trouble booting on a INTV 2, and remove it with ones that don't. You don't need to worry about Intellivoice conflicts because none of the games that don't boot use the Intellivoice. And any homebrew Intellivoice games can be programmed to circumvent the Coleco lockouts by programming around it. Sounds a lot less permanent that de-hard-wiring the INTV 1 control. Finally, if you want a good picture on real hardware, all games look clearer than ever using a Component CRT TV like a Sony Wega 4x3 SD CRT and to record a DVD-recorder with component outputs and an analog, (or analog/digital) tuner. The DVD introduces a little processing delay, so Y the RF cable using a Powered Splitter, either RF F-Type or RF RCA, and view the TV straight and record the DVD straight. or else you get a snowy picture. Look up youtube name jackofallgamestv and look up my 7800 Crossbow to see the old way, (before powering the splitter, but the light gun did work) and twice the new way, both composite and component capture as a comparison. But the Intellivoice has the ability to add Wireless controllers, but the standard was never made. And they interrupt the 2 in-bay controllers, so there might be a way to work that way too.
  13. Coleco is not exactly the most comfortable controller either, especially for game where you have to manually rapid fire. The ambidextrous design sacrificed in firing rate by placing buttons at weird right angles. FIrst the Sanwa is just the stick and buttons, but is designed so each individual actuation can be wired to an individual joypad. The wires from the stick go to RCA females, then RCA Male-TO-RCA Males connect it to a standardizer which can let you arrange joystick directions and buttons in any order, so you can wire it one way for the nowadays normal left-handed way, or turn it 180 degrees swap the RCAM->RCAM to reverse the stick and rearrange the buttons, so it can play in an old school right-handed arrangement. Also the buttons can correspond to either consistent with Index, Middle, Ring, etc. like a fighting game, or consistent with left center and right, making it for games with fire left and fire right is more important. It can even work with 2600 Track N Field, where 2 buttons equal left and right, and Pac-Land on Xbox 360 with run buttons. Form the standardizer island, it dgoes into a PCB of an original stick, with the standardized wires actuating the points. This is so I can make this for any system, Past, Present, or Future. All I have to provide is an original PCB of the stick. I would like to use the original 16 way pad for games that use it well, but for Burgertime, the 4 way (or 8 if you're allowed to round the corner, meaning it's not like the arcade emulated version of Mr. Do's Castle) would be perfect. As for fighting sticks, (according to my personal preferences) they are best in games where you need to actuate a cardinal or diagonal specifically like inputting a Dragon Punch, they tend to make good action sticks. By the way, it has a 4/8 way switchable game. A longer stick gives more mechanical advantage which less you lose less force over a longer distance, and longer distances make it more precise to choose between a cardinal and a diagonal. As for left vs right hand, both hands can press buttons equally well, like when typing on a keyboard, but moving your shoulder and wrist more quickly requires a stronger arm, therefore should be your dominant arm, which for most people the right hand. I believe Nintendo make their joysticks left handed to make the arcade operators more money by making it uncomfortable therefore they could jack their prices up, because the appeal of Donkey Kong is the uniqueness of a platformer at the time, not so much the control perfection. I've seen many people cross arms back in the day, LOOOOONG before Street Fighter, but less so in other right-handed games. Some games were even generous enough to put buttons on BOTH SIDES. Like Intellivision, 5200, Colecovision, Astrocade, and Arcadia 2001. Here's a picture showing my setup on my attachments. Notice flipping it 180 degrees makes a good left-handed stick.
  14. The main reason I want to do this is because, I never really grew up with an Intellivision. My 8 year old self handled the controllers and thought they stunk. I had a ColecoVision back then. I'd like to replace it with an 8-way arcade stick. I understand it won't work for games where all 16 directions are important. I'm just seeing if the way to play Intellivioisn games would be easier by modding an INTV 2 to play Coleco Games, or by modding an INTV 1 to add a DB9 (for 8-way games) or USB joystick (for 16-way games). The reason why I say this is becuase I'd like by ambidextrous Sanwa-parts Fighting Joystick to work on it.
  15. The 2 mods discussed in this Intellivision post: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/249707-which-of-these-two-mods-would-be-easier/ Wondering if it's possible and what would be the cost.
  16. Which of these 2 mods would be easier? Both are a cartridge kind of like the Intellivoice which is temporary, and can be inserted and removed at will. 1 adjustment is for the INTV 1/3 where Arcade style 8-way joysticks, or analog USB controllers could be plugged where it divides a circle into 16 sections and you just have to achieve half a radius to actuate the direction. The other adjustment is for the INTV 2 where Coleco games and Word Fun and any other troubling third party game could be played by sticking this in between. I would prefer a non-permanent solution, in the sense that I don't have to a) open up the console, or b) hire someone to do that, and in either case c) decrease the historical collectability of it. I think both technologies are possible. The first one sounds harder, but I read they were intending to make the intellivoice a 4 player module too. The second one could be done if it has it own boot screen data added in between the cartridge and the machine or can temporarily activate the short without the risk. (Sort of like component CRT TV, and a DVD recorder is a non-permenant solution to taping games and a quality display. You just Y it, and send one end to the CRT TV and the other to the DVD recorder and record it. Also a Sony Wega CRT TV is good for getting clear pictures on RF. You're not using it for analog TV anymore. If you want to compare proof, here are two somethings I taped for the Bally Alley High Score Club Component Capture via DVD-recorder: Composite Capture via VCR: See if the quality of TV and recorder improves the visuals.)
  17. Joystick, but only if it's an Arcade style stick and buttons that was right-handed. I prefer it in most old games, and I can't seem to get the knack of subtle analog controls for shooters. Even when I try to make subtle changes in aim, I overshoot my mark. I prefer the "hold until there" approach of digital aiming. I was more accurate in shooters before the analog sticks. As for fighters, I beat a fairly famous gamer in Street Fighter thoroughly and consistently before he won the local Blockbuster Genesis tournament in 1993(4?) He later went on to be Cable TV's best all around gamer. In all fairness to him, he was using a pad when I beat him on my right handed joystick, before Joysticks were the rage, in the Genesis days, and I let my friends try and everyone using my ambidextrous stick said they liked it better than a pad for Street Fighter, even beating him, and we all thought the right handed setup was better for precisely, quickly and without any giveaways, entering dragon punches. Maybe that's a testament to the vitality of the right tools rather than my skills per se. I understand modern games might not work well with Joysticks, but you could make analog sticks with a thumb cross pad and 4 finger buttons on both a left and right stick, so you can access all buttons without reaching for the button portion of the pad. I call it the Table Pad. Thankfully there's no dictator decreeing all controllers are either sticks or pads. Though it seems there's a dictator decreeing all controllers are left handed. The last major off-the-shelf stick that was ambidextrous and authorized by the system maker was the Beeshu Turbo Grafx 16 joystick controller, and before that the last first party controller that was right handed was the Master System joystick, though their pads were left handed, which had a problem keeping the left and right absolute, meaning the button you rapid fire in games where left and right aren't important is the middle finger button, not the index finger button, which is weird. In most games for the Master System the 2 and 1 should be swapped, but games like Tutankham where the concept of left and right fire are important, they should not be swapped, therefore there should be swappable buttons, like on the Xbox One, even if the game doesn't allow it. or make a 3 button "1-2-1" arrangement where button a is on both the left and right side of button B I've got a design for a joystick I feel comfortable with. And I'm planning to use it with as many systems I own by having working joystick PCBs connected to the stick, and yes it's ambidextrous, with button and direction swappability. It can even play Track N Field / Activision Decathlon by making 2 buttons right and left and a third jump/throw, or Pac-Land by making left and right run buttons, and joystick up for jump. I can keep buttons relative to finger, like street fighter and most games, or absolute like in Tutankham and Pac-Land.
  18. Indy 500 was the only commercial game to use the driving controller, and it worked like a one-dimensional trackball with less roll than a Coleco Roller Pad on a Super Action Stick, also an Etch-a-Sketch-type simulator used it too. I don't know of any others, but with many retrobrewers, the list is far from complete. Controllers are more desirable, because its parts are sometimes used for Jaguar Tempest 2000 Mods.
  19. If you're looking for popularity with this device, a better one would be getting the 1-handed Nunchuck to plug into not a 2600, but a 5200. Imagine, analog controls, ambidextrous one-handed 2-button stick that frees the other hand for a keypad. 5200 controllers are notorious for breaking down. This would be a good ambidextrous hack.
  20. If I have the final say (depends on what my researchers say), I'd make sure I'd use original Astrocade parts. Since it's cheaper to produce 70's quality processors today than during the 70's, I'd use original parts, but designed to be more durable. I don't know if that is possible, I just came up with the way to turn classic games into classic online games.
  21. Blazing Lazers, it's basically a Flashback type system that can play original cartridges, including the BASIC cartridge, as well as authorized downloads, and has the added feature of playing head-to-head online. My technique works with original ROMs so it doesn't require additional game code to make work online.
  22. does anyone know who owns the rights to the Bally Astrocade system? if so I need to talk to them about turning the system into multiplayer online without programming new game code. I have talked to Intellivision, and Colecovision, and the modern owners will support me if i can have research done, which is currently going. also, can't find Atari's modern owners.
  23. oh by the mine had a problem of the rf cord pulling DOWN on it causing flakey picture. in your case go with gravity and let the cable hang down.
  24. not to bump this topic, but if you have this problem, here's a 5 dollar solution to try before replacing rf modulators. 1)check to see if wiggling the rf to switchbox cables give and occasionally clear picture when the cable is forced upwards. if it is... 2) Do not use the switchbox or cable that came with the intv. 3) buy a perpendicular ( right angle, 90 degree) audio or video cable. all you need is one. 4) buy and rca female to antenna connector male, 5) go to a thrift store and pick up a cheap vcr. it does not need to be stereo, nor does the tape mechanism have to work. all you need working is the tuner circuitry. 5) insert perpendicular end with the sticking out edge facing upward relative to gravity being downward. 6) insert other end, perpendicular or otherwise in the antenna adapter and plug the antenna end into TV IN port. 7) run RCA composite cables to tv with composite inpurs or something with composite-> HDMI converter. tune vcr to channel 2,3, or 4, whatever channel your classic game system outputs at. 9) tune tv to composite input. 10) enjoy your game. to record for high score websites, get hard drive recorder or dvdr, but as early as possible, after the vcr, branch off with rca y adapters, with one end going straight to tv (for minimal ping), and the other to the recorder. the middle steps of using the perpendicular rca cable eases the pressure on the rf cable, and because rca cables are the same whether they carry composite (a/v) or integrated (one wire whole tv) signals, you can use them interchangably as long as you buy the converter to get it into an antenna port, which only understands integrated tv, and since no one is broadcasting on analog tv, this is the PERFECT use of a vcr antenna in. the tape mechanism doesn't have to work unless your playing tapes, or recording them, in which case, use a dvdr or hard drive recorder for easier digital transfer.
  25. Is a CH 3DO Flight Stick fixable with someone with no soldering knowledge and can be done with just a screwdriver, a q-tip and 91% isopropylhol. I never really had that question answered, I just found out that ch-hangar.com doesn't let you search the word "3DO" (it's too short of a term, you need 4 letters) and have no other idea how to find what I need. Basically, My Single/last player CH Flight stick can't find center, no matter how I adjust the vertical trim flywheel. And I'm wondering if there are any 2-or-more player CH Flight stick analog games. Wondering which games are good?
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